New and Experienced Climbers Over 50 #13

Kevinmurray wrote:

I have tasted many jarred sauces and that is why the should stay in a jar. Read the ingredients and how many can you pronounce.

dragonswrote:

Here's Lemon Butter Dill from McCormick (sorry Dallas):

Absolutely no offense is taken.  I typically avoid jar sauces, but I do like this one.  I have often thought about making my own pasta sauce, if I only had a kitchen and access to canning material and space to store it.  We do make our own taco seasoning.  Typically manufactured products have too much sugar or salt in it for our tastes.  I am not educated enough to know what all that other stuff is.  I just know that unprocessed food is better for me. 

Dallas, glad to hear Barb is getting her mojo back! Mine appears infrequently lol.

  Yes, but it does peak it's little mojo head out once in a while, so just keep doing what you do, your doing all right.  I think that might make a good song..... 

Oldtradguywrote:

My 7 year old grandson shot his first deer today. It was a 7 pointer

John

I love seeing my children pass on to their kids the things that I grew up with.  Congrats on the deer...

Oldtradguywrote:

Lori

I will be having venison steaks when I get back home this weekend. My 7 year old grandson shot his first deer today. It was a 7 pointer

John

Wow!  That's awesome!  That puppy definitely weighs more than he does!  What'd it come in at?  165?

And at this rate he'll bag quite the rack when he is 12!!!

I got to have an afternoon with Bob Gaines yesterday and it’s hard to overstate my gratitude for that time. I had been verging on some real fatigue and depression from too much work and separation from friends and family—but I also couldn’t quite remember what exactly I love about climbing.  

Well, for one, being with great skilled company (that would be Bob) . And the delight of perfect weather and a beautiful sunset... a place atop a route to gaze out over miles of desert and joshua trees. Desert breezes. The colors. Like good medicine I could feel some life returning.

We were on Turtle Rock. It’s quite a beautiful rock with so many features... routes between 5.5-5.9 (for me). Inside edging, outside edging, crimps and side-pulls... lots of things to learn on. Above the bolted routes is another whole play area of good rock that appears to be undeveloped—kind of hard to let that go! I just wanted to keep climbing UP.   

As much as I’ve climbed here I have really wanted to start over... now that I’m kind of over the initial shock of exposure, starting to know my strengths, and beginning to know all that I don’t know. Perhaps in larger groups I would always be aware of my limits in comparison... this year I just want to challenge me with me.  Chimneys, off widths, cracks, slab...  while understanding the mechanics of route set up and being a competent partner.  I hope to keep a tight journal. 

My son-in-law took this picture of my grandson and sent it to me... I had to laugh, the little shit picked the spot in front of one of the routes I long to climb. I feel like it’s a way of knowing my family won’t forget me and knows what it is I’m after here.  Meant a lot!

Tony admired the deer. I guess he did quite a bit of hunting as a kid in Illinois and Wisconsin. Today he’s making pasta—his first foray into the kitchen since his surgery.  I had my first experience with someone sweating over my absence last night. I told him I’d be home around 6. It was 7:30 when I got home and he was on the edge of his seat, cellphone in hand... not looking so good. “I don’t ever want to get that phone call, Lori.” Macho as that makes me feel, I’m hardly Alex Honnold out free-soloing. “Tony, I was with Bob!” which is now shorthand for “I’m completely safe.”   

Oldtradguywrote:

Lori

I will be having venison steaks when I get back home this weekend. My 7 year old grandson shot his first deer today. It was a 7 pointer

John

In my violent, manic youth I used to go rabbit shooting with an AK47, SKS, 12 gauge shotguns and all manner of things. Whilst I found I could slaughter quite gleefully with utter abandon I've grown up a bit now and tend to gravitate to talking to and and cuddling animals rather than making holes in them. But each to their own. 

Last night I went to the bouldering gym and felt podgy, frail, flabby and slow. However, I found Secret #2 to climbing success.  I'm not sure if I mentioned it here but Secret #1 is to set up a camera before you do a climb you can't climb. Then climb the climb that you allegedly can't climb. 

