New and Experienced Climbers Over 50 #18

Guy. I never said he was a nice guy,. I just pointed out that an eastern climber went out west and stole / sent a bunch of projects in response to Lori implying that the western climbers were somehow better.  Other eastern climbers who bagged significant 1st ascents out there are  Fritz, Durrance, McCarthy etc.... 

Eric,   Does Rob owe the guy who dropped him and then rescued him for the rescue?  Having read both their books the real  discrepancy in their stories was  not leaving him mangled in a 3rd world country. It was dropping him and then lying about it.   Rob claims the screw held and he was dropped because Henry was taking a photo instead of belaying.  Rob claims he looked up after landing on the ledge and the screw was still up there with the rope running through it. Henry claims that the screw pulled.  Someone is  flat out lying.  In Henrys book there is a shot of Rob just before he fell and he looks like he is coming off at any moment. The cameras we had back then required both hands to operate. Manual focus, manual film advance, manual shutter speed and F stop.  The photographic evidence supports Robs story over Henrys . Is what it is. 

Nothing beats a bunch of dudes arguing about a long ago incident 40 years ago on another continent, old school!

didn’t most climbers use rollei35s back then, pretty easy to use 1 handed….

I met Henry Barber at a party in Joshua Tree many years ago, and I really enjoyed our conversation.

Henry had about half a dozen years when he was on fire, climbing the hardest stuff wherever he went, earning him the "Hot Henry" nickname. In the 70's, when he came to Yosemite Valley, he snatched the first ascent of Butterballs (11c; 1973) and Fish Crack (12b; 1975), two of the best finger cracks in the Valley, before the locals knew what was up. Fish Crack was one of the first 5.12s in the Valley. During his hot streak, at every area he visited, Henry was always one step ahead, with the young hotshots at his heels.

He earned his place as one of the most influential rock climbers to come out of the Northeast. 

But after that accident in Africa things changed. In the Waterman book A Fine Kind of Madness: Mountain Adventures Tall and True, Waterman writes: "In a short space of time, Barber went from being the darling of the climbing world to the object of scorn of many critics....Though he continued to climb, he avoided publicity, never reported first ascents, and deliberately drew back from the competition at the cutting edge of the sport."

Waterman concludes: "No one will ever again stand out ahead of the pack or raise an entire region's sights as dramatically as did hot Henry Barber in his days of wine and roses."

Any of you guys ever climb with Henry? Heard he's into fly fishing now.

Fish Crack

Henry also basically walked into the Valley and onsight-soloed the Salathe-Steck.  He not only snatched some Yosemite projects, but did them with just stoppers and hexes at a time when the locals were still driving pins on harder routes.  Now that cams are well-established, I'd guess no one repeats those routes the way Henry did them.

I think what made Henry exceptional---besides his boldness---was a totally intuitive feel for all types of rock.  Most Easterners struggled with Yosemite Offwidths, but Henry was as good as the best as soon as he showed up.

Nice day climbing today, I felt that I climbed really nicely, working out some nice beta and my footwork felt really nice. Routes I'd done before, just on TR. 

I was heavy (67. 2 kilos), as I pigged out on Doritos and beer last night, but didn't feel it... 

Bought some new clippers and cut my hair. Went too short, now I look like I want to kill someone. Talking about killing, almost ran over a family of ducks on the way to the crag. I love duck families, they're so cute.

"Fish Crack"  was named "Cold Turkey" by Barber, as that was what they called him instead of " Hot Henry."  Of course the locals refused to use the name.

I met Barber at a slideshow, and then Rob Taylor ice climbing in Huntinfton Ravine.  Taylor talked about their upcoming trip to Kilimanjaro saying: "Henry's so bloody headstrong he'll pull me up the thing."  Seemed like a nice guy.

Ward Smithwrote:

How are the bolts in PR Eric?  I'm sketched by the thought of non stainless in a tropical environment.  I guess I'm a pansy since I use stainless glue-ins in bomber stone.

I think I read somewhere that new route dev and rebolting are generally being done with Ti glu-in's with the 'right' epoxy.  Can't seem to find the source, however.

GabeOwrote:

My family went to San Juan a couple years ago (pre-covid) and had a blast.  Beaches and pools for kid and grandparents, culture, good food, and even a bit of excellent climbing for my wife and I.  Not sure if you've been, but there's a great sport destination like a 20 minute drive from downtown San Juan. 

