Testing protocols?

Simple request. I'm finally starting to train seriously, mostly to stave off arthritis, honestly, but my climbing will benefit too, of course.

As I'm pretty weak now, gains will be fast, and slow down later. I'd really like to get some numbers down right away, and make that progress measurable. Anyone have a simple testing protocol they recommend, that I could do at Planet Fitness, with the help of a friend?

Thanks! Helen

Some ideas-
for general fitness, maybe test the four basic movements- squat, hinge, push and pull.
Ideally you'll want to know your 1RM, but testing this may be too intense for a beginner, so perhaps go for your 3RM as a measure.

I'm assuming you don't know how to lift, so formal squats and deadlifts are out.
You could use the leg press machine for squats and I'm pretty sure there's a back extension machine.
These will be relatively safe.
Get some instruction form the gym if you can.

For push, you could choose between push-ups or overhead press, the latter with dumbbells, since it's easier on the shoulders and you may have pretty asymmetric strength.
Overhead press can be hard on the shoulders if you have any impingement or inflexibility.
But push ups are kind of useless wrt climbing as far as I'm concerned.

Pull ups are the obvious choice for a pull test.
If you can't do a pull up, then test on a lat pulldown machine.

For climbing related strength, hang from an 18-20mm edge (metolius small rung is 18mm) with max weight for 7 seconds.
If you can't do a bodyweight hang on this edge, then use a pulley to remove weight.

A test of explosive power would be nice, but unless you feel comfortable campusing (which you SHOULD'NT!) I can't think of a good test.

A cardio baseline might be useful. I'd say your one mile run time, but don't know if your knees are up for that.

You might want to pester rgold to respond.
He seems to have a pretty well thought out training regimen.

Thanks, Mark! I'm learning lifts, actually! There are machines for everything, but it's nice to learn with weights.

I do have one number. Max single rep on bench press is 70#. Not great, but a start.

I'm hoping to get someone to do this with me, I know it would go better, and timing stuff is easier. We'll see.

No gym right now, so no hangboard, campus board, any of that. Sometime in February.....

Rgold is flat out inspiring. Or intimidating. Or both, lol!

Best, Helen

I started working out more seriously a couple of years ago when I turned 40.

Just writing down what you do is not a terrible idea.  

It's simple and the only real feedback I need is "am I doing better or worse", and clearly at my age and phsyique I benefit enough by just simply hitting the gym regularly and making sure that I complete workouts.  So (personally) "benchmarking" off that isn't super useful to me.  I'm not a pro nor am I trying to be, I just want to hold myself to some accountability with regards to going to the gym, which I find pretty boring.

I found a workout that I liked (mostly the "stabilizer" and "core" stuff from Eric Horst's "Training for Climbing", plus 2x45 min bouldering sessions before the workout) and then I just keep a lot of notes in a notebook that goes with me to the gym:

- when I go,
- how much/hard I am working,
- how it feels, how many boulder problems/grades (in a very general way),
- if I've been fasting before,
- and if I got injured and how my various injuries are working out.

I dunno if this is then end all and be all advice, but it's what I do and I'm definitely improving.

I am going to echo Mark's suggestion to get a trainer, of course if you can swing it. Proper form is a must for pretty much all exercise.

I'd recommend you do the test after working on form - you are less likely to mess your body up. And, frankly, do you really need a test? - psychologically it helps to know that you are improving, but knowing you, you will improve.

John’s idea of just keeping a training log is a good one. Better than establishing benchmarks and then just winging it, tbh.
Every workout you know what you did before and can add weight as you can. 

Hi Helen,
If you search on Youtube & Vimeo for "weightlifting for climbers" or "antagonistic weightlifting for climbers", you'll find a gazillion videos.   I'd stick with the ones from established coaches such as Horst, Sjong, Matt Groom, etc.   Google the person's name to vet them.  Pick and choose from the videos -- stuff that looks good to you.   You can also google an overall, full-body weightlifting regime for beginners.

Since you're new to this, my advice is to start with low weight & higher reps.  All tendons, ligaments and cartilage strengthen more slowly than muscle.   You always hear about climbers injuring their finger tendons, pulleys and ligaments, and now you're going to need to be careful for ALL your joints, especially shoulders!    

For your first 6 months, at least, I'd say you should pick loads that you can handle in the 12-20 rep range, and not to failure either, just so you have to try hard.  You want overall conditioning, NOT to build a lot of muscle you won't need/want for climbing.    When the load feels easy, bump it up 10% and start lowering the reps but still, don't go to failure.  

