Name that Route, Vol IV.

There are 3 previous volumes of this thread.
The rules are:
1) A picture is posted by someone who can check back within 24 hours to make sure to answer.
2) People try to identify the route for a day & the OP watches for a correct answer.
3) The first person to name it correctly (affirmed by the poster) posts another picture.
4) If more than a day has posted, a presumption of identification is good enough.

Some additional suggestions:
1) Of course nobody can stop anybody from cheating with google match or checking someone's tick list, but that's not really any fun, is it?
2) If you can't check pack to post upor answer to guesses, then don't hold up the game. Please check back in.
3) It's supposed to be fun, not impossible. Some obscure pic of a route behind the local garbage dump isn't going to be any fun because nobody can guess it.
4) Make sure that the lighting, angle, and scope of your picture is sufficient to be clear and distinct.

So let's get started:

Dark Angel, Arches.

Those bolts still mostly nails sticking out? Did it late '90s I think, before I started replacing bolts...sketch!

SO...photo. This one is kind of obscure...the climber is on the upper right:

Edit...guess I should read the rules better, Tony didn't confirm (but that's Dark Angel), and more importantly this one is definitely in violation of mega-obscurity...let me go look for something more reasonable. Hint on this one while I go find something else: the crag is not on MP at all, and it's in California. 

Edit: I'll leave that first one here so as not to annoy anyone, but here's my real (more fun & reasonable) entry:

Rites of Spring, Pine Creek.

Well, you got me stumped on that first one Greg. I was thinking Elephants Graveyard, but I’m pretty sure there isn’t anything that cool there, and the backdrop doesn’t quite match. 

Bob, you're up for posting a photo!

Yep, definitely a bit obscure - that's Upper Poison Dome near Sherman Pass, page 64/65 in the Domelands guidebook. The route I'm leading is a really fun corner, think it was 5.9+ or so, and there's a chain anchor at 100' I think? Or might even need 2 ropes? I don't remember if there was an old magazine article on that, or how we found routes, maybe someone told us or maybe we were just exploring. No idea on route names there, but it's excellent rock. You hike on motorcycle trails for a bit on the approach.

Edit: thanks to Brian digging up the old article, that route is Poison Book 5.9, route 13 in the topo he posted below.

Greg Barneswrote:

Bob, you're up for posting a photo!

Yep, definitely a bit obscure - that's Upper Poison Dome near Sherman Pass, page 64/65 in the Domelands guidebook. The route I'm leading is a really fun corner, think it was 5.9+ or so, and there's a chain anchor at 100' I think? Or might even need 2 ropes? I don't remember if there was an old magazine article on that, or how we found routes, maybe someone told us or maybe we were just exploring. No idea on route names there, but it's excellent rock. You hike on motorcycle trails for a bit on the approach.

Mark Robinson and Will Gadd did an R&I article on that crag about 15 years ago. Pretty good climbing there. That old Domelands Guide can get you to some cool places, Church Dome and Bart Dome being among my faves. It's a hard book to get these days. For those not familiar, Chockstone Press published a trio of southern Sierra guides back around 1992; a Needles guide, one for Sequoia/Kings Canyon, and the Domelands guide to which Greg refers. All have been out of print for some time, as second editions were never done. Greg Vernon and Sally Moser were the principle authors, with Patrick Paul as a significant contributor to the Needles book.

If you're interested in climbing in these areas, and you come across a copy of the Domelands book, buy it. A new Kings/Sequoia book is in the works by Vitaly Muyshenko (sp?) and Roger Putnam. I've seen bits of this book, and can vouch for the author's depth of knowledge of the area. It's gonna be good, and very comprehensive, including the terrific back-country climbing found there. But in all likelihood there will never be another Domelands guide. The other, of the three, is obsolete.

That makes sense, I thought it was an R&I article, but I couldn't find it with a quick search. We were there just after the article came out, which explains why I have the photo at all - another party took it, we ran into them at the crag - bet two parties at that crag doesn't happen these days!

I hope it's not cheating to show such a small piece of the route, but the thing is so damn popular that somebody should recognize it.

Bob Harringtonwrote:

I hope it's not cheating to show such a small piece of the route, but the thing is so damn popular that somebody should recognize it.

Red Rock: Birdland

That's funny! At the request of the FA, I omitted that route from the Supertopo guidebook, since he didn't want it to get too crowded! Didn't exactly work out the way he thought it would...

To you Matt...

Sorry for thread drift but here's some shots of that poison dome article. Climbing no. 178

Oh well, look at that!  I’d almost forgotten climbing magazine used to be a viable source of information.

Would love to read that article. 

I have to say, I kind of miss the days when you looked forward to each issue of the climbing magazines, to learn of some new, exotic-feeling mini-adventure you could take. When guidebooks ruled, and you had to find/buy them in an actual shop. Of course that's still possible, but with social media and MP, where you can find exhaustive info (and spray) about almost anything, anytime, it seems harder and more contrived... kind of analogous to the "you don't have to clip the bolt" discussion. I guess that's the price of convenience, and I'm sure earlier generations have their own versions. Just a bit of nostalgia, I suppose.

There is still one climbing rag I still feel is relevant. California Climber Magazine. Of course, if your not a California resident or travel to climb there often, it probably isn’t something you’d be interested in. If you haven’t checked it out, it showcases the best of California, often focusing on the best obscure places to climb in the state. And it’s free, but I’d encourage anyone who can to spring the 30 bucks for the print version to do so and support their cause. 

Bob Harringtonwrote:

To you Matt...

Okay, here we go! Probably too obvious but I can't help it - have to honor one of the greats. There likely multiple routes visible but you know the one I'm talking about:

Naked Edge?

^^^ Too easy!

Brian in SLCwrote:

Naked Edge?

The one and only! 

Well done disciple of the Wasatch, I pass the torch to thee...

JCMwrote:

^^^ Too easy!

Kind of knew it would be but couldn't help myself. I'll be trying to re-win the drivers seat and will shoot for a more difficult (but achievable) classic.

Gotta be...here's a gimme:

Brian in SLCwrote:

Gotta be...here's a gimme:

Beckey-Chouinard, in the Bugs? Or something in the Wind Rivers? Tetons? How many guesses do you get?