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New and Experienced Climbers Over 50 #12

Greg Opland · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2001 · Points: 191
Carl Schneiderwrote:

Fair enough. I'm referring to Australian first aid. Maybe it's different for the different species and hence venom? I never considered treatment may be different for different species. 

"...
There is currently strong consensus that this technique should not be promulgated or taught in areas where non-neurotoxic snakebite predominates. Thus, in North American Crotalinae snakebite..." 

No worries. I hadn't really thought much about it in a lot of years and your post about compression bandaging got me curious.
More information is always good, especially beforehand.

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 349
ErikaNWwrote: Clip your shoes to the outside of your pack. You can coil your rope and put it across the top rather than inside (most climbing packs have a strap specifically for that). Best yet, get a partner when you’re heading out and split carrying rope/rack! 

If you do this, in California at least, you’re going to loose your shoes when you push through the brush. And your cord is going to get you stuck to a branch- most likely when your jumping down from something.
Lori- take all the stuff you could ever need and go down to Nomads (great to have a REAL climbing shop in your town) have the good workers fitt you with a suitable pack. All items fit inside. It’s a sure sign of perma-gumby to have loose items hanging all over your pack (no-offence ErikaNW) and getting you stuck. Make sure to get something that fits your bod correctly- not as simple as it my seem- and is durable cause of where you live and climb.
And I’m thinking packs- a good trick is to get a beefy thick cotton or canvas bag, used for shopping. Put your rack in that (the cams) it will add extra protection and keep the sharp bits from poking holes in your pack.
And I never worry about snakes.... they know your coming and don’t wish to eat you. Now Carl needs to worry- Australia is home to all sorts of poisonous critters- some still unknown!

One last thing- A gun is the only way to have a chance at protecting yourself from a surprise attack from human or other animal

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276
Guy Keeseewrote:

If you do this, in California at least, you’re going to loose your shoes when you push through the brush. And your cord is going to get you stuck to a branch- most likely when your jumping down from something.
Lori- take all the stuff you could ever need and go down to Nomads (great to have a REAL climbing shop in your town) have the good workers fitt you with a suitable pack. All items fit inside. It’s a sure sign of perma-gumby to have loose items hanging all over your pack (no-offence ErikaNW) and getting you stuck. Make sure to get something that fits your bod correctly- not as simple as it my seem- and is durable cause of where you live and climb.
And I’m thinking packs- a good trick is to get a beefy thick cotton or canvas bag, used for shopping. Put your rack in that (the cams) it will add extra protection and keep the sharp bits from poking holes in your pack.
And I never worry about snakes.... they know your coming and don’t wish to eat you. Now Carl needs to worry- Australia is home to all sorts of poisonous critters- some still unknown!

One last thing- A gun is the only way to have a chance at protecting yourself from a surprise attack from human or other animal

So true, everything should go inside the pack. Sometimes, if I want to climb with a pack (and I'm not coming back to the base of the climb), I will carry the rope on the outside (so I can have a smaller pack to climb with). If there is bushwhacking, the rope will surely snag. 

But shoes, chalkbag, everything possible should go inside the pack.

One benefit of carrying your shoes inside the pack is we won't read a "lost shoes" post from you.

Lori Milas · · Joshua Tree, CA · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 250
FrankPSwrote:

So true, everything should go inside the pack. Sometimes, if I want to climb with a pack (and I'm not coming back to the base of the climb), I will carry the rope on the outside (so I can have a smaller pack to climb with). If there is bushwhacking, the rope will surely snag. 

But shoes, chalkbag, everything possible should go inside the pack.

One benefit of carrying your shoes inside the pack is we won't read a "lost shoes" post from you.

Man I love you guys!  Sorry if that sounds gushy but it’s true.  I’m just incredibly grateful. 

Honestly I’m grateful for this time alone out on the rock learning on my own dime, my own time, without anyone having to wait, get frustrated or irritated. I can do stuff over and over until I’m comfortable and then move on.  I set up my little challenge for the day, go to it, and take note of what’s missing this time.

