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Bad Bolts in Las Vegas


Original Post
SNevadaClimbersCoalition · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 15

UPDATED May 13, 2019.
Any bolts posted before this date, not on this updated list, have most likely been taken care of, by us or someone else.
(Deleting posts about completed work is greatly appreciated, as well as other posts that aren't specific to helping those who rebolt.)

   This thread serves as a clearinghouse for fixed hardware that is known to be in need of replacement in the Las Vegas area - including Red Rock and the various local limestone areas. It's primary purpose is to steer local rebolting efforts to where they're most needed. The majority of this work is done by volunteers though the Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition in conjunction with the American Safe Climbing Association.
     If you come across a suspicious bolt, please post to this thread the following information:
1) The route name and area.
2) The location of the bolt (include as much information as possible).
3) A description of the problem (the type or appearance of the bolt and what the problem is).
 If at all possible a photo of the suspect bolt/hardware would be appreciated.
Thanks for your help in maintaining the awesome climbing we all enjoy here in Vegas!
 (Additional information on bolt replace initiatives as well as best practices and identifying suspect/problem bolts can be found at the Access Funds anchor education page.) ------------------------------------------------------------------------

CALICO BASIN
Existential Wall *Left Anchor: One hanger missing for two-bolt anchor. I see no reason for it to be missing. Since the individual routes are not yet added to MP, I don't have names for you. It's very obvious once you're on top. Reported by Sean Stoops.
Ranch Hands Crag *Payless Cashaway:top anchor to payless cashaway on ranch hands crag at calico basin glue in eye bolts loose not able to pull out yet but wiggles in every direction 2 side by side both loose. Reported by Randall Hufstetler.
Cannibal  *Base boy:  3rd bolt spinning/loose.  Reported by Milan Korda.

FIRST PULLOUT
*Viagra Falls: May be missing the final bolt. Reported by John Wilder.
Black Hole Wall *The anchor on top of Black Hole Wall (1st pullout) is suffering some rust. Reported by JSH.

SANDSTONE QUARRY
*Split Ends: The anchor is made of nylon webbing and a quicklink and has been frayed and sun-bleached far past it's life. Reported by Alex S
 *Hooligans: Bolts and anchors (old homemade hangers). Reported by Josh Janes

ICE BOX CANYON

*Breakaway: Older 3/8” bolts with SMC hangers. Anchor definitely needs repair. Reported by Neil Kauffman.
*Greased Lightning: Anchor is rusted studs and SMC hangers. Reported by Jon Clark.

PINE CREEK CANYON
 *Edge of the Sun: P3 bolts are long studs that may not be deeply embedded.
 *Drifting: Last anchor could be improved by new cord or steel update. Reported by Max Tepfer

MOUNT WILSON   Inti Wantana: All bolts replaced (First 2 pitches have been replaced).

BLACK VELVET CANYON
*Epinephrine: Second to last pitch on the ledge. The new bolt is gone, leaving the skinny bolt with the SMC hanger. Good gear anchor nearby though. Many upper pitches have one new bolt, one skinny w/ SMC hanger. Reported by mtnmandan
*Sandstone Samurai: P2 has 2x 1/4" w/ Leepers pro bolts, and 1x 1/4" w/ Leeper + 1x 3/8" w/ SMC hanger at the anchor. P3 has 1x 1/4" w/ Leeper + 1x 3/8" w/ SMC hanger at the anchor, P4 has 1x 3/8" w/ SMC hanger (and one piton) at the anchor. P5 has 4x pro bolts and 2x anchor bolts in need of replacement. Reported by Jon Clark & Josh Janes
*Frogland: P5 probolt loose. Most likely needs tightening. Reported by Max Tepfer.

WINDY PEAK  *Jubilant Song: The lone pro bolt is an old 1/4 incher. Reported by Josh Janes.

THE GUN CLUB 
*Mini-Gun: the 5th bolt, the one protecting the roof is loose, just needs tightening. .reported by jacob koffler
*Point Blank: 2nd to last bolt needs tightening. Reported by PatO.

Josh Janes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2001 · Points: 8,990

Please use this format if possible:

Climb (Area): Description of the issue. Reported by (your username).

Thanks!

l rs · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 380

Frogland , Whiskey Peak top of pitch 2 anchor bolts are gone; only option is to build a gear anchor. Also as noted earlier, only bolt on pitch 5 slab crux is loose and spinning.

Andre H. · · Boulder · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 5
Leslie McG wrote:Frogland , Whiskey Peak top of pitch 2 anchor bolts are gone; only option is to build a gear anchor. Also as noted earlier, only bolt on pitch 5 slab crux is loose and spinning.
OH NOES! So you're saying that on a trad route, the only option where there once were bolts, is to build a GEAR anchor?? It's been a while and my memory is a bit hazy but doesn't this route have a walk off?

Also of note, is the bolt itself loose and spinning or is the HANGER spinning?

Greatly Confused,

Andre
Josh Janes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2001 · Points: 8,990

Andre, the "loose bolt" is indeed loose in the hole. It could probably be pulled, the hole drilled to half-inch, and then replaced with a larger bolt. However that bolt doesn't do anything to protect the tricky move there anyway.

And Leslie, Frogland doesn't have ANY bolted anchors. At least it hasn't for 15+ years. I know it's crazy - this being Red Rocks and all - but one might have to build one's own anchors and walk off this naturally protected rock climb or otherwise leave gear to bail.

