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Charlie Martz
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Jul 17, 2019
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Fort Collins
· Joined May 2017
· Points: 45
So here's the situation: You are climbing multiptich (preferably on a classic route with few options for passing) in a group of three because, apparently, you enjoy the silent rage that develops in parties behind you. The question is: Whats the slowest possible way to climb with a party of three in order to maximise other people's frustration?
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Adam Gallimore
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Jul 17, 2019
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Greensboro
· Joined Mar 2018
· Points: 430
You could have one follower on one rope and the other on a different rope. The leader only takes up one rope with them and begins to belay the second. Once the second reaches the top, the third is then belayed.
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MojoMonkey
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Jul 17, 2019
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jan 2009
· Points: 66
I saw a group in Seneca with one leader, one rope, and lots of followers. After a follower made it up, they'd untie and throw the rope back down for the next to climb.
I suppose the leader could have rapped down to check their knot and ascended the line if they really wanted to be thorough.
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William P
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Jul 17, 2019
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jul 2017
· Points: 0
Bring a portaledge and claim you're practicing for a NIAD attempt.
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MojoMonkey
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Jul 17, 2019
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jan 2009
· Points: 66
Adam Gallimore wrote: You could have one follower on one rope and the other on a different rope. The leader only takes up one rope with them and begins to belay the second. Once the second reaches the top, the third is then belayed. Inchworm style.
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Jordy Clements
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Jul 17, 2019
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Incline Village, NV
· Joined Jul 2015
· Points: 41
Single cord. Tie the second into the midpoint with an 8-on-a-bite, have them follow, then have the third follow separately, when and only when the second has completed their pitch, up to the belay. Use a 50m to "keep it old school" and pitch out the Bastille in like 600 pitches.
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Soft Catch
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Jul 17, 2019
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Oct 2018
· Points: 0
Adam Gallimore wrote: You could have one follower on one rope and the other on a different rope. The leader only takes up one rope with them and begins to belay the second. Once the second reaches the top, the third is then belayed. That's called the caterpillar method and it doesn't have to be slow, especially if the same person leads every pitch. Leader can be racking up with the second person up belays the third. With a grigri and guide mode device the leader could even start before the third is done, middle person belays both at the same time OP asked about the slowest method. That would be with one rope, untie and throw it down to the third after every pitch as Mojo described above. Even better if the route has some traversing and getting the rope down requires multiple attempts. Alternate leads to increase the cluster factor even more.
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Buck Rio
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Jul 17, 2019
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MN
· Joined Jul 2015
· Points: 16
Climb with me bro', I am old and slow...
I am going to use Bastille Crack as an example...show up before the park even opens and dump your gear at the base and rope up like you're going to climb. Drink coffee for at least 30 minutes before you decide who is going to lead first. The trick on the first pitch is to place a lot of gear, and use the intermediate belay bolts instead of the higher gear anchor. Always make sure you bring up each follower individually. Repeat ad nauseum.
The ropes should be piled together in no particular organization, so they will get snarled, resulting in yelling and crying.
No gear should be extended. resulting in heinous rope drag, stuck cams and resulting retrieval efforts/hanging/cursing.
The second shouldn't make any effort to pre-rack gear for a quick turnaround.
Every belay should be an opportunity to post to Instagram, take off shoes and drink Kombu Cha.
Rap the route, even though there is an easy walk off.
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Bill Kirby
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Jul 17, 2019
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Keene New York
· Joined Jul 2012
· Points: 480
Tricams definitely tricams
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Serge S
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Jul 17, 2019
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Seattle, WA
· Joined Oct 2015
· Points: 688
You guys aren't thinking outside the box. Have each of the 3 lead every pitch.
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Marc801 C
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Jul 17, 2019
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Sandy, Utah
· Joined Feb 2014
· Points: 65
Buck Rio wrote: Climb with me bro', I am old and slow...
I am going to use Bastille Crack as an example...show up before the park even opens and dump your gear at the base and rope up like you're going to climb. Drink coffee for at least 30 minutes before you decide who is going to lead first. The trick on the first pitch is to place a lot of gear, and use the intermediate belay bolts instead of the higher gear anchor. Always make sure you bring up each follower individually. Repeat ad nauseum.
