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Adjustable personal tether, releasable under load?


Brocky · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 0

The friction hitch is clipped to your harness and tied to a separate rope that goes to the anchor and then comes back and is clipped to your harness. The two ropes going from the anchor and the climber allows the lanyard to be lengthen under load as both share the load. This isn't possible with just a single rope. Ideally at the anchor would be a pulley on a carabiner to improve the bend ratio but just a carabiner or ring would work.

Em Cos · · Boulder, CO · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 5
Seth Jones wrote: I would say use a sling to clip in direct while at the anchor. Then if you need more length, connect the rope to the anchor with a clove at the desired length then unclip the sling and weight the rope. No extra gear needed, gives u a quick clip in when needed instead of messing one handed cloves, adjust length while backed up. I tried figuring out a good PAS system that would be dedicated and easy but it's just not worth it when you have all the tools necessary already on you. Every dedicated solution just seemed to complicate things and clutter my harness with stuff I don't need.
No rope, no anchor - I'm well-versed in how to anchor in multi-pitch climbing and rappelling situations. This is a different, very specific, single-purpose need.

Ideally something like this: petzl.com/US/EN/Sport/Lanya…
or this:
mountaingear.com/webstore//…
if they could be lengthened while weighted, but I didn't want to start buying them just to test if they can be.

or this:
bluugnome.com/cyn_how-to/ge…
if it could be shortened to a few inches.

A gri-gri with a short length of rope would work perfectly, but is way too expensive for a single-purpose dedicated tether.
Em Cos · · Boulder, CO · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 5
Brocky wrote:The friction hitch is clipped to your harness and tied to a separate rope that goes to the anchor and then comes back and is clipped to your harness. The two ropes going from the anchor and the climber allows the lanyard to be lengthen under load as both share the load. This isn't possible with just a single rope. Ideally at the anchor would be a pulley on a carabiner to improve the bend ratio but just a carabiner or ring would work.
Hmm...bet a single rope with an autoblock rather than a prussik would work.
Chris Rice · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 50

the Metolius easy daisy I have used before wall climbing and liked it. I had an old Fish Adjustable daisy which also might work for your needs.

ac1 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 15

"This is a different, very specific, single-purpose need."

If you could be less cryptic, and actually tell us exactly what your intended use will be, we could be more helpful.

Keatan · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 20

Yates adjustable daisy might fit your needs

windexxx · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 30

Perhaps an allfreefi (or some mod/concept of) will meet your needs?

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=2696848

Brocky · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 0

Yes, I didn't think of that Mammut Smart ,Kong Gigi or CT Clickup or similar would work though more gear.

rging · · Salt Lake City, Ut · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 210

Purcell Prusik. Make your own.

Seth Jones · · New Lenox, IL · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 25
ac1 wrote: If you could be less cryptic, and actually tell us exactly what your intended use will be, we could be more helpful.
This is what I'm thinking. What does a PAS do if you don't have an anchor??? No rope? WHAT R DOING YOU, HMM? :)

Edit:
I figured it out! She needs a way to adjust a sex swing for optimal height without getting out of it, thus ruining the mood! WINNING!
T340 · · Idaho · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 5

Em,
Dying of curiosity here. What's your specific use??

PaulMudd · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 5
rging wrote:Purcell Prusik. Make your own.
What he said, my friends use theirs all the time. I dont like the complication.
Brocky · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 0

The Purcell doesn't get the climber as close as Em wants to get.

Em Cos · · Boulder, CO · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 5

It's not about sex swing rigging.
At least, it wasn't originally about sex swing rigging... now I'm distracted. What were we talking about?

Sorry guys, wasn't trying to be mysterious, just hoping to keep the conversation focused on the very specific and possibly imaginary piece of gear that I had in mind. Since I said in the first post that a purcell won't work and then it was suggested by several people, I can see that my efforts to keep the responses on track were in vain anyway.

OK so here's the situation - my normal procedure for a tyrolean traverse is to clip something long, like a sling or the last loop of a PAS, to the rope, to have some protection while I get into position and at the far end while climbing down. Then I clip something short, like a closer loop of a PAS or a quickdraw, which is my main attachment as I pull across.

Part of my work is with adaptive recreation, and I was considering ways that with simple modifications of gear or technique we could make a tyrolean traverse accessible to more people - folks with limited strength or mobility in one or both arms, for instance. One mod would be to use a progress-capture pulley rather than a carabiner to connect to the rope - it would reduce friction making pulling easier, and allow for resting without losing progress, or could be used with one arm without losing progress while moving your arm forward for the next pull. The specific problem I was thinking of with this post is how to balance keeping the climber as close to the rope as possible (making it easier to pull) while also having an easy way to disconnect that close tether without requiring the strength or gymnastic skill to unweight the rope. There are probably lots of ways to deal with this, one example to hang a sling on the line to step up in to unclip. I'm sure there are plenty of other ideas as well. Recently I saw a climber with the Petzl Connect mentioned earlier in the thread, and I was thinking if that was load-releasable while weighted, it would be ideal - clip to rope, pull tight, traverse across, lengthen tether (with back-up longer tether still clipped), step down and unclip the (previously) shorter tether without having to pull up on the rope and unhook a carabiner with one arm.

I was wondering if it was easy or even possible to lengthen the Petzl Connect or an adjustable daisy while weighted, and if not, if there was another piece of gear that it was possible with.

Wasn't really interested in long conversations about all the other elements of the situation, which is why I left it out and focused on the one specific gear question, but hopefully I have satisfied your curiosity. And thank you to all of those who responded with useful suggestions, it has been very helpful!

csproul · · Davis, CA · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 330

Sounds like an adjustable daisy connected to a progress capture pulley might work.

Ian Dorko · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 100

-tie in with a piece of rope
-use a munter hitch on a locker to attach to your tyrolean/anchor/whatever
-use a friction hitch attached to your belay loop on the brake strand of the munter

you should be able to initially rig it super short and then give slack one-handed through the friction hitch to lengthen the rig (essentially lowering yourself out on the munter).

Ben Stabley · · Portland, OR · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 167

Purcell Prusik with a stopper knot to make an extra clipping loop. Keep in mind that this is likely weaker than a purcell used normally. Tie as shown. Clip into that small loop by the double fisherman's knot (the purple carabiner is in the main loop). It'll slide all the way from your harness to the normal max extension of the purcell.

Purcell prusik with extra clipping loop for getting really short.

Another option is to clip 2 locking carabiners to the purcell's main loop. Then clip one back to your belay loop. As you slide the prusik knot, the loop becomes larger or smaller, and makes the leash longer or shorter. I've used that when a guide made me pre-rig my rappel.

Squeak · · Perth West OZ · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 21

from the videos I looked at the Connect adjust, or progress, would work as you want.
Simple one handed operation for extending and pulling in.

Van Doan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 0
rocknice2 · · Montreal, Quebec · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 3,067

The Petzl Connect won't release when weighted.

To be able to lower under weight and then lock she'll need a GriGri on a short rope.

I'm curious what she's planning on doing with the rig. A clue might yield different methods to the problem.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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