New and Experienced Climbers Over 50 #9

Guy Keesee wrote:
Sounds to me like its hi time you went and did some of the classics around Josh. I recommend you take a crack at "chalk up another one" the FA was done by the crew who did EBGB and Loose Lady. Also get em to lead some of the more different roots like Buissonier …. Bacon Flake.... The Eye.

Me, mid 70's. I got it all going on, hair, bandana, aviator glasses, ovals, and crummy mustache getting ready to give Re-Bolting another go. I have a heap of confidence! Took the fall, the belayer did their job and ran downhill quick enuf to keep me from boring into the dirt.

Lori, Keep the cards and letters pouring in.  

Thank you, Guy!  Look how tan and healthy you were... probably still are.  Thanks for these pictures!  These embody the best of climbing... please keep them coming! (and more stories, and more beta...)

Yesterday was a tough day of climbing for me... it was 39 degrees tops, I just didn't feel well, and I was tired.  But Chris had in mind a couple of FAs for us and I haven't experienced that before... we went out and climbed them, he layed out the bolting, the beta...  and then we went around to another pile of rocks called "Voices", I believe... and worked on some shorter routes.  

Where I'm going with is the deep gratitude and appreciation I have for you all... it's really touching to be able to come here for information, support, some laughter... beta, and to share experiences and make climbing friends.

It just seems all backwards to have started a project (climbing) when most people are settling in for retirement.  It's taken a village to even begin the climbing thing... SO much coaching and patience from others for which I feel SO LUCKY.      What I finally realized is that I was searching for a mentor, or a bunch of mentors, who could take me through this process over the long haul.  There's no equivalent Camp 4 that I know of, where a (ugh...66 year old) woman or other newby can go and just learn to climb.  So, I've found some relationships where people know me pretty well, know my many weaknesses, strengths, diabetes, and stoke... and help make it happen.  This HAS to stretch their patience, and all I can do is express gratitude.  

I could not have figured out most of this on my own, or on a casual weekend out.  I STILL cannot read a route... how long does this take?  One thing is for sure... if I'm thinking the next move is a left, it's gonna be a right.
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So, who was the Hauser crew?  I had the same thought when I saw EBGB... it looks like the kind of climbing on Loose Lady.  (my kind of rock!) Did Hauser have a specialty?  

I jotted down Chalk Up Another One... don't know whether it has any sun today, but looks fun.  Will check out the others.  

29 degrees today... don't know how I'm going to do this.  Nelson has been suggesting Illusion Dweller this trip... and maybe... like, why not try it?  My new philosophy is, can't hurt to try.  Sometimes it's a pleasant surprise.     It's just fucking COLD. 

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At this level of climbing I am finding that all the gym climbing has given me the ability to do hard pulls, but I cannot stand up on one leg... cannot mantel, and that shoots the climbs.  It's been pointed out that I lose a lot of energy and strength by not committing, by waiting too long to make a dynamic move.  I'm having to do workarounds on the mantels most of the time... so, a little more gym work necessary.

We are getting out and finally meeting some folks this trip.  Todd Gordon had a little Christmas buffet... lots of fun.  Climbers and other J Tree denizens were there, and nice to make new friends.  Tony has been making spaghetti and meatballs like a maniac... and he is feeding the world.  Anyone in the area, come for dinner!  Last night I walked in from a day of climbing, wolfed down two large meatballs, and fell asleep where I sat.

Has anyone seen the new Star Wars?  

Chris coaching me off the deck...

Up up and away...

Heading your way Lori! Long drive ahead.... will text you and Senor with our plans. 

Lori Milas wrote: I could not have figured out most of this on my own, or on a casual weekend out.  I STILL cannot read a route... how long does this take?  One thing is for sure... if I'm thinking the next move is a left, it's gonna be a right.
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So you CAN read a route. When your brain tells you to go left just go right.

29 degrees today... don't know how I'm going to do this.  

