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Lou Hibbard
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Aug 11, 2019
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Eagan, MN
· Joined Mar 2006
· Points: 1,120
When I ticked some boulder problems recently I noticed onsight isn't an option - only flash is. For roped routes both flash and onsight are options.
Is this because it is hard to get near a boulder problem without a boulderer spewing beta and therefore a true onsight is not a possibility? But what if you are alone as I was? I couldn't resist the snarky opportunity - maybe lingo has changed. I am getting old.
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Alex Holmann
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Aug 11, 2019
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Seattle, WA
· Joined Jan 2019
· Points: 113
I have heard that since boulders are so low you can easily feel the holds and see all the moves which negates the onsight. I think you should be able to onsight a highball though...
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5.Seven Kevin
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Aug 11, 2019
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Las Vegas, NV
· Joined Mar 2016
· Points: 0
Go onsight Too Big to Flail and report back
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Travis S
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Aug 11, 2019
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Colorado
· Joined Jul 2018
· Points: 70
I always thought it was because boulder problems can be so contrived that you have to have beta to even know if you did the correct route. I.e. sometimes I great jug will be off for a certain problem etc
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CrimpDaddy WesP
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Aug 12, 2019
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Chattanooga!!
· Joined Dec 2015
· Points: 3,593
Onsighting a boulder is certainly possible, I think that it just depends on the nature of the route. If you are there alone, or if no one else sessions the moves with you, and if there really aren't any other problems that you might dab on, I think it can be an onsight. Its just that typically you can see exactly where you need to go, so its more about how hard you can climb rather than routefinding skillz
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Pnelson
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Aug 12, 2019
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jan 2015
· Points: 635
The consensus in bouldering for the past few decades has been that you can only flash, not onsight boulders for the reasons folks have mentioned above.
We can worry about changing the terms as soon as someone claims a true onsight of Ambrosia or TBTF. If you want to claim an onsight of something like Melon Patch or Advanced Rockcraft Arete, you probably care too much about your ticklist.
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Patrick Murphy
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Aug 12, 2019
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Atlanta, GA
· Joined Jun 2017
· Points: 6
Alex Holmann wrote: I have heard that since boulders are so low you can easily feel the holds and see all the moves which negates the onsight. I think you should be able to onsight a highball though... If you feel the holds, then that would also negate the flash.
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Cody Ratterman
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Aug 12, 2019
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Logan, UT
· Joined Jul 2016
· Points: 668
An onsight is first try, no falls, no pre-inspection/feeling of anything except the start holds, and no purposeful image/video/word of mouth beta. By this definition of you climb a Boulder correctly, ground up, on your first try, and without other's help/advice then I'd consider it an onsight and differentiate the two for personal accounts.
Since bouldering is so social and a much more difficult 'puzzle' to be honest few really try to onsight hard problems because someone is always there to offer advice and the holds are already in front of your face to clean and feel... so why decline the help? This is a time where MP is justifiably simplifying your options. If someone cares to differentiate they can say so in the notes on their route tick.
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NegativeK
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Aug 12, 2019
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Nevada
· Joined Jul 2016
· Points: 40
Pat MurphTRON wrote: If you feel the holds, then that would also negate the flash. What if I feel their aura?
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Patrick Murphy
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Aug 12, 2019
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Atlanta, GA
· Joined Jun 2017
· Points: 6
NegativeK wrote: What if I feel their aura? Auras and e-meter readings are an integral part of most high-end flashes. Feel with the soul, but don't touch the holds!
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Marc H
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Aug 12, 2019
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Longmont, CO
· Joined May 2007
· Points: 265
Probably because bouldering isn’t actually rock climbing.
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Bryan K
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Aug 12, 2019
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Chattanooga
· Joined Jul 2016
· Points: 699
If being able to see/know all of the holds and/or sequences from the ground negates an onsight, does that mean you can only flash routes at Indian Creek if you know the gear? Cam sizes tell you all you need to know about the jams for a splitter. Not really much guess work about the moves for an 80 foot crack and 8 #2 camalots.
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Zacks
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Aug 12, 2019
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Apr 2015
· Points: 65
bkozak wrote: does that mean you can only flash routes at Indian Creek if you know the gear? Cam sizes tell you all you need to know about the jams for a splitter. Not really much guess work about the moves for an 80 foot crack and 8 #2 camalots. But is it baggy 2s or tight 2s? I need to know how much tape to put on.
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Cody Ratterman
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Aug 12, 2019
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Logan, UT
· Joined Jul 2016
· Points: 668
One theoretical situation I've wondered about is if April climber practiced on an indoor simulator problem made by someone else for and outdoor route, then did the outdoor route first try. Could it still be considered a flash? It seems like it kills the point of not knowing the body positions or full situation ahead of time, but really isn't much different from Ondra's assisted visualization and technically follows the flashing definition.
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