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Eldorado Canyon top rope soloing

Original Post
Everett Johnson · · Colorado · Joined Jul 2019 · Points: 76

Hey guys, 

Any recommendations on the best routes to top rope solo in Eldo in the 5.10-5.11 range that can be set up without any approach harder than easy 5th class?

Buck Rio · · MN · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 16

There are a couple of routes on Supremacy Rock. So no, there aren't any good ways to get your rope up there. Juts find a partner and lead the stuff, it is fun. 

Gregger Man · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Aug 2004 · Points: 1,849

Suparete is a good one.

Psychosis is a little trickier to set up, but you can get there up the East Slab 

HappyThursday · · Carbondale, CO · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 250

If you know where to set up, the last pitch of the diving board is as good as it gets.

Anonymous Coward · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2017 · Points: 0

More or less everything near the top of on the main faces of the bastille (depending on rope length), but be courteous of those below you: keep your rope organized and allow them the right of way in all cases.

Molly Z · · Longmont, CO · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 35

I’ve seen people top rope solo blind faith 

Alex Ghiggeri · · Denver, CO · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 115
Molly Zwrote:

I’ve seen people top rope solo blind faith 

That's good to know... Been wanting to get on that

Buck Rio · · MN · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 16
Molly Zhu wrote:

I’ve seen people top rope solo blind faith 

I suppose a 70M rope is mandatory. 

Charlie Martz · · Fort Collins · Joined May 2017 · Points: 45
Buck Riowrote:

I suppose a 70M rope is mandatory. 

And some directionals.

Buck Rio · · MN · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 16

Blind Faith was my first 5.10 lead in Eldo, and is many peoples first 5.10 lead, so I think putting a rope on it would not be so good on a weekend or holiday. 

Can you hang a rope on Tagger? Scramble up to the walk off ledge for WR and Calypso and build an anchor? Seems like you may need some re-directs in there as well IIRC the route trends left.  

James W · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2021 · Points: 0
Buck Riowrote:

Scramble up to the walk off ledge for WR and Calypso and build an anchor? 

Lol - death!

Wind Tower and N Face of Bastille are too crowded for this, better to find less crowded options.  Odds of breaking some choss off and hitting someone on the Bastille is high.

As mentioned, with a long enough rope and an E Slabs approach to possibly the chockstone chimney rap, pretty much any route is possible - and is pretty much how most R and X routes get rehearsed.  Eldo - land of the headpoint poser trad climber.

Brad White · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2006 · Points: 25

Hi Everett,

You can throw a 60 meter rope down Blind Faith from the top and it just reaches the bottom of the first pitch, making for an excellent 60 m lap.

You don't need to defer to folks leading the route, and you don't need to limit yourself to weekdays as has been suggested here. The usual norm is that the first on the route gets 

the route. I would suggest that staying on the route and running multiple laps while people are waiting to get on it is poor form, so be thoughtful of others. 

Brian Carver · · Louisville, CO · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 35

I'll add Prince of Darkness/Laughing at the moon. South Buttress of Redgarden has some long lines if you can pinpoint them from the slabs.

Craig Quincy · · Louisville, CO · Joined Sep 2001 · Points: 306

The best TR soloing in Eldorado is Boulder Canyon....straightforward bolted anchors, easy to get to the top, multiple lines from the same anchor, rope not sawing on a sharp edge, get away from the crowds even.  Seriously.

Patrik · · Third rock from Sun · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 30

Anything out at Cadillac is easy to set up. Bring a bunch of webbing or static as the best anchor points are a bit back from the edge of the cliff.

Buck Rio · · MN · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 16
Craig Quincy wrote:

The best TR soloing in Eldorado is Boulder Canyon....straightforward bolted anchors, easy to get to the top, multiple lines from the same anchor, rope not sawing on a sharp edge, get away from the crowds even.  Seriously.

I know Cob Rock is TRS-able, and so is Castle if you want to do CC Crack, or Athletes Feat...you would just have to set some directional's when you rap down. 

The Dome is also very TRS friendly, as is Elephant Buttress. You can access the top by scrambling up the gully that separates The Dome and EB.

Heather Thorne · · Boulder · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 21

I’ve TR soloed Rincon by tying 2 ropes together and setting several directionals on the way down.  Built a gear anchor up top, extended it to the top of the actual route where I set another, and rapped in.  Also found Xanadu to be a great TR solo, but the approach / setup via the old walkoff is a bit sketchy.  (Both were done in winter so there weren’t any parties waiting)

In BoCan, I’ve had good luck at 3rd and 4th elephant buttress, Nip and Tuck Wall, Cob Rock, and Brick Wall.

There’s even a fun offwidth at Flagstaff near the Monkey Traverse :-)


Have fun and be safe!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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