New and Experienced Climbers Over 50 #9

ErikaNW wrote:

Looks a lot nicer than the day we did it (in the rain)!

It was on the warm side. I poured what seemed like a bucket of sweat out of my helmet when done. 

Señor Arroz wrote: Top and bottom of Moosedog Tower, Indian Cove, J-tree.

Uh oh. That’s my wall Senor.  I meant to leave the police tape around it so everyone would leave it alone until I can get back. 

How’d it go???  Was it fun? 

Señor Arroz wrote: Lori, re. finding partners when you move to J-tree. There are a couple of Southern California FB groups I can invite you too. There are frequently people looking for climbing buddies in J-tree.

I agree that you need to devote some time to upping your game in terms of skills (besides climbing) to be a great and self-sufficient partner if you're going to climb with a random assortment of folks. All the time you've spent climbing as a client of guides is great but I think becoming self-sufficient at things like rigging, anchor building, and basic first aid means a lot. Even if you never decide to lead there are hundreds of great walk-up TR climbs in that park. 

Absolutely. I’m on it.   

Lori Milas wrote:

Uh oh. That’s my wall Senor.  I meant to leave the police tape around it so everyone would leave it alone until I can get back. 

How’d it go???  Was it fun?

Quite a few good climbs on Moosedog!
My favorite climb on Moosedog is Wandering Winnabago.

 

Lori Milas wrote:  Chris and I met a woman in Truckee who was a little bit bossy... a little too loud out at the crags... but she was looking for partners.  She had apparently done it kind of like the dating sites do... put up ads for partners, taken prospective partners out to dinner,  interviewed them, and then taken the good ones out for a spin.  As she passed through our area she complained that she had 'just lost another one'.

Danger Will Robinson 

It's hard to post anything here without acknowledging that yesterday was a tough day with the loss of Kobe.  I'm surprised how bad that hurts.  And it's certainly a reminder of the losses we have experienced in the climbing community.  This is just hard hard news.
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Thinking about becoming a capable climber and climbing partner, it's weird that it's taken these almost 10,000 posts for me to finally accept that there was no magic path.  I've felt guilty for not finding a way to 'just get out there and climb' with ordinary folks on a regular basis.  If we're writing the book on becoming a climber, then this is the missing chapter.  So, this year, as quickly (and safely) as I can, I'll work on the other skills... anchoring, rope handling, scrambling, rappelling... following and mock leading...  and certainly self-rescue and First Aid.  Any current friend/guide I know would be happy to focus on that.  I know there are group classes as well.  My belay skills are getting better by the minute, so that part is on a roll.

Funny what stands out after-the-fact.  A long march and scramble to a wall on Hemingway with rope and rack... (and food, water, backpack)... to face a 5.8 crack that Nelson had selected.  Nelson handed me my rack, I tied in on a top rope, and he sent me on my way to mock lead the route.  Place gear, just get to the top.  That day I completed that one route only... I was exhausted, miserable, worn out from one climb.     But it was exhilarating all the way, and even moreso to look back at that spire on our way back to the car.   

It took some time to realize that this isn't a sport you could just dabble at.  Maybe once you've climbed for awhile, and the trad aspects are deep in your blood, you can show up now and then.  But as a student, a learner... I need some repetition and constancy.  I hope I can give this gift of time to myself... I'd love to be just comfortable handling myself and all things rope-related.   I don't know how you all got where you are without a lot of mentoring, time and freedom.  

Having still such a limited repertoire... I'm thinking this would have taken a whole different trajectory if I had fallen in love with sport crags. (?)  I gotta think there is something unique about Joshua Tree, the terrain, the type of routes and levels of skill ... mostly trad... that make it that much harder to grow into?  Or maybe it's age...  always a great excuse.   

Lori Milas wrote: It's hard to post anything here without acknowledging that yesterday was a tough day with the loss of Kobe.  I'm surprised how bad that hurts.  And it's certainly a reminder of the losses we have experienced in the climbing community.  This is just hard hard news.
-----------

Thinking about becoming a capable climber and climbing partner, it's weird that it's taken these almost 10,000 posts for me to finally accept that there was no magic path.  I've felt guilty for not finding a way to 'just get out there and climb' with ordinary folks on a regular basis.  If we're writing the book on becoming a climber, then this is the missing chapter.  So, this year, as quickly (and safely) as I can, I'll work on the other skills... anchoring, rope handling, scrambling, rappelling... following and mock leading...  and certainly self-rescue and First Aid.  Any current friend/guide I know would be happy to focus on that.  I know there are group classes as well.  My belay skills are getting better by the minute, so that part is on a roll.

