Olympics climbing feature in NYT

So the consensus is that we as climbers are worried that the exposure of the Olympics will bring more new climbers to our crags and degrade the experience we are currently having…

… but there are several steps of extrapolation in order to get to that point.

I see it much more likely that this event will increase the popularity of gym climbing and also increase the legitimacy of competitive climbing.

We will see an influx of people to our gyms for sure, but how many of them will hang around for a month. And how many of them will find their way outdoors? Probably only a few.

I could see the Olympics reducing outdoor climbing as the younger generations focus more on the competitive side of climbing.

I also think it is narcissistic as heck to think we do the greatest sport in the world and as soon as new people try it they will be hooked. Skateboard, snowboarding, and half the original x games events have seen growth come to a halt.

So the consensus is that we as climbers are worried that the exposure of the Olympics will bring more new climbers to our crags and degrade the experience we are currently having…

… but there are several steps of extrapolation in order to get to that point.

I see it much more likely that this event will increase the popularity of gym climbing and also increase the legitimacy of competitive climbing.

We will see an influx of people to our gyms for sure, but how many of them will hang around for a month. And how many of them will find their way outdoors? Probably only a few.

I could see the Olympics reducing outdoor climbing as the younger generations focus more on the competitive side of climbing.

Princess Puppy Lovrwrote:

So far there is very little evidence of it actually happening. Objectively the ratio of new climbs to closed climbs is STRONGLY in favor of new climbs, I welcome evidence to the contrary. 

Just look to the closure of Cabin Wall in Escalante Canyon in CO. 

Chad Millerwrote:

Just look to the closure of Cabin Wall in Escalante Canyon in CO. 

It's always a bummer to lose a wall, but that one is no great loss, all things considered. Escalante has a couple of decent routes, but it isn't much further of a drive to get to the Creek, where there are exponentially more routes and better ones. I never understood why anyone except bored locals climbed at Escalante. The routes are short and sandbagged, the dirt road is tedious and the bugs are bad.

Peter Funkwrote:

We will see an influx of people to our gyms for sure, but how many of them will hang around for a month. And how many of them will find their way outdoors? Probably only a few.

Trail runners must be so pissed every time the Olympics comes around. All those new people coming out and clogging up all the trails because they watched 100m sprints on the TV.

F r i t zwrote:

It's always a bummer to lose a wall, but that one is no great loss, all things considered. Escalante has a couple of decent routes, but it isn't much further of a drive to get to the Creek, where there are exponentially more routes and better ones. I never understood why anyone except bored locals climbed at Escalante. The routes are short and sandbagged, the dirt road is tedious and the bugs are bad.

Not the point. We were asked for proof that bad stewardship closes climbing areas. This is an example of one such instance. 

Chad Millerwrote:

Not the point. We were asked for proof that bad stewardship closes climbing areas. This is an example of one such instance. 

I apologize. I'll do my best to ensure topical relevance in every MP thread from here on out. Together, as father and son, we can end this destructive thread drift and bring order to the galaxy.

You ‘aint my father. 

Careful now Fritz. The force is strong with this one.

Don't take that wrong Chad. I mean it as a compliment, and a weird nod to the father and son dynamic.

Chad Millerwrote:

Not the point. We were asked for proof that bad stewardship closes climbing areas. This is an example of one such instance. 

I was more specifically focusing on when has the rate of closed climb areas ever kept pace with new climbs. Yes areas close but new areas open at a rate 10-1 I would imagine.

Also do you think the slalom canoe forums are crying about how their sport is blowing up?

Trevor Taylorwrote:

I was more specifically focusing on when has the rate of closed climb areas ever kept pace with new climbs. Yes areas close but new areas open at a rate 10-1 I would imagine.

Also do you think the slalom canoe forums are crying about how their sport is blowing up?

We’ll find out if that ever happens.

B Pwrote:

We’ll find out if that ever happens.

Whitewater kayaking is a summer Olympic sport where they have to ride through gates going either up or downstream depending on the gate. I saw this years ago midday on a Tuesday and it was a blast to watch 

Chad Millerwrote:

You ‘aint my father. 

Clearly not, because if I were, you would have a sense of humor.

Over your head the joke is. 

James Jenwrote:

No, but I care about the sport of climbing.

Climbing, having gained the pedestal of Olympic competition is a sign of its growing prestige, recognition, and practice.

It is, moreover, popular showcase and exposure for the sport. Having more participation, money, and recognition in it will bring downstream gains for the casual, recreational climber.

I highly doubt that.

Stephen Szyszkiewiczwrote:

Whitewater kayaking is a summer Olympic sport where they have to ride through gates going either up or downstream depending on the gate. I saw this years ago midday on a Tuesday and it was a blast to watch 

What kind of canoe did you get?

Math Bertwrote:

The NYT did a big interactive feature on climbing for the Olympics, mostly focused on Ondra and how he's got to navigate his "weak" speed event to win overall.  This crowd probably won't learn a ton, but the graphics are cool and how often do you see "drop knee" and "heel hook" in the Grey Lady?  Also includes a blurb from Honnold saying "He's the best in the world and it's not particularly close".  Don't know how you can get around the paywall but it's worth your time if you can. 

https://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2021/sports/olympics/adam-ondra-climbing.html?smtyp=cur&smid=tw-nytimes

Not for nothing, but in the context of comp climbing Janja is so much more "the best"

Her first world cup season was 2015 and she has 47 podiums (podia?), with 30 golds - Ondra by comparison has been doing world cup since 2009 and has 35 podiums, with 21 golds

Chad Millerwrote:

You ‘aint my father. 

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