Slowest Method of Climbing with a Party of Three

Pitons...lots and lots of pitons

Climb with Americans and let them build the belays.......  

I was on snake dike this past may and the party of three ahead of us somehow took an hour and half to lead pitch 5d espite there literally being two bolts on it and a bolted anchor and it being absolutely jug hauling 5.4 

On multi pitch sport, talk about how safe you are, at 2 bolt anchor take 15 minutes to build "equalized" anchor with lockers on every point.  Now that you have used up all of your lockers, just say fuck it, and put your partners on belay with a non locker (one of the most important places for a locker).  Get to belay and see rope running over the belay biner gate.  

True story.  Rando partner from MoPro.  

Rant over.

Jim Titt wrote: Climb with Americans and let them build the belays.......  

This is true! One time climbing South Crack in TM... my friend and I were in the long line of climbers. A older German man and middle age women were the party behind us..... that dude got to each belay and placed ONE hex- sort of tipped out. They were fast and were on our tail all day..... I had a good time using my horrible German on them and sharing smokes. The real slow down was the party of 3 ahead of us. 

They kept sending somebody out on the point who had never lead a climb! They would freeze up.... get directions from below.. go a few more moves and stall out- get lowered to belay. At about 3/4 of the climb frend and I go for the variation out right.... Germans follow us... shortly afterwards we are all hanging on summit. German dude points down the climb and says “dumkops”Like I said my German blows. 

june m wrote: Climb with stoners, smoke a lot of weed at every  belay, take shoes off between pitches,   since you are stoned make sure you snack  together at the belay.  Place  gear close enuf to aid  climb, but  back clean it  because  your rack isn't big enuf. Being so stoned the leader takes  a long time to set up a trad belay. (I got bored and started  free soloing) using  this method it takes all day  to  climb a 200 ft   4 pitch  route.(true  story)

I actually was stuck behind a group like this in Vegas once.  All day for Olive Oil.

Anonymous wrote: Step 1) Lead solo
Step 2) Rap
Step 3a) Ascend
Step 3b) Clean
Step 4) Secure yourself to the anchor
Step 5a) Throw down gear
Step 5b) Throw down rope
Step 6) Drink a beer

Have second and third repeat steps 1-6 until all three are at the anchor. Start the whole process over again for another 12 pitches.

This kind of makes me think about the actual process of lead soloing multipitch:

1. Lead solo.
2. Build anchor.
3. Rap (maybe clean along the way).
4. TR solo (maybe clean along the way).
5. Re-prepare the rope.
6. Go to 1.

And there's not really any way around doing all these steps, even if you're good at them. If you are doing this on a long enough route, you'll need to bring overnight gear, at which point hauling adds in a whole other level of slowness.

I like to think I'm a patient man, but TR soloing is my limit of patience.

Andrew Krajnik wrote:

It worked for Tommy and Kevin. They stayed up there for 19 days! XD

That's why I didn't climb the Dawn Wall when I was there at the same time. It was so annoying waiting for them to finish pitches.