The Climbing Bubble - Will it burst?

I sure hope the numbers of people getting in to climbing decreases. I'm starting to sound like a grumpy old man but I like to be climbing around the fewest amount of people possible. 

All this population growth stuff is a little bogus, the US population would actually be shrinking if not for immigration, and I usually don’t see many immigrants at the crag or gym (I know that’s a generalization, but it’s a white man’s sport). The populations of Europe and Japan are shrinking. So until we see a ton of climbers who don’t look anything like who I see in the Valley, EPC, or Squamish, can’t blame population growth. 

I think we’re seeing a rise in all sorts of “adventure sports” and outdoor recreation in general. Ski areas, surf breaks, trails, and especially backcountry skiing are way more crowded than 10 years ago. However, There’s no telling what will happen. I’m a snowboarder, and when I started riding 20 years ago everyone was saying skiing would be practically dead in 5 years, as all the young folks were boarding. Now, except for splitboarding, snowboarding is kind of on the way out. 

It could burst if you don't manage your body's pH levels.   

Gym climbing is obviously exploding in popularity. I think the effects on outdoor climbing crowds will be self-regulated in a decreasing order of how technical the climbing is. Toprope areas will be the heaviest hit, followed by sport, mixed, full on trad, then multipitch, multi-day multipitch, and alpine climbing. Let the gumby's in the gym continue to fear placing cams. Fine by me. Maybe I will even feign stories about trad gear that has failed on me. Is that unethical? Lol.

So no, I don't see it bursting anytime too soon. Then again, there is an entire generation of kids being raised that have known nothing but screens in their faces. The effects of this will be more clear in the next 5-10 years. This could have an impact on all outdoor recreation.

Don Juan Matus wrote: I am thinking the ratio is similar to flying. Of your 330 million Americans or so less than 650,000 active pilots.

I tend to disagree a bit. You can get into climbing for under $200, harness, shoes, gym membership.  $200 will barely buy you an hour of dual instruction these days, let alone getting your single engine VFR rating.

Jimmy Downhillinthesnow wrote: All this population growth stuff is a little bogus, the US population would actually be shrinking if not for immigration, and I usually don’t see many immigrants at the crag or gym (I know that’s a generalization, but it’s a white man’s sport). The populations of Europe and Japan are shrinking. So until we see a ton of climbers who don’t look anything like who I see in the Valley, EPC, or Squamish, can’t blame population growth. 

How often are you in Squamish??? 

I live in Vancouver.  Over a third of the population here is of Asian descent, and that is reflected in the local climbing gyms, and, to a lesser extent, the local crags in Squamish.

I go down to L.A., another major population centre with a significant population of people of Asian descent, every year, and down there I also see a lot of Asians in the climbing gyms and out at the local crags (Malibu Creek, Stoney Point, Holcomb Valley Pinnacles, New Jack City, etc.)

Khoi wrote:

How often are you in Squamish??? 

I live in Vancouver.  Over a third of the population here is of Asian descent, and that is reflected in the local climbing gyms, and, to a lesser extent, the local crags in Squamish.

I go down to L.A., another major population centre with a significant population of people of Asian descent,  every year, and down there I also see a lot of Asians in the climbing gyms and out at the local crags (Malibu Creek, Stoney Point, Holcomb Valley Pinnacles, New Jack City, etc.

I seem to remember one flexing Asian who seemed to do a lot of climbing out in squamish. And on that note, while y'all are working up some anxiety about the fate of climbing and growing pains, I'll be out actually climbing. 

The number of new climbers will continue to increase as long as there are gyms and safely bolted sport climbs for them to climb. When I started climbing 35+ years ago it was very different. If you wanted the fun and thrill of climbing you also had to assume the risk. Sure, you could top-rope. But, you knew that if you ever wanted to move beyond having your experienced friend set up TR's for you, you would have to venture into a world where you could get hurt.  New climbers entering the sport today do not have to take on that risk. Don't get me wrong...not a judgement, just an observation.

