Defunct Climbing Terminology

L Kapwrote:

Same with "take" and "slack", which is why it would be great for "tension" to catch on. 

"Tension" was SOP sixty years ago.

Gumby Kingwrote:

Epic.  Some may people seem to have an "epic" even though they were a few hours late for dinner.

Um... being a few hours late for almost any meal, in M'erica is a horrific tragedy. What if one's Ravioli got cold???   

Alpine Knee. Still a term... but defunctly defuncted. Soon it will be used in protest. i.e. Honnold was going to solo Devil's Tower in June but decided to take an Alpine Knee in solidarity.

"Allez!" as a form of the verb "aller" (to go) is the command "Go!" or something like it. But that is the formal form of the command, which would not typically be used to address climbing friends (I think "Vas!" would be the familiar form--compare "Comment allez-vous?" and "Comment vas-tu?"). However, "Allez!" is also idiomatic, and means something along the lines of "You got this!" or "That's it!"--i.e., it is a simply an encouragement. The fact that it's the formal, and not the familiar form, is a good indication that it is the idiomatic use that is intended.

Austin Donisanwrote:

"S" (for severe?) as a safety rating

If you read through descriptions and comments for routes that were submitted super long ago (2000-2005) you see it used quite a bit.

The 2nd dacs guide book used pro ratings:   E for excellent,  s for satisfactory ( we said  sucks)  and D  for difficult. (we said death , as in x)

Weak sauce and proud (as an adjective) thank goodness those are passe.

Austin Donisanwrote:

"S" (for severe?) as a safety rating

If you read through descriptions and comments for routes that were submitted super long ago (2000-2005) you see it used quite a bit.

Richard Rossiter used "s" and "vs" in his guidebooks. His 1985 Boulder guidebook defines "s" as "serious fall potential" and "vs" as "very serious, potentially fatal." These were later shortened to "serious" and "very serious," respectively.

Gloweringwrote:

..... proud ....

yeah, who would ever say that....I sure wouldn't..... never....swear   

PRRosewrote:

"Allez!" as a form of the verb "aller" (to go) is the command "Go!" or something like it. But that is the formal form of the command, which would not typically be used to address climbing friends (I think "Vas!" would be the familiar form--compare "Comment allez-vous?" and "Comment vas-tu?"). However, "Allez!" is also idiomatic, and means something along the lines of "You got this!" or "That's it!"--i.e., it is a simply an encouragement. The fact that it's the formal, and not the familiar form, is a good indication that it is the idiomatic use that is intended.

Thanks, that makes sense. Out of curiosity, I asked google translate to translate “Allez!” and it gave “Come on” in English. 

Left Facing Corner / Right Facing Corner - used too inconsistently to be useful.

Serge Swrote:

Left Facing Corner / Right Facing Corner - used too inconsistently to be useful.

Open Book, Diedre

Hangdog.

Mark Hudonwrote:

In Ten Sleep this summer I’m hearing a lot of people saying “I’m gonna jug up a bit” to mean they are going to pull themselves up to their high point after a fall.
I’m sure none of them know that “jugging”, or “to jug” is slang for “Jumaring” up a rope (the act of ascending a rope using Jumars). Jumars were the first ascenders. 

We started calling this "yarding up" 40 yr ago in s az.

Serge Swrote:

Left Facing Corner / Right Facing Corner - used too inconsistently to be useful.

only by those who don't know what they are talking about (generally the same folks that call a corner crack a splitter...)

DWF 3wrote:

I hate to admit it but “day flash” is growing on me and I think it has some merit.  It’s usual context for me is sending a route after a long time away; a route that was once a project and took me many burns to dial in and send only to be sent first go with a blurry idea at best of what my beta was. Perhaps AKA a “hindsight”.  At any rate, it’s a good feeling and makes me feel like I’m a better climber than I used to be and I want it to have a name. 

Slam dunk... It's a "deja vu".

Mark Pilatewrote:

Exactly.  Only climbers are so weight conscious as to need to contract off 2 letters from the bloated “ascend”.     It came from sport climbers who need to keep to single syllables

And now other sports use it too.

jbak xwrote:

Slam dunk... It's a "deja vu".

that's pretty good, kind of a play on "a vue"

“All nuts” used to mean no pitons

“Hammock bivouac”

“Butt bag”

“Ballsy lead” (politically incorrect)

“Sixth class”

“Oval Biner”

“Brake bar”

“Sub aiders”

“Offsize hands”

“Thank Bridwell hold”

“Splitshank”

“Leeper hanger”

“Bong bong”

“Standard angle”

“Soft iron pin”

“Bowline on a coil”

“Dulfersitz”

“Body rappel”

“Double runner”

“Hero loop”

“Hardman”

Kevin Worrallwrote:

“Hardman”

more in the realm of “defunct climbing magazines”, but anyone remember (or know where to find) the old comic strip “Uh Oh, it’s Hard Man”??  That used to appear in Climbing back in the day
 

I can’t remember who did it or the history, but am considering getting the old Chouinard “diamond”   < c > tattooed on my forehead just in honor of Yvon and what he did with Patagonia.  

Course I’d need the bunny slippers and the biner ear piercing too  

slimwrote:

that's pretty good, kind of a play on "a vue"

Precisely.

Austin Donisanwrote:

I always knew it to mean "send first try of the day" for something you've been on before.

But recently people have starting using it to mean "send in a session," which doesn't make much sense to me.

Flash is onsight with detailed beta, first go.( not of the day, first go ever. )