Elevation: 1,143 ft
GPS: 46.66633, -88.74033
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Shared By: AJ Smith on Apr 26, 2011 · Updates
Admins: John Miller

Description

Silver Mountain is a sheer, 140-foot tall basalt cliff in the heart of the Ottawa National Forest, containing many quality sport and several fun trad routes. Well-protected with all stainless bolts and hangers. Grades 5.6-5.12d (something for everyone!) with several two-pitch routes. You can drive almost right up to the rock, and dispersed camping is allowed for up to 16 days in the national forest. Gas, groceries and other basic necessities available within a 25 minute drive.

There are no toilet facilities, so please plan ahead to practice Leave No Trace ethics. (In 2021, the forest service did provided a porta-potty at trailhead. ***DO NOT dig a cathole just outside the camping area. 

Climbing Seasons:

Spring (May/June):  Silver can only be accessed by car or truck once the seasonal roads have dried.  Just cuz ya got 4x4, don’t push it…many have paid the hefty price for a tow! The temps are good, 50s-60s F. There’s always a chance of bugs so be prepared. The Mountain seeps for weeks even after the snow is gone.

Summer (July/August):   Expect beautiful 60s-90s F.  But, the U.P. can be godawful brutal when it comes to the flying insect population.  Bring long sleeves, pants, head nets, 100% DEET, a shotgun, and a screen tent to party in.  It’s the only way to survive the onslaught. There are black flies, mosquitoes, no-see-ums, and other bird-like biting creatures salivating for your blood up here. They have been known to carry off children and small animals.  Don’t forget it’s a black cliff with southern exposure so your toes and pads will be the limiting factor due to the heat of the rock. You can fry an egg on the ledges when it’s full sun and no wind!

Fall (September and October):  Temps are comfortable in the 60s-70s F.  Heaven in the Upper Peninsula with beautiful autumn colors, perfect sending temps for your proj, and no bugs because the first frost just sent them all back to hell where they belong.  Defiantly worth abducting a belay slave and making a trip to Silver Mountain.

Winter (November-April):  Can be climbed till the snow fly’s for most Yooper’s.  When the snow hits, Silver can only be accessed by snowmobile, or it’s a 4 mile snowshoe or ski one way. ABSOLUTELY NO DRY TOOLING on established routes!!!

Getting There

There are numerous ways to get to Silver Mountain. Google should get your there if you type in Silver Mountain, MI, but here’s backups.          

From the West: Drive to Kenton, MI on highway M-28. Just east of town across the East Branch Ontanogan River head north on County Rd/FF/FH 16 for 6.3 miles. Turn right heading due east on S. Laird Rd (L-137) for 5.9 miles. As soon as this road turns and heads due north be on the look out for a right turn onto FR 2276 (1,000 feet after turn) heading due east again till it T’s into FR 2270/193 (1.8 miles). Turn right and  head south for .9 miles to FR 922. Look for 2 track on the left to climber cul-dae-sac, 100 yds before Silver Mtn trailhead.          

From the south: Drive to Sidnaw, MI on highway M-28. Immediately east of the town you'll turn north onto Forest Road (FR) 2200 (191), AKA Pequet Lake Rd/Sturgeon Gorge Rd. The intersection is marked by a brown sign on the northeast side of the road. Follow signs to Silver Mountain (17 miles, all dirt road). RESET THE TRIP METER WHEN YOU TURN OFF M-28. At mile 2.2 from M-28, veer right to stay on Sturgeon Gorge Rd/FR 2200 (191). At mile 12.6, turn left onto FR 2270 (193). At mile 17, turn left onto FR 922 (marked by a brown Silver Mountain sign right of the road). After about 100 yards on FR 922 (halfway to the parking lot), look for a 2-track on the left. Follow the 2-track about 400yd to the climber cul-de-sac. This is definitely the most scenic way to get to Silver, crossing the Sturgeon River twice and revealing views of the gorge as you pass the Bear’s Den Overlook. *Alternatively, you can also take the Plains Rd. and cutacross roads.            

From the north and east: Drive to Baraga, MI on US-41. At the only light in Barage, which is a blinking light, turn west on M-38 and RESET THE TRIP METER. Drive 11 miles on M-38, then turn left (south) onto Prickett Dam Rd.  Follow the brown Forest Service signs to Silver Mountain (9 miles, all dirt road). At mi 14 turn right onto FR 2270 (marked by a large white and green Hydro Plant Project sign) “Silver 6 mi” sign. Stay straight passing a “Silver 4 mi” sign and then a “Silver 2 mi”.  Turn right onto FR 922 (brown Silver Mountain sign).  After about 100 yards on FR 922 (halfway to the parking lot), look for a 2-track on the left. Follow the 2-track about 400 yards to the climber cul-de-sac.

If you don’t want to take the 2-track, park at the Silver Mtn Trailhead (GPS: 46.667290, -88.737264) )and walk left along the cliff base or back up the two track on the white blazed trail.

*** Poison Ivy ***

EVERYTHING between Wine Line till just past Ivy's Poison is part of the patch, in fact the whole boulder field in that area is.  This is THE only ivy patch at Silver rest assured.

58 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Silver Mountain

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 39
22. Crack Debit Or Credit
Sport
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 28
21. Pepsi Showers
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 19
10. Carpe Dildo
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 63
11. Between A Block And A Hard…
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 41
27. Beyond Hell, Above Heaven
Sport 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 44
32a. Queen Bee
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 14
15. God Bless Stretchy Pants
Sport 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 29
25a. Golden Heart
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 12
28b. Intergalatic STDs
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 25
32b. Queen Bee Extension
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 21
31. Footloose (aka The Sport Ro…
Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 20
8. Geriatric Death Metal
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 27
12. Dripping With Cooties
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 11
18b. Silver Sickness
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 3
25b. Golden Heart Direct
Sport 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
22. Crack Debit Or Credit Main Wall
 39
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
21. Pepsi Showers Main Wall
 28
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport
10. Carpe Dildo Main Wall
 19
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
11. Between A Block And A… Main Wall
 63
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
27. Beyond Hell, Above Heaven Main Wall
 41
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches
32a. Queen Bee Main Wall
 44
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
15. God Bless Stretchy Pants Main Wall
 14
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches
25a. Golden Heart Main Wall
 29
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
28b. Intergalatic STDs Main Wall
 12
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
32b. Queen Bee Extension Main Wall
 25
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
31. Footloose (aka The Spo… Main Wall
 21
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
8. Geriatric Death Metal Main Wall
 20
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
12. Dripping With Cooties Main Wall
 27
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
18b. Silver Sickness Main Wall
 11
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
25b. Golden Heart Direct Main Wall
 3
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport 2 pitches
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