What does your Woody look like??? 2.0

D Elliot wrote:

Depending on space on the right side framing of the board, you could run 2x4 or 6 vertically and mount them on the existing beams on side of the board for a crack trainer, that way you don’t lose valuable real estate on the actual nut grid. 

What’s the main purpose of the wall? Project wall, or spray wall, or just messing around? Depending on that, you could set it up in a way to train specifics...spray for circuits/laps and endurance, or a set few problems for limit bouldering, etc. I’d see if you could get some more holds so you have some more options 

Honestly, I had built one in my Indiana-living days (nothing within a reasonable distance in some regions), and decided to make a freestanding one last week off a design from a friend. Everything (including surfing) is shut down here, and Lord knows I’m not about to go on a run, or something like that. 

The wall is to keep us somewhat engaged and strong during the upcoming months of isolation.  If I’m able to incorporate a crack move or two into one of the random problems I set, it’ll be a success. I don’t envision a systems board setup or anything intense. We are low 5.10 trad climbers with little better to do.

Peter Czoschke wrote:

I watched the first few tutorials of TheSketchupEssentials on YouTube and that got me going.  One thing to note is the free web-based version is somewhat different from the desktop version so look for tutorials specific to that.

 Oh, and a mouse with a scroll-wheel is a must.

After a couple frustrating hours you'll have the hang of it.  Well worth the time investment IMHO.  In building my model I already found a few gotchas I wouldn't otherwise have noticed until well into the project.

It's not great for creating drawings (as far as I can tell); but hey, it's free!

Thanks Peter, I will scope that out. It would be great to have better plans for my various quixotic carpentry ventures. 

Andrew Hurst wrote:

Honestly, I had built one in my Indiana-living days (nothing within a reasonable distance in some regions), and decided to make a freestanding one last week off a design from a friend. Everything (including surfing) is shut down here, and Lord knows I’m not about to go on a run, or something like that. 

The wall is to keep us somewhat engaged and strong during the upcoming months of isolation.  If I’m able to incorporate a crack move or two into one of the random problems I set, it’ll be a success. I don’t envision a systems board setup or anything intense. We are low 5.10 trad climbers with little better to do.

Got it. Yeah I suggested the side crack system so you could do more than a few moves to train if you wanted, and you could use the entire board face for regular holds, but you know best what you need. I just ordered about 30+ new holds, mostly crimp-pinch combo holds so I have the most variety, and setting it spray-style for laps and power endurance. A few larger holds for dynamic throws or undercling options. 

Hey guys! I got all my wood to start my 8x12 spray wall! Was wondering if anyone that’s built a system board, kilter board, or moon board with EU metrics could tell me what space is between holds - I think I read the moon board is 20 cm apart? Not sure though. Also if that’s the case, how far do I go in from the very beginning of the edge. I know American metrics are 3 inch at start than 6 inch every drill hole. But I don’t know what it would be in cm?  Thanks! 

Imperial
https://www.moonboard.com/Content/Information/moonboard_template_guide_imperial.pdf

metric
​https://www.moonboard.com/Content/Information/moonboard_template_guide_metric.pdf​​​

csproul wrote: Imperial
https://www.moonboard.com/Content/Information/moonboard_template_guide_imperial.pdf

metric
https://www.moonboard.com/Content/Information/moonboard_template_guide_metric.pdf

Thanks dude! Imperial link didn’t work for some reason. But the metric one did! Wahoo!! 

Schyluer Jarman wrote:

Thanks dude! Imperial link didn’t work for some reason. But the metric one did! Wahoo!! 

There’s a lot of other good info on the moon board website.

Zachary Bright wrote:

So I’m going to use some random osb I have from a construction project for the next sections. 

I've pulled a T-nut right through sheathing-thickness OSB. And I'm not a big guy. There's a reason why no gym or training board is built on OSB.

Gunkiemike wrote:

I've pulled a T-nut right through sheathing-thickness OSB. And I'm not a big guy. There's a reason why no gym or training board is built on OSB.

Everything I’ve read and listened to said NO OSB

Banged this out yesterday.
10’ long cracks of sizes #3, #2 and somewhere between #.75 and #1

Continuously variable width form Tips/.2 to .5. Shown w totems/wc zeros.
Next up, the variable angle mounting system, .75 to 3 cracks, then 4 to 6/7 cracks

adam gong wrote: Banged this out yesterday.
10’ long cracks of sizes #3, #2 and somewhere between #.75 and #1

Looks like you need to invest in more padding!  That's going to be a nasty headache.

Darin Berdinka wrote:

Looks like you need to invest in more padding!  That's going to be a nasty headache.

That’s why you always wear a helmet.

Board size is 5x9 with around a 25 degree overhand. Waiting on more holds to arrive!

Question:
I'm gonna build a small wall, because that's what all the cool kids are doing. I'm planning to do screw-ins rather than t-nuts (I don't plan on moving the holds around).

Jon Rust wrote: Question:
I'm gonna build a small wall, because that's what all the cool kids are doing. I'm planning to do screw-ins rather than t-nuts (I don't plan on moving the holds around).
The back of the wall will be accessible. Is there a structural integrity/strength reason not to use bolts + beefy washers for some of the holds?

why bother if you aren't going to move the holds around? you will never use it because one set get boring pretty much immediately. i mean if you need a project go for it. but you might as well do it right and get t-nuts.

Well, you don't move the holds around on a Tension Board, Moon Board, campus board or hangboard either. It has to be small -- 8x7 -- too small to be "real" wall. I also have 3 gyms within 15 minutes of my house that will reopen (hopefully) eventually. So it will be some kind of hybrid of campus/HIT strips/regular wall, mirrored, with homemade wood holds; a training system rather than a standard wall.

Jon Rust wrote: Well, you don't move the holds around on a Tension Board, Moon Board, campus board or hangboard either. It has to be small -- 8x7 -- too small to be "real" wall. I also have 3 gyms within 15 minutes of my house that will reopen (hopefully) eventually. So it will be some kind of hybrid of campus/HIT strips/regular wall, mirrored, with homemade wood holds; a training system rather than a standard wall.
Anyway, bolts & washers?

This is one of those situations where right now, you’ll think they’ll never switch places, but between eventually washing the holds (non-wood)  that get caked with chalk, and changing the layout, you might kick yourself later for not doing a little extra work initially of a T nut grid that will save you headaches in the future. This will give you more options for larger holds like someone else mentioned, plus ease of removal and install at any point. Leave the screw-ons for feet or small crimps. Even if all you plan to put is wood holds in a mass layout, it’s so much easier to adjust from the front with a threaded bolt vs clamping it with a nut on the back. Just my 2 cents. 

Auden Alsop wrote:

I’m doing the same, the only thing I can really think of is that any hold over a certain width is going to be impossible to mount unless you use obscenely long screws. If you’re sticking to small crimps and pinches, and using sufficient screws, I don’t see a problem.

fwiw big screw on holds often come w/ the appropriate screws needed to mount them

Hi I’m wondering if I could get a consult from some better than complete amateur builders. I’m building an adjustable moonboard in my garage after some inspiration from this forum. The below sloppy diagram shows the two angle variations. I was planning to chain the top of my board to the beam in my garage about 85” high. It seems like an appropriate angle for the 40 degree but possibly way too sharp an angle for the 25 degree. Any possible suggestions on how to chain the 25 degree? Would chaining it about 2/3 of the way up the board be acceptable? Chain it from the ceiling beams instead? (The board doesn’t actually hit the ceiling of the garage at 25 degrees)