New and Experienced Climbers Over 50 #16

Old lady Hwrote:

Happy birthday, Tony! Remind your roomie it's in her hedonistic best interest to give you the gear you lust after, hmmmmmm??? Not that she would ever have specialized gear lusts, no, never.....

And then? Make really high quality, healthier, yummier, versions of restaurant stuff you like. After awhile, you'll like yours more than anyone else's.

Heresy to some, maybe, but I like white whole wheat flour for pretty much everything I bake, even pastry type stuff. It's not white flour, it's whole wheat ...milled from hard white winter wheat, instead of hard red. Spelt flour, other old wheats are great too. Now that I'm used to flour having flavors, regular white bread America stuff is, I dunno, kinda like the glop for paper mache, way back when?

Then, with a great pizza crust, you can plop half the stuff at the farmers market on top, seasonally, and....well. Num!! 

Best, Helen

Helen.  Tony said he would rather have his testicles cut off with a dull blade than try any newfangled pizzas.  And he didn't put it that nicely.     I'm getting him his Kitchen Aid today and leaving him alone.  

Bad enough he has to produce gluten free everything for me.  I offered to buy a gluten free pizza crust, pre-made... and I got THAT LOOK.  He is going to figure out a way to make a gluten free pizza crust that meets his approval.  Tony and his brother grew up in an Italian Restaurant, with a mother and grandmother who were great cooks AND saints... they had a full pot of 'gravy' on the stove every day... so I just figure if he wants to chef away in our kitchen, fine.  His brother is flying out in a month to stay with us, I can only imagine what the two of them will be up to.  They plan to cook together night and day.  

Also, his penchant for associating every event and girlfriend in his life with the corresponding car ("Oh, she was the '83 Olds").  All I knew was Volkswagen.  

Meanwhile, I'm looking forward to climbing... an activity that still totally bewilders Tony.  I have been awakening to the fact that a whole new array of routes is open to me now, once I have broken the 10 a-b barrier.  In a way, I'm glad to be doing this alone.  If I had a partner who climbed, I think I'd be continually dwarfed by him.  He'd be frustrated by my incompetence.  I'd probably quit.  This way I can come home, embellish my stories, bask in some glory and eat pasta and watch sumo-wrestling.    

Lori Milaswrote:

Helen.  Tony said he would rather have his testicles cut off with a dull blade than try any newfangled pizzas.  And he didn't put it that nicely.     I'm getting him his Kitchen Aid today and leaving him alone.  

Bad enough he has to produce gluten free everything for me.  I offered to buy a gluten free pizza crust, pre-made... and I got THAT LOOK.  He is going to figure out a way to make a gluten free pizza crust that meets his approval.  Tony and his brother grew up in an Italian Restaurant, with a mother and grandmother who were great cooks AND saints... they had a full pot of 'gravy' on the stove every day... so I just figure if he wants to chef away in our kitchen, fine.  His brother is flying out in a month to stay with us, I can only imagine what the two of them will be up to.  They plan to cook together night and day.  

Also, his penchant for associating every event and girlfriend in his life with the corresponding car ("Oh, she was the '83 Olds").  All I knew was Volkswagen.  

Meanwhile, I'm looking forward to climbing... an activity that still totally bewilders Tony.  I have been awakening to the fact that a whole new array of routes is open to me now, once I have broken the 10 a-b barrier.  In a way, I'm glad to be doing this alone.  If I had a partner who climbed, I think I'd be continually dwarfed by him.  He'd be frustrated by my incompetence.  I'd probably quit.  This way I can come home, embellish my stories, bask in some glory and eat pasta and watch sumo-wrestling.    

I'm with Tony (and happy birthday to him) on newfangled pizzas and newfangled food generally. Blueberry bagels!!!

Lori Milaswrote:

 It was suddenly hot.  I had left my water and stuff in the car.  Just a moment of panic while figuring it out.  

Just caught up with this.  PLEASE never go out without water.  No one wants you became another one of the Joshua Tree statistics.

Stonathon Olives wrote:

I only have half the requisite number of years to post here, so please forgive me. Just wanted to say I adore how wholesome this thread is. I don't know how much y'all read outside this thread, but it can be ugly. It's very enjoyable to see folks supporting each other and sharing good stories. More threads should be like this one. Thanks for the good reads.