Go to Nomads and see if they sell those little handwarmer packets that activate when exposed to air.  Put one in your chalk bag. Put a couple in your pockets. Makes a HUGE difference to be able to warm hands mid-climb. 

Señor Arroz wrote: So you CAN read a route. When your brain tells you to go left just go right.

Go to Nomads and see if they sell those little handwarmer packets that activate when exposed to air.  Put one in your chalk bag. Put a couple in your pockets. Makes a HUGE difference to be able to warm hands mid-climb. 

Actually Senor, no joking... I head towards the path I’m sure won’t work.  Once in awhile I insist upon doing it my own way, and can wind up in some odd places and dangerous jams I have to retreat from.   

Thanks for the advice on hand warmers. Will do. Today I’m just thrashed.  Will think twice before ever packing this many days of climbing into one trip.    

When your in the campground area,walk over to PeeWee Rock and climb one of Todds good routes, Peewee Piton.

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105815166/peewees-piton

Lori Milas wrote:

Actually Senor, no joking... I head towards the path I’m sure won’t work.  Once in awhile I insist upon doing it my own way, and can wind up in some odd places and dangerous jams I have to retreat from.   

Thanks for the advice on hand warmers. Will do. Today I’m just thrashed.  Will think twice before ever packing this many days of climbing into one trip.    

Hand warmers: in addition to one in the chalk bag, consider taping one to each wrist for face-climbing (warms up incoming blood).  In the way for hand cracks so more of a slab and wall thing.

Extended trip climbing days: two on, one off for me.

rgold wrote:

Hand warmers: in addition to one in the chalk bag, consider taping one to each wrist for face-climbing (warms up incoming blood).  In the way for hand cracks so more of a slab and wall thing.

Extended trip climbing days: two on, one off for me.

that's a really interesting tip, Rich. Thanks.

I run warm but I climb with a partner who often runs cold. Will try this for her. 

Lori- climbing in the cold blows. I don’t even try, the old bones and muscles don’t warm up at all so it’s not fun.
The other day my friends were busy bolting some new lines- it was 44 with 40mph winds! I ditched them and hiked up a nearby mountain to see what I could see. Those routes will be there when it warms back up.
Get Tony to make a big tub of Ministroni soup
and kick back. BITD we would go bowling at Yucca Bowl.
Stay warm 

Lori, when we were out bouldering in 30something temps last year, I wore my zip up snow boots to walk in, no socks. I also had my giant belay puffy (men's, it is long on me). Which meant, as soon as the climbing shoes were off (Velcro helps with that), those warm boots were on. With the puffy, and a nice handwarmer in a kangaroo pocket on my shirt, I was pretty comfy. With sun, we would have been fine entirely. But, wind? Nope.

I'm just back from my Bozeman Ice Fest trip, so cold was a hot topic, lol! I'm happy to report I did fine with my layers, getting uncovered and zips pulled down before hiking up, so I wasn't sweaty once I got up there. Two more parts to consider, if you aren't well hydrated, it will be worse (hot or cold), in my experience. Couple that with an elevation you aren't used to, and it gets sorta miserable. Coming from a cold climate, it also depends on what you are used to. We had peeps there from CA and it was definitely much harder. Not just the climate and temps that they were unused to, but coming from mere feet above sea level. Then there's time of year. I know low temps early in the season will feel frigid, late winter the same temp will be a balmy blessing. Then there's general fitness.....

I learned a lot from this trip. And not at all what I expected. I plan on writing about it out on the beginners forum, when I get to it, but basically it's coming to those crossroads we face as "beginners". There's a point where it is either something you just enjoy, and can leave it at that. Or? You realize you are much more of a climber than you give yourself credit for. And you will now have to truly work for it. Every bit of it. Betcha can guess which one I am....and hopefully can understand that my lazyass self kinda hates you people for it!

EDIT to add, re cold, you must be well fueled, also.
Re epiphanies? Having one of the badassedest of the badasses say, "I'm worried you'll break a hip." 

Best, Helen

Señor Arroz wrote:

that's a really interesting tip, Rich. Thanks.

