New and Experienced climbers over 50 #20

Jan Mcwrote:

By the way Lori, take a look at Jeremy's posture on the rock and the look at yours.  Your posture makes you work much harder than you need to.  This is a large part of the key to climbing harder thin face, not pulling harder but standing correctly.

Jan thank you. I’m asking about this all the time when I’m climbing. Jeremy was standing on a thin edge. I was smearing on no footholds. Even today on similar slab I was experimenting with hips to the wall ( where I continually slid off) and hips farther out, where I stuck. Work in progress… I’m aware but cannot always execute.

Not exactly looking smooth nor svelte, but hey, it was fun anyway. Unnamed VB, and yes, I'll add it to the database so I can tick the thing, lol! And the spectators were entertained, so there's that!

Lori, I was actually on a new route, with Jay and other over 50s present, when one of them suggested I'd be better off if I lowered my heels.

I shouted back, "that's as lower as they go! None of the bendy bits bends so great anymore!!"

I hope you're dancer body can be coaxed along! And it's great to impress anyone at all, but especially sweet if it's the docs!

Best, Helen

Old lady Hwrote:

Not exactly looking smooth nor svelte, but hey, it was fun anyway. Unnamed VB, and yes, I'll add it to the database so I can tick the thing, lol! And the spectators were entertained, so there's that!

Lori, I was actually on a new route, with Jay and other over 50s present, when one of them suggested I'd be better off if I lowered my heels.

I shouted back, "that's as lower as they go! None of the bendy bits bends so great anymore!!"

I hope you're dancer body can be coaxed along! And it's great to impress anyone at all, but especially sweet if it's the docs!

Best, Helen

Well Helen I’m grateful we can come here for encouragement, support and occasionally to shed a few tears.  “Laughter through tears is my favorite emotion.” Great pictures—topping out!  

Helen - How is your quest for new routes going?

Brandt Allenwrote:

Helen - How is your quest for new routes going?

Thanks for asking! Pretty slow, but I haven't been out much this winter. Reynolds Creek bouldering was a new area, and quite fun! We might get on a truly funky thing locally next week, so things are picking up!

First trip to COR is in May, with a whole bunch of young crushers! That should net some, until I meet you guys again in June! 

After that?

Dunno. I wanna do trips this summer.....but I also have a surgery. Eventually.

Best, Helen

Old lady Hwrote:

Lori, I have no idea why it made me think of it, but that NO sign you posted?

Reminded me that there were often a few horses in the back of the drive in theater, in the smallish town I grew up in. :-)

Got out bouldering today! Super nice day out, it finally feels like maybe we'll have a bit of spring before the hot dry summer they're predicting slams in.

Dunno if my friend will send a pic, but I did at least top out, twice, on V0s. I also enjoyed just messing around, on the lower part of some boulders, to see what might go, on what holds I found to play with. The younger friend, found that rather refreshing. Just....climbing. Not even trying to get anywhere. She kept saying, "oh! That looks fun!" I said, "yup! It may be only a move or two, but, at 65? I can most definitely enjoy even single moves!" She then commented on how focused they had been on accomplishing stuff, always always doing the sit start, etc. 

Sometimes?

Just lay on the bare back of the horse, on a hot hot summer night, with your friends, under the stars.

Best, Helen

Good on you for bouldering! There’s precious few of us old peeps who keep doing it.
I’m back home. Last three days were draining. Rainy, sick of being with my self.
Went climbing yesterday on three familiar routes which I felt strong on. Followed a new 21 and felt good.
Out again tomorrow after spending today riding my motorbike to my daughter’s in the Adelaide wine region (Lyndoch) for lunch.
It’s autumn now in an autumn the Adelaide hills are gold and red.  

Sounds awesome Carl. road trips are healing for the soul..    I turn 60 in a few weeks and still boulder a fair bit.   I just like my boulder problems easy and multi pitch ;)   Bouldering a few weeks ago

Leaving the nitpicking and dummying down aside…   

I feel a little foolish for bringing this up but I am intent upon learning. A group of us were watching climbing Videos last night and I was honed in on observing body position on steep face climbs. It’s a little hard not to be defensive on critiques however I want to consider every bit of advice that makes sense. Every little bit helps. 