The ropes should be piled together in no particular organization, so they will get snarled, resulting in yelling and crying.
No gear should be extended. resulting in heinous rope drag, stuck cams and resulting retrieval efforts/hanging/cursing.
The second shouldn't make any effort to pre-rack gear for a quick turnaround.
Every belay should be an opportunity to post to Instagram, take off shoes and drink Kombu Cha.
Rap the route, even though there is an easy walk off. You forgot something that one of my partners would do (that drove the rest of us insane): 10-15 minutes of stretching exercises before climbing.
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grog m
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Jul 17, 2019
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Saltlakecity
· Joined Aug 2012
· Points: 70
Wow this is good. Alright here is how you do it - climb in a party of three. First leader climbs to the high crux and gets scared and cries. After calming down, you then builds a gear anchor 10 feet below the actual anchor and belays the other two up to said gear anchor. Then the same person proceeds to lead to the anchor 10 feet away, and belay the other two up.
You then repeat the process again on actual pitch 2, maybe without the crying.
This happened to a party ahead of me. On Castleton, on North Chimney. Its only 5.8+ right? I can lead 5.8 on Wallstreet, I should be good.
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Marc801 C
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Jul 17, 2019
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Sandy, Utah
· Joined Feb 2014
· Points: 65
Attentive Follower wrote: That's called the caterpillar method and it doesn't have to be slow, especially if the same person leads every pitch. Leader can be racking up with the second person up belays the third. With a grigri and guide mode device the leader could even start before the third is done, middle person belays both at the same time A lot of my climbing has been with 3 people, and bitd the caterpillar or inchworm was the way to do it. We got really good and efficient and had it totally dialed. We regularly passed parties of two, even on stuff that was hard for us. It always seemed that while many of the slower parties were able to climb relatively quickly, they'd take 20 minutes at the belay changovers. Racking on their harnesses was often a huge time-suck, with *every* piece and racking biner being handled at least twice.
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Matt N
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Jul 17, 2019
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CA
· Joined Oct 2010
· Points: 425
Have everyone wear a backpack.
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B Jolley
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Jul 17, 2019
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Utah
· Joined Mar 2015
· Points: 172
Use only one rope and always haul an extra bag or three with the same rope. Be sure to setup a portaledge blocking the route at each belay to increase comfort between pitches. Climber 1 climbs up P1 to setup a solo TR, raps down so they can solo it as well, climber 2 TR solos P1. climber 3 must be hauled up because they are a quadriplegic. Rinse and repeat.
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FrankPS
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Jul 17, 2019
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Atascadero, CA
· Joined Nov 2009
· Points: 276
Each person practices escaping the belay, On every pitch.
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Buck Rio
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Jul 17, 2019
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MN
· Joined Jul 2015
· Points: 16
Lead the route, and fix a trail line. If the route wanders clip the trail rope too. Bring up second and third person solos on a Microtrax on the fixed line. Oh wait, that is how to climb fast, never mind...
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Andrew Krajnik
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Jul 17, 2019
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Plainfield, IL
· Joined Jul 2016
· Points: 1,739
Serge Smirnov wrote: You guys aren't thinking outside the box. Have each of the 3 lead every pitch. It worked for Tommy and Kevin. They stayed up there for 19 days! XD
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Brandon Fields
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Jul 17, 2019
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Boulder, CO
· Joined Apr 2016
· Points: 5
Bring someone who has never climbed before and post up on every pitch red point siege style. Lower them to start over after every fall/take. Every time the newbie goes for another redpoint attempt, make sure they scream, “THIS IS MY DAWN WALL”.
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Bill Kirby
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Jul 17, 2019
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Keene New York
· Joined Jul 2012
· Points: 480
Victory whip every placement.. leader and both followers
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june m
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Jul 17, 2019
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elmore, vt
· Joined Jun 2011
· Points: 120
Climb with stoners, smoke a lot of weed at every belay, take shoes off between pitches, since you are stoned make sure you snack together at the belay. Place gear close enuf to aid climb, but back clean it because your rack isn't big enuf. Being so stoned the leader takes a long time to set up a trad belay. (I got bored and started free soloing) using this method it takes all day to climb a 200 ft 4 pitch route.(true story)
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