Passed by a soloing couple on a climb.... who was in the wrong?

Honestly I'd put this down to shit that happens. The norm would be for soloists to just pass, no drama. I doubt she planned on having a wobble on the crux, is it optimal to be stuck behind this? Nope but sometimes shit happens.

Soloists should be required to carry snickers bars in their chalkbags like Austin Howell used to do. Whenever he passed a party he'd hand them a bar and be on his way. 

Who the hell is out there soloing long boring slab routes anyway?

Nic Gravley wrote:

They weren’t in the wrong. Passing people when soloing is the norm. 

 Probably most people disagree but Peter Croft never asked us when he passed us on the Regular Route on Fairview. He merely remarked he was surprised to see someone out there that early...

Nic Gravley wrote:

They weren’t in the wrong. Passing people when soloing is the norm. 

Courtesy, timing, and good form is the norm for free soloing.  By this account from two different observers, the solo team had none of these 

Edit:  the more I think on this one, the more I’m with Bb cc above.   Maybe the whole free solo idea was the girl’s and she wanted some pics for the Insta, and the guy just went along with her wishes. Possible.  But reading between the lines from the parties above and below, there is a higher probability that this guy was a thoughtless clown at best and a sociopathic douche at worst.  Free Soloing is one thing.  Free Dualling is another.  You both have to have your heads right and be rock solid.   If there was even the remotest level of coaxing or pressure or “change of plans” encouragement etc for her to just “free solo” it, (it’s only 5.7) then this asshole deserves a beat down.  
maybe it was all on the up and up and they got a bit closer to the edge of the envelope than planned, but it sure sounds like this guy was a clueless dipshit either way. If I look down and see my girlfriend even remotely struggling and not smiling during a free solo several pitches up, I’m not snapping pics like some buttknocker, my heart is in my throat and I’m prayin to god and sending all the good ju-ju I can muster down route.

Change my mind 

Mark Pilate wrote:

Courtesy, timing, and good form is the norm for free soloing.  By this account from two different observers, the solo team had none of these 

Edit:  the more I think on this one, the more I’m with Bb cc above.   Maybe the whole free solo idea was the girl’s and she wanted some pics for the Insta, and the guy just went along with her wishes. Possible.  But reading between the lines from the parties above and below, there is a higher probability that this guy was a thoughtless clown at best and a sociopathic douche at worst.  Free Soloing is one thing.  Free Dualling is another.  You both have to have your heads right and be rock solid.   If there was even the remotest level of coaxing or pressure or “change of plans” encouragement etc for her to just “free solo” it, (it’s only 5.7) then this asshole deserves a beat down.  
maybe it was all on the up and up and they got a bit closer to the edge of the envelope than planned, but it sure sounds like this guy was a clueless dipshit either way. If I look down and see my girlfriend even remotely struggling and not smiling during a free solo several pitches up, I’m not snapping pics like some buttknocker, my heart is in my throat and I’m prayin to god and sending all the good ju-ju I can muster down route.

Change my mind 

Speculation is Speculation.

I like to think women have more agency than some of you give them credit for. She knew exactly what she was getting herself into and made her own choice to step off the ground and on to that climb without a rope. 

Nathan Doyle wrote:

Speculation is Speculation.

I like to think women have more agency than some of you give them credit for. She knew exactly what she was getting herself into and made her own choice to step off the ground and on to that climb without a rope. 

Of course it’s speculation.  Based on probabilities.  Could be totally off the mark here.  But This isn’t about “agency” or doubting “women”.   It’s a reality of social dynamics and I see it all too often with some…and not just men/women, but with same sex teams.  

While this one is water under the bridge, others should pause and think hard before getting into a similar circumstance with a loved one.

And the the last analysis holds regardless.  It sure appears from those that were  there first hand, that she at the very least was having second thoughts.  
to each his/her own, but if you’re going to climb where a mistake could end your life, you should absolutely float that 5.7 with smooth confidence.

lf I was her climbing partner —and I’m assuming this wasn’t their first climb together — It appears that she was at a skill/confidence level that I wouldn’t consider free soloing with even if she begged. Again, maybe she regularly floats 12d and this was just an “off” day. It happens. I’d love to hear directly from the solo team for their perspective.

