Best Midwest/Ontario Crag for a Beginner

Well, she finally said it. She wants to try climbing.

But it's not that simple.

She doesn't want to go anywhere with people around, and she's never climbed before. Are there any spots that you know of that are:

1. Mostly free of people
2. Easy (like 5.5 or easier)
3. Hopefully have a good view of surrounding scenery
4. Have a decent amount of easy climbing
5. Within 6-7 hours of metro Detroit

Canada is valid. I hope that wherever we go, it makes a positive impact on her and have her wanting more...

have you been to Grand Ledge? mountainproject.com/area/10… . I don't know if I would describe it as the "the best" of anything besides being within driving distance of Detroit.

I think you're looking for a gym.  When she is pumped out of her mind after 1-2 routes because she's all arms, you'll be glad you didn't spend time setting anchors and doing an approach.  Not to mention its going to be less than ideal weather for a new climber for a while yet.

Matt S wrote: I think you're looking for a gym. 

She said specifically no gym, violates rule 1

The Swamp in Ontario should check most of the boxes

Sounds like your headache is just beginning...

Can you go to Planet Rock first thing in the morning? There won't be many people at 9am on a Saturday

Tell me where you found all that "5.5 and easier" climbing at The Swamp?  Not to mention the 40 minute approach.

If you are going to Ontario, Rattlesnake Point/Bottleglass Cliff/Buffalo Crag might work.  Bolted top rope anchors are in place on every climb.  Stay away on the weekend, definitely crowded, but on weekdays you can find a little solitude if you walk some distance along the wall from the access points.  Bottleglass is particularly new climber friendly, as the routes are relatively short and access is quick and easy.  There are views to be had.

Mike Grainger wrote: Tell me where you found all that "5.5 and easier" climbing at The Swamp?  Not to mention the 40 minute approach.

If you are going to Ontario, Rattlesnake Point/Bottleglass Cliff/Buffalo Crag might work.  Bolted top rope anchors are in place on every climb.  Stay away on the weekend, definitely crowded, but on weekdays you can find a little solitude if you walk some distance along the wall from the access points.  Bottleglass is particularly new climber friendly, as the routes are relatively short and access is quick and easy.  There are views to be had.

The charts show 8 routes <= 5.6. And grades there are gentler than other ON crags. So not tons, but a few options. 

It's a long approach, but not 40 unless you've got some pretty serious physical limitations. OP mentioned no crowds first and more than once. If there's a Midwest crag with easy climbs, short approach, and mostly 'free of people', I've never heard of it. My understanding of rattlesnake is that there are often waiting lines for routes.

Have you actually climbed or looked at any of the 5.5 / 5.6 routes you are referencing?  There are perhaps 2 of them I would consider suitable for a beginner. Chimneys, offwidths and untopropeable ridge climbs really don’t fill the bill. To the approach (call it 30 minutes if you like) you can add another 30 minutes of talus hopping to get to the walls where these routes are located. Doesn’t sound like a great prospect for significant other bliss to me.
Yes it gets busy at the Milton area crags on the weekend but among the three crags I mentioned there are 47 routes graded from 5.0 to 5.5. Granted some of these are not beginner friendly either but I think the odds of finding some good options available are reasonable. 

I defer to the passion of my esteemed colleague. 

in the UP is a pretty good bet. It's been getting more crowded over the last few years, but there's plenty of bolted 5.fun under the rainbow roof and free camping. If having other people is around is a deal breaker, check out some of the smaller crags around Marquette.