Funny what stands out after-the-fact.  A long march and scramble to a wall on Hemingway with rope and rack... (and food, water, backpack)... to face a 5.8 crack that Nelson had selected.  Nelson handed me my rack, I tied in on a top rope, and he sent me on my way to mock lead the route.  Place gear, just get to the top.  That day I completed that one route only... I was exhausted, miserable, worn out from one climb.     But it was exhilarating all the way, and even moreso to look back at that spire on our way back to the car.  

It took some time to realize that this isn't a sport you could just dabble at.  Maybe once you've climbed for awhile, and the trad aspects are deep in your blood, you can show up now and then.  But as a student, a learner... I need some repetition and constancy.  I hope I can give this gift of time to myself... I'd love to be just comfortable handling myself and all things rope-related.   I don't know how you all got where you are without a lot of mentoring, time and freedom.  

Having still such a limited repertoire... I'm thinking this would have taken a whole different trajectory if I had fallen in love with sport crags. (?)  I gotta think there is something unique about Joshua Tree, the terrain, the type of routes and levels of skill ... mostly trad... that make it that much harder to grow into?  Or maybe it's age...  always a great excuse.  

Lori - just want to also add that it isn’t all or none. You don’t have to be ‘expert’ at rigging/anchoring or leading to go out with non-guide climbers. Just be honest about your abilities/skill set and they can decide if they want to climb with you and also do some mentoring along the way. I often climb with new climbers who don’t have those skills. All I require is a safe belay. But I also know upfront and have an expectation of what the day will be like and choose routes/areas accordingly. I usually end up doing some instruction along the way. Why would I do this? Because these are people I like being around! That’s way more important to me than whether they can build an anchor. 

What I’m saying is, don’t wait until you feel you have all of those skills in place to climb with non-guide partners. Just get out there and do it! 

ErikaNW wrote:

Lori - just want to also add that it isn’t all or none. You don’t have to be ‘expert’ at rigging/anchoring or leading to go out with non-guide climbers. Just be honest about your abilities/skill set and they can decide if they want to climb with you and also do some mentoring along the way. I often climb with new climbers who don’t have those skills. All I require is a safe belay. But I also know upfront and have an expectation of what the day will be like and choose routes/areas accordingly. I usually end up doing some instruction along the way. Why would I do this? Because these are people I like being around! That’s way more important to me than whether they can build an anchor. 

What I’m saying is, don’t wait until you feel you have all of those skills in place to climb with non-guide partners. Just get out there and do it! 

Thanks, Erika. For sure.  It'll be some of each... already I climb with non-guide friends--it's just too seldom though.

I remember putting my kids on bicycles with training wheels... one day they each were just ready to go on their own without my pushing.  They knew when they were ready.  I should have realized climbing would be like that.      

Lori Milas wrote:

Thanks, Erika. For sure.  It'll be some of each... already I climb with non-guide friends--it's just too seldom though.

I remember putting my kids on bicycles with training wheels... one day they each were just ready to go on their own without my pushing.  They knew when they were ready.  I should have realized climbing would be like that.      

Cool - sounds like you are all set!

Lori Milas wrote:
Please keep us updated!

This winter we are doing the Ikon Ski Pass tour.  Copper Mountain (staying in Breckenridge CO), Steamboat CO, Alta/Briton/Deer Valley near Salt Lake City (there now). Jackson Hole WY, Crystal Mountain/Snoqualmie Pass WA (lots of family activities), Squaw Valley(   we'll be staying in Truckee), April is kind of open right now, May will be Kayak guides at Cove Palisades SP near Smith Rock SP.  July 19-27 I snagged a reservation at Banff National Park in Alberta Canada.  

We are still climbing some, but Barb's fall really took the wind out of her sails and it is not the only thing that we do.

