Type: Sport, 200 ft (61 m), 3 pitches
FA: Garth Bruce, Drew Fletcher & Dave Perkins (2005)
Page Views: 11,021 total · 60/month
Shared By: ScottH on Aug 29, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

You & This Route


125 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
-none-

Description

This 3 pitch route ascends the far right side of Lost Boys.

P1. Begin right of a dead tree stump. Ascend shallow broken corners to a belay under a roof. Discontinous, odd, so-so climbing, 20m. 5.9

P2. Traverse left from the belay, pull into a corner and get established on the slab above the lip (crux), then continue up easier ground to the anchor. Nice pitch. Solid 5.10a, 20m.

P3. Follow a few bolts up the easy face to the highest anchor. Somewhat runout. 5.7, 20m.

It is possible to combine P1&P2. Make judicious use of long runners near the P1 belay and also for bolts 3&4 on P1 to keep rope drag reasonable.

It is difficult to communicate with your second from the top of P2, and if the second falls low in the crux it can be quite challenging to get back on the route.

Location

The rightmost line at Lost Boys, beginning in a corner.

Protection

P1 6 bolts, P2 9 bolts, P3 7 bolts. (Includes ancient bolts with giant hangers). All 3 anchors have chains. 

There isn't an excellent rappel option for this route.  Rappelling from P2 to P1 anchor is impossible due to traversing. If you're sure no one is on I Wanna Go Home, rappel climber's left from the P3 anchor to the P2 anchor on that climb, and make another 35m rap to the ground. If not, rappel to the P2 Plank anchor and then rappel straight down Seize the Day, off the edge.

You can reach the ground in a full 60m (double rope) rappel from the top anchors.

Photos