We watched Jan’s video of the Bachar Yerian and I can see that their bodies were smack against the wall and there’s no other way to climb that. I actually dreamed of those moves last night, so it has gotten to me.

I’m going to focus my time for the rest of this climbing season on learning what I can of this technique – – I’d be really happy with improving by one letter grade. There are some beautiful 10c routes that I just cannot  climb and it’s frustrating to have such a hard ceiling. Why is that my limit?  Maybe it’s about digging into those edges more deeply so you don’t have to crimp so hard? Maybe it’s having a better connected core?  More flexible hips? 

The thing is, as I’ve said before, I am just intrigued with face climbing because it’s so magical. It cannot be done and yet we do it. I don’t have similar aspirations for a route like leave it to Beaver… I just wouldn’t work that hard for it. And the occasional overhung route is fun but I’ll never be great at it. I got in a really good hand jam to on a crack climb yesterday that was a bit overhung that was fun… But I went straight over to a 10 a/b very thin face where my heart really is . I’m going to get this worked out… And thank you so much for any suggestions on these routes.

Lori, I don't know if this has been mentioned on this thread before, but have you tried 'no hands' climbing--either on boulders or on a top rope? It doesn't have to even be on a 'recognized' boulder problem or climb--just something steep enough to require you to 'work at it'--and then, once you've got that down, on something a bit steeper, etc.It is a great way to get you used to body positioning and balance for, at least, lower angle face climbing. As it gets steeper you can use the hands for balance but not pulling or go one-handed. This won't work for climbs of the angle of the B-Y, but still will help you get there.

Though others may disagree, once you get to the upper grades (but that can include some 10s) on edging/crystal climbing, I really think the 'right' shoes can make a big difference (or maybe it is using the 'wrong' shoes that is the problem). I know that I have failed on certain moves wearing one type of shoe, but then done them easily once I changed shoes--and I don't think that my technique improved appreciably in the 5 minutes in between. Of course, which is the 'right' shoe varies very much from person to person.

Alan Rubinwrote:

Lori, I don't know if this has been mentioned on this thread before, but have you tried 'no hands' climbing--either on boulders or on a top rope? It doesn't have to even be on a 'recognized' boulder problem or climb--just something steep enough to require you to 'work at it'--and then, once you've got that down, on something a bit steeper, etc.It is a great way to get you used to body positioning and balance for, at least, lower angle face climbing. As it gets steeper you can use the hands for balance but not pulling or go one-handed. This won't work for climbs of the angle of the B-Y, but still will help you get there.

Though others may disagree, once you get to the upper grades (but that can include some 10s) on edging/crystal climbing, I really think the 'right' shoes can make a big difference (or maybe it is using the 'wrong' shoes that is the problem). I know that I have failed on certain moves wearing one type of shoe, but then done them easily once I changed shoes--and I don't think that my technique improved appreciably in the 5 minutes in between. Of course, which is the 'right' shoe varies very much from person to person.

thank you Alan. The last time I tried to hands-free climb was in the climbing gym. But it couldn’t hurt for developing better balance and some core strength. I’ve been browsing through some old pictures today and having a come to Jesus moment. I don’t know if I can fix this but I’m going to try. As for shoes I never thought I was so special that I needed more than ordinary climbing shoes but it turns out that I just perform better in TC pros and especially the newest model has such great edges and they’re a little firmer in the sole. What I do notice and what is important at least here on steep slab is to clean the damn soles off and make them squeak. I have not always been a squeaker   but I am learning my lesson from Bob, don’t even bother unless the rock is cool and your shoes are clean.

Check out Frank Newsome.  makes us rock climbers look like whimps... 

