New and Experienced climbers over 50 #21

Lori - The route is Humorous, on the north face of Snickers. It's nice and shady all morning this time of the year. Just left of it is Funny Bone, 5.7+, that shares an anchor with Humorous, which I have managed to get really wired over the last few weeks since I lead it to put up a top rope on Humorous. Some time back I was able to actually climb it, but these days with extra years and extra pounds I haven't been able to pull it off. It's a very enjoyable climb and a great workout for me so I'll keep at it till I knock the bastard off. Let me know if you would like to join me some morning to give it a go.

Brandt Allenwrote:

Lori - The route is Humorous, on the north face of Snickers. It's nice and shady all morning this time of the year. Just left of it is Funny Bone, 5.7+, that shares an anchor with Humorous, which I have managed to get really wired over the last few weeks since I lead it to put up a top rope on Humorous. Some time back I was able to actually climb it, but these days with extra years and extra pounds I haven't been able to pull it off. It's a very enjoyable climb and a great workout for me so I'll keep at it till I knock the bastard off. Let me know if you would like to join me some morning to give it a go.

Brandt, is this Funny Bone?  There was nothing funny about that route as I recall, I kept bonking my head on that little roof.  I couldn't touch Humorous... that's for the big boys.  (you!)  I'd love to go out with you one morning and cheer you on.  

While looking for those pictures I saw the one below.  Does this tower of Bob's not call to you?  I've visited it many times.

Your first two photos are Sleepy Hollow. Look up Snickers in your guidebook. Funny Bone will be there. Don't recognize the third photo.

Lori Milaswrote:

Helen, after 8 hours in the ER my heart is fine. …….. 

I came into this with the supposition that decay was not inevitable part of aging, and that with the right diet, sleep and exercise you could be pretty much as strong and vigorous as you were in much younger years.  I am probably wrong about this... a thing rgold has warned about numerous times.  Yet, I've just been so curious about what the limits are.  It's not about wanting to climb grades, but about wanting to experience the most beautiful routes in the world (to me   ) that always have me thinking "Ok, what will it take to climb this?"   It sorrows me to maybe have to accept that the 10b route I worked so hard on last season might be my max.  But it ain't over til it's over game, I think, of staying strong enough to climb. …… 

So... .maybe a campsite in the Park will be next best.   

Hi …. Good to know you are not having heart attack. Call me foolish if you will- but I monitor my heart by judging how I feel while doing aerobic exercises. eg. Walking up hill I know how it should go.

Pt 2
….. news to you- decay is all part of getting old. It’s part of “the deal” of being alive and in the end not much you can really do except try your best. And yes climbing beautiful routes is what climbing is all about, so is accepting the limitations that your physical body can accomplish and being happy with the results. Yes I wish I could do “the Beaver” again but in reality it’s no dice- I don’t waste a second feeling bad about that. You need to enjoy climbing- even if only a scramble to the top of Stony to enjoy the view.
So good luck with with “the doctors”, you know they only “practice” medicine.

#3….. 

Camping in any CG in the park will, most likely, be a noisy affair. I suggest driving East past 29 stumps for about 20 miles, at the intersection of the road going to I10 (south) you need to go about 10 miles south then cut back west on dirt roads that end at the rocks. This is BLM land. You could hang there and only see another person once a month. That’s dark and quiet for you. Yes ants, scorpions and snakes are out there- haven’t bothered me in 59 years of camping out. You could get a tent for protection.
Hope you figure out what’s up.

Nick- Bull riding is brutal. On one of my adventures with Kris we hired a pack mule and packer. This dude made his money as a PBA rider, saved it and owned a ranch outside of Kings Canyon NP. At the drop off spot below the 1,500 foot (unclimbed) face of Mt Harrington he said “you guys are crazy” …. We told him- “sitting down on a pissed off Bull was insane” 

But we all agreed that “hanging onto the steering wheel of a 69 427 Camaro that’s WIDE OPEN and feeling the throbbing V8” is probably one of the best things in life.
A brother from another mother.

Later 

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=O4rgMyThtWI

Ward Smithwrote:

Todd, I put two glue in bolts over the top of every first ascent highball that I do.  I rig them for two shoulder length slings so that they are not visible from the ground.   You don’t have to use them, but if you fuck up and crater it is not my fault.  

Ward - no disrespect but my hardcore bouldering friends- I don’t even try to keep up, I just enjoy their company and the hard ball attitude they hold close to heart - they say “it’s not bouldering if you use a TR at all” So is “it” (ethics) a regional thing? Putting in bolts or cheat runners would be a “problem” for California folks.

