New and Experienced Climbers Over 50 #15

Lori. You are overthinking it. just eat healthy, stay away from booze and too much caffine and sugar and go climbing. on your climbing rest days hike. 

Nick Goldsmithwrote:

Lori. You are overthinking it. just eat healthy, stay away from booze and too much caffine and sugar and go climbing. on your climbing rest days hike. 

Hey Nick.  Thanks.  But if doing that was working... I wouldn't be looking for more.  What I am dealing with is pretty significant.  It will take some thought and doing... I'm sure I'll get through it.  

Lori Milaswrote:

Hey Mike... thank you for this rundown--this really helps!  

I'm still in a quandry about what information I need, and how to get it.  As Carl just said " if you have an issue, you want a solution". 

As a diabetic I already track a lot of information.  I am plugged in to a CGM (continuous glucose monitor) which feeds out real time blood sugar all day and night.  I use several other apps to give me actionable reports.  It helps a lot to see numbers.  Those numbers also loop to my insulin pump, which is starting to respond accordingly (newer technology).  I really enjoy one particular 7-day report that lets me see whether what I'm doing/eating is improving things and all that translates to health, for me.   

So, cumbersome as gadgets are... they can also really help.  In this case, the CGM is a total game changer and it also allows me much more freedom on the rock and almost non-diabetic numbers in my daily life.

Last year I bought the Apple Watch series 5... because it would give me all those diabetic numbers on the watch face.  No digging around in my pockets for the other gadgets.  However, I haven't really used it much.  It does SO MUCH... but basically is a glorified iPhone.  I really didn't need to play music from my watch, or have it ringing with incoming calls.  I don't care about 'steps'. 

I got frustrated trying to find any kind of listed workout close to climbing... I guess there is now a 'Redpoint' option.  Even if I counted every step and every vertical step... what does that tell me?  

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Aside from my CGM, I don't need all the fancy bells and whistles.  What I'm looking for right now is a way to track some big variables to come up with some solutions to feeling better and performing more consistently when climbing.  Many days I have no idea why I am so wiped out, exhausted... other days feeling great with energy to spare.   Knowledge is power, imo.  Re. Whoop... that 'strain' score was very interesting to me... if it would work.  The recover score could offer information the following day.  I'm always wondering, after an 8 hour day out climbing and hiking... did I push that too far?  Did I overwork, underwork?  Did I hydrate enough?  And did I get so amped I didn't really sleep?   

The monthly fee is now $25 (discount)... really a small price if it would give me what I need for 6 months. If there is actionable information I can learn from...  can't imagine needing it forever. 

Before I left Sacramento, I talked to my doc (who happened to be a Sport Medicine doc) about training.  He said "If you REALLY want to know how you are training, I'll send you to our Sport Lab at the Kings stadium, and we'll test everything, your VOX, your aerobic and anaerobic measurements, heartrates.... all that."    I did not do that. 

What about the garmin?  I have not checked that out. 

I really appreciate the input here... thanks for taking the time. 

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Has anyone climbed out at Oyster Bar?  I saw a route called Shock Therapy (5.10c) that looks super fun.  Another 'not this year' route for me, most likely.     but I'd like to hike out there and browse around.  (Photo by Phil Caballero)

After 6 months with Whoop, my only takeaway was something I already knew - a good nights sleep really matters for recovery but maybe you will have better luck :)

When I had the Garmin I liked having the step count as I found it a little prod to get in a few extra walks/work breaks.  I also liked that it synced with cronometer app on iPhone that I use to track food. 

I haven't used either in at least 6 months and don't feel like I am missing anything.

Carl, have a great time! 

Lori, you might try keeping a sleep log. It can make a big difference. 

Kevin Mokracekwrote:

I’ll have to check out that new podcast.

Several years ago a buddy and I were doing a car to car climb of the East Buttress of Whitney.  We were feeling pretty good about ourselves until I looked over at Keeler Needle.  I saw a guy cruising up the Harding Route and kept waiting for him to stop and belay up his second, he never did, he kept going and disappeared over the top.   We finished our climb with plenty of sunlight and we’re headed down the Ebersbacher Ledges when I looked behind us and saw Peter Croft running down the trail towards us.  We stopped and chatted a minute.  He had climbed the E Face of Whitney then down climbed it, went over and did the Harding Route on Keeler and then climbed the East Buttress of Whitney to round out a casual day.   So much for feeling good about ourselves lol. 