I run warm but I climb with a partner who often runs cold. Will try this for her. 

Actually, I don't use tape as much any more.  I have some light stretch wristlets made for runners to carry keys in, and I put the heat packs in those.  You want the heat  pack on the palm side, not the back side of the hand.

Lori Milas wrote: 
29 degrees today... don't know how I'm going to do this.  

Lori, 

Why are climbing when it's so cold? Have you already paid your guide and will lose your money? I wouldn't want to climb in that cold weather; the forecast is of paramount importance when I plan a climbing trip.

Climbing is supposed to be fun, not suffering.

FrankPS wrote: Climbing is supposed to be fun, not suffering.

Shit.  I wish someone told me that 40 years ago.  

Lori Milas wrote:

You’re HIGH Dwain.  Not in this lifetime or the next.

but if you guys have been climbing in this beautiful place all these years, why aren’t you all telling stories about these routes and posting pictures? 
PS. That’s a plea for more pictures! 

I'll get on that

Lori Milas wrote:

 ...I STILL cannot read a route... how long does this take? ...

I'm pretty bad a route reading too.  One thing I find that helps is (a) know what a particular grade feels like and, (b) remind yourself when you're on the route what grade it is you're climbing. If you're doing a 5.10c but it feels like a 5.11 you're probably off route, or just can't see that 'secret' hold.

BTW, talking about cold weather, it's going to be 42 today and 44 on Friday where I am. Still went climbing last night even though it's hot. I LOVE the hot weather, I lobe wearing as few clothes as possible and I HATE air conditioning.  

I'm getting ready to go to The Grampians after the silly season and do some bouldering, sports climbing, trad, just hang out at Camp Sandy, drink, smoke, be merry.
I'm feeling fit and strong and positive about things.

Lori Milas wrote: So, who was the Hauser crew?  I had the same thought when I saw EBGB... it looks like the kind of climbing on Loose Lady.  (my kind of rock!) Did Hauser have a specialty?

Dave Hauser, Jan McCullom, Mike Waugh... they specialized in hard crimping- really hard crimping. I haven’t see Dave in years- maybe some one knows what he is up to.  Jan still climbs (my wilderness FF partner) and Waugh splits his time between LA and Mammoth, spends his summers in The Meadows - where he somehow gets to have a campsite for the whole season!? Hank Lavine was on chalk up another. They all had mad hand drilling skills and were not afraid to run it out. 

“We are getting out and finally meeting some folks this trip.  Todd Gordon had a little Christmas buffet... lots of fun.”
Todd is good people- I’m happy for you to get to know the people who have helped make JT the place it now is. 

Thank you all so much!!! Wow. What a group.

Helen!  So glad that your trip went well! I’ve been thinking of you and hoping you were having a great time.  Please report in to us... with pictures!!!

I woke up this morning in tears and DID NOT want to climb.  It was 29 degrees and I was just overtired and bored from grinding through too many days of climbing.  But I never know ahead of time how a day is going to turn out so my rule of thumb is “Just say yes.”   
It was perfect.  We walked through the cold and found a place that was warm... took off all the layers, got down to a T-shirt. It had to be 70 degrees and PERFECT.  I baked on a rock like a chuckwalla and warmed up.. then we climbed.    

A 5.7 warmup then a 10a slab was easier than I expected.  Then came a 5.10d slab... I swear I think I was one crimp away from sending the crux...  it was SO CLOSE, but tiny crystals ripping into my fingertips were just too painful.  I’m bummed.  This one had my name on it and I gave up too soon.  

Oh! We hiked over to Chalk Up Another One and this looks like another beautiful challenge.  It appears there may be a walk on to the right so leading won’t be necessary (for my partner). So this goes into the “next trip” category which is growing daily.  So I’m starting to see the Hauser trademark... I wonder if there’s a complete list? 

We also took a walk over to Gunsmoke where “all the cool kids” are.  Indeed!  Lots of crash pads... Nelson did a few laps.  My fingers have to heal first but looks doable!    