Secret #2 is to TELL someone you can't climb the climb (or do the move). Then go ahead and demonstrate to them how you can't do the move or climb the climb (by doing the move or climbing the climb). 

It worked well last night. I got a problem I couldn't do (after telling someone I couldn't do it) first try. Then I gave a hard roof problem a go. I had problems linking one problem (a V2/V3) to its link up (which made it a V3/V4). I gave it a few goes, tried a few guys' beta, decided on my OWN beta but also utilised a very effective toe hook (I don't do enough toe hooks) and got very close to the end. Slightly disappointed to not actually finish it (got to the third last hold) but the progress was significant.

Carl Schneiderwrote:

In my violent, manic youth I used to go rabbit shooting with an AK47, SKS, 12 gauge shotguns and all manner of things. Whilst I found I could slaughter quite gleefully with utter abandon I've grown up a bit now and tend to gravitate to talking to and and cuddling animals rather than making holes in them. But each to their own. 

Whoever said your grandmother fed you vegemite as a child (Guy?) is probably not true. I believe you were born of a feral wallaby deep in the Bush, and tended to by Aboriginal tribes and dingos through adolescence and ate various grasses and herbs.  This probably explains your tenderness towards all God’s little creatures.  

How is everyone doing today?

For my morning hike I decided to go visit some of the routes I want to climb this year and take an up-close look.  What a difference a few months makes in perspective!  Perhaps my ability to scope out a route is getting better?  I can see some paths to success now. 

Over at Billabong/Shovling Cole... it just finally looks doable.  I thought the lower half approach was the chimney Bat Crack but apparently it’s not. I could manage this first half.

The upper part also looks better, viewed up close. I can see some tiny feet, though just barely. Will have to get my game head on to tackle this one. I think it will go.  

 
Over to Chalk Up Another One... following the bolts with my eyes, I think I’ll do ok on it. I got pretty intrigued by the blank unbolted area to the left. Why is there nothing there—no established routes?  Also there’s a deep tall grove that looks part chimney part off  width and maybe fun to work on? 

Finally Judas on Old Woman... everything on Old Woman is special to me. I have stared at the start, stuck my hands in the crack, tried to imagine getting in a fast solid hand jam and pull up and over the bulge... I don’t think I’m strong enough. I don’t see good feet to launch with, either.  So what to do here? 

I would not be too proud to ask for help if it could just get me above the first couple moves.  But then again, Brandt is super strong. He could do it.  

There is a flake to the right... could it be a side pull? There’s lots of good rock to the left if I could create my own hybrid workaround.  This one may not go this season. 

What an absolute treat to be able to just hike around and dream for my morning outing.  It's like, what page of the Sears Catalogue do I want to open today?  Amazing,amazing gifts in this Park. 

"Brandt is super strong."

Clearly you have me confused with someone else.

Brandt Allenwrote:

"Brandt is super strong."

Clearly you have me confused with someone else.

Oh, I have the right guy, all right.  I KNOW you could hoist yourself up on this one... and I think we should do it. It's just such a beautiful line.   I'll belay.  You climb.    

EDIT:  There's a pretty nice boulder at the base of the route.  I think (but Bob could better say) that a rope could be setup at the top of Toe Jam???  There might be other bolts up there... of course, you might want to lead it.  I guess I'm always looking for the top rope possibilities.  

The first time I tried Judas I stood at the base and rubbed a large wound into the back of my hand trying to get a good jam, then left defeated. Since then I've successfully climbed it a couple of times, after being convinced that part of the deal is to move up on less-than-secure jams at the start. It can be TR'd from the Toe Jam anchor, that is, the gear anchor, not the bolts used to rap off. It would be fun to flail on it again sometime.

 I mentioned to Tony that perhaps we should take a casual 120m bike ride (up 14k feet) for 16 hours... a little spin.    How in the world do these guys do this?  I guess Mountain biking is now the thing that goes with climbing?  My daughter is suddenly into it too... 

Lori, that is a fairly hard core endurance ride.  

The elevation gain is not that much given the 120 miles, but that is a long time in the saddle for a Mt. Bike ride, at elevation. 

