Grid Bolting is a Myth

F r i t zwrote:

Pretty sure he has a dimple there that would take a bomber pink tricam. Might get chopped.

Would you name your route The Nose?

And Kevin, I award you One (1) Snuggly Gote for correctly identifying a "No True Scotsman" fallacy.

Lol, maybe it'll be a mixed climb! I'd probably name it "In The Face of Hypocrisy"!

Princess Puppy Lovrwrote:

While I havent climbed at Indian Creek I would contend it is actually not grid bolted, it looks near impossible to free the space between the cracks. I would also agree that Joshua Tree and the Gunks, are not grid bolted but they would be better with more bolts.

Moving goalposts as A V would say (man, I miss that guy)

Just trying to breathe fresh air into the convo!

That's a new one. You've earned 2 troll points

No one has complained about it being over bolted on the route page?

Literally the only comment on the route addresses this

When I make it to the land of choss I will hit you up!

Where would that be? 

Sometimes this just has to be the situation. Any low horizontal roof needs bolts close to avoid decking. Maybe that takes a star away but I wouldn't say that is always because it was grid bolted.

I agree, however many of those lose stars for an awkward move out of the roof,, which is also why the z-clip potential is there

I don't know if that is the best example 3.5 stars seems that half the people don't seem bothered at all by the bolting. 

You been on the route or spent much time in the area? The name of route is actually in reference to the bolting and wandering nature of the route which leads to roe drag and unclipping of bolts. The redpoint beta is quite literally knowing which bolts to unclip in order to prevent heinous rope drag. 

I think any thread that is long has to have some disagreements. There are not many threads that get bumped for agreements.

That's not true 

I have reached out to quite a few, no one has taken me up that disliked me. I have made plenty of friends who agree with my posts or want to climb with a crazy person. 

Fair enough, though still seems hypocritical

Well I was using marcs definition. 

The one you disagree with?

Seems pretty frequent they end off topic regardless of my presence. 

True as that may be, you seem to be involved in more topics than others. Common denominator?

Matthew Jaggerswrote:

im putting up a gluein route right between his eyes! 

bomber glueins do tend to improve the head game

https://www.mountainproject.com/area/105739686/good-medicine-area

Arguably grid-bolted but people love it

Fail Fallingwrote:

Why doesn't the posting limit on this site ever seem to apply to you?

Over 200 likes in just 3 days for this post?

24 karat gold!

A brief intermissionary interlude for entertainment sake...

A badass climber friend, 2 or 3 decades younger than Old Lady H, was grumbling to me about his latest climbing trip, via a text convo.

"Why?" I asked. "What bugged you so much?"

His reply?

"Bukake bolted! I hate that!!!"

"What's that?" she asks.

"Uhhhh...."

I have to admit?

It was both a rather fun excursion googling bukake.

And also a very apt term to apply!

Petition to change the name of the Sport climbing forum to Bukake sport climbing, where bolts smother the rock.

Not Not MP Adminwrote:

Moving goalposts as A V would say (man, I miss that guy)

I did not say everything was grid bolted just most crags!

That's a new one. You've earned 2 troll points

Literally the only comment on the route addresses this

Yeah but as you alluded to earlier is too many bolts the same thing as grid bolting? 

Where would that be? 

Colorado!

I agree, however many of those lose stars for an awkward move out of the roof,, which is also why the z-clip potential is there

Yeah but the route is still popular, many routes could be improved by moving bolts.

You been on the route or spent much time in the area? The name of route is actually in reference to the bolting and wandering nature of the route which leads to roe drag and unclipping of bolts. The redpoint beta is quite literally knowing which bolts to unclip in order to prevent heinous rope drag. 

I have been at crags that have hardly any routes that is problem still occurs.

That's not true 

When has someone started a thread that everyone agreed with that didn't fizzle out in a few days.

The one you disagree with?

Yeah!

3 out of 10 troll. 3 because enough people bit. 

Princess Puppy Lovrwrote:

I did not say everything was grid bolted just most crags!

The goalposts seem to be moving still

Yeah but as you alluded to earlier is too many bolts the same thing as grid bolting? 

I didn’t allude to this at all, I simply gave an example of a route that was of lesser quality due to an excessive amount of bolts. As far as “too many bolts“ being the same as grid bolting. No, grid bolting is something that effects a crag whereas “too many bolts” in this conversation refers to a singular route. Someone else pointed this out as well.  Over-bolting (a route) and grid bolting (a wall) are two different things. 

Colorado!

I agree, Colorado is the land of quantity over quality. Also not where I’m from. Nice try though.  

Yeah but the route is still popular

It’s really not. I wouldn’t base everything off of the ol’ MP, my guy. That route receives very little traffic for the wall and even less for the area. Stick to PNW routes/areas. 

