On rappel...and out of rope
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There have been several accidents lately, where the climber went off the rope end. Coupled with all those escape the belay debates, I got to thinking about rope ends, just a hypothetical, and the possibility of needing to escape a rappel. |
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Old lady H wrote: Let's say you are rappelling, and either tied a knot, or otherwise notice the immanent approach of one (perhaps ropes are uneven) or both rope ends. Oops. What's next? Is ascending all the way back up it?Either that or ascending far enough to be able to build a secondary anchor. Ideally, you wouldn't be rapping into unknown territory with unknown anchor spacing. |
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If you are first down have gear with you, that way you can just ascend back up to a stance and hang out. If you just went past the fixed gear station, (and you have a competent partner) They can stop at the station you passed, pull rope, rethread and get the rope back to you so that you can tear down your temp anchor and rap off the fixed one they got to. |
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If it's a case of uneven ends AND the ends are knotted, just keep rappeling. When your device hits the first knot on the shorter end, the ropes will even out. Just make sure the knot is sturdy and won't untie. |
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it all depends on the situation. are you at the end of the rope but only need a few more feet to reach the next station? Tie your cordalette to the end of the rope, pass the knot and you're fine. Do you have 50 ft to go? convert to ascend and start climbing... |
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Hmm, might be a good idea for the first person on rappel to carry gear, if you aren't sure where the next station is. |
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Nathan Sullivan wrote: From what I understand, you can easily flip an ATC-Guide (or similar) into auto-block mode and use that as part of an ascension system, without removing the rope or the biner you were rapping on. yep. just clip the "guide" ring back to your belay loop with a 2nd biner. the only tricky part is unclipping the biner that creates the bite of rope in the ATC, but this can easily be managed by ensuring you have a good backup/3rd hand in place before you "flip" the device. |
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Jake Jones wrote: Doesn't sound like overkill to me. Standard transition: place a cat knot below the device, place a footloop on a friction hitch above, stand up, clip guide-mode loop to belay loop with locker, remove third hand below the device and start jugging! |
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Ran into that recently, rapping on a 60m rope for a pitch that required a 70m rope to reach the station. I was on a giga jul so it was already self locking (could achieve this with other setups as others have pointed out), so I just ascended a little till I found a reasonable stance, created a gear anchor and had my partner rap to there. He then rapped to the station leaving a few pieces of gear on one of the strands. I then down led to the station. |
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Worth pointing out that flipping the plaquette is a lot less dicey if you have extended your rappel. |
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I yelled, "THERE'S NO KNOT IN THE SHORT ROPE."http://www.howardreplogle.com/essays/climbingacident/caccident.htm |
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Hobo Greg wrote: Tie the knot so it has six inches of tail. Then, the knot is taking the weight of the device and you rappelling on it, and your hand is holding the tail to make sure it doesn't untie. |
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Danny Herrera wrote: howardreplogle.com/essays/c… wow... |
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I recently thought my 70 meter rope would stretch to down-climbable terrain so I skipped a tat station and made it to my knots and realized not quite. I was using a Mammut alpine smart and since it is already in locking mode it was very easy to get my feet on just about anything and pull on the rope above the device with my left hand while taking up slack below the device with my right and ascend quickly and easily without having to change a thing. Freehanging would probably be too hard and I would have had to rig a sling to a prussik above the device like what is shown here https://youtu.be/WcUmdGIf21o?t=150 |
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The rappels present unusual challenges for many climbers, especially since most of them overhang
<snip> The first person to rappel takes the quickdraws... As this person descends, they must clip the rap line into enough of the bolts to stay in contact with the cliff! If they don’t they may find themselves hanging 10′ from the wall and 30′ above the water. (Shit, time to get out the ascenders!) When the first person gets to the belay anchors, they clip-in using the slings girth-hitched to their harness, then clip the end of the rap line into the anchor too. It’s very important to maintain control of the end of the rap line. The second person down unclips the rap rope from the draws as they descend and may end up free-hanging over the sea. The first person then pulls them into the belay. If you don't know or can't see the next rap station, it's very important to maintain contact with the wall. If sport, clip some bolts. If trad, place a piece or two or three. Knots in the ends, especially at night. |
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If you're sport climbing, even multi-pitch sport climbing, going off the end of the rope happens due to human error resulting from not planning the lower/rappel taking in consideration the distance from station to station and the length of the rope. But this does occur therefore tying knots (or tying the end of the rope to your harness) is a "best" practice. Unfortunately some climbers think it's not "cool" to tie knots (or wear helmets or use third hands!). |
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Rock climb multipitch usually with double 60m, multi pitch ice usually double 70m. almost never run out of rope... It is pretty fun to get on something long you know you can hike with a single 60 or 70 but I only do that route if I am certain about the raps. any kind of real adventure I like the doubles... |
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Danny Herrera wrote: howardreplogle.com/essays/c… this should be required reading for every beginning climber. |
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Wow! That was some story! |
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Nick Goldsmith wrote: Rock climb multipitch usually with double 60m, multi pitch ice usually double 70m. almost never run out of rope... It is pretty fun to get on something long you know you can hike with a single 60 or 70 but I only do that route if I am certain about the raps. any kind of real adventure I like the doubles... Two ropes, one ahead to the leader (now my belayer) one trailing, to the other climber, who was the next lead. Both ropes tied into my noob self. This is how my two.experienced partners took me up my third, yes, third, multi at Rifle a few weeks ago. Just unclip draws, reclip to the next rope. It was a very straightforward way to let me come up also, with not much actual experience. They were very gracious, and made sure I knew what was going on, what to do, and was comfortable with all of it. Each trip I have taken, some kind soul has given me patient mentoring. I am so grateful, and in turn, I help out others when I am able to, also. Best, Helen |
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If I'm doing unknown rapping in an area I can't just find a new anchor (tree gear block ext) I lower myself with a gri gri. Really easy to switch to juggling. |