This is bouldering at the highest level- IMHO.

Discuss please 

edit: my lame brain forgot how to get the darn video to load. If anyone can fix please do- thx

Over post limit.
Not my Crew - just folks I know. Again asking for discussion. In the PNW people scrub entire boulders of moss, making them look naked, that’s OK for them. Up in Santa Barbara, at “the brickyard” they have long runners on top of the tall problems- so I’m just wondering if Ward gets pushback from others.
Heck I have even stood on a long ladder myself- popping off big loose holds- before I would commit to hanging from them. I think most just toss ethics as needed for self survival.
Dean Potter was a most impressive climber.

Randy agree 100%…..
Thx Phylp 

I'm not a boulderer, but it seems clear, as with many aspects of climbing--'different strokes, for different folks'. Some folks are less willing to put their lives and limbs at total risk than others--it is all a 'game' after all.

By the way, how many pads, how many spotters do your "hardcore bouldering friends" believe are 'acceptable? Does this vary depending on the nature of the landing zone--a lot of steep slopes, boulders, trees here in New England? Is, say, a pile of 12 pads and a similarly numbered posse of spotters OK--what number is the cut-off? All a bit arbitrary isn't it?

Alan Rubinwrote:

I'm not a boulderer, but it seems clear, as with many aspects of climbing--'different strokes, for different folks'. Some folks are less willing to put their lives and limbs at total risk than others--it is all a 'game' after all.

By the way, how many pads, how many spotters do your "hardcore bouldering friends" believe are 'acceptable? Does this vary depending on the nature of the landing zone--a lot of steep slopes, boulders, trees here in New England? Is, say, a pile of 12 pads and a similarly numbered posse of spotters OK--what number is the cut-off? All a bit arbitrary isn't it?

Yes it is Alan. Don’t mean to ruffle feathers.
FYI the locals say “no stacked pads- at all.”
Personally I find getting badly injured/killed is not good for your health.
Stoney has a climb (problem) named “Sudden Impact” it’s about a 15 foot fall from the crux, at the top, and the landing is on a steep slope. Years ago I dug out the landing so you had a flat spot to land on. You would have thought I chiseled extra big holds judging by the reaction I received! So I filled it in to soothe hurt feelings.
People went ape shit when the leg breaking little boulder at the base of “White Rastafarian” was rolled over to the side.
Just trying to understand the local ethics, practices surrounding Bouldering. 

Again, I'm not a boulderer, so can't say for sure, but don't believe there is a 'uniform' set of ethics in this region (except, I presume/hope, the obvious ones of no chiselling holds!!!) but varying ones from area to area, maybe group to group. I'll bet the same goes even in different parts of CA. It looks like Todd, up north, doesn't play totally by the same 'rules' as your crew.

Guy Keeseewrote:

This is bouldering at the highest level- IMHO.

Discuss please

Caring about other people’s levels or styles is a waste of energy. It’s a game where everybody gets to set their own rules.
that’s my contribution!

Guy- xoxo to you, Phyl

Guy Keeseewrote:

...
People went ape shit when the leg breaking little boulder at the base of “White Rastafarian” was rolled over to the side....

Smoothing out a landing at Stony Point and moving that boulder below White Rastafarian are not comparable.

Modifying the landscape in a National Park (where boulderers already are causing huge impacts: e.g.: crushing native plant-life with massive numbers of pads and overly large groups) is far different and has major consequences for everyone. Meaning no disrespect, and Stoney may be a very fun place with a lot of history and classic problems, but a national park or pristine it ain't.

Also, the boulder below WR is not a factor until well after the crux, and not where anyone is likely to fall (or ever has?). A good spot and a pad would be available if you need it. Even I have done WR and no one would mistake me for a high ball boulderer.

Thank you, Guy.  I don't know why I feel the need to share updates unrelated to climbing... but suddenly I feel that this one is directly related to climbing.  I decided to go to Urgent Care today instead of back down the hill to the hospital ER.  I had in hand two separate sets of labs that I ordered in April and July which identified a parasite at 'moderate' level at that time.  I spoke with the lab doctor this morning and he said "Why hasn't a doctor dealt with this?  You need a prescription for this!" 

The doctor at the Urgent Care is a little Chinese doctor with a very thick accent.  But when I handed him both my lab reports he got very animated.  "You have parasites!  You've had these for months? Why did no one treat this?  You are very sick!"  I know this.  Tony couldn't understand a word he said, but I loved the man.  He was totally into those labs and how sick I have gotten.  

