Bad Bolts in Las Vegas

UPDATED 9/30/23.

Any bolts posted before this date, not on this updated list, have most likely been taken care of, by us or someone else.

(Deleting posts about completed work is greatly appreciated, as well as other posts that aren't specific to helping those who rebolt.)

   This thread serves as a clearinghouse for fixed hardware that is known to be in need of replacement in the Las Vegas area - including Red Rock and the various local limestone areas. It's primary purpose is to steer local rebolting efforts to where they're most needed. The majority of this work is done by volunteers though the Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition in conjunction with the American Safe Climbing Association.

     If you come across a suspicious bolt, please post to this thread the following information:

1) The route name and area.

2) The location of the bolt (include as much information as possible).

3) A description of the problem (the type or appearance of the bolt and what the problem is).

 If at all possible a photo of the suspect bolt/hardware would be appreciated.

Thanks for your help in maintaining the awesome climbing we all enjoy here in Vegas!

 (Additional information on bolt replace initiatives as well as best practices and identifying suspect/problem bolts can be found at the Access Funds anchor education page.) ------------------------------------------------------------------------

CALICO BASIN

Ranch Hands Crag *Payless Cashaway:top anchor to payless cashaway on ranch hands crag at calico basin glue in eye bolts loose not able to pull out yet but wiggles in every direction 2 side by side both loose. Reported by Randall Hufstetler.

Cannabis Crag *One Man's Kokopelli: Anchor needs replacing. Reported by BK.

Cannibal Crag *Caustic: Worn lowering gear.

Cowlick Crag *Flying Chuckwalla: Worn lowering gear

Sunny and Steep *Slot Machine: Crux B3 is loose. Likely just tighten.

Burns Wall *Hand Drilled Heaven: Loose 2nd bolt.

FIRST PULLOUT

Black Hole Wall *The anchor on top of Black Hole Wall (1st pullout) is suffering some rust. At least one route is rusty sleeve bolts with SMC hangers. (Inspect.)

The Slab *Slabadabado: Quicklinks needs replacing

SECOND PULLOUT

*Pigs in Zen: Inspect the protection and anchor bolts.

*Chrome Dome: Hangers are installed on top of washers (inspect).

*Sandblaster (at the Sand Box): Anchors need replacement.

SANDSTONE QUARRY

Sonic Youth Wall Needs a general overhaul, with lots of Glue Ins. Loki has washer stack anchors.

*Hooligans: Bolts and anchors (old homemade hangers). Reported by Josh Janes

*Cosmos: Anchor is washer stacks and chain.

 The Pier  *Under the Boardwalk: Bolt 5 is wallowed out and needs a glue in.

                  *Poco Owes me a Concert: Washer stacks with worn leaver biners.

James Brown *James Brown: Replace anchor. Reported by BK

                        *External Locus: Entire route needs replacement. Reported by BK

PINE CREEK CANYON

*Short Circuit: Bolts and Anchor need replacing. 

*Parental Guidance: P2 Anchor needs replacing.

*Lethal Weapon: Rebolt possibly. 

 *Edge of the Sun: P3 bolts are long studs that may not be deeply embedded.

JUNIPER CANYON

*Armatron:  Several loose anchor and pro bolts.  Reported by Travis O'Neill

*Smooth Operator: Loose anchor bolt mid route.

*Nightcrawler: P5 Anchor.

OAK CREEK CANYON

*Arch Enemy: P1 Anchor has spinning bolts.

BLACK VELVET CANYON

*Sandstone Samurai: P2 has 2x 1/4" w/ Leepers pro bolts, and 1x 1/4" w/ Leeper + 1x 3/8" w/ SMC hanger at the anchor. P3 has 1x 1/4" w/ Leeper + 1x 3/8" w/ SMC hanger at the anchor, P4 has 1x 3/8" w/ SMC hanger (and one piton) at the anchor. P5 has 4x pro bolts and 2x anchor bolts in need of replacement. Reported by Jon Clark & Josh Janes

*Sand Felipe: 2nd anchor,  right bolt needs tightening. 

*Fiddler on the Roof: p5 anchor, right bolt is very loose.

*Texas Tower: One of the lower anchors has been affected by rockfall. New hangers minimum. Traverse pitch should be rebolted.

THE GUN CLUB 

*Mini-Gun: the 5th bolt, the one protecting the roof is loose, just needs tightening. .reported by jacob koffler

*Point Blank: 2nd to last bolt needs tightening. Reported by PatO.   Anchor needs replacing (both bolts an inch out of rock).

Mount Charleston

*Hundredth Monkey: Super Shut anchor bolt is loose. Reported by Gerson R.

*Stay Foolish: 2nd bolt is loose.

*Borderline: 2nd bolt is failing.

*Big Flake: Anchor is open shunts

ARROW CANYON

*Heart of Glass: Anchor needs replacement.

*Kill Bill: Anchor in need of immediate replacement.

Please use this format if possible:

Climb (Area): Description of the issue. Reported by (your username).

Thanks!

Frogland , Whiskey Peak top of pitch 2 anchor bolts are gone; only option is to build a gear anchor. Also as noted earlier, only bolt on pitch 5 slab crux is loose and spinning.

Leslie McG wrote:Frogland , Whiskey Peak top of pitch 2 anchor bolts are gone; only option is to build a gear anchor. Also as noted earlier, only bolt on pitch 5 slab crux is loose and spinning.

