How's the climbing in Austin

John Reeve wrote:

Of the places I've been, Tuscon and Moab, respectively.

That doesn't seem like a crazypants grading there.

No good climbing in Tucson.

The limestone is like greased glass in some places, but you do get walls and walls of sport routes of all grades at Reimers.  That, and deep water soloing at Pace Bend are the highlights of the area in my opinion.  Enchanted Rock is the only trad, so you are pretty limited on traditionally protected routes in the area, but they are there (and you should try some with Robert S if you get the chance).  So, if you enjoy the gymnastic aspect of climbing and want increasingly difficult short sport routes you'd be pretty happy.

I wanted more moderate multipitch trad routes and things other than limestone, which is actually why I left Austin.  If you like food, nightlife and other "city" things, want to live in the TX area and climbing isn't your most important hobby - by all means give Austin a try.  I guess what I'm saying is that it depends on what you are looking for!

Robert S wrote:

Austin has a cultish gym climbing community. It's really weird and really comes out in the local FB group. Some of us call the popular gym Cult Climbing Center. Management also does some shady things.

When that new gym opens, I hope you and lots of others join it. I'd love to see Cult lose a lot of business.

Anyway, enough of that. When you get here, let me know if you want to climb. Or join the Texas Climbers group I started on Facebook and find me there. I'm mostly okay to hang with as long as you can put up with my bitching about dogs, hammocks, music, etc. lol.

That's sketchy haha I wonder if you're referring to ABP. I've been there once when I still lived in San Marcos (when I had no idea bouldering or rock climbing was so big) seemed chill though. And nah sorry I meant I'm waiting on a gym in Dallas to open up, so I don't think the Cult gym will lose any business over it. For sure man, I will hit you up sometime this Summer hopefully, I'm sure I'll be able to make the trip to Austin. Idk anyone that climbs so stoked to get out there and meet and learn from others. 

Nathan Sullivan wrote: The limestone is like greased glass in some places, but you do get walls and walls of sport routes of all grades at Reimers.  That, and deep water soloing at Pace Bend are the highlights of the area in my opinion.  Enchanted Rock is the only trad, so you are pretty limited on traditionally protected routes in the area, but they are there (and you should try some with Robert S if you get the chance).  So, if you enjoy the gymnastic aspect of climbing and want increasingly difficult short sport routes you'd be pretty happy.

I wanted more moderate multipitch trad routes and things other than limestone, which is actually why I left Austin.  If you like food, nightlife and other "city" things, want to live in the TX area and climbing isn't your most important hobby - by all means give Austin a try.  I guess what I'm saying is that it depends on what you are looking for!

Thanks for the info, sounds pretty good to me! 

Read the MP description of Austin. You'll think it's exaggerating or joking. I can assure you it is not. 

Andrew P wrote: Read the MP description of Austin. You'll think it's exaggerating or joking. I can assure you it is not. 

Lmao I read it already. I'm thinking I'm so new to climbing I'll be too stoked to notice/care just from getting out and climbing 

Johnny Utah wrote:

That's sketchy haha I wonder if you're referring to ABP. I've been there once when I still lived in San Marcos (when I had no idea bouldering or rock climbing was so big) seemed chill though. And nah sorry I meant I'm waiting on a gym in Dallas to open up, so I don't think the Cult gym will lose any business over it. For sure man, I will hit you up sometime this Summer hopefully, I'm sure I'll be able to make the trip to Austin. Idk anyone that climbs so stoked to get out there and meet and learn from others. 

No, not ABP.

Robert S wrote:

No, not ABP.

Sweet good to hear that's where I was planning on making my go to 

If you liked Austin you would like Boulder.  Yes, they are different cities but similar in attitudes and un-affordability.   Have you thought about Vegas?  I know you said Denver or Austin but Vegas has some of the best climbing in the country and depending on suburb is relatively cheap.  The FaceBook Vegas climber's page used be worst than Tinder but haven't been on it in a bit.

I live in Dallas and would rather drive a little farther to HCR than to Austin.  35 just sucks balls and Reimers is a clown show most nice weather weekends.  The Green Belt would be fine for after work but as others said its like climbing a kitchen counter top it's so polished.

