New and Experienced Climbers Over 50 #12

Old lady Hwrote:

Your nuts, dear. Can't wait to meet!! ;-)

Uh, my nuts, or, you're nuts?

I'm a two legged gimp, arthritis both knees, and probably ankles too, although they don't complain yet. Knees, I work hard, and it's paying off.

I use the poles, or not, as it seems reasonable. When I don't, it's because I am specifically considering the approaches as training, just like doing laps in a stairwell (although that's been out lately).

City, has some scrambly bits here and there, but great rock to walk on. Here, we have trails for part of it, but most of the approaches involve BIG talus. My son can literally run up and down the stuff, I am sitting down and scootching off, going down, hunting hand and footholds crawling up.

Packs, my 32 and 40whatever are both Patagonia cragsmith. Fully open up clamshells. Can be stuffed just short of exploding, yet keep their shape. That really mattered when I took the 32 as carry-on. I went in the overhead easily, but could have gone under the seat, if I had just the one, in all but the smallest airliners.

Best, H.

Cosmiccragsman AKA Dwainwrote: Uh, my nuts, or, you're nuts?

Oh dear. Honesty prevails...take it anyway you wish, sir! ;-)

Why are you zinced up? Window washing on a glacier??

Guy Keeseewrote:

Erika- I couldn’t help myself. Forgive me please. I don’t know about climbing in CO. but the bushwhacking I and my friends do is pretty hard- not AZ hard, but hard. (Those boys use-Ice hockey face masks for protection!)
The perma-gumby joke is something we toss around In our little fraternity of Kern River climbers. The first time your in the lead, in the cow bush or manzanita and 3 friends are all pushing you (the battering ram) through a thicket, you understand why nothing goes outside the pack. - it will snag, it will get lost.
One of the best pack tricks I have ever seen was when Herb L. shows up with a tiny pack - 25 L.
we have this big, big pile of FA gear to bring. He putts one battery and 6 hangers in his pack and declares “I’m full- you two take the rest”.
Herb is one smart cookie!!! 

Seriously - no worries! I can with pride, add carrying shoes on pack to the list of things that makes me a perma-gumby: I wear a helmet sport climbing and toproping, have a dedicated sling as a PAS, and.... usually rap to clean a sport route (except for when I don't)! :) 

Re: bushwhacking, I have never needed a hockey face mask for an approach/descent - nor do I wish to! In Colorado bushwhacking could mean fighting through taller than me chokecherry bushes in Penitente Canyon, getting lost in a sea of talus/boulder field, or scrambling through dead fall. I've climbed in Red Rock - manzanita is no joke, have only hit J Tree in December and did more bouldering/squeezing through slots than dealing with brush. I agree getting stuff hung up on bushes and limbs is a PITA, and I have taken my shoes off my pack in those scenarios. Also when it's raining so they don't get wet. Stick clips also suck for getting caught on things. As do backpack coiled ropes on descents.

Maybe, as in all things climbing, there isn't a single 'right' answer? I don't really know what Lori might be getting up to. It seemed she was asking about going out alone and needing to carry everything in a single pack (including rope and rack). I guess my assumption (maybe wrong) was that she wouldn't be pushing through manzanita or bushwacking to the extent that shoes on pack would pose an issue. 

It's all good.
And Lori... best advice here: Be like Herb!

Edit to add - more advice for Lori: get something with a side-zip not just top-loading - you will be so glad you did!!!

Old lady Hwrote: I'm a two legged gimp, arthritis both knees, and probably ankles too, although they don't complain yet. Knees, I work hard, and it's paying off.

I use the poles, or not, as it seems reasonable. When I don't, it's because I am specifically considering the approaches as training, just like doing laps in a stairwell (although that's been out lately).

City, has some scrambly bits here and there, but great rock to walk on. Here, we have trails for part of it, but most of the approaches involve BIG talus. My son can literally run up and down the stuff, I am sitting down and scootching off, going down, hunting hand and footholds crawling up.

Packs, my 32 and 40whatever are both Patagonia cragsmith. Fully open up clamshells. Can be stuffed just short of exploding, yet keep their shape. That really mattered when I took the 32 as carry-on. I went in the overhead easily, but could have gone under the seat, if I had just the one, in all but the smallest airliners.

Best, H.

I use a staff with 5.10 rubber on the foot. Way more sturdier than a pole, and great for boulder hopping. It acts as a 3rd leg.

Cosmiccragsman AKA Dwainwrote: I use a staff with 5.10 rubber on the foot. Way more sturdier than a pole, and great for boulder hopping. It acts as a 3rd leg.

Nice! My partner liked my painters pole stick clip as a hiking staff...until an unfortunate mishap on my last trip. "Sticky" is being permanently retired to the landfill. Don't ask. 

Here's that 32 clamshell pack. The full zip is what sold it, when I saw it at my crag one day. The owner graciously let me try it on, too!

