New and Experienced Climbers Over 50 #16

Todd Berlier wrote:

super psyched i managed the FA on this bp this morning.  since it was going to be hot and i try not to be gone all day, i got up at 3:45am, made coffee and got on the road by 4. got to the boulder at about 6am just after sunrise and warmed up on a flash board and did it second try. i called it Slippery Slope Fallacy. i think its in the 6/7 range but its also a style of climbing im not very good at. either way it a beautiful problem in a gorgeous place.

Todd, you look so strong and precise on that boulder!  What a great video, and you did a great job!  Looks like you have been working out hard!!! 

@Lori - hope Tony is doing ok. 

Re: replacing bad bolts - it can be a somewhat complicated issue. Seems like every area has their own guidelines for this, and if in a national Park or wilderness area the use of power drills is generally not allowed. It’s not a simple task (much harder than simply placing a bolt) and if done incorrectly things can be made worse. Some areas require permits to replace so they can verify the expertise of the person doing the work and also so they can track what is being done and where.  One of our local areas keeps a list of people who don’t require permits to replace dangerous/bad hardware - it’s a county managed area though, not national park. I agree bad bolts need to be replaced, a couple of weeks for a permit is pretty fast turnaround. I think it took nearly a year of negotiation to use a power drill in RMNP for the rap stations on the Diamond (I could be mistaken, but I know it was a long process).

Jim and I spent a long day yesterday replacing bolts in Boulder Canyon with BCC. Our route was really steep and it took about an hour a bolt - but we were successful in re-using all the holes (rusted sleeve bolts). I am completely worked over today.

One thing every climber can do, if you aren’t already, is donate to ASCA (they provide replacement hardware), join the Access Fund, and support your local climbing organization if you have one.

I love how much you care about your area - we all need to be stewards and advocates for the places we climb!

Erika, what route did you replace the bolts on? Were others replacing bolts as well? My old stamping ground, so just curious.

wendy weisswrote:

Erika, what route did you replace the bolts on? Were others replacing bolts as well? My old stamping ground, so just curious.

It was a large BCC effort - I think we had 15 volunteers including the ground crew. Our route was the 11 to the right of Prince of Thieves (Sheriff’s Tariff ). The routes on the far right were done as well as some of the longer routes on Witches Tower. We targeting routes that had old shuts and plated steel. There will be a complete list of what we did compiled eventually…

edit to add: I guess I hadn’t said - we were working at Sherwood Forest and Witches

Todd Berlier wrote:

i also dialed in the beta a lot on this one over 3 to 4 days. i even went so far as to bring a ladder to cheat to each section. not my preferred style but its how i make it feel safe(r). this area is kinda remote without cell service. i do keep a spot tracker clipped to the crash pad just in case. 

Bro....

Todd Berlier wrote:

super psyched i managed the FA on this bp this morning.  since it was going to be hot and i try not to be gone all day, i got up at 3:45am, made coffee and got on the road by 4. got to the boulder at about 6am just after sunrise and warmed up on a flash board and did it second try. i called it Slippery Slope Fallacy. i think its in the 6/7 range but its also a style of climbing im not very good at. either way it a beautiful problem in a gorgeous place.

Pretty darn sweet.  A nice pure line.  I'm curious, how tall are you?  If you're like 6', I wonder if a shorty like me would be able to make use of that seam in the face for feet the whole way.

Congrats again - very pretty problem, nicely done.

GO

ErikaNWwrote:

It was a large BCC effort - I think we had 15 volunteers including the ground crew. Our route was the 11 to the right of Prince of Thieves (Sheriff’s Tariff ). The routes on the far right were done as well as some of the longer routes on Witches Tower. We targeting routes that had old shuts and plated steel. There will be a complete list of what we did compiled eventually…

edit to add: I guess I hadn’t said - we were working at Sherwood Forest and Witches

I did a few climbs at Sherwood Forest. Long ago.

I was out with some friends this morning to do some 5.6/7 routes and saw a famous climber.

Lori styling on the Echo traverse.

Brandt Allenwrote:

I was out with some friends this morning to do some 5.6/7 routes and saw a famous climber.

Lori styling on the Echo traverse.

That looks fun! Of course, if I tried it, I'd fall off into that single lonely bush.

Posted in the other Over 50 thread, but yah, she's stoked for the City!

Hard to believe they're the exact same rope! And yes, number one was washed several times per season. 

It's hot here. 

H.

