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Hardest Top Rope

Original Post
Tradiban · · 951-527-7959 · Joined Jul 2020 · Points: 212

What is the hardest TR?

Gumby King27 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2020 · Points: 0

Silence. No directional draws.  

Jesse Martin · · Charlotte, NC · Joined Feb 2020 · Points: 21
Gumby King27 wrote:

Silence. No directional draws.  

I think you misspelled Dawn Wall

Jeremiah White · · Colorado springs · Joined Feb 2021 · Points: 210

Nah it's my gym, makes silence look like a v2.

Trevor Taylor · · Seattle, WA · Joined Nov 2020 · Points: 0

The hardest commonly done top rope I would think is the fly in rumney.

Tradiban · · 951-527-7959 · Joined Jul 2020 · Points: 212
Trevor Taylor wrote:

The hardest commonly done top rope I would think is the fly in rumney.

Yes but it's been led, therefore no longer a top rope. What's the hardest top rope that has never been led?

John Reeve · · Durango, formely from TX · Joined Nov 2018 · Points: 15

Can you explain the joke?

The folks at my local crag have TR'd a lot of stuff over the years to decide if they want to bother bolting stuff... I'd assume that is a pretty common practice.  If so, then you;d think that there would have been some pretty hard stuff that wasn't interesting enough to bolt/clean/put anchors on/etc.

Why is that funny?

Tradiban · · 951-527-7959 · Joined Jul 2020 · Points: 212
John Reeve wrote:

Can you explain the joke?

The folks at my local crag have TR'd a lot of stuff over the years to decide if they want to bother bolting stuff... I'd assume that is a pretty common practice.  If so, then you;d think that there would have been some pretty hard stuff that wasn't interesting enough to bolt/clean/put anchors on/etc.

Why is that funny?

It's not a joke. What is the hardest route only ever done on top rope? I can think of a supposed 14A at Devil's Lake but I'm sure there's something harder out there.

Fail Falling · · @failfalling - Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 916
Tradiban wrote:

It's not a joke. What is the hardest route only ever done on top rope? I can think of a supposed 14A at Devil's Lake but I'm sure there's something harder out there.

Aren't you afraid that once it's determined, some crusher will get wind of it and then head out and bolt it? Won't this thread contribute to what you purport to be against?

Alexander Blum · · Livermore, CA · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 143

"The joke" is that this question has no value. What's the point in asking such a banal, boring question?

Q. What's the hardest route someone has climbed using only one foot? A. Don't care.

Q. Only using their thumbs? A. Still don't care

Q. What about only on top rope?! What an interesting question! ...

Mark Pilate · · MN · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 25
Alexander Blum wrote:

"The joke" is that this question has no value. What's the point in asking such a banal, boring question?

Q. What's the hardest route someone has climbed using only one foot? A. Don't care.

Q. Only using their thumbs? A. Still don't care

Q. What about only on top rope?! What an interesting question! ...

Or…maybe the joke is this question got your undies in a bunch so much that you had to post about how much you don’t care? 

Pierre de St Croix · · CT · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 0

Personally? The hardest TR is a traverse! It’s the same as leading in a sense! so, is it a TR?

Alexander Blum · · Livermore, CA · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 143
Mark Pilate wrote:

Or…maybe the joke is this question got your undies in a bunch so much that you had to post about how much you don’t care? 

Where in that post did I say I don't care what gets posted on these forums? I said it's a stupid, boorish question. Not the same thing. Tradiban pollutes the forums with inane bullshit and lowers the general quality of discourse - I do care about that.

Jim T · · Colorado · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 469
Jesse Martin wrote:

I think you misspelled Dawn Wall

Did you lead it free?

Fail Falling · · @failfalling - Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 916
Alexander Blum wrote:

Where in that post did I say I don't care what gets posted on these forums? I said it's a stupid, boorish question. Not the same thing. Tradiban pollutes the forums with inane bullshit and lowers the general quality of discourse - I do care about that.

Where in that post did the user say posting on these forums? The context of a post within a topic thread is always the topic of the thread, not the larger forum that hosts that topic thread unless specifically stated otherwise. As such, the point that the joke was to get you to post in the thread about how you don't care about the topic of the thread still stands. 

John Reeve · · Durango, formely from TX · Joined Nov 2018 · Points: 15
Tradiban wrote:

It's not a joke. What is the hardest route only ever done on top rope? I can think of a supposed 14A at Devil's Lake but I'm sure there's something harder out there.

Fair enough.  

But how does something get a YDS grade without being led?

To be clear, these are legit questions, I'm just easily confused and don't care if folks think I'm poorly informed :D

Fail Falling · · @failfalling - Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 916
John Reeve wrote:

Fair enough.  

But how does something get a YDS grade without being led?

To be clear, these are legit questions, I'm just easily confused and don't care if folks think I'm poorly informed :D

The YDS grade has nothing to do with whether a route is led, TRd, soloed, etc, it has to do with the technical difficulties and sustained nature of the moves on that route. 

It doesn't even mater if it's bouldered since the grades can be converted. The only styles of ascent that don't fit into the YDS scale would be ice climbing or aid climbing. 

Tradiban · · 951-527-7959 · Joined Jul 2020 · Points: 212
Alexander Blum wrote:

Where in that post did I say I don't care what gets posted on these forums? I said it's a stupid, boorish question. Not the same thing. Tradiban pollutes the forums with inane bullshit and lowers the general quality of discourse - I do care about that.

You could just hit the ignore button but I seek to convince you otherwise.

A top rope is "just practice" to some extent, but it offers a chance for a pure focus on the movement of climbing without the distraction of clipping or a potentially dangerous fall.

The hardest top rope would be a pinnacle of strength and purity.

caesar.salad · · earth · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 75

I've come to defend tradiban. I think this is an interesting question.

Connor Dobson · · Louisville, CO · Joined Dec 2017 · Points: 269
Tradiban wrote:

Yes but it's been led, therefore no longer a top rope. What's the hardest top rope that has never been led?

There's a 14b+? TR project at mickeys beach I think

Tradiban · · 951-527-7959 · Joined Jul 2020 · Points: 212
Connor Dobson wrote:

There's a 14b+? TR project at mickeys beach I think

Wow, cool. Never sent?

The Bounty Route at DL was supposedly sent by Jim M, aka Shoe Guy, aka Wayne Bob at 14a. The "bounty" is $1000 for the second ascent, he tried to goad Sharma into it. Jim said 14a (or maybe 15a!) but DL is very conditions dependent. It's so hard and slopey he claims that clipping would be impossible. How cool is that?!

Another cool thing about the hardest TR is that it can't be overhanging much, so it cant be steep climbing on decent holds, it has to be micro edges or slopers on gently overhanging or slab terrain, which would require a finesse not found on the hardest sport routes of the modern era.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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