Today it was bees.  I was so busy listening for rattles I failed to pay attention to the growing hum until I was right on top of it. A large hive/swarm in a crack I was planning on using for a hand jam.  Note to self to bring along a towel to wipe off sweat they seem to love.

Guy. I will go to nomads today and see if they’ll let me in and help me select and fit a backpack. Excellent idea.  I had done this earlier at REI but didn’t understand that the backpack I got was great for hiking not carrying climbing gear.

Look who is visiting again!  The pitter patter of little rat paws under the hood.  What did they have for dinner last night? Which wires got chewed this time?  



Lori Milas · · Joshua Tree, CA · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 250

A general fitness topic.  I have noticed how much I avoid certain movements Where I’m weaker and favor others where I’m strong—but it’s a liability in climbing. Today descending Cyclops, all that was really required was to be able to step/hop down boulders and shift weight from one leg to the other and not waver or lose balance.  

I’ll bet this is an “old” thing.    Hopping along on downward sloping surfaces and maintaining balance... there’s probably an exercise for this, right?  

And high-stepping/squatting.  I go to lengths (like Helen) to avoid it.  It’s helpful to be able to ascend rocks!    

ErikaNW · · Golden, CO · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 410
Guy Keeseewrote:

If you do this, in California at least, you’re going to loose your shoes when you push through the brush. And your cord is going to get you stuck to a branch- most likely when your jumping down from something.
Lori- take all the stuff you could ever need and go down to Nomads (great to have a REAL climbing shop in your town) have the good workers fitt you with a suitable pack. All items fit inside. It’s a sure sign of perma-gumby to have loose items hanging all over your pack (no-offence ErikaNW) and getting you stuck. Make sure to get something that fits your bod correctly- not as simple as it my seem- and is durable cause of where you live and climb.
And I’m thinking packs- a good trick is to get a beefy thick cotton or canvas bag, used for shopping. Put your rack in that (the cams) it will add extra protection and keep the sharp bits from poking holes in your pack.
And I never worry about snakes.... they know your coming and don’t wish to eat you. Now Carl needs to worry- Australia is home to all sorts of poisonous critters- some still unknown!

One last thing- A gun is the only way to have a chance at protecting yourself from a surprise attack from human or other animal

Well, I guess I am a perma-gumby - but my shoes never stink, I bushwack a'plenty and have never lost a shoe (lucky maybe?), so... Guess you just need a larger pack Lori! You definitely don't want to give the appearance of being a gumby - remember, you are being judged by the community at all times.

*no offense taken Guy, but really?

Old lady H · · Boise, ID · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 1,375

Actually, Helen doesn't avoid those high steps, I just know they aren't gonna go....yet.

So you need to work that! One of the PT exercises I got, that's simple, is this: stand sideways with one leg on a stairstep, 4x6, anything like that to get you off the ground  Then, aim the "lower" leg out to the side, dip the leg you're standing on and touch your toe. Raise up, repeat. That outside/downhill leg is in the air the whole time. The knee that bends is the one getting all the little stuff strengthened, and your balance worked. If this is easy, go for general strength, maybe? I'm guessing you're way more flexible than I am.

In the gym, I'll work an easy route with lots of holds, making the weaker side do all the work I can talk it into, by leading with that leg and as little help from hands as is possible. Ditto outside. Keep trying, even if it doesn't wanna. Try for a heel hook, even if it likely won't go. If I find something that might, stay there and work that move some, see what might go.

Honestly, really sticking with anything at all for fitness (even just walking) has made noticeable changes. I don't need a trekking pole to get up and down the approaches here.

And once in awhile?

That GDFing heel hook goes!! :-)
..........