I'm sorting climbing pics today.  I was real proud of this climb, Chalk Up Another One.  Not sure how my MIA bf Houser participated in this--maybe our one and only Jan can recall how the FA went, but it was a challenge with the slippery rock.  Was it originally up the arete?   A real memorable day.  It captures what I love about J Tree... there's not a lot of clutter.  I can clear my mind here. 

Meanwhile, perhaps there was a snicker this morning regarding rehearsing beta on routes?  And I realized, again... who the hell cares how we do what we do?  It's just a miracle that we do it at all.   This must be Future Games Wall.... and what a magnificent beauty!  However, to walk that short distance I rehearsed my walk back and forth until I knew I knew the path, anyone watching me from a distance would be wondering why this crazy woman is walking back and forth along this route... but even a supposed 'well worn' path looks like nothing when you turn around. 

I'm not gonna beat this dead horse too much more... but armed with inReach, Gaia, Earthmate, a map, compass etc... I STILL could not simply pinpoint and walk to this rock.  At least I found it, and I got this far, will go some further on next trip. I'd like to see that first  30 magical feet with my own eyes...  

Good to see Lori is still keeping the stoke!  Apparently I was rather difficult to be around untill we had our FA finished on sat......   I get a tad bit mission focused ;)   Steve, Yes our climbs are on Mt Hor  down low near the water  on the Lilly Slab. canoe approach is optimal but you can hike there by following the trail around the lake. stay on the low trail. It peters out right about even with the watermelon slab.  then its gets rather faint but its still there. we hiked it a few times last summer and fall when the lake was too rough to paddle. also  did some trail maintenance so its  pretty reasonable to follow. 

Lori, Chalk up another on did not originally go up the arete.  I lead most of the crux putting bolts in on lead and it went right up the middle.  It might be a little harder than when we put it up because it has gotten slipperier.  Dave and I did all the bolting on that route but others were involved belaying and climbing it once done.

Jan Mcwrote:

Lori, Chalk up another on did not originally go up the arete.  I lead most of the crux putting bolts in on lead and it went right up the middle.  It might be a little harder than when we put it up because it has gotten slipperier.  Dave and I did all the bolting on that route but others were involved belaying and climbing it once done.

Thank you, Jan.  That's how I saw it, too (right up the middle).  That route is now so slick I don't think it can be done that way.  But what a beautiful line, and really fun experience!

These routes mean a lot to me because, as a novice, it was lines like Loose Lady, Chalk up Another One and Run For Your Life that all drew me... eventually causing me to open a guide book and start to learn about FAs.  Now it's so interesting to climb a route and learn about who did the FA... I feel like I'm getting to know you Josh climbers in absentia.  So glad you are here to share.  

Carl Schneiderwrote:

Went out to Morialta for a climb Saturday and Sunday . This is from Saturday. A lot of chatting, some climbing... 

https://youtu.be/cipG11j5V8c

Nice! Does someone lead and set up the TR?

I like the breakthrough music! I detected some editing. What are you using for edits?

Nick Goldsmithwrote:

We finished our project saturday. An alternative 3rd pitch to our route Soul Whisperer

Nick, is this route public knowledge? How do we get there? The area looks super nice. [Edit: just saw your response that it's Mt Hor. Wow, looks amazing, my type of climb!]

Hi Nick, Am I correct in assuming that this is Mt. Hor on Lake Willoughby? If so, good to see it getting some attention.

This was from the day I climbed Run For Your Life.  Nelson and Zach set this up for me, and at the time I couldn't understand why Zach would choose to lead up the more difficult Bob's route, Runaway.  Now I understand that of the two, Runaway was less dangerous.  I felt REALLY bad when I realized what they had to go through to set up a top rope for me... I wouldn't have asked them to do this!  But Zach and Nelson later said they enjoyed it the opportunity to climb it and I enjoyed the opportunity to watch it be climbed!  

Maybe it was just the exhilaration, but I didn't find Run For Your Life to be all that difficult.  I would have greatly enjoyed the opportunity to climb it again, since the first lap was kind of a reconnaissance.    But weather and time prohibited.  There is just no way to appreciate the beauty of this route except from a distance...  

There's another climb there, maybe just left of Runaway, called Run From Your Wife.   

Kris,  that hasn't been redacted yet?

Nick Goldsmithwrote:

Kris,  that hasn't been redacted yet?

Ha…. MP can try to change names they find offensive but I don’t think JT gb authors are going to go along with the new names.
We know the climbs by the real names.