So Carl..... sounds like you were just killing rabbits for fun. A 12g, a AK??? Nothing would be left to eat. The last thing I killed for “fun” was a robin, I was 10, I got lucky with a rock. Afterwards I cried for hours. My personal belief is to only kill what you’re going to eat.
But to each their own.

“Judas” - Boy o boy that brings back memory’s. My first 5.10, my partners, John Bachars first 5.10 and Bulwinkle’s first 5.10.... we had an Epic! Johnny placed first piece. Bulwinkle went up next - fell and pulled the gear and decks hard! So John points at me - “your next“. I didn’t fall and for one brief moment in time I was better than John!!! That lasted till John went to the crossroads and the rest is history.

Lori- it’s good that you are regaining your enthusiasm. One thing I’ll add though- looking at a climb from the ground and making up your mind how hard it will be is the wrong thinking. Some look dead EZ and then they kick your butt, others appear fearsome but the hidden secrets are found when your up close and personal.

Halloween is coming up I hope to join the party and do some Josh climbing - it’s always fun.

Fingers crossed 

Guy Keeseewrote:

“Judas” - Boy o boy that brings back memory’s. My first 5.10, my partners, John Bachars first 5.10 and Bulwinkle’s first 5.10.... we had an Epic! Johnny placed first piece. Bulwinkle went up next - fell and pulled the gear and decks hard! So John points at me - “your next“. I didn’t fall and for one brief moment in time I was better than John!!! That lasted till John went to the crossroads and the rest is history.

Lori- it’s good that you are regaining your enthusiasm. One thing I’ll add though- looking at a climb from the ground and making up your mind how hard it will be is the wrong thinking. Some look dead EZ and then they kick your butt, others appear fearsome but the hidden secrets are found when your up close and personal.

Halloween is coming up I hope to join the party and do some Josh climbing - it’s always fun.

Fingers crossed 

Oh, Guy... I just can't say it enough... I'm having such a blast--and it is so fun having you guys along. In fact, I'm kind of worried that this is my retreat into senility.  After years of hard work, I'm making up little games to play every day in the Park while adults are at work, or taking cruises, or whatever it is they do.  

I hope you are able to get out by Halloween... my fingers are crossed for you!  

I have the privilege of experiencing Joshua Tree as though I was the first explorer with this long summer and not a soul in the Park.  I discovered Judas all on my own.  I saw this line from across the campground, and wandered over to explore it.  In my pretend world, no one has ever touched this thing before.  But then, of course... it has history.  What a great story you shared!     

To walk around with Randy's great guidebook is wonderful!  To check in on MP to understand and identify these routes is also great.  But I'm learning the most when I head out alone to some area and play on it all by myself.  Then come back and see what it was. 

Bob totally takes the wind out of my sails when I tell him about some new area I've discovered, and it turns out that not only was it discovered 50 years ago, it's been climbed 1000 times.  And he has stories to go with it.      

We had this discussion on Monday.  Apparently there are many routes that were put up back in the 70's and 80's but never made it into the guidebooks.  I asked if that means we can just erase those and have a do-over? Apparently, that is not ok.      So, I guess I just have to keep hunting.  

Yesterday I finally dragged Tony to the Park with me, I told him I REALLY wanted to show him one of my projects. I want him to be happy for me if that day ever comes when I climb it.  He has a pretty good eye, actually.  I wanted to show him a chimney I discovered (I have named it "The Flake").   I explained that this is a thing you climb... but first you have to figure out which way to face.  And then you sort of shinny on up.  Totally intrigued... this Chicago boy, but he continues to say "WHY?".

This Alex Honnold bike ride totally has me bummed.  I want to ask a serious question: how do you (we) get to that level of fitness?  Forget 120 miles.  I'd accept 12 miles.  Maybe if Tommy and Alex swung by and we could all go riding together I might be willing to try harder.  I'm guessing the answer to my question is to start slow and easy.  To climb up at Tahquitz, to navigate better around here... to be able to take on more physical fun, it seems grabbing my bike and heading out would be a start.    

