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Routes in Silver Mountain

1. That Shitty Mossy Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
10. Between A Block And A Hard Place S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
11. Dripping With Cooties S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
12. More Cowbell S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
13. Indecent Exposure S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
14. God Bless Stretchy Pants S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
15. Silver Sweetness S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
16. Best Seat In The House S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
17.a. Silver Gold S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
17.b Silver Sickness S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
18. Revenge Of The Barking Spiders S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
19. Pepsi Showers S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
2. High Gravity Day S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
20. Crack Debit Or Credit S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
21. Welcome to the 906 S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
22. Sloth-Like Reflexes S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
23.a. Golden Heart S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
23.b Golden Heart Direct S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
23.c. Golden Heart Bypass S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
24.a. Anal Dwelling Butt Monkeys (ADBM) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
24.b. "ADBM" Direct S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
24.c "ADBM" S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
24.d. "ADBM" Second Pitch S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
25. Beyond Hell, Above Heaven S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
26. Intergalatic STD's S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
27. Alpha Nerd S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
28. Sexus (aka The Diagonal Crack) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
29. Footloose (aka The Sport Route) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
3. Ten Meters of Teamwork S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
30. Queen Bee S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
31. Swamp Thing S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
32. Love Street S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
33. Hooters (aka Resurrection) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
34. Matrix (aka Buck Angel Crack) T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
4. Yo Momma S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
5. Yo Sister S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
6. Super Mario's Magic Mushroom S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
7. Geriatric Death Metal S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
8. Rainbow Catwalk S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
9. Carpe Dildo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Big Laughing Gym T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mosquito Bait V4 6B
Sneaking Past the Guard V5 6C
Yo Momma's Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Description

A sheer, 140-foot tall basalt cliff in the heart of the Ottawa National Forest containing many quality sport and several fun trad routes. Well-protected with all stainless bolts and hangers. Grades 5.6-5.12d (something for everyone!) with several two-pitch routes. You can drive almost right up to the rock, and dispersed camping is allowed for up to 16 days in the national forest. Gas, groceries and other basic necessities available within a 25 minute drive.

Silver Mountain, a dark mysterious wall located deep in the recess of the Sturgeon River Gorge Wilderness-the heart of the Upper Peninsula. One must make the journey down forested gravel roads, out of sight from the small coastal town below, deep into mosquito country, deep into the dark woods full of hunting shacks and hermits. Deep into your next adventure.

Climbing Season
The season here is technically year-round, as there is ice that forms for midwinter bliss, but the road is not plowed and either a long ski, a quick sled ride or, for fuck’s sake, a miserable snowshoe is needed…
In reality, the spring and the summer are par, but autumn is the time to climb here. The spring can be muddy and wet with the lake effect snows only beginning to melt out by April. Summer can be lovely in the shaded woods as far as temps and humidity go for the upper Midwest, but god awful brutal when it comes to the flying insect population. Bring a head net to climb in, a bug suit to belay in, and a screen tent to party in. It’s the only way to survive the onslaught. There are black flies, mosquitoes, no-see-ums, and other bird-like biting creatures salivating for your blood.
Autumn: heaven in the Upper Peninsula they say, beautiful autumnal colors, sending temps for your proj, and no bugs because the first frost just killed them all. September and October are the two months worth making a plan, conspiring with your belay slave, and tying in at Silver Mountain.

Getting There

There are numerous ways to get to Silver Mountain.  Google should get your there, but here’s backups.

            From the West: Drive to Kenton, MI on highway M-28. Just east of town across the East Branch Ontanogan River head north on County Rd/FF/FH 16 for 6.3 miles. Turn right heading dew east on S. Laird Rd (L-137). As soon as this road turns and heads due north be on the look out for a right turn onto FR 2276 heading dew east again till it T’s into FR 2270/193 (1.8 miles). Turn right and  head south for .9 miles to FR 922. Look for 2 track on the left to climber cul-dae-sac, 100 yds before Silver Mtn trailhead.

            From the south: Drive to Sidnaw, MI on highway M-28. Immediately east of the town you will turn north onto Forest Road (FR) 2200 (191), AKA Pequet Lake Rd/Sturgeon Gorge Rd. The intersection is marked by a brown sign on the northeast side of the road. Follow signs to Silver Mountain (17 miles, all dirt road). RESET THE TRIP METER WHEN YOU TURN OFF M-28. At mile 2.2 from M-28, veer right to stay on Sturgeon Gorge Rd/FR 2200 (191). At mile 12.6, turn left onto FR 2270 (193). At mile 17, turn left onto FR 922 (marked by a brown Silver Mountain sign right of the road). After about 100 yards on FR 922 (halfway to the parking lot), look for a 2-track on the left. Follow the 2-track about 400yd to the climber cul-de-sac. This is definitely the most scenic way to get to Silver, crossing the Sturgeon River twice and revealing views of the gorge as you pass the Bear’s Den Overlook. *Alternatively, you can also take the Plains Rd. and cutacross roads.