GO

Thanks, Gabe for the info.  I will impose on you for more Beta if the trip materializes.
No, I've never been to PR.  I def want to visit.

Carl Schneiderwrote:

Nice day climbing today, I felt that I climbed really nicely, working out some nice beta and my footwork felt really nice. Routes I'd done before, just on TR. 

I was heavy (67. 2 kilos), as I pigged out on Doritos and beer last night, but didn't feel it... 

Bought some new clippers and cut my hair. Went too short, now I look like I want to kill someone. Talking about killing, almost ran over a family of ducks on the way to the crag. I love duck families, they're so cute.

Always chirpy and happy, Carl... (except when you're not.   ) I'm glad you just ride right over any drama. I was so focused on East Coast and West Coast gangs yesterday, until Kris busted it up with his picture with Dr. Dre. OMG that had me laughing all morning. Forevermore his moniker should be Knoc'Turnal. Before, when my kid thought he was black, I was 'representing' Rocklin, CA. I don't think I can 'represent' Joshua Tree now... not nearly enough street cred to do that. But a good gang name would be helpful. No one has assigned me a climbing name yet.

But I digress.  What crew does Australia come from?   

On our way down the hill to Palm Desert for a doctor appointment Tony announced that I have 'taken all the joy and pleasure out of driving' for him... 'sucked the driving joy out of his soul'.  He actually said that--dead serious.  This is a somewhat curvy downhill grade... and I do clutch the handrails because he won't slow down.  Tony says he loves me, but can't drive me anymore.  He said if he drives slow (aka, the speed limit) he will fall asleep.  And there's no joy in it.  I had no idea, really, that driving for Tony is like climbing for me.  I just want to arrive without having soaked through my clothes in a sweat and panic.  He sees it as his time to express himself   . And that's not to mention the Italian gestures...arms and hands flapping any time he sees someone not being 'respectful'.

The final straw, I guess, was my googling 'left hand lane'.  Tony has insisted that it is strictly a passing lane... that it is not a cruising lane.  So, apparently that is the case in most of the US.  You stay out of the left lane, except to pass.  HOWEVER, in California it is the 'fast lane'.  It's ok to be there going with the flow of traffic.  Why does this upset him so much? 

So... we are at an impasse.  There is no 'enjoying the journey' for Tony.  I think he desperately missing truck driving.  He has a lot of pride about those days. Maybe needs a part time job behind the wheel again.  And he opines about the muscle cars and luxury cars before that.  I asked him about a former girlfriend yesterday, when did he date her?  She was the 75 Oldsmobile Toranado...   a car, now that I look at it, you could not have paid me to ride in.  (T driving the moving van)

We are from different planets.  

PS. The convo on East coast climbers is so interesting.  Rgold's mention is enlightening on the differences.  I have no frame of reference here.  Mainly, I was just wondering if you all knew what the rest of the world was doing... 

Probably the only reason there were east coast and west coast and southern “factions” is that there was no internet, no email, no cell phones, and long distance phone calls cost a lot of money. A lot of knowledge - about people and climbing areas -  was local. 

Lori Milaswrote:

But I digress. What crew does Australia come from?  

I've been climbing in New Zealand and Australia.  The Kiwis say that the Aussies are a "select" race: they were selected by judges in England, lol.

Part of why the Seneca, North Carolina, Daks and Gunks rateings are so stiff is because no one wanted to be seen as soft  and with little information to go with it was best to just call it 5.8 if it was hard and 5.9 if it was desperate. 

I wrote out a brilliant response but got the “over post limit” BS.
So all I have to say is HB sure could climb and busting into the Valley and grabbing the projects is a fabulous way to introduce yourself.

He did a climb locality, some 10b with Chounard all clean on tiny wires. Some local folks- who get all bent out of shape over boltsretro bolted it so it would be safe. The man could climb.

Traveling to different places with the sole purpose of bagging projects is a big part of our history. Kamps bagged the FA of the Diamond and rode in the convertible in the Boulder parade.
After “that dude from Colorado” stole the FFA of Insomnia we passed the hat so JB could go to Boulder and return the favor.

Lori said… “The final straw, I guess, was my googling 'left hand lane'.  Tony has insisted that it is strictly a passing lane... that it is not a cruising lane.  So, apparently that is the case in most of the US.  You stay out of the left lane, except to pass.  HOWEVER, in California it is the 'fast lane'.  It's ok to be there going with the flow of traffic.  Why does this upset him so much? “

Because he knows safe driving. People who stay in the left lane, making folks pass them on the right, are a danger to us all. I personally get really nervous when I’m a passenger and cars are flying by on the right. Sorry I learned how to drive in Germany and hanging in the left lane can get you a big ticket or killed.