Carl Schneider wrote: 

Long shot, but I met a Kevin from NZ at Araps, he was talking about traveling a D climbing. Wonder if it's the same guy? Truck driver I think. Shortish. 

Kevin and us atop Super Slab at Smith Rock State Park in Oregon.  Probably the same fella, the lad does get around.  

                                             
ErikaNW  Lori - just want to also add that it isn’t all or none. You don’t have to be ‘expert’ at rigging/anchoring or leading to go out with non-guide climbers. Just be honest about your abilities/skill set and they can decide if they want to climb with you and also do some mentoring along the way. I often climb with new climbers who don’t have those skills. All I require is a safe belay. But I also know upfront and have an expectation of what the day will be like and choose routes/areas accordingly. I usually end up doing some instruction along the way. Why would I do this? Because these are people I like being around! That’s way more important to me than whether they can build an anchor.
What I’m saying is, don’t wait until you feel you have all of those skills in place to climb with non-guide partners. Just get out there and do it!

Could not agree more  Erika is spot on.  I have climbed with few word class climbers over the years and I'm just a mediocre average climber at best.  Just be safe!  Be fun to be around and they will find you.  It's also fun to climb with people at your level.  Go adventure together.  Climb with as many different people as you can.  The more people you climb with the more techniques you will be exposed to. As well as the more areas and types of rocks. Rome didn't get built in a day enjoy the journey.

Dallas R wrote: This winter we are doing the Ikon Ski Pass tour.  Copper Mountain (staying in Breckenridge CO), Steamboat CO, Alta/Briton/Deer Valley near Salt Lake City (there now). Jackson Hole WY, Crystal Mountain/Snoqualmie Pass WA (lots of family activities), Squaw Valley(   we'll be staying in Truckee), April is kind of open right now, May will be Kayak guides at Cove Palisades SP near Smith Rock SP.  July 19-27 I snagged a reservation at Banff National Park in Alberta Canada.  

We are still climbing some, but Barb's fall really took the wind out of her sails and it is not the only thing that we do.

Kevin and us atop Super Slab at Smith Rock State Park in Oregon.  Probably the same fella, the lad does get around.  

Hi Dallas!  Curious if it is the same Kevin that climbed with Trish Stoops from Calif.?

Dallas R wrote: This winter we are doing the Ikon Ski Pass tour.  Copper Mountain (staying in Breckenridge CO), Steamboat CO, Alta/Briton/Deer Valley near Salt Lake City (there now). Jackson Hole WY, Crystal Mountain/Snoqualmie Pass WA (lots of family activities), Squaw Valley(   we'll be staying in Truckee), April is kind of open right now, May will be Kayak guides at Cove Palisades SP near Smith Rock SP.  July 19-27 I snagged a reservation at Banff National Park in Alberta Canada.  

Great itinerary, Dallas. Breck and Steamboat are two of the nicest CO ski towns (Crested Butte is my favorite), Alta is wonderful, and Banff National Park is just WOW! So jealous. 

I have a little fantasy and wonder if anyone knows about this.  The last time I was at the Colorado River, we rented jet skiis on Lake Havasu and drove way up a sort of gorge.  It reminded me of a mini Grand Canyon... just beautiful rocks on either side.  Now I'm wondering if we could throw some ropes and gear in the back of a jet ski and go back up that gorge, park the ski, and climb those gorgeous rocks.  Anyone know where I'm talking about?    

Dallas R wrote: This winter we are doing the Ikon Ski Pass tour.  Copper Mountain (staying in Breckenridge CO), Steamboat CO, Alta/Briton/Deer Valley near Salt Lake City (there now). Jackson Hole WY, Crystal Mountain/Snoqualmie Pass WA (lots of family activities), Squaw Valley(   we'll be staying in Truckee), April is kind of open right now, May will be Kayak guides at Cove Palisades SP near Smith Rock SP.  July 19-27 I snagged a reservation at Banff National Park in Alberta Canada.  

We are still climbing some, but Barb's fall really took the wind out of her sails and it is not the only thing that we do.

Kevin and us atop Super Slab at Smith Rock State Park in Oregon.  Probably the same fella, the lad does get around.  

Yeah that's him! 

