Bad Bolts in Las Vegas


JSH · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2007 · Points: 960

At Magic Bus, the route that starts to the left of the upside-down V (Technicolor Sunrise?): on the left mussy hook, the gate is broken and has a very sharp tip.

Many thanks for all you do, folks.

SNevadaClimbersCoalition · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 15
JSH wrote:At Magic Bus, the route that starts to the left of the upside-down V (Technicolor Sunrise?): on the left mussy hook, the gate is broken and has a very sharp tip. Many thanks for all you do, folks.
Thank you, we will make a note of it.
SNevadaClimbersCoalition · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 15

We are happy to report the resolutions to the following issues

STRATOCASTER AREA

  • The Deluxe: Missing an anchor bolt. Reported by John Wilder.

Both anchor bolts were replaced with Fixe SS 3/8 x 6 1/2 Glue-In Bolts and then equipped with new quicklinks and rap rings.

  • Marshal Amp: First bolt is looking pretty bad. Reported by Anonymous stratocaster climber.

Replaced with a Fixe SS 3/8 x 6 1/2 Glue-In Bolt.

SWEET PAIN WALL

  • The Gambler: 2nd bolt has pulled out of the wall approximately 2cm so the bolt hanger spins freely. This bolt was pounded in, not one that can be tightened with a wrench. Reported by Projicarus

Replaced with a Fixe SS 3/8 x 6 1/2 Glue-In Bolt.

FRONT CORRIDOR

  • Pockets of Dirt: Second-to-last bolt is loose. Reported by jessy.

Replaced with a Fixe SS 3/8 x 6 1/2 Glue-In Bolt.
Erik Kloeker · · Cincinnati, Ohio · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 40

The fixed draw on the third bolt on The Gift (if you include the shared bolt with Yaak crack) is aluminum on the bottom and sharp enough to cut a rope. It should be updated to steel to match the rest of the route. 2nd bolt on Save the Heart to Eat Later at Cannibal is a spinner, sorry didn't have my wrench to tighten. Ma and Pa Kettle still has no anchors besides the ones on top, I guess they got chopped awhile back. I don't see any reason it shouldn't have it's own set but to each their own.

Cheers!

John Wilder · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2004 · Points: 1,530

Rappelled Fiddler on the Roof today and the bolts have reached a point where I wouldn't feel comfortable clipping them. At least three belays have one good bolt each, and the traverse pitch looks like someone put in new hardware, but it might be time to rally and refit this classic with new hardware.

I'm happy to donate asca hardware, drill, and other kit to the cause. Probably don't have time to hand drill, but would be willing to help fix lines.

Weston L · · Summerlin, NV · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 808

Burns wall...

All routes anchor bolts in need of replacement.  Pro bolts seemed ok.  

Jungle wall has some aging bolts, especially on emerald forest.  

Cassandra Dobutovich · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 0

Second Pullout // Black Corridor // Heavy Hitter

4th bolt up is spinning and the screw holding the bolt in needs to be tightened. The bolt looks in good condition and just needs tightening.

Reported by Cassandra D. 

John Wilder · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2004 · Points: 1,530

Inti Watana, entire route soon, crux bolt immediately (will likely not hold a fall) 

Many bolts are rusted out, spinning, or otherwise less than inspiring. 

SNevadaClimbersCoalition · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 15
Erik Kloeker wrote: The fixed draw on the third bolt on The Gift (if you include the shared bolt with Yaak crack) is aluminum on the bottom and sharp enough to cut a rope. It should be updated to steel to match the rest of the route. 2nd bolt on Save the Heart to Eat Later at Cannibal is a spinner, sorry didn't have my wrench to tighten. Ma and Pa Kettle still has no anchors besides the ones on top, I guess they got chopped awhile back. I don't see any reason it shouldn't have it's own set but to each their own. Cheers!

Thanks!

SNevadaClimbersCoalition · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 15
John Wilder wrote: Rappelled Fiddler on the Roof today and the bolts have reached a point where I wouldn't feel comfortable clipping them. At least three belays have one good bolt each, and the traverse pitch looks like someone put in new hardware, but it might be time to rally and refit this classic with new hardware. I'm happy to donate asca hardware, drill, and other kit to the cause. Probably don't have time to hand drill, but would be willing to help fix lines.

We will add it to the list , and we appreciate the offer to lend a hand!

SNevadaClimbersCoalition · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 15
Weston L wrote:

Burns wall...

All routes anchor bolts in need of replacement.  Pro bolts seemed ok.  

Jungle wall has some aging bolts, especially on emerald forest.  

Noted , and thank you!

SNevadaClimbersCoalition · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 15
Cassandra Dobutovich wrote:

Second Pullout // Black Corridor // Heavy Hitter

4th bolt up is spinning and the screw holding the bolt in needs to be tightened. The bolt looks in good condition and just needs tightening.

Reported by Cassandra D. 

We will take a look at it and either tighten it properly or replace it , Thanks!

SNevadaClimbersCoalition · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 15
John Wilder wrote:

Inti Watana, entire route soon, crux bolt immediately (will likely not hold a fall) 

Many bolts are rusted out, spinning, or otherwise less than inspiring. 

Thanks! Inti .....has had quite an influx of reports as of late and it might be a task force kind of approach to getting it fixed up , thanks for the report! 

John Wilder · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2004 · Points: 1,530
SNevadaClimbersCoalition wrote:

Thanks! Inti .....has had quite an influx of reports as of late and it might be a task force kind of approach to getting it fixed up , thanks for the report! 

Let me know if you guys need help. I'll also have time in August to do Fiddler. 

Fernando Cal · · Long Beach, CA · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 5

Texas Tea (Black Corridor): Spinner hangar reported by Fernando Cal

John Wilder · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2004 · Points: 1,530

Tooth or Consequences, Pine Creek. 

All anchors and protection bolts are 1/4" and should be updated to 3/8" hardware in the next year or so. All anchors need links/rings except the last anchor, which will need 12" of chain on each bolt (or there abouts).

If someone goes up to put on rap hardware on this route, bring a wrench and bolt cutters, as you'll need to turn all the hangers to the correct orientation and chop the existing rings (they're not good for long term use). 

Rosscarl · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 10

The First bolt on She's deadly has worked its way out quite a bit. I could fit a finger between the hanger and the wall. Bolt 4 could use tightening as well.

David Kerkeslager · · Brooklyn, NY · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 45

The Die is Cast (The Hamlet, First Pullout) The fourth bolt is a spinner. It didn't move when I yanked on it.

Panty Prow (Panty Wall, First Pullout) One of the gates on the mussey hooks is broken.

John Wilder · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2004 · Points: 1,530

9/15/17- the anchors on Fiddler that are used for the Sour Mash rappels have been updated to stainless 1/2" hardware. See Fiddlers page on mountain project for details. 

I should also note that the the pro bolts and remaining original anchor bolts on this route are so suspect due to poor installation and rust, I would not count on any of them to hold a real fall. I was unable to rally the troops this summer to get them replaced, but am willing to try again either mid winter or early next summer. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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