Guy Keeseewrote:

Because he knows safe driving. People who stay in the left lane, making folks pass them on the right, are a danger to us all. I personally get really nervous when I’m a passenger and cars are flying by on the right. Sorry I learned how to drive in Germany and hanging in the left lane can get you a big ticket or killed.

Yes.
IMHO, CT and NY have the worst "urban" drivers when it comes to safe passing and lane discipline.

S. Neohwrote:

Yes.
IMHO, CT and NY have the worst "urban" drivers when it comes to safe passing and lane discipline.

Obviously you haven’t spent time in Utah….

Lori Milaswrote:

Always chirpy and happy, Carl... (except when you're not.   ) I'm glad you just ride right over any drama. I was so focused on East Coast and West Coast gangs yesterday, until Kris busted it up with his picture with Dr. Dre. OMG that had me laughing all morning. Forevermore his moniker should be Knoc'Turnal. Before, when my kid thought he was black, I was 'representing' Rocklin, CA. I don't think I can 'represent' Joshua Tree now... not nearly enough street cred to do that. But a good gang name would be helpful. No one has assigned me a climbing name yet.

But I digress.  What crew does Australia come from?   

On our way down the hill to Palm Desert for a doctor appointment Tony announced that I have 'taken all the joy and pleasure out of driving' for him... 'sucked the driving joy out of his soul'.  He actually said that--dead serious.  This is a somewhat curvy downhill grade... and I do clutch the handrails because he won't slow down.  Tony says he loves me, but can't drive me anymore.  He said if he drives slow (aka, the speed limit) he will fall asleep.  And there's no joy in it.  I had no idea, really, that driving for Tony is like climbing for me.  I just want to arrive without having soaked through my clothes in a sweat and panic.  He sees it as his time to express himself   . And that's not to mention the Italian gestures...arms and hands flapping any time he sees someone not being 'respectful'.

The final straw, I guess, was my googling 'left hand lane'.  Tony has insisted that it is strictly a passing lane... that it is not a cruising lane.  So, apparently that is the case in most of the US.  You stay out of the left lane, except to pass.  HOWEVER, in California it is the 'fast lane'.  It's ok to be there going with the flow of traffic.  Why does this upset him so much? 

So... we are at an impasse.  There is no 'enjoying the journey' for Tony.  I think he desperately missing truck driving.  He has a lot of pride about those days. Maybe needs a part time job behind the wheel again.  And he opines about the muscle cars and luxury cars before that.  I asked him about a former girlfriend yesterday, when did he date her?  She was the 75 Oldsmobile Toranado...   a car, now that I look at it, you could not have paid me to ride in.  (T driving the moving van)

We are from different planets.  

PS. The convo on East coast climbers is so interesting.  Rgold's mention is enlightening on the differences.  I have no frame of reference here.  Mainly, I was just wondering if you all knew what the rest of the world was doing... 

I think gangs extremely silly. When I think 'gangs' it's either the movie The Warriors (great movie BTW) or bikie gangs (Mongols, Rebels, Hells Angels etc).  I find it all a lot of schoolboy bravado wank. Put 'em all in the army! I say. That'll sort 'em! Young whipper snappers! I outta! I envisage myself as a kind of Clint Eastwood in Gran Torino when it comes to the gang thing, or the nun in Dead Man Walking, leading the poor soul to Jesus. Due to the recent Climbing Club of South Australia controversy re bolt chopping I DID suggest we start a new club named the People's Front of Judea Climbing Club of South Australia (only Monty Python fans will get that). If we start it, maybe that can be a gang? 

Had a really cool day climbing today with a little crew of friends, and a new friend from Peru. lovely temp of about 23, sunny, slight brisk breeze. We all had a beer at the pup afterwards...

S. Neohwrote:

Yes.
IMHO, CT and NY have the worst "urban" drivers when it comes to safe passing and lane discipline.

Don't forget New Jersey.  Driving to Newark Airport on I-78 at 6am in the rain is soooooo much fun.

Omaha beltway. 70mph bumper to bumper cattle cars with cow shit spraying out through the slats of them big death haulers. I would crap myself also if i was in a metal box flying down the Hwy on the way to the  slaughterhouse. 

throwback rainy Sunday . On top after the FA of Perigin  Dihedral.