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Niccolo Gallio
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Sep 14, 2019
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mainly Italy
· Joined May 2019
· Points: 0
...to justify the purchase of 60m half ropes? Doing mostly multi-pitch trad climbing. Can't give specifics about location because I move a lot, just interested in a general statistic. sometimes the difference in price from 50 to 60 is pretty big..
Thanks!
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Nick Goldsmith
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Sep 14, 2019
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NEK
· Joined Aug 2009
· Points: 470
Completely dependent on the area. In the north east l can only think of one route on Rogers rock that requires a 60m double rope ramp and a down scramble but even that has likely changed. 50m double ropes are plenty to make it down from anywhere else regardless of what the book says. Almost all the published pitch lengths are wishful thinking. Ice is a different game. I have 70m doubles for ice. 60m for multi pitch rock but have done most of the classic multi pitch venues in the ne with 50m doubles and been fine. Heck, did most of them with very fat and heavy 50m single Bintd
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Niccolo Gallio
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Sep 14, 2019
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mainly Italy
· Joined May 2019
· Points: 0
Nick Goldsmith wrote: Completely dependent on the area. In the north east l can only think of one route on Rogers rock that requires a 60m double rope ramp and a down scramble but even that has likely changed. 50m double ropes are plenty to make it down from anywhere else regardless of what the book says. Almost all the published pitch lengths are wishful thinking. Ice is a different game. I have 70m doubles for ice. 60m for multi pitch rock but have done most of the classic multi pitch venues in the ne with 50m doubles and been fine. Heck, did most of them with very fat and heavy 50m single Bintd Thanks a lot for the reply, I don't do any ice climbing and don't plan on doing any in the near future.
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Nick Goldsmith
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Sep 14, 2019
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NEK
· Joined Aug 2009
· Points: 470
I don't know anything about Italy???? Here in the north eastern USA 50m doubles is enough to get down from most rock climbs.
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Big Red
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Sep 14, 2019
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Seattle
· Joined Apr 2013
· Points: 1,201
60m is pretty standard for many modern routes, with some areas moving towards 70m. Also 60m pitches aren't uncommon, and linking pitches becomes much easier.
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Rob D
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Sep 15, 2019
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Queens, NY
· Joined May 2011
· Points: 30
I find it helpful to have double 60s.
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Fran M
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Sep 15, 2019
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Germany
· Joined Feb 2019
· Points: 0
Many routes (Italy) do require 60m ropes for the rappel. Also, many modern routes have 50-60m pitches. For me, the weight savings of the 50m ropes was the main advantage (400g per rope!) but im glad i got the 60m ones in the end.
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Niccolo Gallio
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Sep 15, 2019
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mainly Italy
· Joined May 2019
· Points: 0
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Nick Goldsmith
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Sep 15, 2019
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NEK
· Joined Aug 2009
· Points: 470
Here in the NE US when they say you need a 60m they mean a 60 or 70m Single, 50m doubles trump the 70m single for any rappelling needs.. I have linked most of the standard links at cathedral and cannon with 50m doubles... Reppys to the bolts is the most rope stretcher that I can think of but have done it with a 50 many times.. also on Mt Wheeler its a real stretch to the bolts on top of VJs but can be done with 50's. Slip Tease Skid row on Rogers Rock is a real Looong pitch If I recall but put up before 60 and 70m ropes. We must have done something to get down. Pretty shure there was some scrambling involved?? its been many years and I can't remember if we had 50's or 60s??? just for shits and giggles start paying attention to how much rope you carry around, manage and don't use with 60m double rope system... Its a lot on most days. all that being said I still use the 60m double rope system for most multi pitch gear rock climbs. I do however remember how much lighter my 50ms were as I had a pair not that long ago that I still rotated into use occasionally. it's amazeing how much fun it is to get on a multi pitch line that is bolted for single 70m ropes after a long stretch of climbing with the 60m doubles. it's quite liberating to not be managing all that rope all day....
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Tradiban
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Sep 15, 2019
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Apr 2004
· Points: 11,610
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Niccolo Gallio
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Sep 15, 2019
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mainly Italy
· Joined May 2019
· Points: 0
Tradiban wrote: You need 70s. You must be a representative for a rope brand
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Chad Miller
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Sep 15, 2019
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Grand Junction, CO
· Joined Nov 2006
· Points: 150
Niccolo Gallio wrote: You must be a representative for a rope brand No he’s just a troll.
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Niccolo Gallio
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Sep 15, 2019
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mainly Italy
· Joined May 2019
· Points: 0
Chad Miller wrote: No he’s just a troll. I like his style
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Robert Hall
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Sep 15, 2019
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North Conway, NH
· Joined Aug 2013
· Points: 28,846
In the northeast that, I know of , Time Space Continumum and Hugo’s Revisited on Willard you’d have to go off one of the climbing bolts with only double 50m ropes.
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Idaho Bob
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Sep 15, 2019
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McCall, ID
· Joined Apr 2013
· Points: 757
My doubles are 70’s. Have used full length more than once when adventure climbing. For established routes with known belay stations, 50 or 60 is generally more than adequate unless you want to skip stations.
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Chad Miller
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Sep 15, 2019
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Grand Junction, CO
· Joined Nov 2006
· Points: 150
Niccolo Gallio wrote: I like his style He’s a bit needy for me.
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Buck Rio
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Sep 15, 2019
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MN
· Joined Jul 2015
· Points: 16
If you have doubles/half, 90%+ of your rappels will be covered. Probably closer to 100% if you do routes put up a long time ago. It was the standard for so long, all of the "classic" lines will have rap stations less than 50m.
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Tradiban
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Sep 15, 2019
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Apr 2004
· Points: 11,610
Niccolo Gallio wrote: You must be a representative for a rope brand Negative. I just sick of getting caught behind the yahoos pitching out a classic with a 50m.
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Nick Goldsmith
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Sep 15, 2019
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NEK
· Joined Aug 2009
· Points: 470
Robert hall, don't know about time space but certainly don't remember any serious rope streatchers on Hugos? did it with 60s and keeping in mind that rappels are much straighter than climbs I would be supprised if you couldn't get down with 50s.. but who knows. anyways I won't likely ever buy double 50s again but I do appreciate the weight saveings and less amount of spaghetti....
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Buck Rio
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Sep 16, 2019
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MN
· Joined Jul 2015
· Points: 16
Tradiban wrote: Negative. I just sick of getting caught behind the yahoos pitching out a classic with a 50m. I got stuck behind a threesome on Conn's Traverse on Outer Outlet in Sylvan Lake once, But I don't think it had anything to do with the length of their rope :) I think if you are climbing in an area that has the opportunity to combine pitches, why not do it by getting a 70m or 80m rope?
Some places (Eldo comes to mind) that have a lot of wandering routes, shorter half ropes will be sufficient.
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Tradiban
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Sep 16, 2019
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Apr 2004
· Points: 11,610
Buck Rio wrote: I got stuck behind a threesome on Conn's Traverse on Outer Outlet in Sylvan Lake once, But I don't think it had anything to do with the length of their rope :) I think if you are climbing in an area that has the opportunity to combine pitches, why not do it by getting a 70m or 80m rope?
Some places (Eldo comes to mind) that have a lot of wandering routes, shorter half ropes will be sufficient. Yes. Having a 50m rope is a sign of what kind of climber you are.
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