Mountain Project Logo

Chipped Classics

Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,620
Seth Bleazard wrote: Does a route being chipped detract from it being classic (maybe just for you)?

Chipping instantly ruins "classic" status for me.

Russ Walling · · Overlord @ FishProducts · Joined Oct 2004 · Points: 3,436

Valhalla at Suicide

Dylan Demyanek · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 2,622
Greg Kosinski wrote: I know the crux sloper on Meadowlark Lemon in Red Rocks got chipped sometime after the FA. I've seen some people claim ascents recently and I wonder if the grade is changed, although I havn't seen anyone mention the chipping in recent claims of ascents ...

Meadowlark Lemon was originally graded V15 and finished up and to the right. Later, people discovered a new beta for the top out that finished straight up the face. This brought the grade down to V14. After the crux hold was chipped, several have lowered the grade down to V13. However, recently Drew Ruana re-established the original right exit and called it V14. On top of this there is a seperate debate on what the stand start should be rated. Take all of this how you will. 

In spite of all of this, it seems that the problem has retained it's classic status and is still a coveted project for many climbers. The chipped crux hold has definitely made it more... accessible to the public. 
Jens K. · · San Diego, CA · Joined May 2009 · Points: 185

Chipped routes I’ve liked.
1.  El Capitan nose
2. Pocket route @ undisclosed location (home of WA States 1st 5.13 sport route) best movement I’ve felt outside of Europe.
3. Most sport routes on earth that are hard.

Seth Bleazard · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2018 · Points: 399

What percentage of sport routes 5.13 and up are chipped?

MisterE Wolfe · · Bishop, CA · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 7,519

Scarface, Smith Rock.

Kevin Bradford · · Jackson, WY · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 177

Choke cherry eyes-wild iris

Old lady H · · Boise, ID · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 1,165

How about an entire area? Good cautionary tale here.

Is it "classic"? We'll never know.

Best, Helen

Benjamin Chapman · · Small Town, USA · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 14,066

Mike Paul chipped Stingray in Joshua Tree.

Greg Kosinski · · Minneapolis, MN · Joined May 2015 · Points: 46

As I continue ignoring sport climbs in favor of boulders, The Flatiron at Devils Lake (in my opinion THE classic boulder of the area) is supposedly chipped. Also its supposed to be the only boulder John Gill ever chipped. He supposedly regretted it, and I think by definition a route as a whole is better if it is not chipped, but I do think the movement on that boulder is better with how he changed it.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Sport Climbing
Post a Reply to "Chipped Classics"

Log In to Reply