Zion Beginner Trad Routes?

I've been warned that there's not much in the ways of what I'm looking for, but I'm going on a group camping trip to Zion next month and would love to get a little climbing in. I've only got a few pitches of leading under my belt and am hoping to get a few more before I go. I'm looking to probably stay in the range of 5.6-5.7. All I've found so far that looks promising is Led By Sheep. Maybe that's all I'm going to find. Would also be interested in any sport 5.10- and under.

I know I can just look at MP and other resources, I'm curious what locals might recommend, if anything. Thanks! 

Most of Zion is 5.10+ Trad.
In your range, here are a few to consider;
Casual route 5.4
Led by Sheep 5.6
Cowboy Ridge 5.7

As far as sport in ZNP, very few blots in the main canyon. Kolab Canyon is your best option for sport in the park, but only a few routes under 5.11.
Look to the surrounding areas (St. George) for more routes in your ability, there are tons outside the park. Lambs Knoll is the closest sport crag, just outside the park.

Gina Penguinn wrote: I've been warned that there's not much in the ways of what I'm looking for, but I'm going on a group camping trip to Zion next month and would love to get a little climbing in. I've only got a few pitches of leading under my belt and am hoping to get a few more before I go. I'm looking to probably stay in the range of 5.6-5.7. All I've found so far that looks promising is Led By Sheep.

I'll assume you've read the description, but just in case you missed it, are  you ready for run-outs?

four bolts on the first 200 foot 5.6 pitch.
next pitch with three bolts placed in 150 foot 5.5 pitch.
third pitch was probably the crux, 5.7 200 feet with four bolts.
forth pitch is 5.5 with two bolts in about 100 feet.

Leb by Sheep is really casual and fun, and could be combined with Keyhole canyon (short, easy first technical canyon, though you need permits) for a great day. Lady mountain ( mountainproject.com/route/1…) is a super fun desert "mountaineering" adventure that takes you up one of the big walls with 3 pitches of easy trad climbing and lots of 3rd class/some 4th class. Like a longer Angel's landing without the crowds.

B Jolley wrote: Most of Zion is 5.10+ Trad.
In your range, here are a few to consider;
Casual route 5.4
Led by Sheep 5.6
Cowboy Ridge 5.7

As far as sport in ZNP, very few blots in the main canyon. Kolab Canyon is your best option for sport in the park, but only a few routes under 5.11.
Look to the surrounding areas (St. George) for more routes in your ability, there are tons outside the park. Lambs Knoll is the closest sport crag, just outside the park.

Thanks for the recommendations! I'm not sure if me and my partner will have a car and the ability to travel out of the park on our own. Not sure on our carpool situation yet. I will definitely check out those areas just in case though! 

Marc801 C wrote: I'll assume you've read the description, but just in case you missed it, are  you ready for run-outs?

four bolts on the first 200 foot 5.6 pitch.
next pitch with three bolts placed in 150 foot 5.5 pitch.
third pitch was probably the crux, 5.7 200 feet with four bolts.
forth pitch is 5.5 with two bolts in about 100 feet.

Yeah, maybe I'm wrong, but the description reminded me a bit of snake dike which I've followed and am hoping to lead in June so I thought Led By Sheep might be good practice.

Andrew Mertens wrote: Leb by Sheep is really casual and fun, and could be combined with Keyhole canyon (short, easy first technical canyon, though you need permits) for a great day. Lady mountain ( mountainproject.com/route/1…) is a super fun desert "mountaineering" adventure that takes you up one of the big walls with 3 pitches of easy trad climbing and lots of 3rd class/some 4th class. Like a longer Angel's landing without the crowds.

I really didn't think about much outside of climbing, but I can think of some non-climbers that would be interested in technical canyons and mountaineering. Thanks for the alternate adventure options! 

Gina Penguinn wrote:

I really didn't think about much outside of climbing, but I can think of some non-climbers that would be interested in technical canyons and mountaineering. Thanks for the alternate adventure options! 

