Tom Randall & Pete Whitaker Onsight Kill Artist

I thought 12- for the invert. It's a really cool move on a brilliant line, but not impossibly hard.

Next level shade being thrown on this one...

T Dz wrote:

This would be a poor excuse to overgrade a route. Mo Beck has one arm and didn't upgrade the 5.12 she climbed at all... she rose to the challenge and sent that shit.

Hey! Let's get the facts straight: Mo still has TWO arms!

Mark Paulson wrote: https://www.mountainproject.com/route/116820603/hype-artist

Next level shade being thrown on this one...

lol

Good on ya, Tom and Pete!!!  My congrats to you.  (And Pamela: you'll always be my hero goddess of wide!  Don't care what the others say!  Keep on truckin')

It was changed to hype artist over a week ago lol, whos Michal though with this next ascent?

Ahaha this is quality entertainment. Especially combined with the same discussion on supertopo ( supertopo.com/climbing/thre…;tn=120), where there is significant wringing of hands over exactly how many inches wide the "mental block" is. The "experts" seem to suggest if the holds are 6' apart then it's a "variation" (and thus downgrading is unjustified anti-PSP aggression), but if they're 3' apart they're fair game. Tom Randall stops in to mention that he measured the block at 48".

T Dz wrote:

This would be a poor excuse to overgrade a route. Mo Beck has one arm and didn't upgrade the 5.12 she climbed at all... she rose to the challenge and sent that shit.

I wouldn't say that is why. The FA did it one way and suggested the grade. Someone finds new beta means the grade goes down. It doesn't mean that the FA is wrong about how they did it at that moment. I don't really see an issue, if you miss the beta, you miss the beta. I can't comment on her beta being a 13 move though, this can apply to a 5.11 that is actually a 5.9. 

Anonymous wrote: I've decided to tumble that block so it's nice and safe.

Liar... you wont.. prove it

Pics or didnt happen

nathanael wrote: Ahaha this is quality entertainment. Especially combined with the same discussion on supertopo ( supertopo.com/climbing/thre…;tn=120), where there is significant wringing of hands over exactly how many inches wide the "mental block" is. The "experts" seem to suggest if the holds are 6' apart then it's a "variation" (and thus downgrading is unjustified anti-PSP aggression), but if they're 3' apart they're fair game. Tom Randall stops in to mention that he measured the block at 48".

is 48" too far?

I read some of the Supertopo thread. Very entertaining. Thank you. The "variation" theory is hilarious. 

Lol @ “variation”

They climbed up a way more obvious line using the same features she did instead of contriving an inversion.  It probably is 5.13 climbing it her way. You can make any sequence as hard as you want. And you can tell everyone it’s as dangerous and scary as you want. But better climbers will come along, do it in better style, and downgrade/downhype it. 

John Denver wrote: Oh look desert people arguing about more contrived desert things.

But also...

LOL @ VARIATION HAHAHAHA 

you still have grandmas feather bed?

C Archibolt wrote:

I read some of the Supertopo thread. Very entertaining. Thank you. The "variation" theory is hilarious. 

What do you think of this 5.12 variation of a 5.7 handcrack?

If you want to lead with your ass, why you just go ahead and lead with your ass!

Ted Pinson wrote:

What do you think of this 5.12 variation of a 5.7 handcrack?

https://rockandice.com/videos/weekend-whippers/weekend-whipper-roadside-attraction-trad-fall/

That's an oldie.  I've always wondered if that guy either realized that trad wasn't for him or learned how to climb cracks.

Ted Pinson wrote:

What do you think of this 5.12 variation of a 5.7 handcrack?

https://rockandice.com/videos/weekend-whippers/weekend-whipper-roadside-attraction-trad-fall/

Wow talk about cringe....

I am still excitedly waiting for an articulate, rational, and believable* explanation for the justification of any of the grades for any of these 5.13 and 5.14 OW's put up by any of these supposedly 5.13 and 5.14 OW climbers.

Just a simple statement like 'I (or anyone) thought the climbing on X was comparable to Y because it took me  _______ effort/tries in to do X and the same overall effort/tries to do Y', with Y being any non-controversial and consensus graded climb of any style which has the same grade as X.

*(in the sense that the explanation justifies the grade)

JNE wrote: I am still excitedly waiting for an articulate, rational, and believable* explanation for the justification of any of the grades for any of these 5.13 and 5.14 OW's put up by any of these supposedly 5.13 and 5.14 OW climbers.

Just a simple statement like 'I (or anyone) thought the climbing on X was comparable to Y because it took me  _______ effort/tries in to do X and the same overall effort/tries to do Y', with Y being any non-controversial and consensus graded climb of any style which has the same grade as X.

*(in the sense that the explanation justifies the grade)

Tom and Pete both climbed Cobra Crack which has at least a dozen ascents and has sat pretty firm at 14-. They said they felt Century was harder. 

nathanael wrote:

Tom and Pete both climbed Cobra Crack which has at least a dozen ascents and has sat pretty firm at 14-. They said they felt Century was harder. 

Except they took days or weeks and much more than two or three tries to get it done (as opposed to 2nd go pinkpoint/3rd go redpoint), they trained an additional year beyond their CC training, and both had sent 13+/14- finger cracks previously. Thus Cobra took them significantly more effort and the resultant statement should have been something to the effect of 'yep, I guess CC is more like 13+ max'.

Commenting way above my pay grade, but wasn’t CC the one that had the years of cellar training attached? In that case it seems like an accurate home replica helped a lot, but I didn’t get the impression they put less time in, than they did on cobra. 

(Please note: again I have no clue about anything above 5.10, just a fan of people climbing hard shit)