"Get yourself a case of Pedialyte... drink this all day long for electrolytes.  Get a probiotic and take it 4 times a day.  Take this medication 3 times a day for 2 weeks, then come back and retest.  Do not eat anything cold, and do not take anything to stop pooping.  I want this to run through you. Keep drinking and pooping.  This bug proliferates astronomically... "  

I hope I can last.  For some reason this infection has me agitated and weak.  But, if I can get through it, I have made up my mind that I want to climb Trix... even if it's a paltry attempt, even if it's over my head, even if I have to be hoisted to the top.  I don't know why everyone bags on Trix.  Todd Gordon called it "irritating".  To me it looks inspiring.  Also... I believe it will topple over soon.  So, better get healthy again, to beat the next earthquake.  It's good to have a goal.    

Guy Keeseewrote:

 Call me foolish if you will- but I monitor my heart by judging how I feel while doing aerobic exercises. eg. Walking up hill I know how it should go.

….. news to you- decay is all part of getting old. It’s part of “the deal” of being alive and in the end not much you can really do except try your best. And yes climbing beautiful routes is what climbing is all about, so is accepting the limitations that your physical body can accomplish and being happy with the results. Yes I wish I could do “the Beaver” again but in reality it’s no dice- I don’t waste a second feeling bad about that. You need to enjoy climbing- even if only a scramble to the top of Stony to enjoy the view.
So good luck with with “the doctors”, you know they only “practice” medicine.

+2.
Decay really registers when warmup of the past become project-for-the-day in the present.

Guy Keeseewrote:

Heck I have even stood on a long ladder myself- popping off big loose holds- before I would commit to hanging from them. I think most just toss ethics as needed for self survival.

Ladders are still commonly used. And not just for cleaning off loose stuff.

It is all a slippery slope. At which point does one cry 'foul'?
Nelle waited until there was a big snow pack to do his highball FA. Is that better than doing it with stacked pads in the Fall?
And when does knocking and prying off loose stuff beccome 'hold enhancement'?

IMHO, it really comes down to the ascentionist looking himself/herself in the mirror and answering the question 'Did I honestly and honorably send the problem' honestly.

Todd Berlier wrote:

https://youtu.be/Q-Z1CfMB_cM

WOW! 

Todd Berlier wrote:

https://youtu.be/Q-Z1CfMB_cM

OK, I guess people have fallen from there -- and apparently uncontrollably as well (learning how to jump off seems a lost art). Pads not on the boulder either. Looks like the spotter got the worst of it. A good illustration of what not to do -- and two cameras to document it all.

Doesn't change the fact that you shouldn't be moving large boulders around at Josh.

BTW, TFPU, entertaining.

Pansy Wankers! LOL

East vs West flares up again. I've always hated the dick measuring contests, how about we try and leave the tape measures at home? Is that even possible with climbers?

Wasn’t Too Big to Flail FA’d with TR/Microtrax rehearsal? And repeated in the same style? Iconic CA highball in an iconic CA bouldering area by iconic CA climbers (Hannold/L. Kauk)?  In fact, has anyone sent it without roped rehearsal? Would this mean that it is still waiting for a proper FA?

Speaking of highball bouldering, I was tempted to try a barefoot attempt on a steep stemming corner I spyed at the Abbaye Saint-Victor in Marseille last week.  At that point, it was almost 2 weeks since I’d done any climbing, and I was starting to get that jonesing feeling.  Withdrawal symptoms.  Didn’t do it because it would have been sacriligious and disrespectful, but the urge was there. back in the States now…

Been on vacation in the mountains for a week and damn, but it looks like I missed all the sex talk!  

For having 2 arthritic knees I sure hiked a lot including one hike over 9 miles at 10,000 feet of elevation.  I also kayaked a bunch and did a tiny bit of fishing.  Lost a couple pounds too!  Sucked that there was too much smoke in them there mountains for my asthmatic lungs to cope with but that seems to be the norm these days.

Lori, Kurt (The Kid) was also known as General Shorty.  He was almost as short as me but could do problems that nobody his size had any right to do.  The man could climb!  And he is a really nice guy.

‘But we all agreed that “hanging onto the steering wheel of a 69 427 Camaro that’s WIDE OPEN and feeling the throbbing…’

Just a sec  is this in relation to Helen’s conversation about sex?