Edit:  maybe someone who does it can explain better the dynamics and “whys” of Free Teaming vs Free Soloing.   (Please don’t include intermittent simul soloed pitches on a long alpine route.  Not what we’re talking about).   I’m interested in a couple who mutually decides to simultaneously free solo a whole rock route.   Limit to climbs 5.6 and above to weed out “free soloed” hikes and where death is more than probable (if shit happens)

Tradiban wrote:

I don’t think we really have enough information to determine if the soloists shouldn’t have been there based on their skill, we only have one side of the story, from a non-soloist.

Furthermore, surely they didn’t intend to “crux” above the follower, even if she was in fact “cruxing out”.

It’s likely they didn’t know that was the crux, even if they did sometimes soloists get a bit “hung up” on a move and prudently take the time to work it out.

Like I said, I don’t think the roped party was in danger and again, the soloists likely didn’t intend to be in a tight spot just then.

This was all nothing more than an awkward moment on the wall and an expression of discomfort from the roped party.

For sure I was in a spot of discomfort and both I and my partner were NOT in real danger. Both of us are attached to the wall, the soloist was not. I find myself agreeing with this. If someone needs time to work out a move, they should be allowed to have it. 

Soloists should always get to pass and there’s 0 exceptions to that rule because soloing is cool. Anyways, brb, I’m gonna go strap some speakers to my crag dog so it can roam around while I go bolt some splitters. 

"So....... Are you a soloist, too?"

If I soloed 5.5 one time am I a soloist? My grandma wants to know. Also, the girl I’m currently hitting on NEEDS to know!

If I solo when no one is around, am I a soloist?

Reading this thread makes me want to solo hard moves 

Remember the parable of the soloist who took the screamer off Nutcracker.  Soloists should SOLO.  Go early/late/off weekends/etc.  Splatter (or not) on your own, alone.  No Insta picks.

We all free solo whether we admit it or not. Joshua Tree walk offs come to mind. Most free soloists pass through with little drama, they usually ask if they can pass and I try to move out of the fall line. Usually they are climbing well below their grade and look solid. It's definitely better for everyone if they do their free soloing on single pitch routes so they can have the climb to themselves and not endanger others. 

Once at Big Rock we had a guy get the chicken leg on a 10A slab move 40 feet above the ledge where my wife and I had let him pass. We thought he was going to fall and kill all 3 of us. We grew up watching Peter Croft solo up and down 10's in Squamish and Leavenworth. And Bachar at Joshua Tree...that guy looked so solid on Left Ski Track. The Josh tradition continues with guys up and down soloing Bearded Cabbage...every morning. It becomes part of the landscape after a while. 

Up at Octopus Garden (Squamish) this summer this group of 4 was free soloing everything. They were super nice, always asked if they could pass while the route was empty. At the end of the day, there simply aren't very many of them, so it's not usually a problem.

Spencer Ralston wrote:

Over this past weekend I was on a 8 pitch climb in New Hampshire (Standard Route on Whitehorse Slabs). Above the Lunch Ledge pitch, pitch 6, I tied into the anchor and called down for my girlfriend to start climbing. After a few moves she stopped, a couple was passing her free solo. My girlfriend was off the anchor and about 1/3 up the pitch. The couple passed her one by one. The boyfriend of the group moved pass her and the crux move (5.7) and got to the ledge next to me. His girlfriend whoever, sat at the crux move for 4-5 minutes. Hesitate and second guessing the move, she was about 8-10 feet about my partner and right in line if she fell. Clearly not having a fun time. Luckily she pulled the move and they carried on. The party below us was pissed that they passed us mid-pitch. 

What is one to do? I am a new trad multi-pitch climber so I am still figuring out a lot of my own decisions and this caught me off guard. Were we in the wrong for not seeing them before we started out pitch? Should I have laid into the guy and told him off in the middle of his girlfriend trying to do a very hard move? Would love to here some thoughts.

No one is at fault for anything here. It's just another day at the crags of people living their best life.

Mark Webster wrote:

Something about this photo reminds me of dominos. 

Mark Webster wrote:

I never really understood the solo-conga line. I always see it at Intersection Rock. If I had to rate the position one would be in line, being in the back is the equivalent to being at the end of the human centipede in terms of shittiness, and having to stare at your buddy’s ass the whole time. Maybe I got trust issues.

Ally L wrote:

I never really understood the solo-conga line. I always see it at Intersection Rock. If I had to rate the position one would be in line, being in the back is the equivalent to being at the end of the human centipede in terms of shittiness, and having to stare at your buddy’s ass the whole time. Maybe I got trust issues.

LOL... hilarious and agreed. It doesn't make sense to me either. 

Yes those hooligans appear to be having too much fun. Redact them!