I’m becoming soft and sentimental towards this place.  I want to contribute something here... leave it a better place.  Whether we ultimately move here, or become part time denizens... I want to volunteer some time.  It was so touching to see the community spirit when the Park shut down last January... climbers and hikers cleaning the toilets, picking up litter, pitching in.  There’s much to give here...

Lori Milas wrote: 

That looks like a cool traverse.  

I have questions.  

I saw this Instagram post by my little buddy Jeremy Shoenborn.  "Joshua Tree is deep in our roots as climbers. It’s never ending tech-fests helps build sound footwork, sequence reading ability, and believe it or not, power! Awesome to once again join forces with Jordan and get slapped around by the park! Gotta show up to practice!"

This kid grew up here in Joshua Tree, and is fast becoming the best climber in California, maybe the country.  So he cut his teeth on Joshua Tree rock.

But his post was a reminder that we do have to show up to practice.  I have another week and a half here... (two days with Jeremy!)... but his Instagram post clarified for me some of the real value of Joshua Tree.  Life here has been a school.  It's been so well designed to learn every kind of climbing... to play hard, and to experiment.  But it seems that soon enough people branch out from here, go hone their skills in other places...  as I'm watching Jeremy do.  Yosemite... and all points in between.

For those who have been climbing forever, where did your journey go from here?  What did you learn/do/experience in Joshua Tree, and what did you do after that?  Where are you now... what are you climbing now?  I guess I'm asking what this place means or meant to you.  

I don't know if there is an equivalent learning school on the East Coast... I don't mean to limit my question to just West Coast climbers.

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Today I'm having some doubts (questions).  After playing so hard on the 10d slab... I didn't expect to wake up in solid pain from my armpits up.  It's slab!  Maybe someone can weigh in on upper body prep for hard bearing-down crimping.  

I learned a lot on that 10d.  It was an absolute "NO" when I looked it over.  Nearly vertical rock, tiny edges and crystals only.  It required total concentration, and looking only at what was in my immediate field.  Strange how possibilities emerge the longer you stay with a problem... a maybe foothold, a tiny pinch that might work... repositioning my body until there was half a chance of making that next step.  

But I'm sore as hell this morning.  Looking forward to some soaking in Desert Hot Springs mineral waters.  (15 bucks for the day!)

Isn’t it amazing when you find that special warm place... a microclimate if you will.
See about climbing at “The Hot Tubs” many climbs for your grade. Also “Fire or Retire” 10b is down in a sunny hole... and “Sphincter Quits” a fine 5.9 that sits in the morning sun. All of these are short walks and sunny spots on cold days.

Lori- there are so many “special places” where climbers coalesce. You are just starting out with your climbing and all of these will be eye openers. In no order here are some of mine- The Gunks, The Needles (CA), Owens River, Bishop, the Valley, COR, Tahquitz & Suicide, Courtright res, Shuteye, Cochise, The Lemon, Red Rocks, Domelands ... I could go on but I only wish to recommend places I have first hand experience with.
As they say- “So many climbs, so little time”
get cranking.

Reporting in.   

It seems that on this trip I’ve been climbing what I cannot climb.  Without regard for grade or sanity, I’ve jumped into the deep end on routes that are obviously way beyond my limit, and been eager to learn how to manage just one more sloper, pinch, crack.

Today was a day with Jeremy and as always I’m so deeply touched.  It was so great to just hang out and talk and catch up on his summer projects. I feel protective and cautious about him... but I think the feeling goes both ways.  

I reworked the dihedral that messed me up a year ago... piece of cake.  Another route to the right looked impossible to me... very possible for Jerrrrbs who lead it and set it up for me. When I hit an impasse I asked Jeremy if we had a workaround.  Hooking a biner onto a bolt was the first needed handhold... and then Jeremy lowered himself to my level so I could grab his rope and pull up.  AMAZING! I thought this would all be too much cheating... but so what. So, this is a thing?   

10a, b, c... part of a D, part of an 11.  Just doing what I cannot do!