Hah. Just to remind us of what is POSSIBLE. Any of those routes car to car in a day is a big exercise. The fact that Peter did THREE big Whitney routes, and downclimbed the E. Face instead of coming down the MR, is insane. 

Lori Milaswrote:

I’m feeling gratitude and joy returning.  We climbed on the left side of Dairy Queen today. The best part of climbing in the Hemingway area is to turn around on the way back and see where you just were. It’s magnificent.

Today we climbed Leap Erickson (10b).  Everything was there. Moves hard but not impossible. Fun every inch.  On the last route I was so worn out it felt like the last 5 minutes of Rocky knocking it out with Apollo Creed.  Just punch drunk but determined.  “Yo Adrienne its rough up there in the ring!”   

Leap Erickson is a really fun slab. And you're right, just when you think you're about to fail it reveals some small weakness that lets you keep going. Did you also climb Leap Year Flake just to the right? That's a fun climb, too. 

Lori Milaswrote:

That's lovely Carl.  I wonder if we can find some pics of Mt. Arapiles so we can see where you're at.  You go on trips... it's hard to keep them all straight.  Where were you last time?  

I hope you have a wonderful time, a memorable time.  And a great birthday if we don't hear from you before then. (But I hope we do). We will need some reports.

Thanks Lori. Last trip was the same place, Mount Arapalis. Before that it was Moonarie... Mt Arapalis is in the state of. Victoria and Moonarie is in the North of my own state, South Australia. You would like Moonarie, it's pretty much desert and very isolated... 

Have a great time, and happy birthday, Carl!

Nice bit of writing, too. Thanks!

H.

I feel like I've died and gone to heaven.  John sent me this YouTube video... what a great video of Joshua Tree history.  John always delivers the goods, and this fills in so many blanks.  THANK YOU, JOHN!  What a wonderful friend you have been.   

https://www.youtube.com/watch?app=desktop&v=pp7OFOQsz8U

It's been a glorious day here.  I'm still getting used to walking outside and seeing... desert.  Wide open spaces.  Silence.  

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After long deliberation I decided to try Whoop for a free month.  Nothing to lose.  Maybe something to gain.  

I have been in a 'what's it gonna take' mood ... what's it gonna take to be strong and healthy, to give climbing my best effort for the next few years.  Talking about it here has reminded me that some have it a lot easier, but mostly, many do NOT have it easier.  I know there are folks fighting real battles as we speak.  

I had a video appointment with my diabetes doc this morning, and that reminded me that I have a 'condition' I cannot ignore.  We spent an hour or more tinkering with my numbers, my pump settings, reviewing highs and lows.  Nothing in this pump was designed for what she called 'extreme exercise', so she had to innovate all new metrics.  She reminded me to always carry 'a boatload of sugar' wherever I go... and a medication to reverse an emergency low blood sugar.  It just adds a layer to think about on top of climbing.  But overall she's thrilled... 

I also, after long deliberation, engaged the services of a Type 1 Diabetic Athlete Registered Dietician dude.  His thing is working with diabetic athletes and he is one himself. I spent last week just documenting every morsel of food I ate on My Fitness Pal.  I learned to take pictures of every barcode or plate of food and it all immediately goes into the database.  I already knew my diet was clean, but the RD had more to say.  Somehow my protein requirements have to hit 110 grams.  That's a lot more than I have been eating. There are a few supplements, zinc, D, and herbs rhodiola and ashwaghanda.  There's a protein shake he recommends.  And we'll be working together week after week, as long as i want.  It brings together all the things I've been trying to learn... being an older athlete with a 'condition'.  

Also... more sockeye is on the list.  (not my favorite).  

In case anyone else struggles with trying to keep up with things that emerge with aging: I can so relate.  Where is the girl who used to stick her thumb out, hop in a car, and just GO... anywhere, with an old pair of blue jeans and nothing in my pockets (but maybe a joint)?  It's funny the work it takes now to be carefree.    