I guess it depends on how important climbing is to you relative to the other parts of your life.

If you have to live in Texas, you may as well live in Austin as that is probably the best place to climb on the regular locally.

John Reeve wrote:I mean, Dallas has McKinny Falls, and SW Oklahoma, I guess...

McKinney Falls is in Austin.  There is a city called McKinney in the DFW metroplex, maybe that’s what you’re talking about?

Anyway, I lived in Dallas and climbed in No/CenTex for four years during grad school.  Enchanted Rock and the Wichitas are excellent trad areas (though Erock’s better crack lines tend to be on the short side). Put in your time at these places and you’ll be able to call yourself “well rounded.”
TX’s limestone bouldering is super good, especially in the winter. DWS at lakes Travis and Whitney is super fun. 
The limestone sport is, IMO, mediocre, very short, polished; you’re better off just bouldering. I wouldn’t move anywhere in No/CenTex with climbing as the main focus.

Pnelson wrote:

McKinney Falls is in Austin.  There is a city called McKinney in the DFW metroplex, maybe that’s what you’re talking about?

Yeah, you're 100% right.... I was thinking of Lake Mineral Wells, where I have never been.

For those reading this you can skip Mineral Wells.  It's an hour away and I never go there because it's short,T/R only, and pretty rough on the hands.  It was fun the first couple of times there and if I"m teaching someone how to repel it's great but honestly I'd rather climb at Summit Plano where the walls are taller.

Blakevan wrote: If you liked Austin you would like Boulder.  Yes, they are different cities but similar in attitudes and un-affordability.   Have you thought about Vegas?  I know you said Denver or Austin but Vegas has some of the best climbing in the country and depending on suburb is relatively cheap.  The FaceBook Vegas climber's page used be worst than Tinder but haven't been on it in a bit.

I live in Dallas and would rather drive a little farther to HCR than to Austin.  35 just sucks balls and Reimers is a clown show most nice weather weekends.  The Green Belt would be fine for after work but as others said its like climbing a kitchen counter top it's so polished.

I guess it depends on how important climbing is to you relative to the other parts of your life.

Yeah I'm just so new to climbing that your last sentence is really the key to the decision. I love the outdoors in general so Colorado would still be awesome if I just end up not loving climbing, but I know for a fact I'd be content in Austin, at least in this point in my life. I'm still going to visit Denver and Boulder to see what it would be like though. 

And thanks for the Mineral Wells mention - I've only been in Dallas for a few months and never heard of it. How's the bouldering over there? 

Mineral Wells sucks, not worth the drive from Dallas to boulder or TR imo. There is great bouldering in Arkansas, Rogers Park (Lake Belton),  E-Rock and in the Wichita's. The drive is longer but they are all still doable for a day trip from Dallas (except maybe arkansas) and the climbing is much better.

If your looking for outdoor activities to do while still in Dallas, water sports (SUP, kayaking, etc) are doable, and the MTB community here is thriving. It's not the highest quality of either in the world, but for me it scratches the itch.

I mean, if you don't care about climbing then there are some nice places in Texas :D

MW is a good day trip if you just want to be outside.  Penitentiary Hollow is worth a visit even if you don't climb anything there and the lake is pretty nice.  There is a long bike trail between the Menial Wells and Weatherford that is fun if you like biking, I don't.  All in all if you just want a decent state park MW is fine.

Eisenhower is only about 45 mins away from McKinney and has like three boulders.  Again, worth a trip and if you like fishing you can make a day of it but don't go for those three rocks.

If you really want to boulder head to Wichita Mountain Wildlife Refuge when they open up Charon Gardens.  Right now only Mt. Scott is open and I'm not sure of the boulders up there.  Upper Mt. Scott and Lower Mt. Scott climbing is worth the trip as well but you have to know how to set trad anchors for T/R or lead trad lines.  Only High Anxiety has bolted anchors that I know about.  

Finally McGee is about two hours away and I plan on checking that out soon so no beta from me.