I have been at crags that have hardly any routes that is problem still occurs.

What does this have to do with anything…?

When has someone started a thread that everyone agreed with that didn't fizzle out in a few days.

New and experienced climbers over 50 (maybe not everyone “agreeing” but certainly not much arguing/trolling), Climbing memes (aside from the occasional hating-on-too-much-text-conversations), Unsung hero’s, Why do you climb trad, Trad dad tips , what does your woody look like…..there’s quite a few you just aren’t a part of them and probably don’t contain the sustenance you are looking for.

I’d also like to add to that you could very much argue that your harness in/out thread is an example of this as well as everyone is agreement that you’re wrong…

Yeah!

So now you’re trying to use a definition you disagree with to support your side? Bold strat

Glad your back though, I never know what to do on here when you’re gone. 

Bahahahahahahaha 

Princess Puppy Lovr: Functionally many many trad climbs are abundant with gear options, effectively grid bolted 

the very next post:

Also Princess Puppy Lovr: While I havent climbed at Indian Creek I would contend it is actually not grid bolted

I understand you’re just trolling PP Lovr, but do you not: 

a.) understand the level of hypocrisy/stupidity you’re spewing out with posts like these 

b.)understand that routes aren’t grid bolted, but rather areas. Grid bolting refers to bolting a wall in a grid-like pattern…

For grid bolting to exist one must have a piece of rock that is homeomorphic to a plane.  To repair grid bolted areas, simply remove sufficient amounts of rock between bolted lines such that a climber cannot span or otherwise connect separate lines.  A local climbers coalition (Quietly Understated And Rarely Raucous Youth) in concert with BHP/Rio Tinto is working to do just that in Washington, beginning at the Lower Town Wall and moving from there on to the Nevermind Wall.  Once done, these areas will resemble the Feathers, a nearly perfect natural formation and the Platonic ideal of what a climbing area should be like.

Join us!

Xavier Phillippewrote:

For grid bolting to exist one must have a piece of rock that is homeomorphic to a plane.  To repair grid bolted areas, simply remove sufficient amounts of rock between bolted lines such that a climber cannot span or otherwise connect separate lines.  A local climbers coalition (Quietly Understated And Rarely Raucous Youth) in concert with BHP/Rio Tinto is working to do just that in Washington, beginning at the Lower Town Wall and moving from there on to the Nevermind Wall.  Once done, these areas will resemble the Feathers, a nearly perfect natural formation and the Platonic ideal of what a climbing area should be like.

Join us!

Yes! Please!

M Mwrote:

Yes! Please!

We at QUARRY aim to please.

Bolt the planet now!
Jesus commands it, for real.
Stick clip, bro strong, climb.

Princess Puppy Lovr wrote:

I thought the climbing in Hawaii was top tier but you could traverse the whole wall if you wanted safely finding gear or bolts. Index often you just get to ledges where you can just traverse into any other route. Vantage and lower smith you can just cross into another route almost whenever you want. There isn’t anything wrong with the climbing in these areas. But if sucks it gets called grid bolted if it’s fun it’s ignored.

You're losing steam here bud, all I wanna know is if you consider Indian grid bolted or not? I mean you can literally place hundreds of cams on any given route if you so choose.....but then you later said that it's not grid bolted. I just need some clarification instead of deflection rants like this one ^^^ 

Go Back to Super Topowrote:

You're losing steam here bud, all I wanna know is if you consider Indian grid bolted or not? I mean you can literally place hundreds of cams on any given route if you so choose.....but then you later said that it's not grid bolted. I just need some clarification instead of deflection rants like this one ^^^ 

I don't think it is grid bolted since you cannot wonder left and right of the cracks. However for those anti grid bolting can you even list 10 crags that are grid bolted where the average stars at the crag would be increased by a star had it not been grid bolted?

Princess Puppy Lovrwrote:

I don't think it is grid bolted since you cannot wonder left and right of the cracks. However for those anti grid bolting can you even list 10 crags that are grid bolted where the average stars at the crag would be increased by a star had it not been grid bolted?

Yeah, but didn’t you say any trad route is essentially grid bolted? 

Lovers-leap and half of Yosemite should be grid bolted. 

Tourism $ should fund poverty alleviation projects. 

Crag MonsterDouchewrote:

Lovers-leap and half of Yosemite should be grid bolted. 

Tourism $ should fund poverty alleviation projects. 

Roller coasters in the valley could help fund future wars for cheap gas as well, really it would be a win win for America.

Princess Puppy Lovrwrote:

I don't think it is grid bolted since you cannot wonder left and right of the cracks. However for those anti grid bolting can you even list 10 crags that are grid bolted where the average stars at the crag would be increased by a star had it not been grid bolted?

You seem to think that grid bolting is something that is planned ahead of time.