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Best trad around Albuquerque?

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Original Post
NatejWeber · · Vancouver, WA · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 20

Hi All,

Looking to visit Albuquerque end of April or early May to visit a friend, and looking for the best trad in the area. don't care about driving distance. Also what is the go-to guidebook? thanks everyone!
JWatt · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 25

Capulin Canyon
The Sandias.

Prob mountain proj is your best bet.
Cron · · Maine / NH · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 60

Here is the Sandia Rock guide on Amazon. You can also pick it up at the REI in ABQ or the climbing gym. 
Bill Lawry · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 1,815

Lot of choss in the Sandias. Stick to high quality lines?

April can have variable weather.

If above normal, sunny and calm, consider more than one day at the El Rito Trad Area - vehicle dependent.  MP including the therein-linked pdf of Gary Clark’s are great resources.  Shade-y mornings. Dispersed camping about a hundred yards from the ~3 pitch cliff.

If weather is below normal or inclement, there are good trad routes down south near Las Cruces in the Organ Mountains as well as some high adventure on Sugarloaf there.

Also near Las Cruces is some great lower-elevation trad on Checkerboard Wall in the Dona Ana’s, morning sun and some protection from winds out of the west.

As far as I know, MP is also a good resource for the above near Las Cruces. But maybe someone will post other suggestions.
Mick S · · Utah · Joined Sep 2007 · Points: 61

I may be biased, but recommending El Rito trad, or driving to Cruces, over climbing in the Sandias is questionable advice. Particularly if the OP is staying in ABQ. At the very least check out some of fine climbing in Lower La Cueva canyon before leaving town.
Bill Lawry · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 1,815
Mick S wrote: I may be biased, but recommending El Rito trad, or driving to Cruces, over climbing in the Sandias is questionable advice. Particularly if the OP is staying in ABQ. At the very least check out some of fine climbing in Lower La Cueva canyon before leaving town.

You are right, Mick. Did not intend that to be a flat recommendation over the Sandias for someone already in the area.

And the Gemstone area in LLC can be a bit too shade-y in the early spring once in a while.

Options.
Bill Lawry · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 1,815

To be clear, for someone who has 4+ weeks in the area, with wheels, for the time of year, with the weather conditions that can sometimes occur, there are places I would on occasion recommend over the Sandias.

And, yes, you are biased, Mick. :)
Ryan Callahan · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 5
  • Doesn't Stone Age have a permanent crack set up? As in it's literally built into the wall?
Ty Harlacker · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 231

Some of my favorite easier climbs are:
Excitable Boys
Bush Shark Spire

The Sandia's offer lots to choose from depending on what you're looking for. It's kinda unique, very featured, but can be loose in spots.
Kerr Adams · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 155
Mick S wrote: I may be biased, but recommending El Rito trad, or driving to Cruces, over climbing in the Sandias is questionable advice. Particularly if the OP is staying in ABQ. At the very least check out some of fine climbing in Lower La Cueva canyon before leaving town.

Agreed!
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Arizona & New Mexico
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