EDIT:  A question about The Flake.  I thought the actual route was up the face of that entire slab.  Apparently it hugs the flake... duh.  What about the face?  

wendy weisswrote:

Then you don't have Hellmann's Mayo, Heinz Ketchup, or Grey Poupon Mustard in your fridge. (I guess there are purer, more organic versions of all available.) My only point is (and I'm not accusing you of this, Dragons) that I hate when people get all superior and preachy about food choices.

BTW, Lori, while I never make beef liver, I have eaten some that's pretty good. Onions definitely and bacon would be welcome too. But I think the real secret is not overcooking it (same as with fish), which turns it into shoe leather.

Hey Wendy,

I'm not taking what you say personally. If my message sounded superior and preachy to anyone, then I'm sorry, that was certainly not my intent! I didn't take Kevin's post that way, either, though. He was saying how he feels about food. I agree with him, but that doesn't mean I'm looking down at anyone who eats a different way. "You do you", as they say.

Are we not allowed to discuss feelings about food? People do get kind of passionate about what they eat. I would hope we could agree to disagree on this reasonably safe topic, and discuss differences without getting bent out of shape.

For the record, we have no Hellman's, Heinz, or Grey Poupon in our fridge (at the moment we have no mustard at all, but when we do, it is generally foofy organic stuff). We are kind of "foodies" and yeah we get the organic stuff where you can recognize the ingredients. No sugar in our ketchup. We're not foodie enough to make our own mayo or ketchup, though  

Dallas Rwrote:

Absolutely no offense is taken.  I typically avoid jar sauces, but I do like this one.  I have often thought about making my own pasta sauce, if I only had a kitchen and access to canning material and space to store it.  We do make our own taco seasoning.  Typically manufactured products have too much sugar or salt in it for our tastes.  I am not educated enough to know what all that other stuff is.  I just know that unprocessed food is better for me. 

  Yes, but it does peak it's little mojo head out once in a while, so just keep doing what you do, your doing all right.  I think that might make a good song..... 

Dallas, I'm not a chemist so I don't know what the other stuff is, either   

I think the one thing that looks off-putting about RV/van life is the lack of a reasonable sized kitchen, and iffy access to fresh food.

dragonswrote:

Dallas,  lack of a reasonable sized kitchen, and iffy access to fresh food.

It's real interesting to see the regional differences in food availability. Some of that is historical ethnicity and some is regional food production .  i.e hand made brats in regions were Germans originally settled, better Cajun food in the south. Better Salmon in the PNW.  etc. 

I would like to have a full size oven, but other than that our little kitchen works pretty good. 

Dallas Rwrote:

It's real interesting to see the regional differences in food availability. Some of that is historical ethnicity and some is regional food production .  i.e hand made brats in regions were Germans originally settled, better Cajun food in the south. Better Salmon in the PNW.  etc. 

I would like to have a full size oven, but other than that our little kitchen works pretty good. 

During the many trips to Joshua Tree that I stayed in a motel with only a small microwave it became a fun challenge to create a feast out of whatever tiny cans of stuff and frozen packages I could find at the local market. Those were some memorable meals!

I’m sure you guys make a celebration wherever you are and enjoy the local offerings.  Here Tony has been threatening to find or create a chuckwalla recipe. As we speak he is on his way to Walmart to get some large dog food kibbles to lure some roadrunners onto our front yard. I don’t know if he wants to make friends or cook them. These happen to be my favorite bird. 

Lori Milaswrote:

During the many trips to Joshua Tree that I stayed in a motel with only a small microwave it became a fun challenge to create a feast out of whatever tiny cans of stuff and frozen packages I could find at the local market. Those were some memorable meals!

I’m sure you guys make a celebration wherever you are and enjoy the local offerings.  Here Tony has been threatening to find or create a chuckwalla recipe. As we speak he is on his way to Walmart to get some large dog food kibbles to lure some roadrunners onto our front yard. I don’t know if he wants to make friends or cook them. These happen to be my favorite bird. 

Wile E. Tony will never catch that Roadrunner!

BEEP BEEP.