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Hardest Top Rope

AStezer · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 137

DG once mentioned a tr project at Ragged Rocks in Mill Bluff SP where he could do the whole route except for a small section. However someone else in the crew (Zschiesche perhaps?) could do that section but not others. Those guys were all sending 13+ back then so I bet that route is pretty hard by WI standards.

Neil Little · · Joshua Tree · Joined May 2016 · Points: 0

Well I have many full tr sends myself. Following the OP and pulling multiple x4’s at crux without even a quiver of my leg

almostrad · · BLC · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 14

Definitely the pink one in the corner 

Tradiban · · 951-527-7959 · Joined Jul 2020 · Points: 212
AStezer wrote:

DG once mentioned a tr project at Ragged Rocks in Mill Bluff SP where he could do the whole route except for a small section. However someone else in the crew (Zschiesche perhaps?) could do that section but not others. Those guys were all sending 13+ back then so I bet that route is pretty hard by WI standards.

Yes, I think I heard about that one. Z was climbing 14 when it was called 13!

Ben Horowitz · · Bishop, CA / Tokyo, JP · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 137

Tiers of Uncertainty in Bishop is probably up there, 5.14/+ TR up the big face of Grandma Peabody with a ~V12 move right near the top! FA Dan Beall 

caesar.salad · · earth · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 75
Ben Horowitz wrote:

Tiers of Uncertainty in Bishop is probably up there, 5.14/+ TR up the big face of Grandma Peabody with a ~V12 move right near the top! FA Dan Beall 

Holy shit i totally forgot about that line.

Tradiban · · 951-527-7959 · Joined Jul 2020 · Points: 212
Ben Horowitz wrote:

Tiers of Uncertainty in Bishop is probably up there, 5.14/+ TR up the big face of Grandma Peabody with a ~V12 move right near the top! FA Dan Beall 

What is that? Is it too tall to fail direct?

Ben Horowitz · · Bishop, CA / Tokyo, JP · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 137

Yeah, Too Tall to Fall branches off left to avoid the upper crux. 

Dylan Colon · · Eugene, OR · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 491
Tradiban wrote:

You could just hit the ignore button but I seek to convince you otherwise.

A top rope is "just practice" to some extent, but it offers a chance for a pure focus on the movement of climbing without the distraction of clipping or a potentially dangerous fall.

The hardest top rope would be a pinnacle of strength and purity.

This can be somewhat mitigated on overhanging terrain where the current cutting edge usually involves gigantic runouts and only bothering to clip at actually good stances. Pretty sure Megos was clipping like every 4th bolt on the upper headwall of Bibliographie by the time he was going for the send. In that scenario, the falls are huge but relatively safe and you just have to get used to it. All the other bolts are only there for working the moves. Even at lowly grades like 12+ or 13- I have started to learn the benefits of not bothering with mid-crux clips.

caesar.salad · · earth · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 75
Tradiban wrote:

What is that? Is it too tall to fail direct?

Yeah. Its crazy vert tech. I met Dan there once and he said it was one of his proudest sends that no one really knew about. 

Pnelson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 635

I can't believe nobody has mentioned Carderock yet!



Tradiban · · 951-527-7959 · Joined Jul 2020 · Points: 212
caesar.salad wrote:

Yeah. Its crazy vert tech. I met Dan there once and he said it was one of his proudest sends that no one really knew about. 

His proudest send is on TR?! Now that's saying something!

Tradiban · · 951-527-7959 · Joined Jul 2020 · Points: 212
Pnelson wrote:

I can't believe nobody has mentioned Carderock yet!



I believe we have a weiner!

Ben Horowitz · · Bishop, CA / Tokyo, JP · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 137
Tradiban wrote:

His proudest send is on TR?! Now that's saying something!

He talks a bit about it here: mojagear.com/climber-spotli…

WoodyW · · Alaska · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 70

Arcy Farcy at the buttress of cracks on a warm day.....

Fail Falling · · @failfalling - Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 916
Jason EL · · Almostsomewhere, AL · Joined Jan 2021 · Points: 0

The mention of Devil's Lake is interesting.  It's been decades since I climbed there, but if something was 5.12+ or 5.13, and leadable, seems like they were mostly protected by RPs/RURPs/etc.  And, not very well protected, for that matter.  It really was a place where the hardest climbs were, for practical purposes, TR only.

Neil Little · · Joshua Tree · Joined May 2016 · Points: 0

I’m saving my finest TR proj’s for my kids and me to do. It’s my dream to ingest some cbd/thc tincture while we each tr solo our own freshly bolted line at a crag I’ve yet to find. The bolts purely for directionals or aid. I’m hoping to find a solar powered high output Bluetooth speaker so we limit our impact 

Tradiban · · 951-527-7959 · Joined Jul 2020 · Points: 212
Danny Deckers · · on the road · Joined Mar 2019 · Points: 182

Certainly not the hardest, but an interesting contender: mountainproject.com/route/1…

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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