Tent, sleeping bag, pad, pillow, thing to inflate the pad, and all my climbing stuff except the helmet. It went in a book bag type pack with my clothes and such, as my "purse".

H.

Lori

I will add my 2 cents. 35-40 L back pack should be ideal for you. 50 L is very large. Remember that the larger the back pack, the heavier it will be.

If you are going to lead climb, you will have a partner. You always split the gear amongst yourselves. You do not want to carry the rope and all the gear, water, food, headlamp, small first aid kit and knife, clothes, etc. Jean and I split the gear all the time. Since I outweigh her about 55-60 pounds, I carry more of the weight.

As others have stated, get a comfortable back pack and load it up with your stuff. Walk around with it on. See if you can take it for a test walk outside of the store for about 30 minutes or so to get the real feel of what it feels like on your back.

I also always(unless it is raining) have my shoes on the outside of the pack with a locking carabiner. My feet always sweat even in the cold. I want my shoes to air out and not stink so much. Jean told me one pair of shoes that I had smelled like stale Doritos.

I have had the straps of my back pack catch on branches in the past. I will then put my shoes on the inside of my pack.

John

Lori Milaswrote:

Or you could write a poem about it.   

(Video would be nice)

I once fucking had, 
A very large nice climbing bag,
In to it I placed a rack, 
A water bottle, quick draws, a hat,
Some beer (just in case), harness (to go on my waist)
And a chalk bag, rope, car keys on a loop held in place. Etc etc

We finally got a chance to go to Seneca Rocks for a couple of days . It was not as crowded with climbers as I thought it would be. There were more hikers than climbers.

Jean and I did a couple of easy classic climbs that we have done in the past. We wanted to get our lead climbing heads back. Also, the hikes up the hill take a lot of energy out of us. It was very warm out, in the mid 80s every day.

Picture of me hiking on the bridge on the way to the rocks.

Since it was only the 2 of us climbing, we do not take pictures of us climbing. Jean did a chimney climb so I could easily take a picture while belaying her.

Sunset from the main parking lot.

For people who have not been to Seneca Rocks, it is a hike up the hill to get to the climbs. For not lead climbing for a while, things came back together after placing a couple of pieces of gear. Next week, Jean wants to go to a sport climbing area that is less than 2 hours away instead of 6 hours.

John

love Seneca! we call that hike the Stairmaster :) did you guys get to the summit? 

Oldtradguywrote: We finally got a chance to go to Seneca Rocks for a couple of days . It was not as crowded with climbers as I thought it would be. There were more hikers than climbers.

Jean and I did a couple of easy classic climbs that we have done in the past. We wanted to get our lead climbing heads back. Also, the hikes up the hill take a lot of energy out of us. It was very warm out, in the mid 80s every day.

Picture of me hiking on the bridge on the way to the rocks.

Since it was only the 2 of us climbing, we do not take pictures of us climbing. Jean did a chimney climb so I could easily take a picture while belaying her.

Sunset from the main parking lot.

For people who have not been to Seneca Rocks, it is a hike up the hill to get to the climbs. For not lead climbing for a while, things came back together after placing a couple of pieces of gear. Next week, Jean wants to go to a sport climbing area that is less than 2 hours away instead of 6 hours.

John

I love the two of you, John!  What a great pair... and your pictures are always great.    

It's pretty cool to get pictures of something ELSE (besides my desert).  Just beautiful scenery, and rock I cannot imagine.  And more green stuff!  

I'm taking Guy's advice to heart and working up a one-year plan to learn the craft a bit better, and to 'be all that I can be'--whatever that may mean for a 66 yo non-athlete.     I haven't officially started the year yet, but I want to mark the time and honor it.  (there can be lots of years, but THIS year was going to be more of a structured time with a beginning, middle and end.)

I am running through a guide book, and wondering where to begin (again).  Even though I've already climbed a lot, I'd like to make a fresh start with an eye towards technique, ease, and strength. It's a little confusing because I have been challenged on some 5.6 climbs  SW Corner was fun--still a bit hard for me, but recall some higher graded routes as easy.  Double Dip looks fun.  I'd like to keep much better notes.  Fine-tune.  Build on the gains.

I also note that some of the routes have difficult approaches, such as All Booked Up.  That's ok with me, but maybe not with a partner.  

I would like to spend days on chimneys and cracks.  (weeks)  Also, outside of Gunsmoke, there have to be some strength-building face climbs.   (?)

Meanwhile, I am spending my mornings here alone playing outside, building anchors, rappelling off short stuff, and working on the scrambling thing before it gets too warm.  

I have the Garmin inReach set up now... still not sure I would be able to text full messages, but I did send Tony a text saying I was being eaten by a chuckwalla, and he got it.  So, victory!   

