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Are >50m rappels that frequent?

Original Post
Niccolo Gallio · · mainly Italy · Joined May 2019 · Points: 0

...to justify the purchase of 60m half ropes?
Doing mostly multi-pitch trad climbing.
Can't give specifics about location because I move a lot, just interested in a general statistic.
sometimes the difference in price from 50 to 60 is pretty big..

Thanks!

Nick Goldsmith · · NEK · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 470

Completely  dependent on the area.  In the  north east  l can  only think of one route  on Rogers rock  that  requires a  60m double rope ramp and a  down scramble  but even that has  likely  changed.   50m double ropes are plenty to make it down from  anywhere  else  regardless of what the  book says.   Almost all the  published  pitch  lengths are wishful thinking.   Ice is a different game.  I  have  70m  doubles for ice.  60m for  multi pitch rock  but have done most of the classic  multi pitch venues in the ne with 50m doubles and been fine.  Heck,  did  most of them with very fat and heavy  50m single Bintd 

Niccolo Gallio · · mainly Italy · Joined May 2019 · Points: 0
Nick Goldsmith wrote: Completely  dependent on the area.  In the  north east  l can  only think of one route  on Rogers rock  that  requires a  60m double rope ramp and a  down scramble  but even that has  likely  changed.   50m double ropes are plenty to make it down from  anywhere  else  regardless of what the  book says.   Almost all the  published  pitch  lengths are wishful thinking.   Ice is a different game.  I  have  70m  doubles for ice.  60m for  multi pitch rock  but have done most of the classic  multi pitch venues in the ne with 50m doubles and been fine.  Heck,  did  most of them with very fat and heavy  50m single Bintd 

Thanks a lot for the reply, I don't do any ice climbing and don't plan on doing any in the near future.

Nick Goldsmith · · NEK · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 470

I don't know anything about  Italy???? Here in the north  eastern USA 50m doubles is enough to get  down from  most rock  climbs.  

Big Red · · Seattle · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 1,201

60m is pretty standard for many modern routes, with some areas moving towards 70m. Also 60m pitches aren't uncommon, and linking pitches becomes much easier.

Rob D · · Queens, NY · Joined May 2011 · Points: 30

I find it helpful to have double 60s. 

Fran M · · Germany · Joined Feb 2019 · Points: 0

Many routes (Italy) do require 60m ropes for the rappel. Also, many modern routes have 50-60m pitches. For me, the weight savings of the 50m ropes was the main advantage (400g per rope!) but im glad i got the 60m ones in the end.

Niccolo Gallio · · mainly Italy · Joined May 2019 · Points: 0

thanks everybody!

Nick Goldsmith · · NEK · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 470

Here in the NE US when they say you need a 60m they mean a 60 or 70m Single,  50m doubles trump the 70m single for any rappelling needs.. I have linked most of the standard links at cathedral and cannon with  50m doubles...  Reppys to the bolts is the most rope stretcher that I can think of but have done it with a 50 many times..   also on Mt Wheeler its a real stretch to the bolts on top of VJs but can be done with 50's. Slip Tease Skid row on Rogers Rock is a real Looong  pitch If I recall but put up before  60 and 70m ropes.  We must have done something to get down. Pretty shure there was some scrambling involved?? its been many years and I can't remember if we had 50's or 60s???  just for shits and giggles start paying attention to how much rope you carry around, manage and don't use with 60m double rope system...  Its a lot on most days.   all that being said I still use the 60m double rope system for most multi pitch gear rock climbs.  I do however remember how much lighter my 50ms were as I had a pair not that long ago that I still rotated into use occasionally.   it's amazeing how much fun it is to get on a multi pitch line that is bolted for  single 70m ropes after a long stretch of climbing with the 60m doubles. it's quite liberating to not  be managing all that rope all day....

Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,610

You need 70s.

Niccolo Gallio · · mainly Italy · Joined May 2019 · Points: 0
Tradiban wrote: You need 70s.

You must be a representative for a rope brand

Chad Miller · · Grand Junction, CO · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 150
Niccolo Gallio wrote:

You must be a representative for a rope brand

No he’s just a troll. 

Niccolo Gallio · · mainly Italy · Joined May 2019 · Points: 0
Chad Miller wrote:

No he’s just a troll. 

I like his style

Robert Hall · · North Conway, NH · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 28,846

In the northeast that, I know of , Time Space Continumum and Hugo’s Revisited on Willard you’d have to go off one of the climbing bolts with only double 50m ropes.  

Idaho Bob · · McCall, ID · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 757

My doubles are 70’s.  Have used full length more than once when adventure climbing.  For established routes with known belay stations, 50 or 60 is generally more than adequate unless you want to skip stations.

Chad Miller · · Grand Junction, CO · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 150
Niccolo Gallio wrote:

I like his style

He’s a bit needy for me. 

Buck Rio · · MN · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 16

If you have doubles/half, 90%+ of your rappels will be covered. Probably closer to 100% if you do routes put up a long time ago. It was the standard for so long, all of the "classic" lines will have rap stations less than 50m.

Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,610
Niccolo Gallio wrote:

You must be a representative for a rope brand

Negative. I just sick of getting caught behind the yahoos pitching out a classic with a 50m.

Nick Goldsmith · · NEK · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 470

Robert hall, don't know about time space  but certainly don't remember any serious rope streatchers on Hugos?  did it with 60s  and keeping in mind that  rappels are much straighter than climbs I would be supprised if you couldn't get down with 50s.. but who knows.   anyways I won't likely ever buy double 50s again but I do appreciate the weight saveings and less amount of spaghetti.... 

Buck Rio · · MN · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 16
Tradiban wrote:

Negative. I just sick of getting caught behind the yahoos pitching out a classic with a 50m.

I got stuck behind a threesome on Conn's Traverse on Outer Outlet in Sylvan Lake once, But I don't think it had anything to do with the length of their rope :)   

I think if you are climbing in an area that has the opportunity to combine pitches, why not do it by getting a 70m or 80m rope?

Some places (Eldo comes to mind) that have a lot of wandering routes, shorter half ropes will be sufficient.

Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,610
Buck Rio wrote:

I got stuck behind a threesome on Conn's Traverse on Outer Outlet in Sylvan Lake once, But I don't think it had anything to do with the length of their rope :)   

I think if you are climbing in an area that has the opportunity to combine pitches, why not do it by getting a 70m or 80m rope?

Some places (Eldo comes to mind) that have a lot of wandering routes, shorter half ropes will be sufficient.

Yes. Having a 50m rope is a sign of what kind of climber you are.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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