New and Experienced Climbers Over 50 #11

Eddie G wrote: I agree with Carl, unless you live under a rock, not on it like we climbers, you know received culture affects folks when it comes out, however innocently. Unless you check yourself and those in your group it continues. If people worked on the issue with like frequency to crag ethics we might be further along as a community. It used to be worse? No shit, but it only gets better if folks ditch the platitudes, or excuses, and work toward change. Back on the block when a peewee wanted to throw a rock through a window the OGs let em have it knowing firsthand the larger implications our actions can have. Three cops stood by while George Floyd was murdered. While many are disgusted by the act, many others attempt to reason out the incident, he was on drugs, he resisted etc. When a climber runs into trouble we climbers come to their aid regardless of race, gender, social class etc. I hope that attitude translates to everyday public life with all of us.

I started lead climbing at 45, hit 5.12 at 48, got knocked down by injury and am back to 5.10 at 51 after suffering through 5.8 for a while. I feel like I am 40 though my body disagrees.
I expect the rest of life to be like that. I don't think I'll quit until I age out due to infirmity. Keep climbing Lori, I guarantee you'll have good days and bad ones but looking back, if we are at all alike, you'll say they have all been glorious.

+1 to everything you wrote. Thank you for chiming in.

I’ve been climbing over 20 years and am still improving. The grades may not be getting harder (although there is still some of that), but I’m getting better at different styles, mental game, systems, etc. I don’t think there is a ceiling to improvement in climbing - as long as you recognize there’s more to being a good climber than putting down big numbers and are open to continually  learning.

Peace to all of you. Stay safe.

I know the Marines here regularly do their runs.  I have no idea whether they were actually being called into perhaps LA... but it was the first time I have had cause to wonder.

The Marines are NOT being called up

I stopped climbing the numbers long ago. I climb for climbing sake. I have as much fun on 5.1s as I do on
11s. Besides, 11sand above are out of my reach anymore because of numerous injuries. After my newest injury and surgery I will be extremely happy to climb 5.3 to 5.5 if that is all I am capable  of. I am HAPPY just to be climbing again, so I don't care about GRADES! 

Senor Arroz wrote: Since we've all talked about navigation in this thread or previous iterations of it I thought I'd share this good tutorial on using GAIAgps.

Outside Magazine on how to use GAIAgps

I just installed the GAI App and will give it a go, looks promising.  I have been using All Trails and Trail Link (for bicycles) for some time.  I've tried MTB project and Hiking Project, but find them cumbersome.  

Climbing partners, obviously I am very lucky.  Being married to my climbing partner is pretty awesome.  But we do have those married moments, you know, the ones where there is a heated discussion.  It's a relationship.  Climbing partners are a relationship.  Some better than others.  None are perfect.  

And then there is Bruce from California.  He was traveling and seeking a catch until his regular partner could join him, so we went climbing with him.  I was pretty sure the day was going to suck, he was politically opinionated, a bit foul mouthed and a bit offensive.  But then we got to the crag, it's like his whole personality morphed.  He was laser focused on belay, knowledgeable, helpful, and encouraging. I would climb with him at any time, I just don't want to ride in the same car with him....

We are meeting another couple that we have climbed with before next Monday at Smith Rock.  She was really into climbing, him not so much.  Then he came climbing with us, it was suddenly ok that she could out climb him, after all, Barbara runs circles around me.  Since that time they have been climbing as a couple and have taken some advanced climbing lessons.  It will be interesting to see what his attitude is now, it's been a year.  

Like most relationships, I think finding good climbing partners is a matter of just keep trying.  

 

Dallas.... good you have a reliable partner, for climbing and marriage. In my experience that’s a rare thing. I’ve climbed with couples before and many times the stress of climbing brings out the worst emotions, hidden away.
My best partners have always been the reliable kind of people. Nothing is more frustrating than planning a trip, getting time from work, buying airline tickets, then the getting the “bailout” call 7 days out.....
And a good partner is easy going, likes to cook, carry more than their share, take “your” pitches when needed, let you bitch and moan, and can climb anything and make bomber anchors in about 60 seconds.

