Chipped Classics

How classic routes do you know that are chipped/glued? Just curious (and bored).

Ottos Route!

I know the crux sloper on Meadowlark Lemon in Red Rocks got chipped sometime after the FA. I've seen some people claim ascents recently and I wonder if the grade is changed, although I havn't seen anyone mention the chipping in recent claims of ascents ...

The Nose, El Capitan

Tradiban wrote: Ottos Route!

Climbing ethics had not been invented in 1912.

If you count pin scars as chipping then this number will go up into the thousands. Many routes are only "routes" (at least at moderate grades) because of their pin scars.

Example A: Serenity/Sons in Yosemite

Fritz Nuffer wrote:

Climbing ethics had not been invented in 1912.

Otto knew what he was doing was wrong!

Sons Of Yesterday, Green A, Black Massacre, Dr. Yes.....

Fritz Nuffer wrote:

Climbing ethics had not been invented in 1912.

Ethics were never invented youth. They live in our soul.

Serenity is an abomination and Sons was aggressive/aid-assisted cleaning & climbing & still one of the most accessible fun-hog routes, & not just anywhere! ______________ In the m)Fo valley!

Lines of Drilled pockets; Manufactured climbs @The Hood @ Mnt Charleston outside of las vegas

Everything at Ten Sleep.

Brian Sundermann wrote:EVERYTHING @ ~>TEN SLEEP.

Says  chipped " CLASSICS" 

Classics is relative.  Every area has their own "classics", even 30-foot shit-heaps.

every boulder problem in CO

Brian Sundermann wrote: Classics is relative.  Every area has their own "classics", even 30-foot shit-heaps.

I'm sure I don't know what classic means, but 30-foot shit-heaps . . . . 

Does a route being chipped detract from it being classic (maybe just for you)?

Pretty much every 13a and up at Smith. (Excepting the basalt)

Seth Bleazard wrote: Does a route being chipped detract from it being classic (maybe just for you)?

Chipping instantly ruins "classic" status for me.

Greg Kosinski wrote: I know the crux sloper on Meadowlark Lemon in Red Rocks got chipped sometime after the FA. I've seen some people claim ascents recently and I wonder if the grade is changed, although I havn't seen anyone mention the chipping in recent claims of ascents ...

Meadowlark Lemon was originally graded V15 and finished up and to the right. Later, people discovered a new beta for the top out that finished straight up the face. This brought the grade down to V14. After the crux hold was chipped, several have lowered the grade down to V13. However, recently Drew Ruana re-established the original right exit and called it V14. On top of this there is a seperate debate on what the stand start should be rated. Take all of this how you will. 

In spite of all of this, it seems that the problem has retained it's classic status and is still a coveted project for many climbers. The chipped crux hold has definitely made it more... accessible to the public. 

Chipped routes I’ve liked.
1.  El Capitan nose
2. Pocket route @ undisclosed location (home of WA States 1st 5.13 sport route) best movement I’ve felt outside of Europe.
3. Most sport routes on earth that are hard.

What percentage of sport routes 5.13 and up are chipped?