Problem with grade consensus - Paging Nick Wilder!

I've noticed two routes recently that gained an aid/boulder grade tacked onto the long-established YDS grade. Crack of Doom in Idaho now has a boulder grade. (I'm sure it's been soloed, but V4 and 80 feet don't often go together.) I also noticed that Shune's Buttress picked up a C1 designation, despite being a classic free climb. What gives? 

Seems like a situation where the one/two people who gave a boulder/aid rating climb happen to be the median grade.

People sometimes add a boulder grade to a route to emphasize that there is a distinct bouldery crux. Looking at the comments of Crack of Doom it seems like maybe that's what the V4 is supposed to designate. V4 on a 11c is weird though.

Let me clarify my question because it's not necessarily about these two routes. I get that Crack of Doom has a bouldery start and Shune's could be aided. 

I think there is a glitch in MP's grade system. In the past, you could only suggest a YDS grade or a V-scale grade depending on what the person who submitted the route selected. Now, you can click "More rating options" and add whatever you want. For example, I just graded Flyboys as "V-easy" and MP added my one stupid vote to the consensus. (I'll delete it later.) I think this is a poor design addition. One person shouldn't have the ability to attach a V-grade to The Nose. This also designates the route as a boulder, which will throw off the search function. For example, this dude seems to love adding V-grades to trad routes. By doing so, he's adding the "boulder" designation to these climbs. When searching V4s in Idaho, you will now find 100-foot trad climbs. MP should fix this, so one person can't alter the consensus so much. 

If I don’t see more collective outrage over this, I might give Half Dome a WI grade... 

IMO fixing this should be the realm of an area administrator, as at least in theory that's what they are there for. 

I was hoping for Nick to fix it site wide. 

I came across this a couple months ago but didn't realize that the climb would be sorted differently. I thought it only influenced how it was ticked (for example, if you try to tick Flyboys from Archibolts example above, you won't be able to tick it as Lead/Follow/etc for 18 pitches, but only as Send/Flash/etc for 18 laps). Not only that, but it will show up as a boulder in your Tick Breakdown page later too. I thought this was kind of weird, and I hope something can be done to fix this.

Michael Mwrote:

I came across this a couple months ago but didn't realize that the climb would be sorted differently. I thought it only influenced how it was ticked (for example, if you try to tick Flyboys from Archibolts example above, you won't be able to tick it as Lead/Follow/etc for 18 pitches, but only as Send/Flash/etc for 18 laps). Not only that, but it will show up as a boulder in your Tick Breakdown page later too. I thought this was kind of weird, and I hope something can be done to fix this.

Oh, you're right! Flyboys is now a boulder problem.

I'm flashing my Nick Signal, but it appears to be broken. 

bump?

Fucking onX

Michael Mwrote:

bump?

That wasn’t me! I even deleted my flyboys v-easy tick at a user request! 

That wasn’t me!

It's not a real screenshot, the actual page for Midnight Lightning remains unchanged. I just wanted to show that it was still possible to do this (without actually vandalizing MP) and maybe get a reply from whoever does software now (Nick? onX? Someone else?).

Edit: It appears someone has actually gone and added these ratings to the climb. It wasn't me, but you can usually tell who it was from the Opinion section.

Edit edit: Back to normal now

Michael Mwrote:

It's not a real screenshot, the actual page for Midnight Lightning remains unchanged. I just wanted to show that it was still possible to do this (without actually vandalizing MP) and maybe get a reply from whoever does software now (Nick? onX? Someone else?).

I changed the title to get his attention. 

Thanks for calling this out and for your patience. This is clearly an issue that needs to be addressed, so we'll get someone on it ASAP. 

Thanks everyone.  I think this is a side effect (bug...) of something I changed a year ago.  I no longer write code on the site, but I've explained the issue to my onX replacement and hopefully will be fixed and then cleaned up soon. If there are other routes that need cleaning up, list them here.

Nick Wilderwrote:

Thanks everyone.  I think this is a side effect (bug...) of something I changed a year ago.  I no longer write code on the site, but I've explained the issue to my onX replacement and hopefully will be fixed and then cleaned up soon. If there are other routes that need cleaning up, list them here.

So I can't list my WI ascents in jtree anymore?

I think there's a more general problem that some routes have a split consensus grade.

Is the Nose 5.9 C2 or 5.14a? Royal Arches 5.7 A0 or 5.10b? East Buttress of Middle Cathedral 5.9 A0 or 10c?

Should routes be listed at what they are "usually" climbed at? Or should a "reasonable" free grade take priority.

Moonlight Buttress has 2 separate route listings, but that doesn't seem ideal either, especially for less popular routes.

Austin Donisanwrote:

I think there's a more general problem that some routes have a split consensus grade.

Is the Nose 5.9 C2 or 5.14a? Royal Arches 5.7 A0 or 5.10b? East Buttress of Middle Cathedral 5.9 A0 or 10c?

Should routes be listed at what they are "usually" climbed at? Or should a "reasonable" free grade take priority.

Moonlight Buttress has 2 separate route listings, but that doesn't seem ideal either, especially for less popular routes.

Once a route goes free the aid grade is obsolete, aid is aid.

Austin Donisanwrote:

I think there's a more general problem that some routes have a split consensus grade.

Is the Nose 5.9 C2 or 5.14a? Royal Arches 5.7 A0 or 5.10b? East Buttress of Middle Cathedral 5.9 A0 or 10c?

Should routes be listed at what they are "usually" climbed at? Or should a "reasonable" free grade take priority.

Moonlight Buttress has 2 separate route listings, but that doesn't seem ideal either, especially for less popular routes.

IMO two route listings is the perfect situation. I would add them but I lack knowledge of the free routes, and it seems everyone who does is too lazy.