Carl Schneider wrote:

Yeah that's him! 

Lori? Here's why we climb with each other, lol! It's simply friendship, too. It's been fun for me, to know people personally, who haven't met, and I have been able to tell each of them the other is a great partner who won't kill them. Lately, this has been with mountaineering friends, and on serious stuff that's wildly out of my skillset. But, I know my friends will be good partners. And, I like knowing people I care about are doing hard stuff with people I trust with my life, myself. Judgement is the most important skill in climbing, and you're there, Lori! As a safe, conscientious belayer? You can climb with lots of people. Just talk it out beforehand, make sure you're both comfortable with it. That's a plus of being older, by the way. I think all of us are pretty comfortable being honest about our abilities, and willing to let others know what we aren't comfortable with, also.

Best, Helen

Thanks for the training replies, too. It's shaping up into a combination of most of the suggestions. I'm reading the Horst book now, and rgolds one. I have been writing things down all along and will continue that. I signed up for a six week challenge at a Spartan race type gym, which means at least four classes per week. About mid February I'll have to decide what to continue from that, if anything. And, my climbing gym should open the end of February, so I can actually have climbing again. It's astonishing how hard this winter has been, not having regular climbing, even if "just" inside. It's sooooo close to doable outside right now! Arghhhhh!!! Still too muddy.

I'm also seriously thinking about taking a page from Lori's book and hiring someone to train/coach me. The hard part will be finding the right person. A mix of personal trainer and maybe climbing coach, but with an understanding of my physical shit that needs addressing. But not full on physical therapy. I know someone who would be wonderful....but she lives elsewhere!

@Carl, have the fires settled down, or just dropped out of the news?

Best, Helen

Old lady H wrote:@Carl, have the fires settled down, or just dropped out of the news?

Best, Helen

Certainly in South Australia where I live they're out. I think a few are continuing in NSW. I hear on the news today a number of town are running out of water, with some with less than two months' worth left. 

We're starting to get in to deep shit...

[EDIT] This is the current status.  As you can see, they are all under control.  I think it's fair to say we here in Australia are very appreciative and overwhelmed by the care and concern shown to us by others.  There's currently a lot of work going on with building new fences, caring for injured animals (esp koalas), caring for people (many including children are quite traumatised) and getting back to normal life. I think it's going to be a difficult time ahead as we've taken a hit to our herds (i.e. dairy cows and beef cattle) and crops) and water in some areas is still in very short supply as I mentioned above.  

Old Lady HelenI'm also seriously thinking about taking a page from Lori's book and hiring someone to train/coach me. The hard part will be finding the right person. A mix of personal trainer and maybe climbing coach, but with an understanding of my physical shit that needs addressing. But not full on physical therapy. I know someone who would be wonderful....but she lives elsewhere!

@Carl, have the fires settled down, or just dropped out of the news?

Best, Helen

Helen... Without getting too woo woo I believe this is a spiritual journey... there’s a path for each of us. Teachers, gurus, friends are given to us along the way to take us to places we don’t even recognize.  If you want a coach or trainer you’ll find the right one for you. 

——Today was an unusual day for me at the gym. I was on the verge of tears the whole session and burst out crying the second we got in the car.  Tony was beside himself wondering how to console me.  He’d been watching and he said these were the toughest routes he’d seen me climb. The fact is, the day was just hard.  The routes were SO hard that Ryan went out of his way to explain “We’re looking for what you can’t climb now. We’re looking for styles of climbing you haven’t done before... tiny crimps, way off balance. It’s ok if you fall off every hold, consider it a win  if you make one or two.”  He explained how it is for him when he starts on routes that look impossible at the outset. 
Now I feel bad for making them feel bad.   

Carl Schneider wrote:
Yeah that's him! 

Is that a good that's him or a bad that's him?

budman wrote:
Hi Dallas!  Curious if it is the same Kevin that climbed with Trish Stoops from Calif.?

Yes it is.

The Rock and Ice  tribute to Patricia Stoops.  

Trish was a hoot, we miss her.   Kevin and Trish together were a lot of fun and very safety minded.  Her death has no reflection on Kevin.  This tragedy is very personal for me.  If you want to discuss it further PM me, I will not post anything further on a public forum.