Nivel Egres wrote: Remember in the early 90s rollerblading was the thing? Now think when was the last time you saw someone on the rollerblades... 

Fehim Hasecic wrote:

I loved rollerblading.

Even went to camp Rollerblade in Santa Rosa.

You got to skate with the pros in the x games. It was pretty cool but the first day I dropped in on a 10 ft vert ramp I busted by tailbone...

The climbing bubble might burst if some of these trustee climbers had to work.  In the last week I ran into 2 people at the crag without jobs and living at home.  Anyone else seen this phenomenon?

Now that Free Solo has people interested and gyms provide convenience there are going to be a few who stick with climbing. 

not with REI telling you that patagonia is well within reach for everyone:

​https://www.rei.com/blog/climb/want-to-climb-in-patagonia-but-feel-intimidated​​​

Tee Kay wrote: not with REI telling you that patagonia is well within reach for everyone:

https://www.rei.com/blog/climb/want-to-climb-in-patagonia-but-feel-intimidated

I saw this too and thought the same thing

My guess is that it will increase in popularity, but not as much as people think. A lot of people are terrified of climbing outdoors. Gyms will continue to get more crowded, but anything beyond local sport crags I'm not sure

Mike Starr wrote: My guess is that it will increase in popularity, but not as much as people think. A lot of people are terrified of climbing outdoors. Gyms will continue to get more crowded, but anything beyond local sport crags I'm not sure

I saw this firsthand, and it left me befuddled.  I met a guy in a gym who climbed pretty hard but said he had never been climbing outside.  I took him to a friendly roadside crag and had him get on some moderate topropes.  At the end of the day, he basically told me he just wants to be an indoor climber.

I guess I understand the appeal of climbing in climate-controlled, color-coded, well-lit, padded, and bug-free environment.  But for me, plastic pulling will always just be training for the real thing, where I can find nature, adventure, excitement, aesthetic beauty, fresh air, sunshine, and did I mention nature?

Some cats are indoor cats, some are outdoor cats, and I guess the same goes for climbers.

unfortunately we are fcked. too many people. too many gyms and guides whos very survival depends on pumping new people into climbing. 

Rock Climbing Isn't As Scary As It Looks & Could Be Your Next Hobby

Dan Austin wrote: https://www.refinery29.com/amp/en-us/rock-climbing-for-beginners

Rock Climbing Isn't As Scary As It Looks & Could Be Your Next Hobby

Didn't make it past the header picture. These damn bloggers need to chill.

Sam Skovgaard wrote:

I saw this firsthand, and it left me befuddled.  I met a guy in a gym who climbed pretty hard but said he had never been climbing outside.  I took him to a friendly roadside crag and had him get on some moderate topropes.  At the end of the day, he basically told me he just wants to be an indoor climber.

I guess I understand the appeal of climbing in climate-controlled, color-coded, well-lit, padded, and bug-free environment.  But for me, plastic pulling will always just be training for the real thing, where I can find nature, adventure, excitement, aesthetic beauty, fresh air, sunshine, and did I mention nature?

Some cats are indoor cats, some are outdoor cats, and I guess the same goes for climbers.

100% agree with everything said here.

I think if you are looking for a good trad climbing partner, it may be easier to convert a hiker to climb backcountry than it is to take a gym climber and make them love the outdoors.

A great example is my nephew, who is a hella strong climber, has little interest in going to Yosemite. He just isn't that into that scene. Rifle or CCC would be more his style, where there is a short approach, big areas for all his friends, and he can go back home at night. No commitment, no suffering and no adventure.

I am sooooo glad I got the opportunity to climb with the generation that craved adventure, carried their homes on their backs and looked at getting benighted on a route as part of the game.

That part of my life is over (bad knees, ankles and back) but I think it was instrumental in shaping the rest of my life. That, and the Army.