Ha. You need to learn to read between the lines. Old folks have secret codes. You'll see when you get there.   

Regarding “new fangled” pizza. There is a Ligurian alternative called Farinata. It is absolutely delicious. It’s made with ceci beans. No wheat, and no hippies in sight. There are a lot of Italian folks who can’t eat wheat. It’s a thing.

phylp phylpwrote:

Just caught up with this.  PLEASE never go out without water.  No one wants you became another one of the Joshua Tree statistics.

Thanks Phylp.  I guess “New Rule”: never leave car without water.  This was literally a park and stroll 50 yards over to inspect a boulder. I just kept strolling.  It wasn’t supposed to be a hike.  It was 2 minutes back to the car, but that moment of disorientation was enough of a jolt.

After disavowing all GPS devices for roaming the Park, my daughter yesterday reminded me that I could use my Garmin, set my car as a waypoint and turn on tracking so I can always follow the breadcrumbs back safely.  It seemed like overkill but now maybe it should be part of my outings.  

What happened to rugged individualism and self-sufficiency?   

(Who let the new young guy in?  Trojan horse???   )

Lori Milaswrote:

\After disavowing all GPS devices for roaming the Park, my daughter yesterday reminded me that I could use my Garmin, set my car as a waypoint and turn on tracking so I can always follow the breadcrumbs back safely.  It seemed like overkill but now maybe it should be part of my outings.  

Probably obvious from my previous comments, but I totally disagree with this disavowal.  The naysayers have a way of focusing on extremes in GPS usage, when people rely totally on it to the exclusion of everything else and then get lost.  In reality, a rational combination of GPS, maps and compass and local knowledge makes the most sense, and in unfamiliar territory is better than any of the individual components.

Stonathon Olives wrote:

I only have half the requisite number of years to post here, so please forgive me. Just wanted to say I adore how wholesome this thread is. I don't know how much y'all read outside this thread, but it can be ugly. It's very enjoyable to see folks supporting each other and sharing good stories. More threads should be like this one. Thanks for the good reads.

Oh wow. What a lovely thing to say. I think the comment demonstrates how wholesome YOU are actually...

Got out climbing today after three weeks of no climbing. Had bad elbow bursitis. So I was a little tentative. Did a few laps of muesli, just a grade 16 I've done heaps of times and one lap of a 21 I've done heaps of times too to see how the elbow felt. I felt pain on a few moves on the 21 and it's a bit swollen again after being drained and getting a cortisone injection.  Had a great day though as there was a little crew and chatting and interacting is what I love. 

Video by Mark, my climbing buddy...

Oh, later on I did Muesli in my skate shoes. Interesting... But you peeps who climbed way back then used to climb in Dunlop Volleys (tennis shoes) hey? Coldish here, hence the climbing in a puffer jacket...

https://youtu.be/uju3vSCkFGI

phylp, I sent you a response, just letting you know in case it gets spam-collected.

Carl, what are you doing for PT with your elbow? That photo you posted a while back looked frightening. Glad to see you're getting out again.

rgoldwrote:

Probably obvious from my previous comments, but I totally disagree with this disavowal.  The naysayers have a way of focusing on extremes in GPS usage, when people rely totally on it to the exclusion of everything else and then get lost.  In reality, a rational combination of GPS, maps and compass and local knowledge makes the most sense, and in unfamiliar territory is better than any of the individual components.

rgold!  I'm so relieved you're here!  I was going to send you a message, since your back injury we have not heard much from you and I was worrying.  Maybe you are posting elsewhere and I just didn't see it.  I hope you are ok and recovering.  

Thanks for your comments.  While looking for solutions, navigating around here is clearly 'e'... 'all of the above', as you stated.  This is a baffling place and I should know this by now.  I have learned large swaths of area in the park... but when embarking out on a new venture I'm back to square one.  Much as I don't want to have to carry my inReach everywhere, it makes sense to do so.  Also, it's not just about finding my way around... but also for SOS in case of snake bites, stumbles, or running into others who are in trouble.  

