Defunct Climbing Terminology

Daniel Joder wrote:

Haven’t read all the posts, but did see someone mention “stoner flash” for climbing a route you have done before but don’t remember. I know some used the term “Alzheimers onsight” for the same thing but when climbed by…uh… well… us more mature folks. Has the latter term become politically incorrect?

"Grey-point" - onsighting something you have climbed before because you forgot all the beta due to age / greying hair.

I presume these really are defunct  'nailing'=aid climbing.

Step chopping in ice climbing

Alpenstock

Shoulder Stands

Alan Rubin wrote:

I presume these really are defunct  'nailing'=aid climbing.

Step chopping in ice climbing

Alpenstock

Shoulder Stands

Heard "nailing" used plenty last season in the valley

Hank Hudley wrote:

Has anyone mentioned sandbagged? I recently overheard someone telling their partner "This route is so sandbagged, there's sand in every hold!" 

Were they being sarcastic??

Anchor used to describe any single piece of placed pro. 

There is a difference between "wrongly" used and "no longer" used.  This is about the latter.

Clean climbing

LNT climbing - or LNT in general

Andre Sarrazin wrote:

Were they being sarcastic??

Sadly, I don't think so.

Yoda Jedi Knight wrote:

Almost 10 pages in and have hardly seen any defunct terms here

all just grumpy old people yelling at kids for their newfangled slang

Jason4Too wrote:

I first heard Allez when I started bouldering in a gym that was about 5 hours from Font.  The local gym climbers had adopted it from their pilgrimages to Font.  I've used it very rarely at home but hear it occasionally and it reminds me of my early days pulling plastic and grunting.

There are two camps.
Camp Venga. Camp Allez.

It was funny to me to be in Malaysia and soon after in Singapore and hear folks yelling "Allez!!! Allez!!".... or lesser "venga!" its perplexing to hear people yell "come on" in non native languages... those two words seemingly have entered the climbing lexicon without too much bearing on where the support sprayer is from.
Although when I hear it in the states its usually said in a cheeky manner....

This post brought you by:
thoughts that are neither here, nor there.

Retable

oldfattradguuy kk wrote:

Retable

Was that actually ever used? It was in the instruction books, but I never recall actually hearing anyone saying, “you have to retable” instead of “mantle “. 

"S" (for severe?) as a safety rating

If you read through descriptions and comments for routes that were submitted super long ago (2000-2005) you see it used quite a bit.

Alan Rubin wrote:

Was that actually ever used? It was in the instruction books, but I never recall actually hearing anyone saying, “you have to retable” instead of “mantle “. 

Ha! We started using it after an old vulgarian showed us an MIT climbing manual 

Austin Donisan wrote:

"S" (for severe?) as a safety rating

If you read through descriptions and comments for routes that were submitted super long ago (2000-2005) you see it used quite a bit.

I think that for US usage as a safety rating, a "s" for a route means "serious". "vs" is very serious. If I recall the history correctly, it's an old Eldo system. Fallen out of use since the area has generally switched over to the now more widely used "r" and "x". So, "s" in this US usage is defunct.

Whereas in the UK, "s" is part of their strange difficulty/safety overall rating, and means "severe". This usage is still active.

Alan Rubin wrote:

Was that actually ever used? It was in the instruction books, but I never recall actually hearing anyone saying, “you have to retable” instead of “mantle “. 

Double rentable at knight’s wall at the Quincy quarries 

Eric Engberg wrote:

The argument for "safe" is that it has a more unique sound the "off belay" - less likely to be misinterpreted.  It, or the equivalents, are much more commonly used in Europe.

The argument against safe is that it sounds like take which is an often used command. If a climber says take and it is heard as safe, there's probably going to be a problem.

“Trad-ing” kills me

simplyput . wrote:

The argument against safe is that it sounds like take which is an often used command. If a climber says take and it is heard as safe, there's probably going to be a problem.

Same with "take" and "slack", which is why it would be great for "tension" to catch on. 

Epic.  Some may people seem to have an "epic" even though they were a few hours late for dinner.

Sauced.

Back in Central PA in the early 2000s it meant having the sequence dialed. 

I have that climb completely SAUCED I will send it when I'm fresh.