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50m or 60m for East Buttress?

Original Post
RJNakata · · SoCal · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 460

In looking at the MP page on the Whitney East Buttress people have advocated for both 50 and 60m ropes.  Have you used a 50m?  Did it work for you?

I like my 50 and would love to use it...not into combining pitches.  Just a thought.

TIA

Lone Pine · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2014 · Points: 0

You’ll be fine with a 50m rope

BryanOC · · All over · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 5

they still have not emailed me my permit….  have they gotten back to you for yours?  

I know that there is a fire in the area and some permits are being canceled.  which is understandable….

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276
BryanOCwrote:

they still have not emailed me my permit….  have they gotten back to you for yours?  

I know that there is a fire in the area and some permits are being canceled.  which is understandable….

Did you "check-in," as required to get your permit?

Lone Pine · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2014 · Points: 0
BryanOCwrote:

they still have not emailed me my permit….  have they gotten back to you for yours?  

I know that there is a fire in the area and some permits are being canceled.  which is understandable….

They often wait until the last day before your permit date to email it to you, regardless of when you sent your permit request via email. If you call and get in touch with the office issuing your permit, they can email it to you right away

BryanOC · · All over · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 5
FrankPSwrote:

Did you "check-in," as required to get your permit?

yes, i followed their email check in instructions (did you watch the LNT video, etc).  

BryanOC · · All over · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 5
Lone Pinewrote:

They often wait until the last day before your permit date to email it to you, regardless of when you sent your permit request via email. If you call and get in touch with the office issuing your permit, they can email it to you right away

thank you!  I will give them a call!

Christian Hesch · · Arroyo Grande, CA · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 55

you did not state the date of your permit but one can reasonably assume that all permits are cancelled for the next several days, if not a week. 

Edit for RJ: I like to bring a 7.3mm 60, and it gives you the option of simuling full length or at 30m length.

RJNakata · · SoCal · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 460

Ok, I dont mind about the thread drift, it's important stuff.

Any others to chime in on the 50m for the East Buttress?

BryanOC · · All over · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 5

sorry to hijack….  

back on topic….  i have not done whitney yet, but i always like to have a 70m on me in case i gotta bail for whatever reason.  (weather, sprained ankle, etc) 

i did mt russell a few years ago (fishhook arete) and i brought my 70m, even though a 60m would have been ok.  for my peace of mind it was worth hauling the extra weight.

Alex S · · Bishop CA · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 804

check your spam folder for emails from recreation.gov.

i got one that infromed me all permits out of the whitney trail, north fork, and meysan lake were canceled thru the 27th and would be refunded.

i also got a reply to the email i sent stating that i watched the lNT video that infromed me of the cancelation as well.

RJNakata · · SoCal · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 460
BryanOCwrote:

sorry to hijack….  

back on topic….  i have not done whitney yet, but i always like to have a 70m on me in case i gotta bail for whatever reason.  (weather, sprained ankle, etc) 

i did mt russell a few years ago (fishhook arete) and i brought my 70m, even though a 60m would have been ok.  for my peace of mind it was worth hauling the extra weight.

Would folks with East Buttress experience please chime in on the original question...please.  

If you need to discuss permits please start a new thread, just askin.  

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

I don't think they had 50 meter ropes when the first ascent was done. You'll be fine with a 50.

Ackley The Improved · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2020 · Points: 0

45 meter double ropes (three people, two followed together)

One time bailed in snow storm - quick with two ropes and lots of old hexes to leave.

Alois Smrz · · Idyllwild, CA · Joined Dec 2019 · Points: 1,667

50 meter rope will be just fine. You don't need anything longer or heavier on East Buttress. BTW this route was done with 50 meter ropes since about the mid 70s (when 50 m ropes became widely available) and people didn't find anything lacking about it then. Just go and do it...

Kevin Mokracek · · Burbank · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 378

I have used a 70 on the EB the last few times I have done it.  I like it because I can stretch out the pitches or combine pitches.  Ive done it with a 50 and a 60 but it just seemed like I was stopping all the time or coming up short of better belays.   Weight is the only downside.

Travis Haussener · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2012 · Points: 65

IAD…. I’d go as low as possible 30-50m, the weight difference is gonna really matter when moving on the hike. Who cares if you have a few extra belays as long as you’re fine building a super fast 1-2 point anchor. If you’re doing multiple days yeah just bring the extra weight of a 60-70.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern California
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