Tony tells me stories of his fast days in So. Chicago.  He lost himself along the way and now it's taking some work for him to reclaim that guy.  Youthful carefreeness is not effortless.    

Carl. have an awesome and healthy birthday!  

 Lorie. stop worrying and over analyzing everything. Buy a sprinter and get a regular partner, go on a 3 month road trip. everything will fix itself.  You have the same partner every day so there is no stress about meeting up with folks and worrying if it will work out and if you will be compatible. Just the same routine of wakeing up somewhere deep and off the grid. 

Eat climb,read a book sleep do big hikes on non climbing days Don't have too many plans, be flexible. If the Big send doesn't look good or feel right today do something else. Maybe say Fck it and bug out to a different area in a different state and try something completely different make very loose plans to possibly come back to that big unsent proj but don't sweat it if it doesn't happen. Enjoy the sunsets

and the sunrises

Be lazy and do the tourist thing 

 do your Yoga every day no matter were you are. 

Adopt a pet

Climb some more, 

in lots of different places

  just keep that up on a very loose and relaxed schedule for several months. your only news and internet  will be  laundry days.

you will be in the best shape of your life and have the best sleep.   I know that not everyone's situation allows this but certainly for me this has been the only real way to reset my internal clock and get my mental and physical health back on track. 

That's awesome Nick. Such a great share. Life is beautiful and you are living it!

Nick Goldsmithwrote:

 NEVER buy a new exercise machine. Pleanty of barely used and long neglected machines on FB marketplace ;)  

I hear you on that, Nick! Back when I lived in Pennsylvania, we bought furniture from someone who had finished his university schooling and was returning home oversees. Part of the lot was a rather elaborate weight setup. It sat in our basement, and though we meant to use it we didn't. I used to joke that we had the buffest spiders in town...

Old lady Hwrote:

Have a great time, and happy birthday, Carl!

Nice bit of writing, too. Thanks!

H.

Oh thanks... 

I am IN my loose mode already. The acronym is classic.... 

Exercise machines? The best one you will ever have is your own body.

But there's a learning curve to learning body weight exercises where you progress, avoiding injury and such. Finding this isn't easy, and usually comes with a good teacher; Yoga, Pilates, Tai Chi... These practices are complimentary, one to the next. It's not a matter of which is better. If you poke around it will be obvious to you which you prefer.

I will say this. If you go to see a Yoga teacher make it clear up front that you are not looking for hyper mobility. You want to start out working in your comfortable range of motion and develop strength to support that. If that teacher can't relate, move on.

And of course it's an established fact that resistance training builds bone density. 

If you want a machine get a good rower. Crossfit gyms are scaling down these days. They use Aerodyne, the best. You might be able to pick one up cheap right now.

 

Lori. I don't mean to marginalize in any way what you are doing.  I admire it and your stoke.  I also understand that your partner situation is not ideal for being a full time road tripping climber.  just posting what has worked the best for me to get my sleep rhythms, fitness and climbing ability's where they should be.  When I road trip it takes me about 4 days to calm down and start to relax. I then stay in a state of relaxed bliss untill about a week before it all ends. Then the all the details and obligations of fitting back into the normal world and the getting home on time..  start creeping back into my brain.. It  does seem sometimes that you might be trying too hard which does add pressure which is adverse to good sleep... 

I found an old video made in 1967 of Royal Robbins and Yvon Chouinard  climbing the West Face of the Sentinel. It is almost 30 minutes long.

I had to laugh at the water bottles that they had. We still have 2 of the quart size ones. They are retired now,

Hope you enjoy it,

https://www.youtube.com/watch?app=desktop&v=pp7OFOQsz8U

John

That took me to a very nice video by Cole Gibson about J-T's history.

Cole does great work.   

Carlos Soria has summited 11 of the 14 highest peaks in the world since turning 60 - 

https://www.bbc.com/news/world-europe-55846897?fbclid=IwAR0EMRMj4fh4DvXFbrMXJTt01saRilOmE1ykqpBgKrtTdsFoebCd_-vvbSk