Adjustable personal tether, releasable under load?

No worries. Yeah, etriers could be a good strategy too. As I said, not really looking for an overall strategy, was more just curious about one particular piece of gear - which is why I originally didn't include the whole scenario. Thanks for all the great ideas everyone! I definitely have a few things to try out.

Luc wrote:Though you need a separate backup, since it's not a personal anchor: fishproducts.com/catalog/bi… They are hell to release when fuzzy.

that's awesome

I'd go with a munter and friction hitch on a short length of rope.

1 end of the rope is tied off to a large locker that's clipped to the tyrolean. The rope from the biner goes down to a munter clipped to the harness and the brake strand is redirected through a biner (or pulley if needed) clipped to the large locker. An easily releasable friction hitch is tied to the re-directed brake strand and clipped to the harness.

I'm slightly disappointed that this isn't sex swing rigging but good for you helping paraplegics get out climbing.

I have a connect adjust. Easily adjusts under body weight whole at anchor stations, never used it at a totally hanging belay but I have little doubt that it would work well. It essentially functions as an ATC guide, which if you've ever used to lower someone you'll find it operates similarly.

The Kong Slyde is too small and hard to unbloc to lengthen easily. The Trango Cinch might work, a little smaller and cheaper than the Grigri. From the reviews I read it is releasable under load.

With the amount of climbing, caving and rigging equipment they create and sell, I'd be very surprised if Petzl doesn't have a solution for you but it might be a product out of their climbing range so people here don't know about it.

How about just sending a quick email to a few companies (petzl,Kong, ct, others?) asking them for a solution?

It might be more expensive then you'd like but maybe not!

Maybe also try an arborist forum. These guys have a lot of weird stuff that could work.

2ond John The Wolf- many products in arborist and lineman catalogs- I have to use this set up for my work it will release under some tension- still need to use both hands and take some weight off.
Hope this picture uploads- good luck

Like the OP, I am looking for an adjustable PAS device which can be released under load. I want the ability to shorten AND release under load. It will serve as a positioning device for all the crap a solo climber has to deal with, mostly fast mid-pitch self belay escape.

I want a device which is compact and can be used for other PAS type applications and can live on my harness. Once it is available (from first quarter of 2022), I will buy and the Climbing Technology Tuner I. It promises release while loaded as well as all of the other adjustability things. I looks like it has a release built in. It has a sizable "end knot". If the release is controllable/smooth then it will be a welcome addition to me. 

https://www.climbingtechnology.com/en/outdoor-en/news/lanyards-new/tuner-i

MadRock Safeguard with a piece of dynamic rope. Can also be used for belaying a second or TR belaying. Smaller, cheaper and lighter than a Grigri. Same as a Lifeguard but without the spring. 

rgingwrote: Purcell Prusik. Make your own.

and in fact a purcell can be easily shortened to next-to-zero.  simply clip a carabiner from your harness to inside the closed prusik loop, then slide the prusik hitch away from your harness, reducing the length of the loop.  Rigging for Rescue does in fact teach this method.  I've used a version of the purcell tied with "easy-glide-prusik" (which isolates the double-fishermans knot from the load) for decades.  Once left a sample for a local shop to show customers, and within a couple weeks they had virtually stopped selling manufactured personal anchors.   Their customers preferred what I christened PAPA (personal anchor prusik accessory), easily constructed from  6-mil cord for a fraction of the price of manufactured PAS (or is it POS...?)  and you're correct - I find it easy to adjust while loaded.

-Haireball

I've been using the Connect Adjust for a while. It shortens easily one-handed.  To lengthen when weighted, you need two hands and a bit of unobvious technique, which is that you have to tighten up a tad, which rotates the plate into the release position, and then with the other hand keeping the plate in that position, you can use bodyweight to lengthen.  In another thread, Kevin Deweese said that this works if your feet can be braced against the wall, but won't work if you are free-hanging, say while aiding out a ceiling.  (I only use my CA as a tether and so have never been in the totally free-hanging situation).  

Camp also makes a device, the Camp Swing https://www.camp-usa.com/outdoor/product/rope-tools/swing-dynamic-belay-lanyard/ . I and everyone I know who has tried it out almost immediately concluded that the bit of dynamic rope it comes with is too fat for the device and that handling is quite bad. But Kevin reports (see https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/120501189/petzl-adjust-vs-camp-swing#ForumMessage-120501303 ) that tossing the supplied rope and using a smaller diameter piece (8.8mm) makes for a system that is fully releasable under body weight in all circumstances.

Curt Hairewrote:

and in fact a purcell can be easily shortened to next-to-zero.  simply clip a carabiner from your harness to inside the closed prusik loop, then slide the prusik hitch away from your harness, reducing the length of the loop.  Rigging for Rescue does in fact teach this method.  I've used a version of the purcell tied with "easy-glide-prusik" (which isolates the double-fishermans knot from the load) for decades.  Once left a sample for a local shop to show customers, and within a couple weeks they had virtually stopped selling manufactured personal anchors.   Their customers preferred what I christened PAPA (personal anchor prusik accessory), easily constructed from  6-mil cord for a fraction of the price of manufactured PAS (or is it POS...?)  and you're correct - I find it easy to adjust while loaded.

-Haireball

I’m having trouble picturing this. Do you have a photo?

SICgripswrote:

MadRock Safeguard with a piece of dynamic rope. Can also be used for belaying a second or TR belaying. Smaller, cheaper and lighter than a Grigri. Same as a Lifeguard but without the spring. 

Can't get a Madrock Safeguard in the EU because it is not CE marked. I can see how it's size makes it plausible as an allround positioning device for recreational climbing. 

I like the Petzl Adjust but there's room for improvement. Climbing Technology is coming later to the adjustable PAS game than Petzl, Camp, and Edelrid, so maybe they have come up with something more substantial.

The Swing works better turned around and clipped to harness after replacing rope, as mentioned before.

Sticht Hitch, above, is a vast improvement over the Prusik, if going the friction hitch route.  This is the best performing configuration, but a simpler version can be made with 4-5’ of cord and a rap ring only.

ART positioner 2. I use it on my work lanyard. Easy to shorten one handed, two is ideal to lengthen. It's got a little swivel built in so the orientation stays true. Small and compact

NathanBwrote:

ART positioner 2. I use it on my work lanyard. Easy to shorten one handed, two is ideal to lengthen. It's got a little swivel built in so the orientation stays true. Small and compact

Same weight as a grigri and rated for ropes 11-13mm? 

I concur with 'SICgrips'.
I have yet to see any 'PAL' system that is more effective and efficient than the Madrock 'Safeguard' paired with a Beal 8.5mm dynamic 'Opera' rope.
I purchased an Opera rope and cut it into several varying lengths for my employees and also for personal use. You can make a personal lanyard to any length specification you desire.
Longer length PAL (personal adjustable lanyard) require a hip pouch for stowage.
As SICgrips pointed out, there is no return spring in the 'safeguard' - and this is an essential design characteristic.
It doesn't matter where you live in the world - it should be possible to ship the product to any address (via internet purchase).

Saw this today. 

Christopher Chuwrote:

Saw this today. 

Can’t shorten one handed the way it’s configured, needs better hitches closer to the carabiner.

Christopher Chuwrote:

Saw this today. 

If the friction hitch were changed to a VT prussik (or a Swabish), then it could be released under load (even while free hanging) with just one hand. The cord would have to knotted eye-to-eye instead of a closed loop for a VT prussik. To make one handed shortening possible, you'd need something (e.g. small maillon) to attend the friction it from underneath. I will play with this. If I come up with something which works and is rackable, I'll post a photo.