Hardest Top Rope
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DG once mentioned a tr project at Ragged Rocks in Mill Bluff SP where he could do the whole route except for a small section. However someone else in the crew (Zschiesche perhaps?) could do that section but not others. Those guys were all sending 13+ back then so I bet that route is pretty hard by WI standards. |
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Well I have many full tr sends myself. Following the OP and pulling multiple x4’s at crux without even a quiver of my leg |
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Definitely the pink one in the corner |
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AStezer wrote: Yes, I think I heard about that one. Z was climbing 14 when it was called 13! |
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Tiers of Uncertainty in Bishop is probably up there, 5.14/+ TR up the big face of Grandma Peabody with a ~V12 move right near the top! FA Dan Beall |
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Ben Horowitz wrote: Holy shit i totally forgot about that line. |
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Ben Horowitz wrote: What is that? Is it too tall to fail direct? |
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Yeah, Too Tall to Fall branches off left to avoid the upper crux. |
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Tradiban wrote: This can be somewhat mitigated on overhanging terrain where the current cutting edge usually involves gigantic runouts and only bothering to clip at actually good stances. Pretty sure Megos was clipping like every 4th bolt on the upper headwall of Bibliographie by the time he was going for the send. In that scenario, the falls are huge but relatively safe and you just have to get used to it. All the other bolts are only there for working the moves. Even at lowly grades like 12+ or 13- I have started to learn the benefits of not bothering with mid-crux clips. |
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Tradiban wrote: Yeah. Its crazy vert tech. I met Dan there once and he said it was one of his proudest sends that no one really knew about. |
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I can't believe nobody has mentioned Carderock yet! |
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caesar.salad wrote: His proudest send is on TR?! Now that's saying something! |
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Pnelson wrote: I believe we have a weiner! |
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Tradiban wrote: He talks a bit about it here: mojagear.com/climber-spotli… |
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Arcy Farcy at the buttress of cracks on a warm day..... |
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Skip to 23:06- 24:54 |
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The mention of Devil's Lake is interesting. It's been decades since I climbed there, but if something was 5.12+ or 5.13, and leadable, seems like they were mostly protected by RPs/RURPs/etc. And, not very well protected, for that matter. It really was a place where the hardest climbs were, for practical purposes, TR only. |
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I’m saving my finest TR proj’s for my kids and me to do. It’s my dream to ingest some cbd/thc tincture while we each tr solo our own freshly bolted line at a crag I’ve yet to find. The bolts purely for directionals or aid. I’m hoping to find a solar powered high output Bluetooth speaker so we limit our impact |
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Fail Falling wrote: I think you mean 33:06? |
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Certainly not the hardest, but an interesting contender: mountainproject.com/route/1… |