It will be awhile before I am totally oriented here.  I can sit atop a new rock formation and gaze out over most of the Park, and be totally unable to identify anything.  Everything changes and shifts with direction and sun angle.  This is taking time, but well worth it.     

dragonswrote:

phylp, I sent you a response, just letting you know in case it gets spam-collected.

Carl, what are you doing for PT with your elbow? That photo you posted a while back looked frightening. Glad to see you're getting out again.

Hi Dragons!!! I’ve been thinking about you for awhile and hoping everything is ok! Been missing seeing you around here. 

Nice, Carl! It looks fun!! I've not climbed in a puffy. If that's needed, hands and feet get too cold. Bouldering, yeah, colder is okay, it's short, and I could get warmed up in between. 

It was 101° F here on Thursday, a new record for the date. Moderating back to more reasonable.

Good to have people back on here, and nice compliment from the gallery, too. ;-)

Lori Milaswrote:

rgold!  I'm so relieved you're here!  I was going to send you a message, since your back injury we have not heard much from you and I was worrying.  Maybe you are posting elsewhere and I just didn't see it.  I hope you are ok and recovering.  

Thanks for your comments.  While looking for solutions, navigating around here is clearly 'e'... 'all of the above', as you stated.  This is a baffling place and I should know this by now.  I have learned large swaths of area in the park... but when embarking out on a new venture I'm back to square one.  Much as I don't want to have to carry my inReach everywhere, it makes sense to do so.  Also, it's not just about finding my way around... but also for SOS in case of snake bites, stumbles, or running into others who are in trouble.  

It will be awhile before I am totally oriented here.  I can sit atop a new rock formation and gaze out over most of the Park, and be totally unable to identify anything.  Everything changes and shifts with direction and sun angle.  This is taking time, but well worth it.     

Thanks for the concern Lori,  I'm well over the rib injury, but that together with the pandemic has slowed my return to climbing.  Definitely doing some, but easing back in.  It's never been in my nature to report on personal achievements and failures, but that doesn't mean I'm inactive...

InReach is good for SOS, but for navigation and learning about an area, a cell phone with a spare battery and the superior maps of Gaia GPS is the way to go. Every time you get to a named formation you know, drop a waypoint so that, over time, you have a collection of known locations, which will then be identifiable from angles and perspectives that are new. Think about it as a labor of love surveying job. Stop thinking about the devices are merely for unlikely emergencies, and rather view them as aids to acquiring extensive local knowledge. You are a local and want to continually build a sophisticated and extensive understanding of the terrain, and good GPS software is one of the super-effective modern tools that could cut years off the learning process.

We don't head out to the crags with manila ropes and hobnailed boots claiming they somehow represent independence and self-sufficiency. Our harnesses are hung with gear and gadgets that weren't part of climbing when I started 64 years ago. Nobody seems to be saying that Grigris and sticky rubber represent some sort of abandonment of independence and self-sufficiency. Modern tools that work are and will always be a part of the scene, and there is no good reason to restrict ourselves to 19th-century navigation and orientation methods when the technology has moved way past them. It is true that the technology, all of it, activates a slew of new avenues for stupid and ignorant behavior from users who seem to have taken leave of what little common sense they might have had. But that doesn't mean that the technology itself can't be used in exceptionally effective ways.

rgoldwrote:

Thanks for the concern Lori,  I'm well over the rib injury, but that together with the pandemic has slowed my return to climbing.  Definitely doing some, but easing back in.  It's never been in my nature to report on personal achievements and failures, but that doesn't mean I'm inactive...

InReach is good for SOS, but for navigation and learning about an area, a cell phone with a spare battery and the superior maps of Gaia GPS is the way to go. Every time you get to a named formation you know, drop a waypoint so that, over time, you have a collection of known locations, which will then be identifiable from angles and perspectives that are new. Think about it as a labor of love surveying job. Stop thinking about the devices are merely for unlikely emergencies, and rather view them as aids to acquiring extensive local knowledge. You are a local and want to continually build a sophisticated and extensive understanding of the terrain, and good GPS software is one of the super-effective modern tools that could cut years off the learning process.