Alan Rubinwrote:

Lori, I don't know if this has been mentioned on this thread before, but have you tried 'no hands' climbing--either on boulders or on a top rope? It doesn't have to even be on a 'recognized' boulder problem or climb--just something steep enough to require you to 'work at it'--and then, once you've got that down, on something a bit steeper, etc.It is a great way to get you used to body positioning and balance for, at least, lower angle face climbing. As it gets steeper you can use the hands for balance but not pulling or go one-handed. This won't work for climbs of the angle of the B-Y, but still will help you get there.

Though others may disagree, once you get to the upper grades (but that can include some 10s) on edging/crystal climbing, I really think the 'right' shoes can make a big difference (or maybe it is using the 'wrong' shoes that is the problem). I know that I have failed on certain moves wearing one type of shoe, but then done them easily once I changed shoes--and I don't think that my technique improved appreciably in the 5 minutes in between. Of course, which is the 'right' shoe varies very much from person to person.

What you said about hands free is good, I've also practiced a variation where you can use hands for balance but no fingers, just something to help with better rock posture as mentioned earlier. I also agree shoes count a ton. I definitely can't climb too hard in my daily comfort "clogs" as I have been told. I do appreciate having fairly straight toes after suffering FT for years.

Lori, take note that in that second to last picture, Jeremy has his knees against the rock and his feet/ankles turned way out. The turnout takes a few inches off the steepness, compared to standing heels out. The knees let him stand around like it's nothing, hands off and smiling. But think about the turnout, you know it from dancing. And Alan's thoughts about no hands is great. Bob will know where you can try this, traversing close to the ground.

Bull riders are nuts.  Ask Russ!!

Kristian Solemwrote:

Lori, take note that in that second to last picture, Jeremy has his knees against the rock and his feet/ankles turned way out. The turnout takes a few inches off the steepness, compared to standing heels out. The knees let him stand around like it's nothing, hands off and smiling. But think about the turnout, you know it from dancing. And Alan's thoughts about no hands is great. Bob will know where you can try this, traversing close to the ground.

And it doesn't take flexibility in the hips.  If you can stand straight up on the ground then you can stand straight up on the rock. Think about it that way.  Always being standing 90 degrees to gravity with your body straight.  We did a route in Tuolumne called Needle Spoon.  The second pitch is 10b thin edging and smearing.  My friend Nick climbed it with no hands while basically almost running up the wall.  He never set a foot on a hold and never held onto a single handhold.  But his body position was perfect and it looked 5.4 while he did it.  The thing is, everyone after him that day tried the same thing and fell off.  It is all about belief and posture.  I don't think there are two better words to describe good face climbing technique - belief and posture.

And no hands climbing will really encourage you to work on both of those things.

Jan Mcwrote:

If you can stand straight up on the ground then you can stand straight up on the rock. Think about it that way. 

Never heard it said better.

As an aside, don't let my praise go to your head  

Jan Mcwrote:

And it doesn't take flexibility in the hips.  If you can stand straight up on the ground then you can stand straight up on the rock. Think about it that way.  Always being standing 90 degrees to gravity with your body straight.  We did a route in Tuolumne called Needle Spoon.  The second pitch is 10b thin edging and smearing.  My friend Nick climbed it with no hands while basically almost running up the wall.  He never set a foot on a hold and never held onto a single handhold.  But his body position was perfect and it looked 5.4 while he did it.  The thing is, everyone after him that day tried the same thing and fell off.  It is all about belief and posture.  I don't think there are two better words to describe good face climbing technique - belief and posture.

And no hands climbing will really encourage you to work on both of those things.

Lori, another thing you could try is closing your eyes, and just feeling with your finger tips. When the slab is really blank I use this to allow me to move faster rather than looking around for those non-existent "holds".

Staying with friends in Rumney NH for a few days.  My daughter Ella (10) had trouble on this 5.5 then flashed three V4/5 problems in their home gym.  Go figure..

My mother taught me to walk with a book on my head. How about I try that? (And belief).    

Lori,  there was a slabby boulder on top of the mountain that our local crag is on.  its  probably only about 5.6 and a 12ft slab that gets you to the tippy top summit. I always  walked up and down that thing with no hands ..  one of my students on top of it BINTD...