OH NOES! So you're saying that on a trad route, the only option where there once were bolts, is to build a GEAR anchor?? It's been a while and my memory is a bit hazy but doesn't this route have a walk off?

Also of note, is the bolt itself loose and spinning or is the HANGER spinning?

Greatly Confused,

Andre

Andre, the "loose bolt" is indeed loose in the hole. It could probably be pulled, the hole drilled to half-inch, and then replaced with a larger bolt. However that bolt doesn't do anything to protect the tricky move there anyway.

And Leslie, Frogland doesn't have ANY bolted anchors. At least it hasn't for 15+ years. I know it's crazy - this being Red Rocks and all - but one might have to build one's own anchors and walk off this naturally protected rock climb or otherwise leave gear to bail.

If the bolt itself is intact and it is just a spinning hanger, it's not a "Bad bolt" - this thread is intended for those who are replacing bolts to find out about that which requires outright replacement. Not just something that needs a wrench taken to it for a couple of turns.

Route: Neon Sunset
Wall: Magic Bus

Left side anchor bolt and chain missing at the top. Right side chain and bolt are still good.

Choking Smokers at the Walrus in Sandstone Quarry is missing the first bolt

Just took another lap on Inti about a week ago.

Crux bolt on P2 seems to be getting even worse but can easily get backed up.
The entire route is soon to be due for an update as almost all of the bolts are now aging, some of them better than others.

Also, haven't been up there in a while but I just heard that the star drive on the texas tower connection traverse pitch is getting to be even sportier.

Thanks for the hard work

P3 bolt hanger on risky business is of the same variety as the homemade hangers on Excellent Adventure. I thought these all looked pretty good, they seem to be painted brown or only lightly rusted and made of very thick metal angle. You can back the Risky Business bolt up a few feet before it with a nut ( I placed a DMM offset alloy).

SNevadaClimbersCoalition wrote:LAST UPDATED:5/10/2016 .... Pauligk's Pillar: First pitch anchor has bad bolts. Reported by Brian in SLC [but reported some time on or before 2/20/2014].

I am confused about the above.

• Handren's Red Rocks A Climbers Guide (2007) mentions no bolts;

Looking through the comments to the route there are these:

• 1/2009: "a tangle of slings at a very small ledge 100 feet off the ground"
• 6/2009: "ratty nest of slings at 100 feet on the 1st pitch", and
• 3/2014: "the anchor at 100 feet is no longer"

But then there is this:

• 7/2016: "Someone added a bolted belay station at the top of pitch one and a rap station down low on the route"

Are the recently installed bolts the "bad bolts" reported by Brian in SLC?

Bill Lawry wrote: I am confused about the above. * Handren's Red Rocks A Climbers Guide (2007) mentions no bolts; Looking through the comments to the route there are these: * 1/2009: "a tangle of slings at a very small ledge 100 feet off the ground" * 6/2009: "ratty nest of slings at 100 feet on the 1st pitch", and * 3/2014: "the anchor at 100 feet is no longer" But then there is this: * 7/2016: "Someone added a bolted belay station at the top of pitch one and a rap station down low on the route" Are the recently installed bolts the "bad bolts" reported by Brian in SLC?

I dimly recall referring to the mass of manky slings as "bad bolts". I don't recall a bolted anchor.

Thanks for the reply, Brian. Sounds like this one can be removed from the list.

Inti Watana entire lower half should be rebolted. Most of bolts used were non SS, hence most of them are rusted. I don't know why eople use non-SS hardware? Bolts looked like they were replaced not too long ago, but in all honesty non of them are confidence inspiring at all, particularly on lower half, mostly due to water seeping down that part of the wall.
Another question is: would bolting a separate rap route for Crimson Chrysalis help with epics on that route? Even if you are first on that route, you are pretty much guaranteed to rap over other parties climbing from below.

Bon Ez (black corridor): both rap rings are nearly 50% worn through. The left anchor bolt hanger and bolt spin. Reported by mbv

Burros dont gamble (black corridor): the first chain link is approximately 75% worn through (1st link attached to hanger).this applies to both left and right anchors. I moved the quicklinks that were on the ends of the two chains directly to the hanger. The chains should be removed and or replaced and should no longer be used. Both bolts and hangers still appear to be in good condition. Reported by mbv.

Sweet Pain Wall:
The Gambler
2nd bolt has pulled out of the wall approximately 2cm so the bolt hanger spins freely. This bolt was pounded in, not one that can be tightened with a wrench.

Gallery:
Range of Motion
First bolt hanger is still very loose

The fixed draw on the third bolt on The Gift (if you include the shared bolt with Yaak crack) is aluminum on the bottom and sharp enough to cut a rope. It should be updated to steel to match the rest of the route. 2nd bolt on Save the Heart to Eat Later at Cannibal is a spinner, sorry didn't have my wrench to tighten. Ma and Pa Kettle still has no anchors besides the ones on top, I guess they got chopped awhile back. I don't see any reason it shouldn't have it's own set but to each their own.

Cheers!

Burns wall...

All routes anchor bolts in need of replacement.  Pro bolts seemed ok.  

Jungle wall has some aging bolts, especially on emerald forest.  

Second Pullout // Black Corridor // Heavy Hitter

4th bolt up is spinning and the screw holding the bolt in needs to be tightened. The bolt looks in good condition and just needs tightening.

Reported by Cassandra D. 

Texas Tea (Black Corridor): Spinner hangar reported by Fernando Cal