I'm a stuff on the outside of the pack gumby, but I don't fill up a pack nearly as much as some do. I don't have a "rack" usually, but I'm often carrying the rope and always a sport rack and enough stuff I'm comfortable with what I have. I'm cragging for a half day though, maybe 6 hours tops, not an expedition. The big pack (50ish) is for ice climbing specifically. I do fine with my 32L, the 40 goes in the car on multiday trips with all the extras thrown in, my rack, ascenders, odd stuff that could be fun to play with ...

Absolutely get the pack that works, and work with someone who understands climbing!

I went the opposite way, and brought my packs to REI to shop camping gear before hopping a plane to meet Erika and Jim at Maple. Picking carefully, I got an amazing amount into that 32 and everything went carry-on! No rope or rack, just personal climbing stuff and camping, but I was still pleased.

Best, Helen

EDIT to add, I don't clip my shoes to the outside, but they're dinky, lol! Helmet, on the outside, yes. It's the big bulky thing. And the rope on top, if I have a fair amount in my pack. If the rope isn't in there, the helmet can be. My rope's a 70, so it is more to pack, but crucial for COR. And I'm not bushwhacking around here. Just different terrain.

Dallas R · · Traveling the USA · Joined May 2013 · Points: 191

Brandt, that's funny...

FrankPSwrote:

Dallas,

The Inreach Explorer+ is a standalone device, meaning it's fully functional without being Bluetoothed to a phone. Since I don't want to carry a phone in the backcountry, that works well for me. It's more cumbersome to text without the phone, but you can. How often do I need to send texts from the wilderness (answer: not often)

Also, the Explorer+ comes with 1:24,000 maps of all of North America preloaded, so you don't have to deal with downloading maps to it. Pretty convenient.

I had to do some research on the Inreach, this was a pretty good article.  Hiking Guy Inreach reveiw .

I didn't know Garmin had purchased Delorme.  I love the text to sat function, that's pretty cool.  The only thing you can't do is map overlays.  So if you wanted to follow a specific trail like this one you can't overlay it onto the Inreach...

But cell phone tech has improved greatly over the last 5 years or so, as a result I don't do that much anymore.  The off grid GPS function on my cell phone works sufficiently that I can often download a map to the cell phone and follow the gps trail on it.  The MP app maps work pretty good off line also.  Using the app on my phone I download the region (state), then when we target an area I download all the pictures as well.  When you pull up the climbing area map my little cell phone blue dot appears, while it doesn't give trail information it does give relative position to the specific wall you want.  Of course it's only as good as the GPS coordinates published on the MP description, makes for some fun thrashing around sometimes.  

I think the very best navigation tool is the one you understand and can use.  There are lots of new things out there that work pretty good, and some that don't.  

Old lady H · · Boise, ID · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 1,375

My excellent navigation and rescue app got married. Doesn't climb with mom anymore. :-(

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 349
ErikaNWwrote:

Well, I guess I am a perma-gumby - but my shoes never stink, I bushwack a'plenty and have never lost a shoe (lucky maybe?), so... Guess you just need a larger pack Lori! You definitely don't want to give the appearance of being a gumby - remember, you are being judged by the community at all times.

*no offense taken Guy, but really?

Erika- I couldn’t help myself. Forgive me please. I don’t know about climbing in CO. but the bushwhacking I and my friends do is pretty hard- not AZ hard, but hard. (Those boys use-Ice hockey face masks for protection!)
The perma-gumby joke is something we toss around In our little fraternity of Kern River climbers. The first time your in the lead, in the cow bush or manzanita and 3 friends are all pushing you (the battering ram) through a thicket, you understand why nothing goes outside the pack. - it will snag, it will get lost.
One of the best pack tricks I have ever seen was when Herb L. shows up with a tiny pack - 25 L.
we have this big, big pile of FA gear to bring. He putts one battery and 6 hangers in his pack and declares “I’m full- you two take the rest”.
Herb is one smart cookie!!! 

