Rodger Raubach wrote: Hey Guys! Cosmiccragsman, a.k.a. Dwain just clued me in to the existence of this thread. Always late to the party, but not left out anymore.
Welcome, Rodger. Hope to see you at City of Rocks in September!!!!!
I've been laying low in the climbing community past couple years; had a heart attack in June of 2018; completely cleared to resume climbing, but my cardio really sucks. Have been gym climbing for conditioning, but doesn't compare to the "real thing" on rocks.
Just found some of my son's (who moved out about 5 years ago) magic mushrooms in some boxes I was clearing out. Self isolation could get interesting...
Chances aren't all that good there will be any posters at all...
Remy is an outlier among outliers. But for those planning to repeat the feat: note that he can't actually get down...
Did I miss something in the film or do you have inside info?
He flew down. I mean, who wouldn't, if offered the option? But I didn't see that he couldn't get down.
I have mixed feelings about these 'inspiring' age records, at both extremes of age, both the 94 year old on Mirror d'Agentiere as well as the 10 year old on El Cap. It's cool to see that it can be done, but otoh, if I need a big team solely dedicated to getting me up a route, well that's not exactly what I consider climbing.
I'd be much more interested in seeing normal older folks getting out with friends and climbing at whatever level is actually manageable without external support. This is how I imagine you, Rich, to be climbing. It's certainly how I saw Jamie Logan and Jim Collins climbing back when I went to Movement. It's how I see Wendy climbing at the gym.
Honestly, I was more psyched to see Remy climbing on plastic. A bit too much front on style, but still competent and capable. I did have some doubts about whether he could risk falling.
Did I miss something in the film or do you have inside info?
He flew down. I mean, who wouldn't, if offered the option? But I didn't see that he couldn't get down.
I have mixed feelings about these 'inspiring' age records, at both extremes of age, both the 94 year old on Mirror d'Agentiere as well as the 10 year old on El Cap. It's cool to see that it can be done, but otoh, if I need a big team solely dedicated to getting me up a route, well that's not exactly what I consider climbing.
I'd be much more interested in seeing normal older folks getting out with friends and climbing at whatever level is actually manageable without external support. This is how I imagine you, Rich, to be climbing. It's certainly how I saw Jamie Logan and Jim Collins climbing back when I went to Movement. It's how I see Wendy climbing at the gym.
Honestly, I was more psyched to see Remy climbing on plastic. A bit too much front on style, but still competent and capable. I did have some doubts about whether he could risk falling.
Remy's son looked pretty active and not so young.
When Jamie Logan climbed at the BRC, she gave me helpful advice that I still call on when needed. And Eric Aldrich is a source of great advice and beta. (Helps with technique, but I sure can't match his strength.)
p.s. Until the coronavirus hit and my kind and helpful neighbors referred to me as "elderly neighbor," I was still trying to think of myself as late middle-aged.
Well, while you guys are posting penis pictures and talking climbing and smack at each other--and one of you is posting pics of magic mushrooms... I'm sitting here buried in escrow numbers, bank statements and wire transfers... FROM MY CELL PHONE.
When does the climbing start? Because right now, I'm not in a very good mood.
rgold
·
Apr 13, 2020
·
Poughkeepsie, NY
· Joined Feb 2008
· Points: 526
Mark E Dixon wrote:
Did I miss something in the film or do you have inside info?
He flew down. I mean, who wouldn't, if offered the option? But I didn't see that he couldn't get down.
I have mixed feelings about these 'inspiring' age records, at both extremes of age, both the 94 year old on Mirror d'Agentiere as well as the 10 year old on El Cap. It's cool to see that it can be done, but otoh, if I need a big team solely dedicated to getting me up a route, well that's not exactly what I consider climbing.
I'd be much more interested in seeing normal older folks getting out with friends and climbing at whatever level is actually manageable without external support. This is how I imagine you, Rich, to be climbing. It's certainly how I saw Jamie Logan and Jim Collins climbing back when I went to Movement. It's how I see Wendy climbing at the gym.
Honestly, I was more psyched to see Remy climbing on plastic. A bit too much front on style, but still competent and capable. I did have some doubts about whether he could risk falling.
Remy's son looked pretty active and not so young.
No inside info, but watching him move on terrain near the top made me suspect that flying down was not a lovely convenience but actually a necessary part of the plan. This corresponds to some extent to my own experience in that I and other "elder statesman" I know do rather better on the rock then on rough and unstable ground involved in approaches and descents, and projecting forward this already-detectable decline, for those of us now closing in on if not actually reaching 80, suggests that in the unlikely case that we are still around and functional in another ten years, flying down would probably be the only way we could get off something big too.
When Jamie Logan climbed at the BRC, she gave me helpful advice that I still call on when needed. And Eric Aldrich is a source of great advice and beta. (Helps with technique, but I sure can't match his strength.)
p.s. Until the coronavirus hit and my kind and helpful neighbors referred to me as "elderly neighbor," I was still trying to think of myself as late middle-aged.
Well if it helps, I always thought you and I were about the same age, and that I was about the same age as Fred K and that Fred is still just a youngster :-)
I don't know Eric, by name anyway. Wouldn't be surprised if I recognized him at the gym.
Care to share Jamie's tips?
@Rich- I found it interesting that Remy seemed most solid on plastic. Less steady on the sport route, even less so on the Mirroir and least steady on the approach. I find myself less steady as time passes too. Do you perform or advocate any balance training? I had planned on learning to slackline at the Spot this spring, but that's out now, of course.
rgold
·
Apr 13, 2020
·
Poughkeepsie, NY
· Joined Feb 2008
· Points: 526
Mark E Dixon wrote:
Well if it helps, I always thought you and I were about the same age, and that I was about the same age as Fred K and that Fred is still just a youngster :-)
I don't know Eric, by name anyway. Wouldn't be surprised if I recognized him at the gym.
Care to share Jamie's tips?
@Rich- I found it interesting that Remy seemed most solid on plastic. Less steady on the sport route, even less so on the Mirroir and least steady on the approach. I find myself less steady as time passes too. Do you perform or advocate any balance training? I had planned on learning to slackline at the Spot this spring, but that's out now, of course.
My decline in balance is quite notable, and that's in spite of various attempts at training like a Bosu ball. What happens, I think, is that one loses cilia in the inner ear as one ages, and this results in a decrease in balancing ability. You can't train what isn't there, but what training can do, I think, is to shift the sensory load to favor vision. This seems to be the case for me anyway; my balance is sort of ok with my eyes open but is nearly gone with my eyes shut. Because of the need to train somewhat different neural pathways, I do think balancing exercises are important without having to be anywhere near as "extreme" as a slack line. Being able to confidently walk a rigid rail is plenty good for a start.
An issue related to balance is that old folks also have to pay attention to leg strength. Climbers are big on upper-body training, but most of the people I know find that climbing, approaches, and descents keep their legs in shape. I don't think this is true as you age (unless, like Donini, you live where you can motor up and down fourteeners every day), and it certainly isn't going to be true during the restricted activity of pandemic quarantining. All kinds of bodyweight leg exercises are possible, and if you have access to weights, you can do some that as well. Don't neglect this oldsters!
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