After a late 2006 injury and then 2007 shoulder surgery - I can still climb "hard" all day for 2-3 days in a row but it hurts afterwards and I'm at a much lower onsight level (above ratings currently about right). Also doing lots of mountain hikes now.

I used to be really into all types of climbing (crack, slab, sport, ice, snow) - had a little bit of a fetish for offwidths but hurt my shoulder before I had a chance to get really good on them.
Always gave the onsight my all- never hung on or grabbed gear unless I had already fallen or was doing an aid pitch.
Never really found my trad lead limits before I got hurt - I was working my way up through the classics in every area, getting everything clean, usually first try.
The last few years prior to injury I was working my way up to Astroman as a main goal - but focusing on the journey and waiting until I felt I could do it in good style. I was about one year away. Had done first three pitches clean on a quick scope out.