Old lady H · · Boise, ID · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 1,375
Guy Keeseewrote:

Erika- I couldn’t help myself. Forgive me please. I don’t know about climbing in CO. but the bushwhacking I and my friends do is pretty hard- not AZ hard, but hard. (Those boys use-Ice hockey face masks for protection!)
The perma-gumby joke is something we toss around In our little fraternity of Kern River climbers. The first time your in the lead, in the cow bush or manzanita and 3 friends are all pushing you (the battering ram) through a thicket, you understand why nothing goes outside the pack. - it will snag, it will get lost.
One of the best pack tricks I have ever seen was when Herb L. shows up with a tiny pack - 25 L.
we have this big, big pile of FA gear to bring. He putts one battery and 6 hangers in his pack and declares “I’m full- you two take the rest”.
Herb is one smart cookie!!! 

Lol! I admit, if there's more than two of us, I do hand off the rope to one of the "kids", but it's bowing to the knees, not just cuz.

On the flip side, it is gratifying to (mostly) be treated as just one of the guys (pun not intended, but I like it, lol). So I do carry my share. Besides, that's good for the dumbass knees.

Guy, you'll enjoy City. Well established trails, bushwhacking highly frowned on. I've not had to slog through stuff much, but it's real unfun when you're 4'11" and the trailblazer is 6' and not even looking back to see if you are visible at all.

Postholing with snowshoes on, was the worst, so far, although a beautiful shortish hike at a very snowy COR. One leg went in over my knee, and the poles also disappeared. Nothing to push on, no way the weak leg could pull up the stuck one by itself.....and nothing would bend very well with snowshoes. Super hard to get my weight over my feet, when I went down. Cross country skis are the same problem.

But? Hey, the partner on that trip is ripped as hell. He simply planted my poles in front of me. Put each of my hands on the poles. Grabbed a fistful of my pack chest strap and hoisted me out. One armed. Dang.

His only comment? "You have weak legs".

The reply I could have made, but wasn't fast enough?

"You lift 435 pounds."

Insert laughing with tears emoji here.

H.

Victor K · · Denver, CO · Joined Jul 2003 · Points: 180
Lori Milaswrote: A general fitness topic.  I have noticed how much I avoid certain movements Where I’m weaker and favor others where I’m strong—but it’s a liability in climbing. Today descending Cyclops, all that was really required was to be able to step/hop down boulders and shift weight from one leg to the other and not waver or lose balance.  

I’ll bet this is an “old” thing.    Hopping along on downward sloping surfaces and maintaining balance... there’s probably an exercise for this, right?  

And high-stepping/squatting.  I go to lengths (like Helen) to avoid it.  It’s helpful to be able to ascend rocks!    

I find my mobility on talus and other rocky terrain isn't remotely awesome. Running around on boulders is something I remember well, but can no longer do. I've resorted to trekking poles, particularly for descents, but frequently use them when I know I'm in for a steep, rocky hike up too. Being able to add a little upper body strength to the big steps has been great. I also like the challenge of finding the right placement as I'm navigating through talus. Granted, I've spent a lifetime skiing, so poles are second nature to me. But they really make a difference, particularly if I've got a pack. I REALLY like them when I have to rock hop across a stream. 

Lori Milas · · Joshua Tree, CA · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 250
Victor Kwrote:

I find my mobility on talus and other rocky terrain isn't remotely awesome. Running around on boulders is something I remember well, but can no longer do. I've resorted to trekking poles, particularly for descents, but frequently use them when I know I'm in for a steep, rocky hike up too. Being able to add a little upper body strength to the big steps has been great. I also like the challenge of finding the right placement as I'm navigating through talus. Granted, I've spent a lifetime skiing, so poles are second nature to me. But they really make a difference, particularly if I've got a pack. I REALLY like them when I have to rock hop across a stream. 

Helen, Victor... now maybe we have to define “terrain” and “talus”.  