A good partner is someone to cherish even more than a Wife. They are rare

Rather abruptly, my first trip to City of Rocks for the season is next week! My friend, well, semi adopted son, almost, Fritz is in SLC now with family, on his way to summering in Wyoming. He thought maybe a detour would work, I said lemme look, and I now have the last available reservation for camping for Tuesday through Friday next week. I'll bring my regular climbing partner with me too, but if anyone is in the area, hunt me up and say howdy!

Snow in the forecast there for Monday night, rain later. Should be perfect for climbing, the early summer at elevation temp swings where you strip layers on and off all day. 

Last season, we were there about every two weeks. This year? Dunno, but I hope it stays doable. I'm getting stronger, and decent, doable, rock is a real pleasure! Seeing friends is the best by far, though.

So yeah, gotta mow the lawn before Tuesday. Maybe.

Best, Helen

Old lady Hwrote: My friend, well, semi adopted son, almost, Fritz ...

Surely not this Fritz

Fritz Fritz (yup that's his name) was a dirt bagger we met at Smith Rock in 2014, last we heard he was in Knoxville. About 6' 7".  It was really cool to watch him climb, he would skip whole sections of a climb with his super long reach. 

Dallas Rwrote:

I just installed the GAI App and will give it a go, looks promising.  I have been using All Trails and Trail Link (for bicycles) for some time.  I've tried MTB project and Hiking Project, but find them cumbersome. 

For what it's worth, Trailforks is pretty good for mountain biking.

Dallas Rwrote:

Surely not this Fritz

Fritz Fritz (yup that's his name) was a dirt bagger we met at Smith Rock in 2014, last we heard he was in Knoxville. About 6' 7".  It was really cool to watch him climb, he would skip whole sections of a climb with his super long reach. 

Not quite, but sorta, lol! Fritz (on MP) who likes gotes. The beards are about the same....and my Fritz is about to spend the summer living in his Honda Fit. 

I met a super tall guy at City last year. Over 7'? Somewhere on MP I posted the pic of my hand on his. Super nice guy! And, as much as I bitch and moan about being 4'11"? It is way more difficult to be super tall, day to day, IMO.

Best, Helen

Old lady Hwrote: Rather abruptly, my first trip to City of Rocks for the season is next week! My friend, well, semi adopted son, almost, Fritz is in SLC now with family, on his way to summering in Wyoming. He thought maybe a detour would work, I said lemme look, and I now have the last available reservation for camping for Tuesday through Friday next week. I'll bring my regular climbing partner with me too, but if anyone is in the area, hunt me up and say howdy!

Snow in the forecast there for Monday night, rain later. Should be perfect for climbing, the early summer at elevation temp swings where you strip layers on and off all day.

Last season, we were there about every two weeks. This year? Dunno, but I hope it stays doable. I'm getting stronger, and decent, doable, rock is a real pleasure! Seeing friends is the best by far, though.

So yeah, gotta mow the lawn before Tuesday. Maybe.

Best, Helen

My 12-year old son and I will be arriving there on Saturday, staying until the next Friday, so our visits will coincide.  I haven't visited there since 1994!  We're staying in camping Area 3 for most of the trip, and at area 4 for the last couple of nights. If you see a balding (OK, bald) guy with a mustache and goatee and a long-haired skinny kid wearing a beanie (regardless of temperature) wandering around lost, and that'll be us    I would love to meet others from this forum.

My kid has been studying our new guidebook - we're REALLY excited!!!

Brian Wirtzwrote:

My 12-year old son and I will be arriving there on Saturday, staying until the next Friday, so our visits will coincide.  I haven't visited there since 1994!  We're staying in camping Area 3 for most of the trip, and at area 4 for the last couple of nights. If you see a balding (OK, bald) guy with a mustache and goatee and a long-haired skinny kid wearing a beanie (regardless of temperature) wandering around lost, and that'll be us    I would love to meet others from this forum.

