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What does your Woody look like??? 2.0

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 252

What exactly are those bolts drilled into for the anchor?  From here it looks like a single thin board which is kinda sketch...

Darren Mabe · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2002 · Points: 3,669
Ted Pinson wrote: What exactly are those bolts drilled into for the anchor?  From here it looks like a single thin board which is kinda sketch...

Do you really think I would make it sketchy?

Glowering · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 16
Darren Mabe wrote:

Do you really think I would make it sketchy?

Judging from the excellent construction evident in the rest of the photos you’d have to assume it’s bomber. 

Great Wall and beautiful family. Nice work. 
Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 252
Darren Mabe wrote:

Do you really think I would make it sketchy?

I’m not making any assumptions either way, just was wondering based off of that photo.  The rest of your wall looks awesome and the construction is indeed solid so I’m sure it’s fine, it just looked weird from that angle so I was curious.

kalen glenn · · San Jose, CA · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 75

I suck at hard finger cracks. So I made these to help practice. 

Robert Monjure · · Winston-Salem, NC · Joined Jul 2019 · Points: 0

Moonboard currently set to the 2016 holds plus some various other holds I had from my previous house wall. 

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 252
kalen glenn wrote: I suck at hard finger cracks. So I made these to help practice. 

That’s a really cool idea!

Tristan Bradford · · Boulder, CO · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 3,147

16x13ft at 15 degrees. plenty to train endurance. cheers!

Todd Bruns · · Golden , Colorado · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 0

Just built a 12x8 set at 30 degrees. Anyone have any input on the best way to arrange the holds for training. Spray wall, mirrored or just set individual problems. What does everyone prefer?

chris boylston · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2019 · Points: 0

Has anyone climbing up the backside of their climbing wall?  I am nearly done with an email 8x12 wall and am wondering how difficult it will be to make repairs/adjustments to the center top of the back.  Should climbing up the back be just as sturdy as climbing up the front? 

david quatro · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 10
Josh Gates · · Wilmington, DE · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 5

Need more holds! :)

Hans Climber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2020 · Points: 0
deemonti wrote: Hey MP,
I'm about 50% through construction of my woody but just to test it out I put up some holds and pulled a few moves.  Feels very solid!  Two questions:  

  1. While mounting a hold (with my impact driver) I already popped a t-nut.  Such a bummer.  I put in a few holds by hand (giant allen key) and I found that there's a lot of force required to turn the bolt.  They just don't go in easily.  Has this been anyone else's experience too?  I'm using four-prong t-nuts and standard 3/8 bolts all purchased from Escape Climbing.
  2. Decent weather in Detroit these days so I'm outside working on more panels.  Drilling holes (with the drill guide) and pounding in t-nuts with a dab of glue on the barrel/prongs.  It's driving me crazy that I can't get them completely flush to the plywood - the gap is about the thickness of a credit card.  My process: I tap them all in gingerly and then come back through and hit them very hard.  it seems like when I hit one it causes others to pop out slightly.  It's like a game of wack-a-mole.  I've also tried using a big hold (jug) to pull them flush from the other side but as soon as I pull out the bolt they rise up a bit.  The pull method is also VERY time consuming.  I'm starting to regret having gotten the four-prong tnuts and not the screw-in kind.  Any advice?
Thank you for the awesome advice folks.

Are you putting your plywood somewhere level?  Not sure if your drill has it, but some have a bubble level on the top that you can watch to make your holes perfectly straight/square.  Or have someone hold a carpenter square close to the drill for reference of what is straight.  

I started using glue and realized some of the glue was pushing out when the Tnut was put in.  I had to clean the glue out or it would have hardened at the end of the Tnut.  Is there hardened glue in there?  

I also just bought Tnuts and bolts from Escape and had one bad Tnut that was already installed.  No bolt would thread into it.  Hoping I don't find more.  Also, one bolt had a very sharp piece of metal on the very end that cut/stabbed me pretty good.  I imagine all the stuff is from China etc. where there isn't as much quality control.

Dan CO · · Boulder, CO · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 60

Have no pictures to contribute but I do have a question - going to put a home wall in my garage - I have a very wide space to work with (up to 18' wide).  I read that its important to be able to access the back of the wall for repairs - but if I put a wall in that wide I don't see how I'd get to teh back of the panels without removing them.  A lot of the walls I see here don't look like theres any way to get behind them if needed - is this something I should be concerned with???

Robert Monjure · · Winston-Salem, NC · Joined Jul 2019 · Points: 0
chris boylston wrote: Has anyone climbing up the backside of their climbing wall?  I am nearly done with an email 8x12 wall and am wondering how difficult it will be to make repairs/adjustments to the center top of the back.  Should climbing up the back be just as sturdy as climbing up the front? 

I like having cross braces which double as really spaced ladder rungs on the backside. Alternatively I added 2x4 steps to a previous wall I had which was meant for down climbing after topping out. 

D Elliot · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2017 · Points: 0
DE F wrote: Have no pictures to contribute but I do have a question - going to put a home wall in my garage - I have a very wide space to work with (up to 18' wide).  I read that its important to be able to access the back of the wall for repairs - but if I put a wall in that wide I don't see how I'd get to teh back of the panels without removing them.  A lot of the walls I see here don't look like theres any way to get behind them if needed - is this something I should be concerned with???

Then build the wall at 15 feet to allow you to access it from one side? 

You’re gonna get tired of removing panels real quick after eventually stripping T-nuts and needing to replace them. 
Eric K · · Leavenworth, WA · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 45
chris boylston wrote: Has anyone climbing up the backside of their climbing wall?  I am nearly done with an email 8x12 wall and am wondering how difficult it will be to make repairs/adjustments to the center top of the back.  Should climbing up the back be just as sturdy as climbing up the front? 

I have installed a 2x6 that runs horizantlly along the studs half way up the backside of my wall. I used this to stand on and replace the one spinner of a T-nut I had. Worked well enough.

Paul L · · Portland, OR · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 337
Josh Gates wrote: Need more holds! :)

Mountain Gear is having a going out of business sale and had a metolius 30pc screw on pack for like $22+shipping. All small chips, some really small crimps and pinches.  Good deal if they still have any left. I got one last week. 

Josh Gates · · Wilmington, DE · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 5
Paul L wrote:

Mountain Gear is having a going out of business sale and had a metolius 30pc screw on pack for like $22+shipping. All small chips, some really small crimps and pinches.  Good deal if they still have any left. I got one last week. 

Thanks for the lead - totally sold out now. Good get!

Colonel Sandbag · · Boston, MA · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 76

It lives. It becomes stronger every day.

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