And in advance have a max load for each movement -- you're a climber not a weightlifter!   For example, I do antagonistic lifting every week and my max for bench is 75lbs (20 reps) and shrugs 100lbs (2x20), and I'm 6'1" & 180lbs.  This results in good overall strength with a low risk of injury.   For you, you midget, benching 70lbs is damned high!    Don't get hurt.  

Helen, I did weight-lifting (free weights) for about 30 years (and mostly only stopped due to a combination of rock climbing and injuries). I'm slowly getting back into it again. I like lifting, and I have no trouble sticking with a program. I always thought of it as "keeping in shape for the day when I need it". I've mostly only ever had a desk job, and I'd be a wreck without some regular training.

I started with a program in a book by Schwarzenegger (which you may still find in a library). It was simple, hence easy to stick with. For the legs: lunges, calf raises, squats. Arms: barbell curls, triceps extensions. Back: bent over rows. Shoulders: Clean and press, dumbbell lateral raise. Chest: Bench press, dumbbell flys. 2-3 sets, about 8-12 reps each (a short rest between each set). If 12 reps is "too easy", increase the weight. At about 6 months or so in, I started training upper body and lower body separately and doing other types of lifts. To start with, I used very light weights, just to get a feel for how the lifts worked.

However, I was really young when starting, and didn't have any physical problems. If I were starting now, I'd go to someone who really knows what they're doing in terms of body mechanics and get instruction in how to correctly and safely do the moves for each lift. Some lifts are less risky than others. I don't know if I'm wrong in not trusting gym trainers from Planet Fitness (or any gym), but I wonder exactly how much training and knowledge they have. It may be hit or miss. Currently, I'm seeing a PT, and I'd totally shell out the money to someone like that to tell me if they see anything wrong with how I'm lifting or to get me started. Probably just 1-2 sessions would be enough.

I always recorded workouts so I could track my progress. I keep a 6"x9" yellow notepad. The date goes in the margin. The workout details are across from it. I only made more detailed notes when I was training for improvements. If training for maintenance, I'd just record "2 circuits lower body", for example. I also recorded any problems - "twinge right shoulder".

This is what has worked for me. I enjoy the feeling of being sore after lifting weights. I listen to my favorite music while lifting. The process was always fun for me. I think that kept me at it for so long. I hope you find a program that works for you!

Thanks, all! It's working out toward a combination of all of your suggestions, between this thread and the over 50 one.

John, the midget's 70# bench press was a single max YGD rep, lol! When I match your reps, I'll let you know, eh?

One thing the bench press made clear, the left side is lots weaker. True for my lower body also, although that was partly from compensating for the arthritis. I've got all sorts of stuff that's MIA, lol, so it definitely would be smart to find a trainer who can work with that. Climbing coaching would be nice too, but the general stuff is the most important, and I don't think I'll find all of it in one person in Boise, unlike someplace like CO. That's what will let me keep functioning at all, going forward. It really feels like do or die time on this.

With that in mind, suggestions on finding an appropriate trainer? A personal trainer would be good, but, there's also the arthritis to consider. I'm not sure a physical therapist is quite "it", either. Is there a different cert I should be looking for?

Yes to classes, music, anything at all to keep this fun. Bottom line is still, this is up to me. Make it happen, pretty much everyday.

Thanks guys, the encouragement does help more than you know.

Best, Helen

Old lady H wrote: John, the midget's 70# bench press was a single max YGD rep, lol! When I match your reps, I'll let you know, eh?

That was my point: using heavy loads without any foundation is a sure way to injure yourself.  

6 months with a much lower load, 30-40lbs and 20 reps, will build a foundation so you don't wreck your shoulders.   Certainly, you should stay with the lower loads until both sides are equal.

John Byrnes wrote: That was my point: using heavy loads without any foundation is a sure way to injure yourself.  

6 months with a much lower load, 30-40lbs and 20 reps, will build a foundation so you don't wreck your shoulders.   Certainly, you should stay with the lower loads until both sides are equal.

Thanks John! That was with a trainer. 10-20 reps is target range, it looks like. Start getting 30, bump up the weight. I did have a trainer friend help me get started, a year and a half ago, with weights I could do on my own. Problem is, I got off so long it's now almost starting over. In all fairness, my life did change pretty radically. It's not even a year yet, and the changes are ongoing. 

It is tweaking into a long-term plan, slowly! I'm pretty stoked to see where this goes. It should be a great season coming up!

I still don't know what grade I can climb, or even what styles suit me. But, as soon as the effing rain slows up and the mud subsides? I'll be out on my local crap that whips my ass.

Truly, thanks all. Super appreciate it!

Best, Helen