Bad Bolts in Las Vegas

The Gun Club - Point Blank has a spinning bolt. 2nd down from the anchors. Just needs tightening.

Thanks!

1) Frogland, Whiskey Peak
2) The one protection bolt on the Tunnel Pitch (P5)
3) The stud is loose in the hole.  It's a 1/2" ASCA 5 piece.

Max Tepfer wrote: 1) Frogland, Whiskey Peak
2) The one protection bolt on the Tunnel Pitch (P5)
3) The stud is loose in the hole.  It's a 1/2" ASCA 5 piece.

If I recall, there's not supposed to be a bolt on the tunnel pitch. There wasn't one there when I climbed it in 2015

eli poss wrote:

If I recall, there's not supposed to be a bolt on the tunnel pitch. There wasn't one there when I climbed it in 2015

 I think all 3 points are referring to frogland. I thought it was referring to Tunnel Vision at first, which doesnt have any bolts, but frogland has one on pitch 5, protecting a face move off the belay

David Bruneau wrote:

 I think all 3 points are referring to frogland. I thought it was referring to Tunnel Vision at first, which doesnt have any bolts, but frogland has one on pitch 5, protecting a face move off the belay

Yep, you're right. My bad, I thought he was talking about 3 seperate bolts, which didn't make a ton of sense to me either. 

SNevadaClimbersCoalition wrote: ...
     If you come across a suspicious bolt, please post to this thread the following information:
1) The route name and area.
2) The location of the bolt (include as much information as possible).
3) A description of the problem (the type or appearance of the bolt and what the problem is).
 If at all possible a photo of the suspect bolt/hardware would be appreciated.
Thanks for your help in maintaining the awesome climbing we all enjoy here in Vegas!
 (Additional information on bolt replace initiatives as well as best practices and identifying suspect/problem bolts can be found at the Access Funds anchor education page.) ------------

This is what I was referencing.  See the top post in the thread.

Refrigerator Wall

Greased Lightning-has the original anchor from the FA in 1989.  Rusted studs and SMC hangers.

Breakaway-all original hardware from the FA in 1991.  Rusted 3/8" studs with SMC hangers.  2 out of the 3 anchor bolts are protruding from the wall and are loose.  

This is at the top of Drifting. The sling is pretty ghetto.  It’s a shame the bolts are so far apart. The rock looks fine between them. (Tho maybe taps with a hammer would prove me wrong). Regardless, seems like a candidate for some metal hardware or other type of update given how classic/popular the route is.

Any rebolters following this?  I'm in town for a week (until 22nd) and happy to go out and do some work.  I dont have any bolts/glue with me but if there is a local collective I'm more than happy to put in some hours.  I have drill/tools/etc.

This thread is followed, and is the main place to report bad hardware.  Thanks for reaching out, we'll let you know.

The anchor bolts on One Man's Kokopelli and the second to last protection bolt on Synapse Collapse, at Cannabis Crag, are in pretty bad shape.

"Bonaire" at Black Corridor has a persistently loose left bolt on the anchor.  Not serious, can be tightened enough by hand/nut tool, but worth noting for the next maintenance round at that crag.

Did not read anything above.  Just saying, you have no idea how bad the 1/4"ers were back in the day.  That being said, give credit to those that went before you.  You do not like the pro?  Back off, or ask the FA if you could improve the situation. 

A lot of the old 1/4" SMC bolts on Sonic Youth; namesake route, Agent Orange, Loki, etc, are in bad shape, and really should be replaced with glue-ins.  The anchor clips on Loki are really nice Fixe Dracos but the anchor bolts are the old style bolt/washer/chain combo, and also should be replaced.

B K wrote: A lot of the old 1/4" SMC bolts on Sonic Youth; namesake route, Agent Orange, Loki, etc, are in bad shape, and really should be replaced with glue-ins.  The anchor clips on Loki are really nice Fixe Dracos but the anchor bolts are the old style bolt/washer/chain combo, and also should be replaced.

While the Sonic Youth cliff is certainly worthy of a rebolt, those bolts are for sure not 1/4".  They are 3/8".  I've whipped on a number of them recently without a lot of worry, but I would still love to see them replaced with some new bolter-bot glue-ins or some big 1/2" power bolts.  

Straight Outta Compton (Compton Cave):

The 2nd bolt/permadraw pulled out of the wall yesterday (July 15, 2019). The bolt was already looking loose the day before. All of the hardware, including the actual bolt, look to be in good condition. I left the hardware in the cave to the right of the start of Straight Outta Compton. Didn't get to inspect the rest of the bolts too closely but they all seemed fine. 

The 5th bolt on Warlord @ The Corrosion Cave is done. The sleeve is fractured and the shaft is visibly bent and protruding from its hole. 

This is Sparta, Civilization Crag.

Third bolt.

The bolt wiggles in its hole. But https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106757203/this-is-sparta indicates it's been wigglin' for at least four years.

Walla Walla
Hundredth Monkey -  fixie supershut anchor bolt and hanger is loose.

B K wrote: The 5th bolt on Warlord @ The Corrosion Cave is done. The sleeve is fractured and the shaft is visibly bent and protruding from its hole. 

The 3rd bolt on this route has been replaced.  Not sure if that was the bolt in question as the rest of the bolts were in good shape.  The 5th bolt is a stud bolt.