Name that route by description PNW edition
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The route of many shenanigans. You may hear the shouting on your approach as belayer and climber figure out how to get the second back on route after they fell at the pitch two crux. Hopefully just rock climbing purgatory for a bit rather than Davy Jones’ Locker. Edit: It’s not necessarily distance that makes communication difficult, this area has human caused, ambient noise. Kevin: good guess, but wrong state Joe: not that one, but you are closest and I don’t mean with your answer ;) the route I’m describing is one pitch longer but overall shorter than the Canary. Nate: Arghh matey! Though the crag is Peter Pan themed not necessarily pirates. |
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Monkey Space? |
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Canary? |
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Excalibur? |
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The Holy Greyell? |
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Tyler got it. |
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Great clue Nate. Loved the “Zippy” addition. Let’s keep it in the same vein! Climbed in 1969, this route was the first ascent of this peak, accessed from an infrequently traveled valley on the northeast side. Now accessed most often from it’s west slabs, this feature was described by the original dirtbag as Washington’s most difficult 4000ft summit to obtain. |
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Yeah Tyler, a lot of fun history tidbits in the area. I'll let someone else take yours :) |
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Tyler Stockdale wrote: Had to consult my original dirbag's guide, since I didn't know he did an FA on it, kinda feels like cheating. But as in all climbing, there's no cheaters only liars. Exfoliation dome, north buttress. |
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Joe Petroske wrote: Yes! AKA the Witch Doctor Route. |
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On one fateful speed ascent of this route, a man climbed and descended with an impressive time, only to be slowed down by a train wreck and falling off a horse. |
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Would that be the Coleman Glacier route on Mt Baker? |
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Yessir! I'd love to do a baker-marathon-esque race someday but not even sure what it would look like in this day and age. For those that haven't heard of the absurdity: ultrarunninghistory.com/mou… |
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Now that I'm up, half the battle of this remote multipitch with stellar rock is just getting there with a heinous bushwhack involving an illegal border crossing that may turn parties around before even setting eyes on the rock. To speed up the exit parties often wade through spawning salmon in the river. You may even find your car a burned out husk at the end! Edited to add a little more detail (Not Dreamer) |
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Dreamer? |
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North Buttress of Bear? I remember a few others involving burnt cars but here's the story for those who haven't seen it. |
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Nate got it. I'm just betraying the fact that I've spent way too much time on Cascade Climbers and that story is definitely one of my favorites. |
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This classic recently lost its fingernail. As fate would have it, it still goes! |
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Finger of fate. |