We don't head out to the crags with manila ropes and hobnailed boots claiming they somehow represent independence and self-sufficiency. Our harnesses are hung with gear and gadgets that weren't part of climbing when I started 64 years ago. Nobody seems to be saying that Grigris and sticky rubber represent some sort of abandonment of independence and self-sufficiency. Modern tools that work are and will always be a part of the scene, and there is no good reason to restrict ourselves to 19th-century navigation and orientation methods when the technology has moved way past them. It is true that the technology, all of it, activates a slew of new avenues for stupid and ignorant behavior from users who seem to have taken leave of what little common sense they might have had. But that doesn't mean that the technology itself can't be used in exceptionally effective ways.

Rgold I hope you don’t get tired of the thank yous. I can do more of this research on my own, but my question is about using Gaia to navigate when there is virtually no cell reception.  Senor recommended Gaia over a year ago.  What I have is Garmin inReach paired to Earthmate on my cell phone.  If the Garmin is on (via satellite ) I then have a Gaia-type map on my phone tracking my movements and waypoints etc.  plus there’s texting and that SOS if ever needed. 

The backup battery is such a good idea and I just haven’t bought one yet.  I run out of batteries all the time.  I’ll do that today. 

I guess I have to hunker down and study the differences between Gaia (seems to be everyone’s favorite) and my inReach/Earthmate.  I’ve gone through this gadget process enough times with diabetes devices... comparing, choosing one, and then making it my own.  It’s just a headache to start. 

Wouldn’t I love to have my own map of this wondrous place! 

ErikaNWwrote:

Hi Dragons!!! I’ve been thinking about you for awhile and hoping everything is ok! Been missing seeing you around here. 

Thanks Erika! Nice idea that a few have missed me. It turns out to be more profitable to work than to hang out on Internet forums. Who knew?

I'm in the Gunks for the month of June on a "working vacation" (oxymoron as that is). If anyone is in the neighborhood, and wants to get together or go for a climb, feel free to beep me and we can try to make it happen.

dragonswrote:

Thanks Erika! Nice idea that a few have missed me. It turns out to be more profitable to work than to hang out on Internet forums. Who knew?

I'm in the Gunks for the month of June on a "working vacation" (oxymoron as that is). If anyone is in the neighborhood, and wants to get together or go for a climb, feel free to beep me and we can try to make it happen.

Hey dragons! I was just thinking of you this morning!  Glad to see you back--it's been a long while!  Have fun in the Gunks, let us know how it goes if you have time.  

Lori Milaswrote:

Rgold I hope you don’t get tired of the thank yous. I can do more of this research on my own, but my question is about using Gaia to navigate when there is virtually no cell reception.  Senor recommended Gaia over a year ago.  What I have is Garmin inReach paired to Earthmate on my cell phone.  If the Garmin is on (via satellite ) I then have a Gaia-type map on my phone tracking my movements and waypoints etc.  plus there’s texting and that SOS if ever needed. 

The backup battery is such a good idea and I just haven’t bought one yet.  I run out of batteries all the time.  I’ll do that today. 

I guess I have to hunker down and study the differences between Gaia (seems to be everyone’s favorite) and my inReach/Earthmate.  I’ve gone through this gadget process enough times with diabetes devices... comparing, choosing one, and then making it my own.  It’s just a headache to start. 

Wouldn’t I love to have my own map of this wondrous place! 

You don't need cell reception.  You acquire the maps at home where, hopefully, you have wifi.  Then you select maps you will need and download them to your phone.  They're on the phone; no cell reception needed.  As for GPSing, it's based on satellites, not cell towers.  In fact, most people put their phones in airplane mode in the backcountry to save battery power.  (You don't need to take any calls anyway.)  Gaia can be quite helpful in your car too if you are trying to use back roads and there is no cell reception.

There is one issue with downloaded maps that is important.  When at home, put your phone in airplane mode and check that your downloaded map renders.  There have been occasional issues in which software bugs interfere with downloaded map rendering, so make sure all is well before you need the maps for real.

This is exactly how I use Gaia for maps in the Sierra where there also isn't any cell reception.  It works great and you can also just track your treks and then they get pushed up to the Gaia website and you can display them on your computer too.

Land Nav 101. When you're out walking somewhere, be sure to turn around and look at the view behind you once in a while. Otherwise, when you are at the end of your walk, and turn around, it will all be unfamiliar.