Weston L · · NEVADASTAN · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 851

If the bolt itself is intact and it is just a spinning hanger, it's not a "Bad bolt" - this thread is intended for those who are replacing bolts to find out about that which requires outright replacement. Not just something that needs a wrench taken to it for a couple of turns.

MrOwen · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 0

Route: Neon Sunset
Wall: Magic Bus

Left side anchor bolt and chain missing at the top. Right side chain and bolt are still good.

Jer · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 26

Choking Smokers at the Walrus in Sandstone Quarry is missing the first bolt

Zack Novak · · North Bend, WA · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 110

Just took another lap on Inti about a week ago.

Crux bolt on P2 seems to be getting even worse but can easily get backed up.
The entire route is soon to be due for an update as almost all of the bolts are now aging, some of them better than others.

Also, haven't been up there in a while but I just heard that the star drive on the texas tower connection traverse pitch is getting to be even sportier.

Thanks for the hard work

David Bruneau · · St. John · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 1,488

P3 bolt hanger on risky business is of the same variety as the homemade hangers on Excellent Adventure. I thought these all looked pretty good, they seem to be painted brown or only lightly rusted and made of very thick metal angle. You can back the Risky Business bolt up a few feet before it with a nut ( I placed a DMM offset alloy).

Bill Lawry · · New Mexico · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 1,636
SNevadaClimbersCoalition wrote:LAST UPDATED:5/10/2016 .... Pauligk's Pillar: First pitch anchor has bad bolts. Reported by Brian in SLC [but reported some time on or before 2/20/2014].
I am confused about the above.

  • Handren's Red Rocks A Climbers Guide (2007) mentions no bolts;

Looking through the comments to the route there are these:

  • 1/2009: "a tangle of slings at a very small ledge 100 feet off the ground"
  • 6/2009: "ratty nest of slings at 100 feet on the 1st pitch", and
  • 3/2014: "the anchor at 100 feet is no longer"

But then there is this:

  • 7/2016: "Someone added a bolted belay station at the top of pitch one and a rap station down low on the route"

Are the recently installed bolts the "bad bolts" reported by Brian in SLC?
Brian in SLC · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 15,387
Bill Lawry wrote: I am confused about the above. * Handren's Red Rocks A Climbers Guide (2007) mentions no bolts; Looking through the comments to the route there are these: * 1/2009: "a tangle of slings at a very small ledge 100 feet off the ground" * 6/2009: "ratty nest of slings at 100 feet on the 1st pitch", and * 3/2014: "the anchor at 100 feet is no longer" But then there is this: * 7/2016: "Someone added a bolted belay station at the top of pitch one and a rap station down low on the route" Are the recently installed bolts the "bad bolts" reported by Brian in SLC?
I dimly recall referring to the mass of manky slings as "bad bolts". I don't recall a bolted anchor.
Bill Lawry · · New Mexico · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 1,636

Thanks for the reply, Brian. Sounds like this one can be removed from the list.

polishbob · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 0

Inti Watana entire lower half should be rebolted. Most of bolts used were non SS, hence most of them are rusted. I don't know why eople use non-SS hardware? Bolts looked like they were replaced not too long ago, but in all honesty non of them are confidence inspiring at all, particularly on lower half, mostly due to water seeping down that part of the wall.
Another question is: would bolting a separate rap route for Crimson Chrysalis help with epics on that route? Even if you are first on that route, you are pretty much guaranteed to rap over other parties climbing from below.

mbv Br · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 21

Bon Ez (black corridor): both rap rings are nearly 50% worn through. The left anchor bolt hanger and bolt spin. Reported by mbv

mbv Br · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 21

Burros dont gamble (black corridor): the first chain link is approximately 75% worn through (1st link attached to hanger).this applies to both left and right anchors. I moved the quicklinks that were on the ends of the two chains directly to the hanger. The chains should be removed and or replaced and should no longer be used. Both bolts and hangers still appear to be in good condition. Reported by mbv.

Projicarus · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 0

Sweet Pain Wall:
The Gambler
2nd bolt has pulled out of the wall approximately 2cm so the bolt hanger spins freely. This bolt was pounded in, not one that can be tightened with a wrench.

Gallery:
Range of Motion
First bolt hanger is still very loose

J W · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2004 · Points: 1,546

Sunny and Steep, 6th bolt on Sunny and Steep is missing (the 5-piece on the route).

Edit: The missing bolt has been replaced with a Fixe Glue-in....

JSH · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2007 · Points: 1,028

At Magic Bus, the route that starts to the left of the upside-down V (Technicolor Sunrise?): on the left mussy hook, the gate is broken and has a very sharp tip.

Many thanks for all you do, folks.

Erik Kloeker · · Campton · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 40

The fixed draw on the third bolt on The Gift (if you include the shared bolt with Yaak crack) is aluminum on the bottom and sharp enough to cut a rope. It should be updated to steel to match the rest of the route. 2nd bolt on Save the Heart to Eat Later at Cannibal is a spinner, sorry didn't have my wrench to tighten. Ma and Pa Kettle still has no anchors besides the ones on top, I guess they got chopped awhile back. I don't see any reason it shouldn't have it's own set but to each their own.

Cheers!

J W · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2004 · Points: 1,546

Rappelled Fiddler on the Roof today and the bolts have reached a point where I wouldn't feel comfortable clipping them. At least three belays have one good bolt each, and the traverse pitch looks like someone put in new hardware, but it might be time to rally and refit this classic with new hardware.

I'm happy to donate asca hardware, drill, and other kit to the cause. Probably don't have time to hand drill, but would be willing to help fix lines.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Nevada
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