            From the north and east: Drive to Baraga, MI on US-41. At the only light in Barage, which is a blinking light, turn west on M-38 and RESET THE TRIP METER. Drive 11 miles on M-38, then turn left (south) onto Prickett Dam Rd.  Follow the brown Forest Service signs to Silver Mountain (9 miles, all dirt road). At mi 14 turn right onto FR 2270 (marked by a large white and green Hydro Plant Project sign) “Silver 6 mi” sign. Stay straight passing a “Silver 4 mi” sign and then a “Silver 2 mi”.  Turn right onto FR 922 (brown Silver Mountain sign).  After about 100 yards on FR 922 (halfway to the parking lot), look for a 2-track on the left. Follow the 2-track about 400 yards to the climber cul-de-sac.

If you don’t want to take the 2-track, park at the Silver Mtn trailhead and walk left along the cliff base or back up the two track on the white blazed trail.

44 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Silver Mountain

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 12
21. Welcome to the 906
Sport
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 9
20. Crack Debit Or Credit
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 3
4. Yo Momma
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 3
28. Sexus (aka The Diagonal Crack)
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 17
10. Between A Block And A Hard Place
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 5
25. Beyond Hell, Above Heaven
Sport 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 5
30. Queen Bee
Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 3
14. God Bless Stretchy Pants
Sport 2 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 3
2. High Gravity Day
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 3
5. Yo Sister
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 3
23.a. Golden Heart
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 3
24.d. "ADBM" Second Pitch
Sport 2 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 3
7. Geriatric Death Metal
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 3
12. More Cowbell
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 3
11. Dripping With Cooties
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
21. Welcome to the 906
 12
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
20. Crack Debit Or Credit
 9
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
4. Yo Momma
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
28. Sexus (aka The Diagona…
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
10. Between A Block And A…
 17
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
25. Beyond Hell, Above Heaven
 5
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches
30. Queen Bee
 5
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
14. God Bless Stretchy Pants
 3
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport 2 pitches
2. High Gravity Day
 3
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
5. Yo Sister
 3
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
23.a. Golden Heart
 3
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
24.d. "ADBM" Second Pitch
 3
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport 2 pitches
7. Geriatric Death Metal
 3
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
12. More Cowbell
 3
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
11. Dripping With Cooties
 3
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Silver Mountain »

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
climbing2man Dispensa
Harrogate, TN
climbing2man Dispensa   Harrogate, TN
There are tons of more routes here! They are just not logged online. Two awesome. Multi-pitch routes are also here at Silver! Sep 10, 2014
jon jugenheimer
Madison, WI
jon jugenheimer   Madison, WI  
This place is a gem for the Midwest! Get there, climb and help keep the routes clean! Sep 23, 2015
Mike Robinson
Boulder, CO
Mike Robinson   Boulder, CO
I'll second Jon's comment. Quite a gem of a crag with a bunch of quality routes for people driving thru or trying to make a weekend out of it. A bit buggy in the spring and we all pulled ticks off of us... But that's all apart of da YOOP experience huh? May 31, 2016
jon jugenheimer
Madison, WI
jon jugenheimer   Madison, WI  
I just learned that Paul and Liz, long time developers at Silver will be updating this MP page soon as well as releasing a printed guide on or before the Climb UP fest this September. Great news as this place is deserving of a proper, up to date, error free guide for us climbers to all enjoy! I can't wait to get my hands on a copy and see this database updated as well. Jul 12, 2016
Peter Bradley
Wheaton, IL
Peter Bradley   Wheaton, IL
Any new info???? Jul 6, 2017
The gps coordinates are inaccurate. Use the summit post location. Nov 22, 2017
Paul Peppin
Marquette, MI
Paul Peppin   Marquette, MI  
Very new DMM draw found under a boulder at the base of Queen Bee. Marked with color coded tape. Describe to claim. Aug 18, 2018 · Temporary Report
Natasha Jean
Milwaukee, WI
Natasha Jean   Milwaukee, WI
Hi! Looking to come up next wk to climb. Where is the best place to camp? Thanks! Sep 7, 2018
jon jugenheimer
Madison, WI
jon jugenheimer   Madison, WI  
@Natasha, the best place to camp is right there! When you are driving down the spur road to Silver, there is a dirt two track that leads off to the left. Take that, drive for 3 minutes and you will get to the end. Camp there. Note, no running water available, so you must pack everything in (and out!). Sep 8, 2018

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