Defunct Climbing Terminology

DWF 3wrote:

I hate to admit it but “day flash” is growing on me and I think it has some merit.  It’s usual context for me is sending a route after a long time away; a route that was once a project and took me many burns to dial in and send only to be sent first go with a blurry idea at best of what my beta was. Perhaps AKA a “hindsight”.  At any rate, it’s a good feeling and makes me feel like I’m a better climber than I used to be and I want it to have a name. 

I think that is called a 'back in the day flash' BITDF.

Wesley Kwrote:

The term "questing" as in climbing up new territory was a flash in the pan. Came and went faster than YOLO or Fire in text message language. 

We still use questing at work. I've used it like once in a climbing context.

Zach Baerwrote:

We still use questing at work. I've used it like once in a climbing context.

Do you by chance work with ticks?

'lets climb some nooners brah' 

Now everyone warms up on 5.12

Mark Hudonwrote:

In Ten Sleep this summer I’m hearing a lot of people saying “I’m gonna jug up a bit” to mean they are going to pull themselves up to their high point after a fall.
I’m sure none of them know that “jugging”, or “to jug” is slang for “Jumaring” up a rope (the act of ascending a rope using Jumars). Jumars were the first ascenders. 

...and were slang shortened to "jugs", hence the term.

Marc801 Cwrote:

...and were slang shortened to "jugs", hence the term.

I wasn't around for those days, but in my head I figured the origin of the term jug would be more related to a flask with a handle. Lifting a jug and jumaring up a rope does have fairly similar movement. But then again, I was not around for the introduction of the term, so I'm open to jug being shortened from jumar completely unrelated to handled flasks!

I cringe when I hear non-climbers say "free climbing" when they are referring to free soloing.  I shit my pants with rage when climbers do the same thing.  I have to consciously fight the urge to say "you know, you just got finished free climbing" and watch their eyes glaze over with befuddlement.

I cringe when I hear non-climbers say "free climbing" when they are referring to free soloing.  I shit my pants with rage when climbers do the same thing.

Look at it this way - those kids are just algorithms generating heat maps in a gym management solution. "Free" climbing isn't something they can wrap their dues-paying minds around.

DWF 3wrote:

I hate to admit it but “day flash” is growing on me and I think it has some merit.  It’s usual context for me is sending a route after a long time away; a route that was once a project and took me many burns to dial in and send only to be sent first go with a blurry idea at best of what my beta was. Perhaps AKA a “hindsight”.  At any rate, it’s a good feeling and makes me feel like I’m a better climber than I used to be and I want it to have a name. 

like the bastille crack?  bwaahhhaahhaaa! just busting your chunks.

DWF 3wrote:

I hate to admit it but “day flash” is growing on me and I think it has some merit.  It’s usual context for me is sending a route after a long time away; a route that was once a project and took me many burns to dial in and send only to be sent first go with a blurry idea at best of what my beta was. Perhaps AKA a “hindsight”.  At any rate, it’s a good feeling and makes me feel like I’m a better climber than I used to be and I want it to have a name. 

I call it a stoner flash. Climbed it before but don’t remember anything.

"All points off (dyno)"...has been replaced by simple competition climbing.

"send" is definitely dead.  a lot of not-even-making-it-to-the-anchors-and-calling-it-sending...

When did the term “buddy check”  start?  I can’t recall ever using that term. I mean, you might check your partner but you never had a term for it.

And I wonder if “doubled back” has completely fallen out of use since so many harnesses now are sewn such that you cannot undo the buckle. 

Mark Hudonwrote:

In Ten Sleep this summer I’m hearing a lot of people saying “I’m gonna jug up a bit” to mean they are going to pull themselves up to their high point after a fall.
I’m sure none of them know that “jugging”, or “to jug” is slang for “Jumaring” up a rope (the act of ascending a rope using Jumars). Jumars were the first ascenders. 

I feel like it is a close enough proxy. Functionally if you grab the rope to pull yourself up, you could be using an ascender to do it as well (though who brings an ascender to 10 feet of pulling up), the only real difference is a belayer. 

I also think it is a clear term, the alternatives would be, "I am pulling rope" (does that mean slack or tension), back up (would be unclear), aid me (though it would sound like belay me) do you have a better term for pulling someone back up to where they fell?

Princess Puppy Lovrwrote:

I feel like it is a close enough proxy. Functionally if you grab the rope to pull yourself up, you could be using an ascender to do it as well (though who brings an ascender to 10 feet of pulling up), the only real difference is a belayer. 

I also think it is a clear term, the alternatives would be, "I am pulling rope" (does that mean slack or tension), back up (would be unclear), aid me (though it would sound like belay me) do you have a better term for pulling someone back up to where they fell?

I’ve heard “yard” up the rope often 

Cherokee Nuneswrote:

Look at it this way - those kids are just algorithms generating heat maps in a gym management solution. "Free" climbing isn't something they can wrap their dues-paying minds around.

Good advice.  I think I actually tried that and instead just ended up hating holes in the backs of their heads while they belayed poorly instead. :-)

P W wrote:

Boinking...

That's a more specific case, where you're hanging in space and can't reach the other side of the rope to yard up on.

I don’t know if these have been mentioned yet…

the “dynamo” for dyno

“wheels” for cams

“chocks” for nuts

“bandolier” for gear sling

“hang” for roof

“Wobs” for a specialty chock that no longer exists

“tuber” for ATC type belay device

“yo-yo” for a technique of lowering back to the ground after a fall or hang and climbing again from the ground.

“figure 8” not for a knot, but for an old school belay/rappel device

“stitch plate” same as above

“swami” for an old school legless harness

“hero loop” for a tie off, usually slip knotted on a piton

“bong” for an old school thick piton

“clean and jerk” for a funkness device, although, “funkness device” is also dated

“rock and roller” an old school Loweball type sliding nut (RnR were the shit though!)

saign charlesteinwrote:

I call it a stoner flash. Climbed it before but don’t remember anything.

That’s Vuja de! Or just another gray point 

P W wrote:

Well, if I can reach the rope, then I 'yard hard' to pull myself back to where I 'dropped', with some assistance. If the belayer is 'pulling back to where I fell off' the term is 'boinking'.

Full description of the art of boinking, back from when Climbing occasionally published good content:

https://www.climbing.com/skills/better-boinking/