My kid has been studying our new guidebook - we're REALLY excited!!!

I've reserved campsite 38, and will probably be there, unless we don't like it much and can swap for the walk-in if it's available. Don't remember what 38 is like, but most everything there is fine. Both are near Bath rock. My Honda is.... unmistakably me! And I'm more than happy to share my rope. 

Yeah, the new Bingham guide is great! Get the climb-on approach map from the visitor center too. Super helpful for figuring out where stuff is,  figuring out sun/shade, and for me, which approach is more doable.

Best, Helen

Old lady Hwrote:

I've reserved campsite 38, and will probably be there, unless we don't like it much and can swap for the walk-in if it's available. Don't remember what 38 is like, but most everything there is fine. Both are near Bath rock. My Honda is.... unmistakably me! And I'm more than happy to share my rope. 

Yeah, the new Bingham guide is great! Get the climb-on approach map from the visitor center too. Super helpful for figuring out where stuff is,  figuring out sun/shade, and for me, which approach is more doable.

Best, Helen

Helen - Thanks for the tip on the approach map.  I'll definitely stop by and grab one on the way in.  We're staying in site 15 till Wednesday, then site 7 Thursday and Friday.  We'll be in a silver 4-door Tundra with a pop-up camper if you happen to stop by first.  We're also very happy to share ropes as well!  

Brian

Old lady Hwrote:

...My Honda is.... unmistakably me! ...

Do you mean it's old?   

Carl Schneiderwrote:

Do you mean it's old?   

Lol! 2016. She's named Frank, by the way.

Look for the "sticker" representing this thread!! I'm not sure you overlap the story though, Carl. Every sticker (on the sides also) represents something memorable. Special people in special places. All have a story. Some have parted company now. I do take the car to the car wash once or twice a year, whether it needs it or not.

When I was in Colorado, Fritz and I stopped to climb near Ouray. We barely arrived, I sat down to start messing with harness, etc, and one of the young guys did a bit of a double take. Stared, then asked, "are you old lady H?!!!?!" I am not a stealth model climber.

Hey, where's our OK friend? Been gone a long time.

Best, Helen

Have fun at CoR, Helen. I'm really looking forward to September.

Old lady Hwrote:

Lol! 2016. She's named Frank, by the way.

Look for the "sticker" representing this thread!! I'm not sure you overlap the story though, Carl. Every sticker (on the sides also) represents something memorable. Special people in special places. All have a story. Some have parted company now. I do take the car to the car wash once or twice a year, whether it needs it or not.

When I was in Colorado, Fritz and I stopped to climb near Ouray. We barely arrived, I sat down to start messing with harness, etc, and one of the young guys did a bit of a double take. Stared, then asked, "are you old lady H?!!!?!" I am not a stealth model climber.

Hey, where's our OK friend? Been gone a long time.

Best, Helen

You're famous! 

Lori

I usually climb with my best friend, my wife, Jean, We also have 2 other married couples that we occasionally climb with. Both Jean and I have climbed separately with other people. As was stated previously, we climb with people that are safe and we get along with. You will figure this out with time on who you like and are safe.

The bad part of climbing with a spouse is when you get into a fight while climbing. The best part is that you know she will never drop your ass no matter what you did or said. I am super lucky to have Jean. She has caught me many times when I have fallen. Once I took a very long screamer and was only about 4 foot off the ground. I should have put in more pro but I was feeling very comfortable when my foot slipped. When we finished the climb and had to rap off, it took me about 15 minutes to get the figure 8 out. We needed the nut tool to get it out. I was very close to cutting the rope.

Be safe.

John

Old lady Hwrote:

Lol! 2016. She's named Frank, by the way.

Look for the "sticker" representing this thread!! I'm not sure you overlap the story though, Carl. Every sticker (on the sides also) represents something memorable. Special people in special places. All have a story. Some have parted company now. I do take the car to the car wash once or twice a year, whether it needs it or not.