Thank you, Helen, for your suggestion on exercises.  Perfecto. 

So... I'm getting organized, and open to suggestions for the one-year-plan.   I assume I'll do some leading along the way.    
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This COVID thing is not looking good, and I would not be surprised if the climbing gyms closed again.  Please, let's all stay healthy and avoid getting sick with this virus.  Outdoors may be the best bet for a long time to come.  
 
PS. I did go to Nomad's yesterday, and bought a new pack, thank you for all the advice, (and poetry).  Frustrating but understandable that we did our transaction through a partially open door, with two masks, traffic zinging by, and her bringing a pack or two outside to me.  No chance to browse, or fit anything.  And that's the way we roll right now... it will have to do.  

Lori Milaswrote: This COVID thing is not looking good, and I would not be surprised if the climbing gyms closed again.  Please, let's all stay healthy and avoid getting sick with this virus.  Outdoors may be the best bet for a long time to come.  
 
PS. I did go to Nomad's yesterday, and bought a new pack, thank you for all the advice, (and poetry).  Frustrating but understandable that we did our transaction through a partially open door, with two masks, traffic zinging by, and her bringing a pack or two outside to me.  No chance to browse, or fit anything.  And that's the way we roll right now... it will have to do.  

What kind of pack did you get?  Show off the new rig!

Good for you Lori. Study the GB, if you want I have Randys excellent “Josh West”..... you’re welcome to borrow it. Just look at the climbs sorted by ratings, pick the most stars and read about the approach. Pretty simple
I recommend you go and Climb “Fote Hog” a fine 5.6 that’s just a short walk. You’re lucky you can go midweek and try the best the place has to offer
So what pack did you get? 

Nick Goldsmithwrote: love Seneca! we call that hike the Stairmaster :) did you guys get to the summit? 

Nick

We did go to the summit. The Stairmaster seems longer and harder than I remember. It is not the age, it is the mileage. Tuesday we did 3 climbs hiked back to our van and had lunch and a cold beer. Later that afternoon did another hike to the top. Logged in about 6 miles. Wednesday we were super tired and sore. Did only a half day of climbing in the early morning before the heat came. Then had our 6 hour ride back home.

We will try to climb locally tomorrow morning just doing TRing the new project overhang and 2 other climbs. Jean wants to go to Birdsboro Tuesday to try some sport climbs. It looks like it will be in the 90s the next week or so. Need to climb very early in the shade.

John

Oldtradguywrote:

Nick

We did go to the summit. The Stairmaster seems longer and harder than I remember. It is not the age, it is the mileage. Tuesday we did 3 climbs hiked back to our van and had lunch and a cold beer. Later that afternoon did another hike to the top. Logged in about 6 miles. Wednesday we were super tired and sore. Did only a half day of climbing in the early morning before the heat came. Then had our 6 hour ride back home.

We will try to climb locally tomorrow morning just doing TRing the new project overhang and 2 other climbs. Jean wants to go to Birdsboro Tuesday to try some sport climbs. It looks like it will be in the 90s the next week or so. Need to climb very early in the shade.

John

We should get together for climbing at Bboro or Safe Harbor after all this virus stuff is under control.  Stover is a bit of a pain for me to get to on weekdays due to Blue Route and I-76 mess (I'm in Newark, DE).

Old Lady H;
Are the Campsite spaces still reserved for CoR in Sept?
I still want to go if CoR is open then! I also plan to self Quarantine for 2 weeks before then to
make sure I'm safe to climb with other climbers.
I sure hope the gathering happens so I can meet and climb with you.

Cosmiccragsman AKA Dwainwrote: Old Lady H;
Are the Campsite spaces still reserved for CoR in Sept?
I still want to go if CoR is open then! I also plan to self Quarantine for 2 weeks before then to
make sure I'm safe to climb with other climbers.
I sure hope the gathering happens so I can meet and climb with you.

Yup! The group site, for the weekday stretch, and the entire stretch for campsite 1-4. I'm on an email notice for the other days for the group site. If those two weekends open up, I'll nab it. We'll have the whole place up there! I'll be there so long as I'm ambulatory and camping doesn't close.

I really hope it works out, too!

Best, Helen

Old lady Hwrote:

Yup! The group site, for the weekday stretch, and the entire stretch for campsite 1-4. I'm on an email notice for the other days for the group site. If those two weekends open up, I'll nab it. We'll have the whole place up there! I'll be there so long as I'm ambulatory and camping doesn't close.

I really hope it works out, too!

Best, Helen

You are one of the people I really look forward to climbing with.
I'll be sure to bring my Tie-Dye, and any GEAR we might need!

Well here it is. (Deuter 50l backpack).  This is a short rope, I don’t know how a long one will fit.  It does open up from the side and top... we’ll see how it goes!  There’s still water, sugar, lunch and medical stuff to consider.  I need a Sherpa!!