Yeah, the easy Zion canyons (Keyhole, Pine creek, Birch hollow->orderville->narrows) are an easy/fun transition for climbers as they have fixed anchors. Good info: https://www.canyoneeringusa.com/zion/intro. You'll just need know-how to ascend ropes as well as rent a wet or dry suit. I don't want to sandbag, but Led By Sheep is much easier/less run out than Snake Dike (and much much shorter). Maybe there is some 5.6 right by bolts but most of the run-outs are on 5.3 friction, and I honestly don't remember any of them feeling particularly long.

The Confluence and Practice cliffs are what you're looking for. Led by Sheep is not a very good place to learn to trad climb IMO.    

B Jolley wrote: Most of Zion is 5.10+ Trad.
In your range, here are a few to consider;
Casual route 5.4
Led by Sheep 5.6
Cowboy Ridge 5.7

As far as sport in ZNP, very few blots in the main canyon. Kolab Canyon is your best option for sport in the park, but only a few routes under 5.11.
Look to the surrounding areas (St. George) for more routes in your ability, there are tons outside the park. Lambs Knoll is the closest sport crag, just outside the park.

Thanks for this info. I'm in the same boat as OP, and these routes all look fun to me. I'll be in Zion sometime within the next 2 weeks, and need to find partners willing to climb these.

Andy Novak wrote: The Confluence and Practice cliffs are what you're looking for. Led by Sheep is not a very good place to learn to trad climb IMO.    

Thanks I'll check those areas out!

Also, I'm assuming since Zion is a pretty popular area, MP is pretty current and populated in terms of the routes available, but I would be happy to buy a guidebook if anyone can recommend one they think might be particularly good for me.

Mike S wrote:

Thanks for this info. I'm in the same boat as OP, and these routes all look fun to me. I'll be in Zion sometime within the next 2 weeks, and need to find partners willing to climb these.

Awesome! Sounds like I'm going about 2 weeks after you.  Please let me know how your trip went!

Gina Penguinn wrote: Thanks I'll check those areas out!

Also, I'm assuming since Zion is a pretty popular area, MP is pretty current and populated in terms of the routes available, but I would be happy to buy a guidebook if anyone can recommend one they think might be particularly good for me.

Zion; Free and Clean by Bryan Bird (Supertopo).   

http://www.supertopo.com/packs/zion-climbing.html

Zion is not a beginner-friendly place, go elsewhere if that is the experience you are looking for/ready for.

The base of the great white throne has some easier stuff. There is also a crag called the Practice Cliff that offers some beginner terrain.

Greg Gavin wrote: The base of the great white throne has some easier stuff. There is also a crag called the Practice Cliff that offers some beginner terrain.

I think the great white throne will be closed while I'm there but I'll double check! I did take a look at practice cliff and it looks promising! Thanks for the advice! 

Gina Penguinn wrote:

I think the great white throne will be closed while I'm there but I'll double check! I did take a look at practice cliff and it looks promising! Thanks for the advice! 

Generally that closure is for everything 2 pitches up and higher. Checking with the visitors center climbing ranger is always the best idea. Have fun and be safe!

Check out the Lambs Knoll area.  It is about a 30 minute drive outside of the main park.  There are some mild sport climbs and beginner canyoneering routes there   I wouldn't mess with adventure climbing Cowboy Ridge or Led by Sheep until you are more confident & comfortable with trad climbing, runouts, route finding etc. 

1) Cowboy Ridge: is nothing close to a beginners climb, it’s desert alpine and quite an undertaking.
2) Led by Sheep: has zero worthwhile gear placements, but, is a fun route to clip the “occasional” bolt. The approach is scarier than the climb.

St George has far better “beginner” trad leads.

The practice cliffs are the only place you can go in Zion for non-runout beginner climbing and even then... the routes aren't a cakewalk. I'd look into lamb's knoll as it has a lot of good stuff with great views. Be ready to be overwhelmed with tour groups though.

Zion had an inch and a half of rain this morning.

It is not beginner friendly either. In fact most desert climbing is way serious.