When I was in Colorado, Fritz and I stopped to climb near Ouray. We barely arrived, I sat down to start messing with harness, etc, and one of the young guys did a bit of a double take. Stared, then asked, "are you old lady H?!!!?!" I am not a stealth model climber.

Hey, where's our OK friend? Been gone a long time.

Best, Helen

I'm searching for the mustard sticker... did I miss it?  And yes, I miss John from OK, too.  He did sign out a year ago, saying he was just tired of the judgment and negativity on MP.  I'm also aware of how easily a post can be misinterpreted... and frustration ensues.  But we must have our mustard!  

I really expected to discover that Joshua Tree is too extreme and too hot/cold/harsh to actually live here.  Maybe it's Tony... working so hard to make this a home and quell panic but it's just a beautiful experience... and btw... there are 4 bedrooms here--those were picked for YOU (on MP).  We are trying out all the beds, like Goldilocks.  His birthday was yesterday, and I drove us through 3 towns to gather info on the possible diners... there's not a lot to choose from!  And for some reason that's just fine with us.  

I love the comments from you'all on partners.  I was having a hard time framing my question... because I think I know 'where' to find them, but was just mulling over the magic.  I know who to go out with where that synergy happens, and the exact right chemistry... where we encourage each other to go a step further, try the next hardest thing, high-five over a job well done.  I just wondered if it was this way with everyone.  Apparently it is.  It is a true 'relationship' like none other--and then we each go home to our other world.  

I asked Nelson for some remedial help, to start patching in all that I haven't or so far can't do with anchors, cleaning anchors, rapping, etc.  We'll be getting after it starting on Saturday, and I hope frequently until some of this stuff is second nature.  I also know that Nelson knows my fear of heights, of being off-belay for any amount of time so he can be patient... but I know if we start low to the ground (ie. Lizard's) and work up, I can get this done.  :-)  

--------------------

I had a great time with Brandt for a few hours on Tuesday.  A little intimidating being with two really accomplished climbers (Brandt and his friend)... what haven't they done in all these years?  We tackled a few slab routes (Swing Low and R.A.F.)... I got hitched up on the second one.  I REALLY tried to get through the crux, and it came down to ONE step.  They both figured it out, I struggled for a long time, trying it every which way.  When I lowered back down, Brandt's partner offered the advice that it appeared I wasn't  keeping my heel down on that slab move.  I think he was right.  Reflexibly on slab I want to keep my heels up.    And as I reach up right (for a non-existent hold    ) up goes my heel, and off the wall I go.

So, these small microadjustments make the difference between failure and a send?  I would like to go back and try the same route, focusing on keeping heel DOWN through that crux.  So much to learn!  

Glad everyone is getting together in September... sounds really fun.     

   

Dragons

You still have an open invitation to stay with Jean and I and climb at Ralph Stover State Park. We have 2 extra bedrooms to crash in.

Jean and I went out the other day to climb. We can help you learn to climb overhangs. We have a couple of them that are easy and also harder ones.

This one is called Tales from the Crypt it is a 5.10. The overhang is not that hard. It is hard after the overhang while trying to cling to tiny holds. You climb on the holds on the right of the rope.

This one is Hawk's Neck with is a 5.7+. There are a couple of variations. You need a 60 m rope to TR this one, This was the first trad climb that we did at Ralph Stover ages ago.

You start on the right of the wet rock on the bottom of photo. You stay to the right for the start and then do the 3 little overhangs.

If you start to the left of the left most rope, and do the tiny finger crack, you are on Hawk's Neck which is a 5.9. Very hard overhang at bottom and tiny holds by thin crack.


Hopefully heading to Seneca Rocks for 3 days of climbing if the weather holds out.

John

Oldtradguywrote: Dragons

You still have an open invitation to stay with Jean and I and climb at Ralph Stover State Park. We have 2 extra bedrooms to crash in.

Thanks, John! I will keep it in mind for the future, and also give you some advance notice if we make plans. That rock sure looks nice! I wish we had more top-roping in our neck of the woods. It's pretty much lead it or leave it here. Any gains I made over the winter are probably long gone, unfortunately.