A picture is worth a thousand words.  This was my downward descent today.  One foot on one side, one foot on the other, walking it down... and don’t slip into the crack between or fall off to the side. Pretty sure poles would have made this worse. Beyond this there were boulders to skip down the rest of the way.  Also... there’s a big difference for me between walking with and without stuff on my back.  I’m a little like a drunk sailor when I add weight.

Cosmiccragsman AKA Dwain · · Las Vegas, Nevada and Apple… · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 146

The BEST backpack in the world!









David House · · Boulder, CO · Joined Nov 2001 · Points: 473

Here's a review of the Pipedream: outdoorgearlab.com/reviews/…

I like a bag with a big, easy access zipper. Mine is an old Arc Teryx with a side zip that is OK for access and has lasted quite well. I cut off all the winter accessories :-)

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 349

Cosmek- thanks!!!       

OLH I didn’t know you were a one legged gimp like me! I ripped my quads clean off of my leg- and they didn’t all grow back! Then my back went south and the nerves on that side went away also.  I’ll try that stair work! 
But with everything there are positives- my climbing friends cut me slack! They only make me carry my personal gear. And sometimes even take my pack and carry it!!!! Good friends. 

Cosmiccragsman AKA Dwain · · Las Vegas, Nevada and Apple… · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 146
Guy Keeseewrote: Cosmek- thanks!!!       

OLH I didn’t know you were a one legged gimp like me! I ripped my quads clean off of my leg- and they didn’t all grow back! Then my back went south and the nerves on that side went away also.  I’ll try that stair work! 
But with everything there are positives- my climbing friends cut me slack! They only make me carry my personal gear. And sometimes even take my pack and carry it!!!! Good friends. 

I'm a one legged gimp also.

Carl Schneider · · Mount Torrens, South Australia · Joined Dec 2017 · Points: 0
Lori Milaswrote:

thank you for this, Greg.  (and Carl)  looks like we'll have to carefully avoid seasnakes around here.    

In every way things are getting real.  Climbing, navigating, First Aid, personal safety... just an observation that there is a big difference between being the visitor being led by a guide or local, and stepping up to take care of myself.  

I've been looking at that Black Diamond Pipedream bag.  Carl, you have a Black Diamond Creek 50.  Does anyone have a preference for a good backpack specifically for getting your gear to the crag?  Mine squeezes in helmet, 2 pairs of shoes, harness, whatever lunch/sugar I need, guidebook... but if I drop in a rack on top of that, it's all just a big jumble.  Forget the rope.  I sure like the looks of the BD where everything lays out so neatly.

The Pipe Dream bag looks good, but I haven't used it so can't recommend it. The Creek 50 is excellent. It's huge, fits my rope, top rope setup (static), rope protectors, all my quick draws (15), slings, belay devices, complete rack etc. It's really strong and very comfortable to wear. Has two zip pockets inside and an easy to get to front pocket. I put my rack in a compression sack (see link) so it's not tangled up. Maybe I could do a video of the bag? 

https://www.anacondastores.com/water/boating-essentials/dry-bags/sea-to-summit-dry-sack-4l/BP90028755006
Lori Milas · · Joshua Tree, CA · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 250
Carl Schneiderwrote:

The Pipe Dream bag looks good, but I haven't used it so can't recommend it. The Creek 50 is excellent. It's huge, fits my rope, top rope setup (static), rope protectors, all my quick draws (15), slings, belay devices, complete rack etc. It's really strong and very comfortable to wear. Has two zip pockets inside and an easy to get to front pocket. I put my rack in a compression sack (see link) so it's not tangled up. Maybe I could do a video of the bag? 

https://www.anacondastores.com/water/boating-essentials/dry-bags/sea-to-summit-dry-sack-4l/BP90028755006

Or you could write a poem about it.   

(Video would be nice)

Old lady H · · Boise, ID · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 1,375
Cosmiccragsman AKA Dwainwrote: The BEST backpack in the world!









Your nuts, dear. Can't wait to meet!! ;-)

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